Off with a Bang!

Posted on August 3, 2013 by Molly

Today's the day. The start of the Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour! As planned, we started from Exeter Academy in New Hampshire, and ceremoniously cycled away from our car through campus. Naturally, we stopped for the obligatory group photo, pressing a passing student into service as photographer. Suddenly, a loud shot rang out – BANG! – startling everyone. It was Rich's front inner tube, which spontaneously blew out! The first road repair of the trip was staring us in the face. Just .6 miles into our ride. At least it was an aesthetically pleasing place to do the work.

Fortunately, the remainder of the day's ride proceeded without further incident. We covered a mere 19 miles due to the complexity of scheduling everyone's arrival at the start, but that gave the day a relaxed feel. Taking back roads we traveled through beautiful neighborhoods and pretty towns, admiring the gardens and extensive landscaping which was at its summer peak. Conversation flowed easily up and back the column of four riders, as we cycled the quiet roads. It was hard to believe that this was the real thing. Despite breaking out the official trip jerseys, and and putting the panniers on our bikes, it all felt a bit surreal. Perhaps reality will sink in tomorrow when we have some serious miles to cover.

We did manage to do a little sightseeing. Reaching Portsmouth, we found it bustling with activity, and walked our bicycles through the busy downtown area on the water taking it all in. Restaurants, shops and plenty of tourists thronged the streets. The Eagle, the Coast Guard Tall Ship was in town, so we took time to check it out as well.

Having traveled over the bridge to Kittery, we're barely into Maine, but it's a start. A good start – big bang and all.

The cyclists - Myra, Carl, Rich and Molly

Grand Gaspé Tour – Cast of Characters

Posted on August 2, 2013 by Molly

With the start of our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour just one day away, it seems appropriate to introduce the intrepid cyclists who are taking the plunge on this great adventure. It’s worth noting at the outset that there are two classes cyclists here. Two of us are doing the whole kahuna. We’re the crazy ones anticipating traveling and carrying all our worldly goods for two months and over 2,000 miles on our bicycles. We are the ones venturing into the Canadian Maritimes with only a general route in mind and several detours already under consideration. The other two are more sane. They are merely tackling the first 500 miles with us along the coast of Maine, with hotel reservations already in place, guaranteeing a shower and dry bed at the end of each day. Either way, it’s going to be a Grand Tour.

Rich – Full Route

This was all his idea. My husband is the veteran of five past cycling tours, all but one self-planned. He loves playing travel agent, researching the details and making the reservations. In fact, he has dreamed up far more future trips than we could ever execute. Rich is a steady cyclist who detests hills (especially with loaded panniers) and loves the thrill of plummeting downhill. He embraces sightseeing stops on his cycling tours, sometimes to the consternation of his fellow cyclists. A Northern Pike shaped car and vivid purple cow are mere examples. He’s also an avid photographer, so photo opps are valid reasons to tarry along the way.

Most looking forward to: Seeing the next “purple cow”

Biggest worry: How my body will hold up over 2,000 miles of cycling

Molly – Full Route

That’s me. I was cajoled into trying cycling by Rich a mere 19 months ago. I wasn’t sure i wanted to trade marathon running for cycling. But following my first trip I was hooked. I’ve now completed two long distance bike tours and despite the audacity of this itinerary I was quick to agree to the plan. My cycling style tends to be more intense. I’m not one to dawdle. I like to push the pace, put the miles behind me and have to be convinced to stop and smell the flowers. Rich and I probably balance each other out pretty well – he makes sure we have fun along the way and I make sure we get to our destination.

Most looking forward to: The coastline, with its cliffs, waves and lighthouses

Biggest worry: Cycling in heavy rain

Carl – Maine Only

Carl is our middle child. He has always prided himself on making his own decisions. While the rest of the family played the accordion (that’s another story), he adamantly stuck to guitar and banjo. In a family of marathon runners, Carl pursued serious cycling. Interesting that now two of us have come around. Carl has done two long distance cycling trips, one being a father-son tour with Rich. So he knows what he’s getting into on this trip. Carl has the only road bike among three touring style bikes in the group – still the individual. He’s also the fastest among us. And to be fair, the has the youngest legs by 30 years. We’ll see if he forges ahead or stays with the pack.

Most looking forward to: Acadia National Park

Biggest worry: I am bit unsure about what it will be like biking in a group of four people when everyone probably is used to going at different paces.

Myra – Maine Only

Myra’s still wondering how she ended up on this trip. She’s been a friend of mine since Jr High, and in an era when few sports were available to girls in school Myra played them all. So it’s no surprise that she’s been cycling for years, and when I took it up we discovered we were well matched. To date we’ve logged two century rides together. It was only in casual conversation about the trip that I threw out the idea that she join us, and with little hesitation she committed. This is Myra’s maiden long distance bike tour. But I’m not concerned. Myra is able to keep up both a solid pace and a steady conversation for miles and miles. And she always seems to have the energy to go farther – as long as she’s well fed.

Most looking forward to: Just getting out and riding through beautiful country and enjoying it from a bicycle.

Biggest worry: How many bagels should I bring and how will I keep them fresh and how much will they weigh?

Tomorrow this motley crew will gather in Exeter, New Hampshire to begin our ride together. Look out sea coast, here we come!

Cycling en Route

Posted on August 1, 2013 by Molly

Having pushed through Ontario, our reward was having short driving days for the remainder of our trip to the East coast and time to do a few bike rides. After all, it's not enough that we are heading out to start a 2,000 mile bike trip. We still want to cycle through some of the scenic areas along the way.

Our first stop was the Lake Champlain Islands. A string of islands at the top of the long narrow lake, they are joined by causeways and crisscrossed by bike routes. We pitched our tiny tent in the Grand Isle State Park Campground and set off to explore the island by bike. It was a hot, sunny afternoon but most of the cycling roads clung to the lakeshore, and just looking out at the deep blue water was refreshing.

The affluence of the area was unmistakable, with quaint homes immaculately landscaped and picturesque little villages full of artsy shops and restaurants. Yet in the interior, i was surprised to see that there were also working farms, busily making hay as we passed. I can never resist a Farmers' Market, and we stopped at one with everything from ethnic foods to iced cider to homespun wool. Oh yes, and a few vegetables and local blueberries as well.

Molly cycling on Grand Isle

Rich sampling food at the farmers' market

Today brought us to Dartmouth College, Rich's alma matter. Naturally, our first stop had to be the boathouse, where young crew members were going out for their morning training. As a former oarsman, it was tough for Rich to drag himself away from the rowing to begin our bike ride.

Our route took us up the Connecticut River on the Vermont side, hugging the river's edge and cycling through pretty little towns. We had another picture perfect day, and naturally couldn't resist stopping for ice cream at the far point of our ride. Those were the biggest “small” cones we'd ever seen! But we didn't complain. We returned via the New Hampshire side of the river, encountering some major climbs and descents on that route. Good training for our upcoming trip, I kept reminding myself. I especially enjoyed going through Lyme NH, which Rich and I visited when we were just dating, oh so many years ago.

Students rowing at Dartmouth

Rich cycling along the Connecticut River

Yummy ice cream at Whippi Dip!

Molly in Lyme NH

It's a good thing we didn't do a longer ride, or get larger ice cream cones. We barely had our bikes back on the car when the afternoon's threatening rain materialized in a heavy downpour. Whew, timing is everything! We can only hope to continue that luck on our Grand Gaspé Tour.

Coming Unplugged

Posted on July 31, 2013 by Molly

We knew that cell phone coverage in Canada would be an issue. My phone plan flat out does not include Canada. Rich's phone is unique in that it uses wifi for its primary access, so he occasionally has connectivity. To rectify the situation, we intended to buy a cheap prepaid phone in Canada, but such plans to not include calls to the US. Not willing to spend an arm and a leg for service, we're just going to make do.

First, we're testing the limits of our equipment. Rich figured out he can still send and receive email on his phone when there is cell service. Texting seems to work as well, on the same basis. Sounds good, but we're traveling through remote areas of Ontario. We just have to hope for signals if we run into an emergency and need to notify family back home.

Naturally, wifi is a valid lifeline. When we can find it. We suffered mediocre breakfast food and barely passable coffee one morning for the glory of a fast internet connection. We rapidly connected, checked email, published blog posts and checked in with Facebook. We've learned to work offline ahead of time, using our scarce internet time to push content to the web and download sites to read later.

Normally we would get our internet fix in the evenings. Even cheap motels offer free internet. But campsites don't provide the same luxury. We thought we had it made when we found a cute little restaurant attached to a motel for dinner last night. Sure enough they had wifi. Unfortunately, the waitress was more focused on food than technology, and we never did get that password. But there were other compensations. Instead of lingering over our tablets we got back to our campsite in time for a beautiful sunset.

With each passing day, the withdrawal symptoms have lessened. Checking email seems less urgent. Reading at night wins out over composing blog posts. Life will go on if we don't post our latest pictures on Facebook. We've trained hard for our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour, and this final journey to the start of that trip is preparing us in another way. The Canadian Maritimes are guaranteed to present even greater technology challenges. Fortunately, we've also learned a trick. What seems to be extinct in the US is still available in Canada. If we remember how to use it, we can still call home. Even when we're unplugged.

Lake Superior Half Circle Tour

Posted on July 30, 2013 by Molly

We've never done the Lake Superior Circle Tour, but in the last two days we nearly completed the northern half. We'd never been beyond Nipigon before, and were enchanted with the Canadian stretch of lakeshore on the other end of the lake. Beyond a doubt, it is unspoiled wilderness. The dense forest, deep rock cuts for the road, vast distances between small towns, and soaring views of Lake Superior make it truly unique. Even when the road ventured inland away from the Big Lake, we were continually wowed by views of deep blue pristine lakes.

We were surprised at how hilly the terrain is. Since we are on our way to the east coast to start our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour, we are keenly aware of hills and wind. It was clear that this stretch of the Circle Tour would be most challenging on bicycle. But it also lends beauty to the area. I'm not one who can normally sit in a car for hours on end without working on a project or reading. But the scenery kept me riveted for the last two days.

Rossport's harbor

Aquasabon Falls

Since we had our bikes along, we took the opportunity to do some cycling near Wawa. Traveling inland on infrequently traveled roads was a delight.

Molly by Wawa Lake

Rich enjoying a picnic lunch in Wawa

We chose Pancake Bay Provincial Park to camp for the night. After pitching our humble pup tent in a nice site right next to the beach, I took a long stroll along the waterline, and we picnicked on the sand. As the sound of the waves lulled us to sleep there seemed no better place to be.

Beautiful view north of Pancake Bay

The beach at Pancake Bay

Now I wonder why we waited so long to visit this end of Lake Superior and take in its beauty. I guess we saved the best for last.

Gaspé Prelude

Posted on July 28, 2013 by Molly

I’ve checked and double checked my detailed list. My panniers are packed with my cycling clothes and gear. My duffel bag is full of all the things I’ll need on the drive. Food and picnic items are prepared for the journey. Ancillary items are poised to go into the car. Are we ready to go?

Today we start the trip to the beginning of the trip – driving from Duluth out to New Hampshire for our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour. We have decided to drive north of Lake Superior and continue on through Canada. We’ve never been past Nipigon at the top of the lake, and are looking forward to seeing the more remote Canadian side of Lake Superior. Having allowed extra time, we can linger and explore along the way and maybe even do a bike ride or two.

Logistically, I think we’re ready. We’ve done enough cycling trips to know what we need to bring. We’re physically fit and have plenty of cycling miles behind us. Our bikes have been in for maintenance, and have an assortment of fresh new parts. We’ve increased our stock of spare tires and repair tools. And we have quality gear. Yes, we’re in good shape there.

Mentally, are we ready? This summer has been so busy that we really haven’t had time to focus on the reality of this cycling trip until now. Sure, we planned the route, digested the magnitude of the distance, took a deep breath and enthusiastically exclaimed “Yes, let’s do it!” But I don’t think the reality of spending two months or more on our bicycles has really sunk in. Spending all that time traveling, just the two of us. Pedaling through good weather and bad, uphill and down, with the wind and against it. Deciding day by day where we will go next. How far and where we will stay. For all that time. Two months or more.

The novelty of the plan has carried us this far. It’s been great fun to talk about the trip, visualize ourselves out there on the edge of the continent, and tackling an unfathomable distance on two wheels. Perhaps that’s enough. It’s better to go into it feeling the thrill of the challenge, rather than worrying the details.

We’ll have plenty of time to think about it in the car. But I’d rather concentrate on the sights along the way. After all, it’s a trip in its own right, the prelude to Gaspé. And I’m ready to go!

Gaspé – The Ultimate Cycling Tour

Posted on June 26, 2013 by Molly

It’s been in the planning stages for months. I’ve alluded to it in several previous posts. It’s only just over a month away. So I think it’s time to elaborate on our plans for our most extensive cycling trip yet – The Grand Gaspé Tour.

This trip is Rich’s brain child. That’s nothing new, he plans most of our adventures. But the sheer magnitude of this one makes it unique.

The inspiration is his missed opportunity to take a college graduation trip. While his friends piled into old cars to cruise the USA, Rich dove right into work at his first job. It’s a decision he came to regret, and one he expects to rectify with this trip. Having taken all three of our children on graduation trips when they finished college, now it’s Rich’s turn.

Our route through Maine, New Brunswick, the Gaspé Peninsula, Quebec City and New Hampshire

Since we are now both retired, we have plenty of time. Rich took that concept literally and dreamed up a 2-month, 2,000 mile trip through the Canadian Maritimes. When he proposed it, I jumped right on board. After all, it combined my passion for fitness and love of travel.

The idea is to take small roads and hug the coastline as closely as possible, taking in the stunning scenery. It must be our Duluth upbringing – we just can’t get enough of coastline and water views. We will also visit Quebec City for the first time.

For the first week our son, Carl, and my high school friend, Myra, will be cycling with us as we travel up the cost of Maine. That week is well scripted, with reservations already in place at small motels along the way. We plan to spend an extra day in Acadia National Park, and reach the border of Canada by the week’s end.

From there on, we’re on our own. And it’s all virgin territory. We’ve never cycled with such an open agenda and flexibility before. We know that if we maintain our normal pace, doing about 60 miles a day, we could complete the route in under 6 weeks, even taking one rest day per week. But the idea isn’t to just cover the miles. We have enough extra time to allow spontaneous side trips. If we like a place, we can stay longer. If the weather turns rotten, we can wait it out. Even our end date is loose – we can extend that too, if we choose.

Some of our kids keep wondering just why we’d want to do this. Who in their right minds would spend two months on a bicycle with only the contents of their paniers? We just smile and nod, looking forward to the challenge and seeing the countryside up close, at cycling pace.

So come August and September that’s where we’ll be. On the Grand Gaspé Tour. You can’t miss us. We’ll be the ones sporting the lighthouses.

The Second Century

Posted on June 25, 2013 by Molly

After the cold and wet weekend, it was hard to believe the forecast for a beautiful sunny day on Monday. Crossing our fingers, my friend Myra and I planned our second annual Century Ride, and were pleased when the weatherman was right for once.

Our inaugural 100-mile bike ride last summer was a flat out and back ride on a smooth bike trail. A good start for novices. This year we took on a more ambitious route. We wanted a circle tour with nice scenery, good roads and little traffic. We quickly settled on the little town of Brimson for our destination, and by manipulating the course with a few detours to add mileage, we finally came up with a good route. My husband Rich warned that it was too hilly for such a long ride, but that only solidified our determination to stick with the plan.

The good news was that we did most of our hill work at the outset. Before the sun had an opportunity to heat up the day, we had the bulk of our climbing behind us. Once inland, we only had rolling hills, and those created more interest than nuisance. It was a very green route, lined by trees and with little other variation besides the wildflowers blooming on the wayside. We had hoped to see the numerous lakes that line Pequaywn Lake Road, but they were hidden by those same trees. However, we did enjoy the unique mailbox that confirmed there must be a lake nearby!

Lunchtime brought us to Brimson, which conveniently happened to be our half-way point. We didn’t find much evidence of a town, but Hugo’s Bar and General Store provided shade for our picnic as we refueled for the next leg our of ride.

Having attained a nice altitude, our payback came on our descent into Two Harbors. It was a straight shot down toward Lake Superior, but it wasn’t as smooth sailing as expected. We found ourselves pedaling straight into a stiff wind which checked our pace. I didn’t mind. It saved wear and tear on my brakes. On the intermittent uphills Myra admitted to drafting behind me, but somehow I doubt I was much of a windbreak.

We were surprised how quickly the miles mounted up behind us. Without any major sights to distract us, we took just a few breaks for food and to replenish our water supplies. Our final rest was a requisite DQ stop in Two Harbors. After all, what’s the purpose of cycling if we don’t have ice cream? Heading down the Scenic Highway back to Duluth, we welcomed the slightly cooler breezes delivered by Lake Superior. By that time we were counting down the miles – not that we were tired or anything…

It felt good to finish, with a great sense of accomplishment. And we were still smiling!

Myra, as well as our son Carl, will be joining Rich and me for the first week of our Grand Gaspé Cycling tour later in the summer. On that trip we will need to push on, day after day, regardless of what the weatherman delivers. No matter how relentless the hills. Whatever the road conditions. I think we can handle it.

Two Techie Cyclists

Posted on May 29, 2013 by Molly

We admit it. We love our technology. My husband, Rich, and I are avid cyclists and have taken to doing long distance cycling trips. We love the slower pace and more engaged style of travel that it encourages. We have mastered the art of traveling light, even when camping. And that includes our techie toys.

First on the list are our Garmin GPS watches. We haven’t updated them in years, but perhaps that’s not such a bad thing. Although the older models are much bulkier, they have bigger displays for our aging eyes. We wouldn’t dream of going for a ride without them. They not only display our mileage, pace and time as we go, but when we get home we download them to SportTracks where we can view our route on a map, and analyze other data ad nauseam.

That brings us to the next item – our tablets. Absolutely essential. In addition to blogging (of course!), we download all our photos each night, to edit and organize them. And of course we use email, maps and other apps. They are the most economical use of space for any device we bring – particularly as they allow us to read an unlimited number of books along the way.

Smartphones are our lifeline while we’re gone. We don’t use them much during the day, but they are there if we need them, and keep us connected to family back home. And then there are the maps. Rich can download Google Maps locally on his Android phone ahead of time, and even without a cell connection he can use GPS to pinpoint us on a map and clarify where we really are. Or where we need to go. It has saved us many a wrong turn.

Not bad, just three devices each. But now that we’ve taken to doing longer trips and camping, we face new challenges. Our Garmins only store a limited amount of data – four full days is about the max mine will hold before the detail gets written over. Even if we trade off using them on alternate days, it’s still not enough. Enter Sportablet. It’s an Android app that Rich has loaded on his Nexus 10 tablet, and now we can both download all our GPS data nightly and save it for the duration of the trip. It works like a dream! So we have our data licked. (And to give Android its due, clearly there are some things it does much better than Apple – handling external data is one of them.)

Power is not an issue when staying in motels, but what about when camping? We turned to solar power on our last trip, using the SolarMonkey Adventurer. I strapped it onto my sleeping bag to charge during our ride in the daytime, and at night we were able to recharge two Garmin GPS watches, two cell phones, and it still had additional power capacity. At 15 oz, we deemed it worth carrying. Power solved, at least if the sun shines…

Our next trip will be 2,000 miles long, and will keep us on our bicycles up to two months. Sunshine and satellites willing, and the occasional internet connection, we will be happy techies.

Superior Footprints

Life and the Outdoors in the Northland

Tag Archives: Grand Gaspe Cycling Tour

Off with a Bang!

Grand Gaspé Tour – Cast of Characters

Cycling en Route

Coming Unplugged

Lake Superior Half Circle Tour

Gaspé Prelude

Gaspé – The Ultimate Cycling Tour

The Second Century

Two Techie Cyclists

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