As a lighthouse keeper, it’s my favorite time of day. Up with the sun, I relish the quiet mornings before visitors arrive. Each day is different, entirely at the whim of the weather. This year was a perfect example, as my journal proves.
It wouldn’t be a Crisp Point morning without my perch on the beach, tower looming overhead, waves pulsing and wind stirring the damp air. With coffee thermos mug at hand and charred camp-stove toast slathered in peanut butter, I’m ready to put pen to paper.
Just being out here is an unexpected treat. With rain beating our tent all night and a dismal forecast this didn’t seem possible. But the downpour ceased with our sleep and the south wind brought warm breezes. I’m wearing three layers of clothes on this September morning feeling grateful.
Light wisps of clouds skitter by below the more stationery cloud cover. Cracks in that shield reveal patches of blue sky, more than I thought I’d see all day. Lake Superior makes her own weather. I drink in the scene and write. The old fashioned way.
Waves crash against the shore just as they have done all night long. The white pulses against the sand regenerate, again and again, changing the shoreline moment by moment. The sandy beach I walked yesterday has been reclaimed by the water, reaching high on shore. Lake Superior has claimed all but 3 of the 15 acres that surrounded the lighthouse 115 years ago. And still it seeks to alter the landscape, to sculpt its border. I turn my footsteps in the opposite direction for this morning’s outing.
On my return, I climb the tower, seeking shelter from the wind. I know a tall stool stands inside the windows at the top, nestled against the modern LED lamp. The air is damp, the view obscured by fog. Unlatching the doors to the catwalk, I press them open. Fresh breezes and the drumming of the waves sneak inside, gradually clearing the view and my thoughts.
“Is there any sunlight?”
“I doubt it, the skies were cloudy at 5:15am. Wait! There’s a break in the clouds and a ribbon of light. We might get a sunrise after all!”
That’s all it takes to jettison us from our tent into the predawn hour. Already orange hues stripe the horizon and the clouds’ underbellies blush in pink. I rush for my camera – teeth unbrushed, haystack hair, my eyes thick with morning gunk. There is not a moment to lose. Rich, of course, is out well ahead of me, already poised behind his tripod.
Crisp Point is picturesque in all conditions, but sunrise and sunset are when it truly shines. So far we have been denied these sublime moments by persistent clouds and fully anticipated being skunked this year. But maybe not!
Single minded and on a mission, Rich doggedly pursues angles, hones his focus, searches – and finds – exquisite vantage points. In contrast, I point and shoot. Change a setting here, try an artsy shot there. But really, I’m out there for the display. To see it with my eyes, not a lens.
The vivid colors are certainly a draw, and evade my amateur shots. It’s the flip side of the show I find more captivating. It’s not the sun that’s the star, it’s the light it paints.
The dim shadow of the tower comes to life as a warm glow travels up its majestic height. Bathed in morning gold, it emits a warmth unmatched by its small beacon. The ephemeral effect is all the more alluring for the shortness of its life. I drink in the moment.
It is a final gift. A fond farewell on our last Crisp Point morning. Until next year.