Grand Gaspé Tour – Cast of Characters

With the start of our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour just one day away, it seems appropriate to introduce the intrepid cyclists who are taking the plunge on this great adventure. It’s worth noting at the outset that there are two classes cyclists here. Two of us are doing the whole kahuna. We’re the crazy ones anticipating traveling and carrying all our worldly goods for two months and over 2,000 miles on our bicycles. We are the ones venturing into the Canadian Maritimes with only a general route in mind and several detours already under consideration. The other two are more sane. They are merely tackling the first 500 miles with us along the coast of Maine, with hotel reservations already in place, guaranteeing a shower and dry bed at the end of each day. Either way, it’s going to be a Grand Tour.

RichRich – Full Route

This was all his idea. My husband is the veteran of five past cycling tours, all but one self-planned. He loves playing travel agent, researching the details and making the reservations. In fact, he has dreamed up far more future trips than we could ever execute. Rich is a steady cyclist who detests hills (especially with loaded panniers) and loves the thrill of plummeting downhill. He embraces sightseeing stops on his cycling tours, sometimes to the consternation of his fellow cyclists. A Northern Pike shaped car and vivid purple cow are mere examples. He’s also an avid photographer, so photo opps are valid reasons to tarry along the way.

Most looking forward to: Seeing the next “purple cow”

Biggest worry: How my body will hold up over 2,000 miles of cycling

MollyMolly – Full Route

That’s me. I was cajoled into trying cycling by Rich a mere 19 months ago. I wasn’t sure i wanted to trade marathon running for cycling. But following my first trip I was hooked. I’ve now completed two long distance bike tours and despite the audacity of this itinerary I was quick to agree to the plan. My cycling style tends to be more intense. I’m not one to dawdle. I like to push the pace, put the miles behind me and have to be convinced to stop and smell the flowers. Rich and I probably balance each other out pretty well – he makes sure we have fun along the way and I make sure we get to our destination.

Most looking forward to: The coastline, with its cliffs, waves and lighthouses

Biggest worry: Cycling in heavy rain

CarlCarl – Maine Only

Carl is our middle child. He has always prided himself on making his own decisions. While the rest of the family played the accordion (that’s another story), he adamantly stuck to guitar and banjo. In a family of marathon runners, Carl pursued serious cycling. Interesting that now two of us have come around. Carl has done two long distance cycling trips, one being a father-son tour with Rich. So he knows what he’s getting into on this trip. Carl has the only road bike among three touring style bikes in the group – still the individual. He’s also the fastest among us. And to be fair, the has the youngest legs by 30 years. We’ll see if he forges ahead or stays with the pack.

Most looking forward to: Acadia National Park

Biggest worry: I am bit unsure about what it will be like biking in a group of four people when everyone probably is used to going at different paces.

MyraMyra – Maine Only

Myra’s still wondering how she ended up on this trip. She’s been a friend of mine since Jr High, and in an era when few sports were available to girls in school Myra played them all. So it’s no surprise that she’s been cycling for years, and when I took it up we discovered we were well matched. To date we’ve logged two century rides together. It was only in casual conversation about the trip that I threw out the idea that she join us, and with little hesitation she committed. This is Myra’s maiden long distance bike tour. But I’m not concerned. Myra is able to keep up both a solid pace and a steady conversation for miles and miles. And she always seems to have the energy to go farther – as long as she’s well fed.

Most looking forward to: Just getting out and riding through beautiful country and enjoying it from a bicycle.

Biggest worry: How many bagels should I bring and how will I keep them fresh and how much will they weigh?

Tomorrow this motley crew will gather in Exeter, New Hampshire to begin our ride together. Look out sea coast, here we come!

Cycling en Route

Having pushed through Ontario, our reward was having short driving days for the remainder of our trip to the East coast and time to do a few bike rides. After all, it's not enough that we are heading out to start a 2,000 mile bike trip. We still want to cycle through some of the scenic areas along the way.

Our first stop was the Lake Champlain Islands. A string of islands at the top of the long narrow lake, they are joined by causeways and crisscrossed by bike routes. We pitched our tiny tent in the Grand Isle State Park Campground and set off to explore the island by bike. It was a hot, sunny afternoon but most of the cycling roads clung to the lakeshore, and just looking out at the deep blue water was refreshing.

The affluence of the area was unmistakable, with quaint homes immaculately landscaped and picturesque little villages full of artsy shops and restaurants. Yet in the interior, i was surprised to see that there were also working farms, busily making hay as we passed. I can never resist a Farmers' Market, and we stopped at one with everything from ethnic foods to iced cider to homespun wool. Oh yes, and a few vegetables and local blueberries as well.

Molly cycling on Grand Isle

Molly cycling on Grand Isle

Rich sampling food at the farmers' market

Rich sampling food at the farmers' market

Today brought us to Dartmouth College, Rich's alma matter. Naturally, our first stop had to be the boathouse, where young crew members were going out for their morning training. As a former oarsman, it was tough for Rich to drag himself away from the rowing to begin our bike ride.

Our route took us up the Connecticut River on the Vermont side, hugging the river's edge and cycling through pretty little towns. We had another picture perfect day, and naturally couldn't resist stopping for ice cream at the far point of our ride. Those were the biggest “small” cones we'd ever seen! But we didn't complain. We returned via the New Hampshire side of the river, encountering some major climbs and descents on that route. Good training for our upcoming trip, I kept reminding myself. I especially enjoyed going through Lyme NH, which Rich and I visited when we were just dating, oh so many years ago.

Students rowing at Dartmouth

Students rowing at Dartmouth

Rich cycling along the Connecticut River

Rich cycling along the Connecticut River

Yummy ice cream at Whippi Dip!

Yummy ice cream at Whippi Dip!

Molly in Lyme NH

Molly in Lyme NH

It's a good thing we didn't do a longer ride, or get larger ice cream cones. We barely had our bikes back on the car when the afternoon's threatening rain materialized in a heavy downpour. Whew, timing is everything! We can only hope to continue that luck on our Grand Gaspé Tour.

 

Lake Superior Half Circle Tour

We've never done the Lake Superior Circle Tour, but in the last two days we nearly completed the northern half. We'd never been beyond Nipigon before, and were enchanted with the Canadian stretch of lakeshore on the other end of the lake. Beyond a doubt, it is unspoiled wilderness. The dense forest, deep rock cuts for the road, vast distances between small towns, and soaring views of Lake Superior make it truly unique. Even when the road ventured inland away from the Big Lake, we were continually wowed by views of deep blue pristine lakes.

We were surprised at how hilly the terrain is. Since we are on our way to the east coast to start our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour, we are keenly aware of hills and wind. It was clear that this stretch of the Circle Tour would be most challenging on bicycle. But it also lends beauty to the area. I'm not one who can normally sit in a car for hours on end without working on a project or reading. But the scenery kept me riveted for the last two days.

Rossport's harbor

Rossport's harbor

Aquasabon Falls

Aquasabon Falls

Since we had our bikes along, we took the opportunity to do some cycling near Wawa. Traveling inland on infrequently traveled roads was a delight.

Molly by Wawa Lake

Molly by Wawa Lake

Rich enjoying a picnic lunch in Wawa

Rich enjoying a picnic lunch in Wawa

We chose Pancake Bay Provincial Park to camp for the night. After pitching our humble pup tent in a nice site right next to the beach, I took a long stroll along the waterline, and we picnicked on the sand. As the sound of the waves lulled us to sleep there seemed no better place to be.

Beautiful view north of Pancake Bay

Beautiful view north of Pancake Bay

The beach at Pancake Bay

The beach at Pancake Bay

Now I wonder why we waited so long to visit this end of Lake Superior and take in its beauty. I guess we saved the best for last.

 

Gaspé Prelude

I’ve checked and double checked my detailed list.  My panniers are packed with my cycling clothes and gear.  My duffel bag is full of all the things I’ll need on the drive.  Food and picnic items are prepared for the journey.  Ancillary items are poised to go into the car.  Are we ready to go?

Today we start theDriving Route trip to the beginning of the trip – driving from Duluth out to New Hampshire for our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour.  We have decided to drive north of Lake Superior and continue on through Canada.  We’ve never been past Nipigon at the top of the lake, and are looking forward to seeing the more remote Canadian side of Lake Superior. Having allowed extra time, we can linger and explore along the way and maybe even do a bike ride or two.

Logistically, I think we’re ready.  We’ve done enough cycling trips to know what we need to bring.  We’re physically fit and have plenty of cycling miles behind us.  Our bikes have been in for maintenance, and have an assortment of fresh new parts.  We’ve increased our stock of spare tires and repair tools.  And we have quality gear.  Yes, we’re in good shape there.

Mentally, are we ready?  This summer has been so busy that we really haven’t had time to focus on the reality of this cycling trip until now.  Sure, we planned the route, digested the magnitude of the distance, took a deep breath and enthusiastically exclaimed “Yes, let’s do it!”  But I don’t think the reality of spending two months or more on our bicycles has really sunk in.  Spending all that time traveling, just the two of us.  Pedaling through good weather and bad, uphill and down, with the wind and against it.  Deciding day by day where we will go next.  How far and where we will stay.  For all that time.  Two months or more.

The novelty of the plan has carried us this far.  It’s been great fun to talk about the trip, visualize ourselves out there on the edge of the continent, and tackling an unfathomable distance on two wheels. Perhaps that’s enough. It’s better to go into it feeling the thrill of the challenge, rather than worrying the details.

We’ll have plenty of time to think about it in the car.  But I’d rather concentrate on the sights along the way.  After all, it’s a trip in its own right, the prelude to Gaspé.  And I’m ready to go!

The Showy Lady’s-slipper

My bike route was not an inspiring one. It was a straight out and back ride on a quiet road that offered little variation in scenery. But on this particular day I found some stunning views. If you like wildflowers, that is.

With the late spring, the blooms I was enjoying were far past their normal seasons. Fields of daisies and patches of red hawkweed dominated the roadside. Sprinkled along the way were lupine, wild roses, buttercups and clumps of purple iris. And then there were all the flowers I couldn't name – numerous varieties in yellow, white and purple. But the absolute best were the Lady's-slippers.

Lady Slippers

For a span of several miles, the grassy ditches on both sides of the road were richly adorned with clusters of the beautiful flower. I was thrilled to see the first few blossoms, followed by amazement at how ubiquitous they were. Despite being Minnesota's state flower, I usually consider them to be a rare find. This was a showy display.

What added to their appeal was the brilliance of their color. These were not demure pink flowers. They had richly colored bulbs bordering on deep purple. They stood out in sharp contrast against the fresh spring greenery.

These Lady's-slippers lived up to their name – they were showy indeed. And turned an ordinary bike ride into one of delight.

 

Gaspé – The Ultimate Cycling Tour

It’s been in the planning stages for months.  I’ve alluded to it in several previous posts.  It’s only just over a month away.  So I think it’s time to elaborate on our plans for our most extensive cycling trip yet – The Grand Gaspé Tour.

This trip is Rich’s brain child.  That’s nothing new, he plans most of our adventures.  But the sheer magnitude of this one makes it unique.

The inspiration is his missed opportunity to take a college graduation trip.  While his friends piled into old cars to cruise the USA, Rich dove right into work at his first job.  It’s a decision he came to regret, and one he expects to rectify with this trip.  Having taken all three of our children on graduation trips when they finished college, now it’s Rich’s turn.

Gaspe V3

Our route through Maine, New Brunswick, the Gaspé Peninsula, Quebec City and New Hampshire

Since we are now both retired, we have plenty of time.  Rich took that concept literally and dreamed up a 2-month, 2,000 mile trip through the Canadian Maritimes.  When he proposed it, I jumped right on board.  After all, it combined my passion for fitness and love of travel.

The idea is to take small roads and hug the coastline as closely as possible, taking in the stunning scenery. It must be our Duluth upbringing – we just can’t get enough of coastline and water views.  We will also visit Quebec City for the first time.

For the first week our son, Carl, and my high school friend, Myra, will be cycling with us as we travel up the cost of Maine.  That week is well scripted, with reservations already in place at small motels along the way.  We plan to spend an extra day in Acadia National Park, and reach the border of Canada by the week’s end.

From there on, we’re on our own.  And it’s all virgin territory.  We’ve never cycled with such an open agenda and flexibility before.  We know that if we maintain our normal pace, doing about 60 miles a day, we could complete the route in under 6 weeks, even taking one rest day per week.  But the idea isn’t to just cover the miles.  We have enough extra time to allow spontaneous side trips.  If we like a place, we can stay longer.  If the weather turns rotten, we can wait it out.  Even our end date is loose – we can extend that too, if we choose.

Some of our kids keep wondering just why we’d want to do this.  Who in their right minds would  spend two months on a bicycle with only the contents of their paniers?   WeGaspe Jersey Back just smile and nod, looking forward to the challenge and seeing the countryside up close, at cycling pace.

So come August and September that’s where we’ll be.  On the Grand Gaspé Tour.  You can’t miss us.  We’ll be the ones sporting the lighthouses.

The Second Century

After the cold and wet weekend, it was hard to believe the forecast for a beautiful sunny day on Monday.  Crossing our fingers, my friend Myra and I planned our second annual Century Ride, and were pleased when the weatherman was right for once.

Brimson Century Ride MapOur inaugural 100-mile bike ride last summer was a flat out and back ride on a smooth bike trail.  A good start for novices.  This year we took on a more ambitious route.  We wanted a circle tour with nice scenery, good roads and little traffic.  We quickly settled on the little town of Brimson for our destination, and by manipulating the course with a few detours to add mileage, we finally came up with a good route.  My husband Rich warned that it was too hilly for such a long ride, but that only solidified our determination to stick with the plan.

The good news was that we did most of our hill work at the outset.  Before the sun had an IMG_0114opportunity to heat up the day, we had the bulk of our climbing behind us.  Once inland, we only had rolling hills, and those created more interest than nuisance.  It was a very green route, lined by trees and with little other variation besides the wildflowers blooming on the wayside.  We had hoped to see the numerous lakes that line Pequaywn Lake Road, but they were hidden by those same trees.  However, we did enjoy the unique mailbox that confirmed there must be a lake nearby!

Lunchtime brought us to Brimson, which conveniently happened to be our half-way point.  We didn’t find much evidence of a town, but Hugo’s Bar and General Store provided shade for our picnic as we refueled for the next leg our of ride.

Having attained a nice altitude, our Brimson Century Ride elevationspayback came on our descent into Two Harbors.  It was a straight shot down toward Lake Superior, but it wasn’t as smooth sailing as expected.  We found ourselves pedaling straight into a stiff wind which checked our pace.  I didn’t mind.  It saved wear and tear on my brakes.  On the intermittent uphills Myra admitted to drafting behind me, but somehow I doubt I was much of a windbreak.

We were surprised how quickly the miles mounted up behind us.  Without any major sights to distract us, we took just a few breaks for food and to replenish our water supplies.  Our final rest was a requisite DQ stop in Two Harbors.  After all, what’s the purpose of cycling if we don’t have ice cream?  Heading down the Scenic Highway back to Duluth, we welcomed the slightly cooler breezes delivered by Lake Superior.  By that time we were counting down the miles – not that we were tired or anything…

It felt good to finish, with a great sense of accomplishment.  And we were still smiling!  IMG_0117

Myra, as well as our son Carl, will be joining Rich and me for the first week of our Grand Gaspé Cycling tour later in the summer.  On that trip we will need to push on, day after day, regardless of what the weatherman delivers.  No matter how relentless the hills.  Whatever the road conditions.  I think we can handle it.

A Dandy Summer Day

Nothing says summer like dandelions. Normally I’m not such a fan. But after waiting so long for summer this year, seeing anything in bloom is rather a thrill. So even though the fish house on Stony Point is a highly popular subject of local photographs, including mine, as I was cycling by I couldn’t resist capturing it surrounded by the brilliant yellow blooms.

Fish house at Stony Point

I’d been taught to look for new and unique angles in my photography class, so I decided to get up close and personal with the dandelions. Lying flat on the grass, nestled into their yellowness I clicked away. Perhaps the resulting image is not all that unique, but the process of capturing it was distinctly satisfying. Stretching out in the sun and peering through the low flowers was the epitome of a summer day. No reason to hurry, no pressing need to move on, I felt as peaceful as the calm water on the other side of the building.

It was that sort of day. Taking advantage of the lack of wind I’d decided to cycle up the Scenic Highway and back again, clinging to the shore, savoring the views and basking in the sunshine. It’s not often that the water is so calm, and the seagulls, birds and mysterious swimming animals seemed to be enjoying it as well. For once I was able to shed my obsession for exercise and cycle for the sheer joy of being out on a beautiful summer day in such idyllic surroundings.

Stony Point shoreline

Even without a “wind off the lake” there were still pockets of Superior-chilled air along the shore. I cycled through a patchwork of warm and cool temperatures. Lake Superior was gently exerting her influence, with reminders of the just how recently the ice retreated from her shorelines.

The spring green color of the newly leafed out trees belied the advanced date in June. The lilacs, apple trees and tulips had suddenly burst into bloom. And for the first time this year it felt like summer. Dandelions and all.

Two Techie Cyclists

We admit it. We love our technology. My husband, Rich, and I are avid cyclists and have taken to doing long distance cycling trips. We love the slower pace and more engaged style of travel that it encourages. We have mastered the art of traveling light, even when camping. And that includes our techie toys.

First on the list are our Garmin GPS watches. We haven’t updated them in years, but perhaps that’s not such a bad thing. Although the older models are much bulkier, they have bigger displays for our aging eyes. We wouldn’t dream of going for a ride without them. They not only display our mileage, pace and time as we go, but when we get home we download them to SportTracks where we can view our route on a map, and analyze other data ad nauseam.

DevicesThat brings us to the next item – our tablets. Absolutely essential. In addition to blogging (of course!), we download all our photos each night, to edit and organize them.  And of course we use email, maps and other apps. They are the most economical use of space for any device we bring – particularly as they allow us to read an unlimited number of books along the way.

Smartphones are our lifeline while we’re gone. We don’t use them much during the day, but they are there if we need them, and keep us connected to family back home. And then there are the maps. Rich can download Google Maps locally on his Android phone ahead of time, and even without a cell connection he can use GPS to pinpoint us on a map and clarify where we really are. Or where we need to go. It has saved us many a wrong turn.

Not bad, just three devices each. But now that we’ve taken to doing longer trips and camping, we face new challenges. Our Garmins only store a limited amount of data – four full days is about the max mine will hold before the detail gets written over. Even if we trade off using them on alternate days, it’s still not enough. Enter Sportablet. It’s an Android app that Rich has loaded on his Nexus 10 tablet, and now we can both download all our GPS data nightly and save it for the duration of the trip. It works like a dream!  So we have our data licked.  (And to give Android its due, clearly there are some things it does much better than Apple – handling external data is one of them.)

PowerMonkey being chargedPower is not an issue when staying in motels, but what about when camping? We turned to solar power on our last trip, using the SolarMonkey Adventurer. I strapped it onto my sleeping bag to charge during our ride in the daytime, and at night we were able to recharge two Garmin GPS watches, two cell PowerMonkey chargingphones, and it still had additional power capacity. At 15 oz, we deemed it worth carrying.  Power solved, at least if the sun shines…

Our next trip will be 2,000 miles long, and will keep us on our bicycles up to two months.  Sunshine and satellites willing, and the occasional internet connection, we will be happy techies.

A Perfect Cycling Grand Finale

Day 8 Northfield to Shakopee v2

Day 8 – Northfield to Shakopee 48 miles

Our last day of the Upper Mississippi River Cycling Tour.  Even after seven straight days of cycling, I was sad to see our trip nearing completion.  On the other hand, I was eagerly looking forward to the 30th Wedding Anniversary Celebration that awaited us at the end of the road.

It wasn’t the most beautiful day, with clouds overhead and temperatures in the low 50s, but a day earlier the forecast was for rain, so I considered it a good day!  The winds had picked up too, but fortunately they were mostly behind us – a treat after all the headwinds we’ve had on this trip.

IMG_1172My head was definitely in a different place today.  It wasn’t the same as the other days of our tour, when we were fully in the mode, taking in all the sights and making the most of the journey.  Today was really all about the destination.  Sure the farms were picturesque, we enjoyed the cows and horses in their pastures, and we had a tasty stop at Patty’s Place for a IMG_1168snack in New Prague.  But we were eager to reach the end.

The closer we got to the outskirts of the Twin Cities, the more the farmhouses looked like suburban homes.  They looked a bit incongruous in the center of large working farms.  We encountered our first lake with about 10 miles to go.  We’d seen plenty of rivers and ponds, but no true Minnesota lakes.  We were zeroing in on home territory.

As planned, we rode to our daughter’s house where all of our children, grandchildren and a few close friends were gathered.  We had a lively welcoming party, as they cheered us down the final street to the house.  The afternoon was pure enjoyment, surrounded by those we love.  It was filled with much laughter, many hugs, good food and warm feelings.Cheering squadArrivalFamily on arrivalKaren and conesOur kids collaborated on not only the party, but the entertainment.  In true Brewer style (ie my family’s tradition) they collectively authored an epic poem, which they recited with great animation to commemorate our lives together – meeting, dating, marrying, birthing and parenting.  It was an amazing piece of work and an hysterical tribute.  Karen upheld her theme cake decorating reputation, producing Cake Cones in honor of our detour to the Dairy Queen after our wedding 30 years ago.  That called for a re-creation of the scene when we arrived at our reception, cones in hand, linking arms to lick them!

Linking conesThe tour is finished, but the memories will live on.  We had many great moments on our trip – met wonderful people, worked through cycling challenges, appreciated beautiful scenery and appreciated experiencing it all up close from the seat of a bicycle.  But the best memories will be holding tight to our family members and friends at the grand finale.  It was just perfect.