Intro to Texas Cycling

Ready to start the tour

Finally, Day 1 of our Spring North Cycling Tour! It all started well enough. We enjoyed a bountiful B&B worthy breakfast prepared by Phillis and Bill, easily loaded up our bikes, and headed on our way with a royal send off. The weather was cloudy and mid-60s, which was actually quite good biking weather. We couldn't help but be in good spirits. There's nothing like beginning a trip.

The first snafu came just 9.5 miles into the ride when my front tire went totally flat. The culprit turned out to be a decent sized shard of glass. Although inconvenient, it was better to know we'd found the cause, and it wasn't an equipment malfunction. And I felt very fortunate to have my own personal mechanic on the trip with me.

Rich fixing my flat

Shortly afterwards we reached Granbury and turned to the southwest which was our main direction for the day. By that time the wind had come up and was now gusting fiercely, right in our faces. It was a battle just to make headway, and to add to the difficulty, the terrain rolled continually. Up and down we went, pedaling just as hard on the downhills as we did going up. The miles crawled by, but as a compensating factor the clouds cleared providing us with a nice sunny afternoon. That would have been lovely, had the temperature not risen into the 80s. For two Minnesotans who had not seen much over 50 yet this spring, it felt mighty hot out there.

A scenic rest spot

Now despite these challenges, I'm happy to report that my limited cycling and abundant running stood me in good stead and I felt up to the task. Rich, on the other hand, was struggling. The ski season, which is his passion, just didn't pan out this year and his training suffered. Today he was paying the price. We spent a lot of time sitting under shade trees, or lying in the grass so he could recover. I can't say I minded that too much – the sensation was quite pleasant. What was worse was continually losing him in my rear view mirror.

Reaching Dublin at last

We both set our sights on reaching Stephenville, and very nearly stopped there for the day. In hindsight we really should have. Pressing on to Dublin wasn't the wisest choice, but neither of us is very good at giving in. And so Rich soldiered on. Slowly completing the 55 miles for the day. It turned out to be our longest day in the saddle for any trip yet.

With strong headwinds predicted to continue for the rest of the week, we have decided to exercise the flexibility clause in our plans. The goal to reach the Hill Country by Thursday is absolutely arbitrary. So we've already revised that to Friday and altered our mileages to help ease Rich into this a little more slowly. And as a concession to the wind. After this intro, we knew this chapter needed a bit of a rewrite.

 

Signs of Spring

What a difference a day makes. Leaving the Twin Cities brown and drab, hustling out to the car in 40ish degree temperatures, it was definitely Minnesota's version of early spring. It will be weeks before the trees have leaves and flowers open there, and much longer at home in Duluth. Heading south we covered not only miles but time, as the season advanced rapidly as we drove. The car's outdoor thermometer climbed to just above 80, and our senses were assaulted by heat as we stepped out of the car to refuel. Oh, it felt good.

Flowers in the yard

Our destination was my cousin's home in St. Louis where we spent a delightful day and a half visiting with family. Lawns were green, daffodils blooming, magnolias bursting out with their brilliant colors and fruit trees were covered in blossoms. Their yard alone gave testimony to the season that was rapidly unfolding before us.

It was a delight to go for long walks without jacket and jeans, to feel the warm breezes and the sun on my skin. We found Mama Canada Goose tending her nest while Dad lazily ignored us floating on the pond. Better yet, Mama decide it was time to rotate her position, giving us a rare view of her brood of eggs.

Mama Canada Goose
Turtles sunning themselves

I wasn't the only one enjoying the sun. In Buder Park, the turtles packed any surface that protruded from the water to catch some rays. And we even glimpsed some elk and bison hanging out in the trees. Rich was a happy camper after spotting and photographing a Red Headed Woodpecker – a new bird for him. That's a “Lifer” in bird watching lingo, I learned. I at least managed to get a glimpse of “Woody.”

It's hard to fathom that this is the termination point of our Spring North cycling tour. We have yet to reach the heart of Texas where we will begin. By the time we return to St. Louis with at least 1,500 cycling miles behind us, these first signs of spring will have progressed to the height of the season. It looks like our plans to follow the spring north are right on track.

 

Spring Training

It’s barely over a week away now.  The Spring North Cycling Tour looms, and yet I’m still struggling to get time on my bike.  So far I’ve logged a grand total of 157 miles.  Normally, I do that week in, week out.  And on tour that represents just 3 days of cycling.

We’ve never toured this early in the season before.  Usually by the time we set out on a trip, we have had months of training behind us and it feels like a natural extension of our summer’s activity.  And we are already well acclimated to the weather.

First bike ride of 2015Not so this time.  With temperatures bouncing between the 20’s and 40’s here in the Northland, I have yet to complete a ride without frozen toes.  So when I look at the forecast for Johnson City TX, which we expect to reach within a few days of starting our trip, I find it hard to conceive of readings that climb into the upper 70’s and 80’s.  I will be going on faith when I pack my short sleeve jerseys and leave behind my heavy layers.  Intuitively I know I shouldn’t be needing them, but it sure is hard to let go at this stage.

Stony PointSpring is a relative term.  On the North Shore just having the ice recede is a victory, even if the snow still clings in the shadows and the wind off the lake rarely registers above the freezing mark.  The thought of wildflowers blooming is still a foreign concept. But very appealing.

We have made a few adjustments to our gear for this season.  To date, we’ve mostly traveled in late summer or fall with the benefit of remarkably dry weather.  With the very real likelihood of spring showers, we’ve made a concession and added fenders to our bikes.  I hated to mar the stark features of my bike with such mundane accessories, but ultimately decided that comfort ruled over style.  Drier feet are worth it.  We’ve also swapped out our down sleeping bags for ultra-light thinner models.  Now I’m really counting on the warmer climes to moderate the night time temps.

There’s no doubt the start of this trip is going to be a shock to the system.  The sudden accumulation of miles.  A sharp spike in temperature.  And a vast blossoming of color in our world.  Despite our lack of training for all this, I’m sure I can take it.  Bring on the Spring North Tour!

Cycling…in the Pink

Every long distance cycling trip we take starts with a laundry list of detailed preparations.  Route selection alone can take months.  After all, half the fun is pondering the options and researching a variety of potential destinations.  Once that is settled, a map is produced and we move on to checking out sightseeing, lodging options and local specialties.  The final push includes gathering our gear, making sure everything is in tip top shape (including ourselves) and checking off each item on our packing list.

But we’re still not ready to go.  The last essential piece is Marketing.  What would a tour be without a distinctive name?  a logo?  and of course, matching jerseys?  There’s no mistaking our mission when we’re out on the road, and that is no accident.  Our shirts say it all.

This shameless bit of of self-promotion actually contributes a lot to the trip.  Somehow our jerseys make us approachable.  Just sporting a blatant advertisement for our journey invites questions, from the random query at a rest stop to swapping fascinating stories over breakfast in a café.  We’ve even had folks ask how they can sign up for the tour!

This year the name came fairly quickly.  Starting in the south we’re following the spread of the warm weather, hence Spring North.  The logo was an obvious choice.  Seeing the bluebonnets of Texas in bloom will be a highlight of this trip, so a blue flower won hands down.  And the jerseys, well, let’s just say we picked an eye-catching color.

Now one might naturally assume we’d have blue jerseys to go with the theme.  But this color maven complained that we’d done blue too many times already.  I need some variety in my cycling apparel.  Little did I know that when Rich mockingly said “how about pink?” that he was serious enough to carry it through.

I should have known better. Back whenRich and Erik Super Nerds in Pink our son was on a Lego League team, they chose the name “Super Nerds in Pink.”  Being a supportive coach who was anxious to motivate his team, Rich promised the boys that he’d let them spray paint his hair pink if they made it to the state tournament.  Well, the boys delivered and Rich made good on his pledge.  A precedent was set.

Today a package came – our custom jerseys had arrived.  Tearing into the bag, we pulled out our prizes.  Yes, they’re pink all right.  We’d better like them, we ordered two each.  Wear one, wash one – that means we can always be in uniform.  There will be no missing us this year.  We’ll be the folks cycling in the pink.Spring North jerseys

Cyclists eager to Spring North

There’s a feeling of spring in the air today.  Funny how temperatures just above freezing along with some welcome sunshine can feel so balmy here in the Northland.  It’s enough to start one’s brain dwelling on flowers, wearing shorts and of course…  cycling!  Knowing this blip of warmth is just a tease here in Duluth, we’ve taken measures to find true spring instead.

Announcing the Spring North cycling tour for 2015!  The idea is to head straight south, searching out warmth and blooms in the heart of Texas.  From there, we will work our way back north, as spring warms the adjoining states throughout the month of April.

Once again, we are usingSpring North Tour map Amtrak and the $10 charge for taking our bikes on board to give us a one-way trip.  Leaving our car in St. Louis, we’ll board the train and spend the night in a sleeper car, arriving in Dallas the following morning.  After spending Easter weekend with my brother and his wife, we plan to set off from Granbury, Texas and head south to the Texas hill country.  Our hopes are to catch the Texas Bluebonnets in bloom.  Rich has been talking about this for a couple years now, so fingers crossed we get the timing right.

From there we swing back north, traveling through the Ozark Mountains in Oklahoma, Arkansas and Missouri.  We will complete our journey along the Katy Trail, which follows the Missouri or “Big Muddy” River right back into St. Louis again.  In all, about 1,500 miles.

The timing of this trip presents a bit of a challenge for us northerners.  No opportunity to train!  If we’re lucky, we may get a day or two on our bikes if the temperature spikes in the next few weeks.  Otherwise, we will be training as we go.  It’s not our fitness level that we’re concerned about – cross-country skiing has kept us in shape through the winter.  But without any time in the saddle beforehand, that first week could be a bit sore on the behinds until we get used to cycling again.  But we have a remedy for that too.

This bikSpring North Tour designe tour does not have a solid end date.  Although we can expect to complete the mileage by early May, we have no firm commitments requiring a timely return home.  So we have the option of starting off with lower mileage, taking things more slowly or doing unplanned detours along the way.  We’ve never been very good at veering from the original plan before, but there’s a first time for everything.

Our jerseys are ordered, the train tickets purchased and bikes tuned up for the journey.  It’s still all a bit hard to conceive while there’s still ample snow on the ground.  But we’re banking on warm weather in the south, and looking forward to Springing North.

Glaciers Cycling Tour Stats

I can't help it, I'm a numbers person. Being a math major and spending my career in IT, my natural inclination to analyze things is enhanced by years of training. So in looking back on our Glaciers to the Sea cycling tour, I just have to break it down by the numbers.

First the basics:

  • 1,408 miles cycled
  • 30 total days
  • 27 days cycling

Our cycling tours are focused on enjoying the ride, not racking up the miles each day. We planned to do roughly 50-55 miles a day, and we came pretty close. This allows us to take a mid-morning break for either our first or second breakfast, see sights along the way and finish cycling around 3:30 in the afternoon. We enjoy having some downtime at the end of the day.

  • 52 miles/day for days cycling
  • 47 miles/day including rest days

We aren't very good at taking rest days. The only days we stayed off our bikes on this trip were those spent visiting family and friends, which we intended to serve that dual purpose. Our first rest days were 18 days into the trip when we visited Rich's brother Stewart and his wife Kathy in Eugene for 2 days. Our third was day 28 which we spent with my friend, Anne, in Olympia.

Weather-wise this trip was fantastic. We had day after day of amazingly beautiful weather. Temperatures were nippy in the mornings, but they almost always rose to warm and sometimes downright hot during the day. I loved it!

  • 18 clear sunny days
  • 5 partly cloudy days
  • 4 overcast days
  • 3 rainy days

Wind is a huge factor in cycling. A headwind can take miles off our speed. We knew that we were cycling against the prevailing winds, going west and then north up the coast. But we beat all the odds. It was a cyclist's dream.

  • 28 days with tailwinds or no wind
  • 2 days with headwinds (and we frequently hid from it while climbing the hilly Columbia River Gorge)

One of our goals was to spend less than 50% of our nights in motels. Thanks to the boost from bunking in with family and friends, we exceeded this target for our 30 nights. I'd still like to up the amount of camping we do, but I won't complain about having a few creature comforts.

  • 4 nights camping
  • 5 nights with family and friends
  • 8 nights in Warm Showers homes
  • 13 nights in motels

Our Specialized Touring bikes are trusty steeds indeed. We have had a great track record for avoiding serious breakdowns on all of our trips, and this one was no exception. The only equipment failure that would have been a show stopper happened within range of one of the few large towns we visited.

  • 5 flat tires/new inner tubes (Rich) – roadside repairs, we carry 8
  • 2 tire replacements (Rich) – roadside repairs, we carry 1 and bought another right away
  • 1 wheel/rim tear at the spoke (Rich) – slow ride and cab back to Seattle, bike shop visit required
  • 2 bolts lost from rear pannier rack (Molly) – replaced when discovered, bought extra bolts
  • 1 rear view mirror scratched (Molly) – replaced at a bike shop when convenient

While I don't have hard facts on this one, there is no doubt that lattes outnumbered ice creams on this trip. Little drive-through coffee huts abounded in even the smallest of towns, and good coffee shops were also in abundance. My caffeine needs rarely went unattended. Yet humble ice cream shops were at a premium. In fact, we didn't find a single truly Mom and Pop ice cream stand. We managed to fill in with ice cream offerings in other establishments, but there was truly a deficiency in dairy delights.

Yes, there is only one conclusion. It was a most successful and enjoyable trip. No matter how I slice and dice it, the numerical score for this cycling tour is 100%+.

 

 

The Last Few Miles

At the Finish: 30 days, 1,408 miles

All good things must come to an end. Including our Glaciers to the Sea cycling tour. Interestingly enough, there seems to be a pattern to the final day of our long cycling trips. Last year, we completed the Grand Gaspé Tour with a 9 mile day. This year we topped that with cycling 11 miles to reach the finish line. And we added a bit of a twist to our finale.

After a hilly ride yesterday and a particularly steep incline to reach our host home, we were relieved to coast downhill a short three miles to the waterfront in Bremerton. In that distance, we passed the 1,400 mile mark for our trip! At the water's edge we took time to enjoy the Harborside Fountain Park. It is a unique tribute to the US submarine forces, with fountains that look like the fantail of a submarine. We thought they were cool enough with the water cascading down them, but soon found that they spouted out of the tops as well.

Our real purpose, however, was to take the ferry over to Seattle. Being cyclists afforded us the privilege of boarding first. We quickly headed out to the bow of the boat where we could take in the sights. The initial passageways were narrow and scenic, and it was comfortable outside watching the world slide by. Once we reached the larger bay it became windier and chillier, and we retreated behind windows where it was more comfortable.

Docking in Seattle, we were met by our friends Stephanie and Scott. They arrived on bicycle, and we cycled the final 8 miles of our trip together. It was a pleasure to have someone else to lead the way, and most of it was on bike trails. With no hills.

Arriving at their house meant the end of the trip. It should have felt like a momentous moment. But somehow it was all lost on me. I didn't feel a sense of accomplishment, relief or celebration as I dismounted my bike. It felt like any other time I got off my bike and removed my panniers for the day. We were already deep in conversation with Stephanie and Scott and eager to see their new house. After all, they had been our Warm Showers guests last summer as they cycled their way across the country. So it felt a natural and fitting finish to our ride.

We left the Glaciers a month ago, and made it to the Sea. All our miles are behind us. At least for now.

 

Circling the Sound

I'd never realized before just how extensive and meandering Puget Sound is. It's long and sinewy fingers stretch well inland, creating endless miles of coastline. We enjoyed exploring quite a few of them.

Our first introduction was in Olympia. We had the luxury of a rest day there spent with my good friend, Anne, who shared her favorite outdoor haunts with us. Blessed with sunny calm weather, we happily traded our bikes for walking and enjoying nature.

Exploring the restored delta on the boardwalk at the Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge.

Lunch and a colorful eyeful at the Olympia Farmers' Market

Walking the beach at Priest Point Park

Beautiful wooded trails in Priest Point Park

We were advised that the best bicycle route into Seattle was not the direct one. It took a full day of cycling to circle around to Bremerton, on the western side of the Sound. But it was far more pleasant and less stressful then trying to navigate through a busy metropolitan area. Every time we had a scenic view of water, it turned out to be another bit of the Sound. The sight varied greatly depending on the status of the tide and the nature of the shoreline. It could never be tiresome.

Stopping for a mid-day break on the fishing pier in Allyn

Our Warm Showers hosts in Bremerton had a beautiful home with a wonderful view of Kitsap Lake. Although not part of the Sound, its waters eventually drain there. The unseasonably warm weather provided a fine opportunity to hang out on the deck to enjoy the view, including the Cascade Mountains in the distance.

Lake Kitsap and the Cascade Mountains

A beautiful sunset over the lake

Tomorrow we will complete our circuit of Puget Sound, as well as our trip. Since we didn't do a circle route this time, let's just say we are about to come full cycle.

 

Counting Down

No matter how long the trip, when we get near the end I am reluctant to let go. We have our daily cycling down to a well tuned routine, and it feels good. My body is strong and I love pressing through each day's miles. The simplicity of life on the road appeals to me. And I admit that I enjoy being able to eat the large quantities of food to takes to fuel all that cycling.

Even after coming through a full day of rain, I want to keep going. The cold, wet clammy clothes are already a distant memory, as is the damp smell as we aired out the ziplock bags holding all our belongings in the motel room.

Setting off this morning amidst the remaining puddles, the fog was just lifting and we had no idea that we'd spend the entire day under clear blue skies and sunshine. I'm going to miss those miracles of nature that mean so much in the life of a touring cyclist.

It's time to start savoring the lasts. This is the last night we stay in a motel. Our last Warm Showers hosts. The last of my peanutbutter, as its tube grows thin. The last of the countryside before heading into the greater Seattle area. The last time we wash our clothes in the sink. Okay, so maybe “savor” doesn't apply to them all.

For weeks, I've marveled at all the little drive-up espresso booths we see everywhere, even in the smallest of towns. I've been itching to ride through one on my bike. With time dwindling, I took the opportunity today. “A medium skim latte, please.” An excellent morning caffeine fix.

I said goodbye to the coast today. How I've enjoyed it's views, it's waves, it's rocky coastline and beaches. I love cycling along water. It must come from growing up on Lake Superior. Turning inland was a clear sign of reaching the end.

Progress to date: 26 days, 1,293 miles

We have almost 1,300 miles behind us, and just two full days of cycling left to go. It's no coincidence that this evening's dinner conversation focused on ideas and options for our next big cycling trip. It's easier to let go knowing there are more destinations in store for us. Just barely. It's better than focusing on the countdown.