Sunset Cycling

After two months sitting dormant in the garage, my bicycle is back out on the road again.  These oddly warm days of November have enticed me back onto the seat, and it sure feels good.  How could I forget how wonderful it is to fly along Scenic 61?  My feet going in circles, the wind whistling through my helmet, the whir of my gears and the lake my constant companion.  Never mind that it’s chilly, I’m wrapped in layers of clothes and my toes grow colder with each mile.

Sunlight on the birch treesThe shorter days catch me by surprise.  I’m enjoying the golden glow of the sun behind me as I ride up the shore.  Its low light reflects off the white of the birches and bathes the shoreline in amber as it slips down in the sky.  I pedal on, in search of a good vantage point for a photograph, oblivious of my narrowing window to return.North Shore sunset

At last a gap in the trees provides me with a view.  Turning around, I find a stunning sunset.  The sun is making its final descent to the hillside of Duluth, and in its final moments the brilliant yellow flare is almost blinding.  The rest of the sky is just beginning to take on a fiery orange cast, each cloud becoming the perfect reflector for the sun’s rays.  I snap photo after photo, trying different viewpoints and settings, hoping to capture the magic before my eyes.

Returning to my bike, the road is visibly darker.  Daylight is fading fast with the sun’s disappearance.  I have a good 40 minute ride to get home, and it quickly becomes a race with the diminishing light.  Thankfully the flashers on my bike have retained enough battery power to make me visible to cars.  But they do nothing for my own night sight.  What might be a dire situation is actually a thrill.  With each passing mile, the sky intensifies to an even deeper red, reaching high overhead.  The trees have become flat black silhouettes, outlined in sharp contrast with the crimson backdrop.  Looking higher, I discover an ultra-thin crescent moon perched in the darkening sky above.  My legs pump and I spin toward this magnificent scene.  I drink it all in with my eyes, knowing I can’t afford any more stops on this trip.  Perhaps it’s all the more beautiful for its ephemeral nature.

Night sky at homeMy own neighborhood is darkest of all.  The last few blocks lack a streetlight and I am pitched into near total darkness on our rural road.  There the moon hangs over the neighborhood homes, and I am thankful to return safely.  Yet all the richer for my sunset cycling.

Shooting the Moon

There has been a lot of hype about tonight’s supermoon and the lunar eclipse.  Even I was intrigued.  So when Rich headed down to Canal Park to photograph the rising moon, I decided to accompany him.  The decision wasn’t difficult.  It was a beautiful mild evening, very calm and inviting.  Even if I didn’t get any great photos, it would be a pleasant outing.

As soon as we arrived, we noticed another photographer heading for the Lakewalk.  He had a fancy camera atop his high-end tripod that he carried over his shoulder in a rather cavalier manner.  In the other hand, he held a case that could only hold a huge long lens.  It looked like we were in the right spot.

We set up shop near the corner of the Lakewalk and awaited the moon’s arrival.  With two foreign freighters anchored in the lake, we tried to position ourselves so that the moon would rise near one of them.  But we wouldn’t know until it came up.  As we waited, an aura of expectation developed along the Lakewalk.  Nearly everyone sported a camera around the neck.  And the population of tripods rapidly increased along the shoreline.

It was a couple of walkers who ultimately clued us in to the rising moon when I overheard them pointing it out.  It was so faint on the horizon Super Moon 2that we could hardly see it – a light blue orb blending in with the murky distant sky.  And it was in the wrong spot.  Or more accurately, we were.  Hefting our tripods, we rapidly headed closer to the bridge where we could get a better angle.  By the time we moved far enough to capture the moon with one of the ships, the moon was far more distinguishable and took on an orange glow.  Now it was getting more interesting.

Schlepping our gear closer yet to the pier, we found an even better view.  We could combine the moon, the freighter and the lighthouse.  Soon we were synchronizing our snapshots with the flash of the lighthouse’s beacon.Super Moon 3The higher the moon rose, the better its reflection.  By this time we were surrounded by other photography enthusiasts, all enjoying the spectacle.  The camaraderie was infectious, and rather than being competitive there was common rejoicing whenever someone captured an exceptional image.

Super Moon 4Indeed, it was a beautiful night to be shooting the moon.

Breaking out of the Mold

It’s easy to get in a rut.  Especially for me, a lover of routine and efficiency.  But inspired by meeting with a group of outdoor enthusiasts last night, I was determined to try something new this morning.  So throwing out all my known routes, I set my bike on a new course.  I was ready to explore.

Skyline Bike Route MapThe early hour brought a chill to the air, and the later-rising sun took its time to warm things up. Despite being well bundled, it was nippy cycling straight into the wind.  There was little let-up as my initial leg took me inland, heading due west for a long stretch.  But there were side benefits.  The sun felt warm on my back and the newly laid pavement was a wonderful surface for cycling.

Pelican CoffeeBy the time 15 miles were behind me, my paltry dinner the night before had faded, compounding my chill.  Treasuring the thought of a warm-up, I was thrilled to find that Pelican Coffee was nearby.  With a slight alteration in course, I was soon walking through the door.  Normally, I never stop while on my bike rides.  But I was rather getting to like this new mode.  With a well crafted latte and Nutella scone gracing the table in front of me I savored the ambiance of this newly launched community focused, global missions based enterprise.

Warm and well fueled, I resumed my ride.  Heading back toward Lake Superior, I ultimately reached the scenic portion of my route.  I have never cycled Skyline Drive from end to end across the city of Duluth, so that is exactly what I set out to do.  I had the perfect sunny day for the broad scenic overviews that abound, and my pace slowed considerably as I stopped frequently to admire and take pictures.

IMG_2395Enger Tower called to me as I passed, so I took that in as well – an uncharted detour.  It seemed pointless to stop at the bottom, so I climbed the beautifully restored tower and took in the 360 degree view from the top.  My timing was perfect as the US Coast Guard Cutter Alder was just about to pass under the Aerial Bridge.  Coast Guard ship going under the bridge

Bong Bridge and St. Louis River

Bong Bridge and St. Louis River

Duluth stretching along the lakle

Duluth stretching along the lake

Creating a view of the lake I greatly enjoyed checking out the various neighborhoods that stretched across the city, from mansions to tidy little homes.  Duluthians will do anything for a view of the lake.  So I had to chuckle at the owners of this house who were determined to see the lake from every level – including from the hot tub perched above the roof.

Crossing from west to east, I eventually found my way into familiar territory.  East Skyline Drive passes through Hawk Ridge, which is now in its peak season for bird watching.  That perch high above Lakeside was teaming with folks sporting binoculars and cameras to catch the migrating birds.Hawk RidgeIt was all downhill from there to return home.  Thirty-six miles after I set out, I was still smiling.  It felt so good to break out of the mold and do something different.

Sod Roofing 101

The entry on our calendar just said “Rich work.”  It looked like an all-day affair for one of his birding organizations.  “We’re putting a sod roof on the visitor center at the Sax Zim Bog,” came the reply to my inquiry.  “Wanna come and help?”

So much for asking a simple question.  I had to admit to some curiosity.  Just how does one create a sod roof, anyway?  There was only one way to find out.  I was in.

Sod delivered to the roofDecked out in grubby clothes, ready to battle through the heat of the day, we arrived at the same time as the sod was delivered.  The roof of the center was already covered with a black underlayment, ready for its organic green canopy.  As promised, there was a portable stairway adjacent to the building, eliminating the need to climb up ladders with the heavy loads.  Expecting to carry roll after roll of sod up to the roof, the gathered workers were elated when the delivery truck came equipped with a small forklift.  Two full pallets of sod were swiftly transported to the building and effortlessly hoisted to roof level – hooray!  From there it was quick work to stash the rolls on the roof.

Hoisting rock to the roof Before we could lay the sod, the gutters around the perimeter had to be filled with gravel.  A huge pile of rock sat at the bottom of the steps, which we tackled with shovels and buckets.  Those much stronger than I could scoop up a 5-gallon bucketful in a single movement and haul two of them up the stairs.  Others operated a pulley to lift additional loads to roof level.  I merely shoveled.  Bit by bit, slowly filling buckets for someone else to carry and distribute around the roof.

Laying the sod was the fun part.  The first layer went grass side down.  Apparently, that is the age-old method of doing it. The sod rolled out easily and with many hands working, the roof was quickly covered.  The second layer was added in the opposite direction, and a cushy green surface soon evolved  The only detail work involved was cutting the sod to fit odd spaces for perfect coverage.  Left over sod was added as an extra layer on the highest portion of the roof, where the vegetation was most likely to dry out.First layer of sodSecond layer of sodSod roof nearly completeAnd that was it!  It wasn’t even 11:00 am when the crew posed for a group shot on the roof, congratulated themselves on a job well done, and rejoiced in having an unexpected half a day free.

Completed sod roofThe project was not quite complete.  Before our departure, arrangements were made with the local fire department to come with their pumper truck and water the new roof that afternoon.

I was covered in loose dirt and swatting flies, but was glad I had joined in.  I may not have moved as much rock, or rolled out as much sod as others, but it was fascinating seeing it all come together.  And I’m anxious to come back years hence to view the mature growth, complete with wildflowers.

Sometimes it’s hard for me to break out of my routine and do something different.  But when I do, there are always rewards.  Even if I never use this knowledge again, I’ve now had my crash course in sod roofing 101.

Taking the Plunge

Sometimes you just have to let loose and take advantage of what life sends your way.  With a free afternoon, and yet another day of blistering heat, when my friend Beth said she was going to a swimming hole I quickly volunteered to accompany her.  Although we live across from “The Deeps” (the infamous swimming hole favored by teens) and additional river pools abound in Amity Creek and Lester River, I had never gone swimming in one.

Beth took me to a spot in Lester River less than a mile from our house.  Clambering down the riverside, we dumped our stuff on the warm rocks and I followed Beth into the pool.  It was very shallow on one side and quickly dropped off to a deep hole on the other.  I had expected frigid river water, but to my surprise it was quite warm.  We immediately immersed ourselves in the water, which felt so good after the day’s heat.  Floating on our backs, looking up into the sky through the green branches of the pine trees was heavenly.  It was hard to believe we were really in a city.

Moving up river from the pool, there were some rapids with shallow pools.  We deposited ourselves there, waist deep in the flowing water.  The hot sun actually felt good as the water swirled around us while we talked and relaxed.  By the time we climbed back out of the gorge, I no longer felt hot and bothered.  The river had washed all that away.

Walking up the Sucker RiverDuring coffee hour at church this morning, I mentioned my adventure.  As it happens, one couple at our table lives Jacuzzi Falls on the Sucker River and told us about the “Jacuzzi Falls” where they like to go.  Before long, we had an invitation to join them and by early afternoon six of us were hiking up the river together. We followed the water upstream, sometimes walking the river bottom.  Soaking my feet in the river felt oh, so good.

Just as promised, we reached a series of small waterfalls, each with a pool below.  It was a popular spot today, but we found one that was unoccupied and soon claimed it for ourselves.  It too was fairly warm, making it comfortable to hang out in the water.  We took turns bracing ourselves under the waterfall, letting it flow over our heads until the force of the water eventually pushed us away toward the deep center of the pool.  It was the perfect respite from the day’s sweltering heat.

Sucker River swimming hole Rich and Molly at the base of the waterfallI never expected to spend two successive afternoons hanging out in a swimming hole.  And yet it’s the most fun I’ve had in ages.  Both were spontaneous decisions, and better than any planned activity could ever be.  It was enjoyment in the purest sense, entertained by Mother Nature, shared with good friends, and good healthy outdoor activity.  What could be better than that?  I’m so glad I took the plunge.

Love those Lupine

Bluebonnets of TexasNot being much of a gardener, I find wildflowers especially appealing.  They voluntarily spring up along the roadside, in the woods and wherever they find a hospitable habitat.  No cultivating required.  This spring we planned our whole bike tour around the bluebonnets of Texas, and reveled in the seas of blue we found populating the Hill Country.  The petite Molly in Bluebonnetsspiky plants were as irresistible as they were attractive.  We never grew tired of seeing them.

That was in early April.  At the time, northern Minnesota was steeped in mud season, not even close to spring yet.  But that was actually to our benefit, because we were able to experience spring all over again when we returned home in mid-May.

Lupine near the North ShoreWith the arrival of June came the return of one of our favorite wildflowers, the lupine.  These tall spiny flowers grace the North Shore, mainly in shades of purple with occasional pink and white blossoms sprinkled in between.  It’s no accident that they bear a strong resemblance to the bluebonnets – those Texas beauties are actually of the “genus Lupinus” so belong to the same plant family.  What I find especially humorous is that in this case the Minnesota version far bigger than that of Texas.  While bluebonnets grow to be 12-24 inches tall, our lupine reach 1-4 feet high.  Not everything is bigger and better in Texas!

Molly with lupine in our yardAlthough technically considered an invasive species, and therefore shunned by purists, we chose to introduce lupine to the natural (read “wild”)  Lupine in our yardlandscape of our yard.  Rich painstakingly harvested seeds last fall and sowed them among our grasses.  This spring they actually came up, and the initial blossoms are now gracing the view from our windows.  The hope is that they will increase and multiply, some day yielding our own personal field of purple rocket flowers.  Whether large or small, Texas or Minnesota, we love those lupine.

 

 

Sunrise Celebration

No one would accuse Rich and me of being too conventional. Traditional, maybe, but for a couple who has spent months together on bicycles, think skiing a 50k race is fun and get excited about finding a yurt available for the night, doing things outside the norm is par for the course. So celebrating our 32nd wedding anniversary shortly after sunrise was a good fit.

The weather was perfect. It was one of those cool spring mornings with a clear blue sky and the promise of a quick warm-up as the sun gained height. Our destination was the lakefront in Two Harbors, starting with the lake side trail north of the lighthouse. The easy path followed the shoreline, which proved to be surprisingly varied. Unlike the smooth rocks on the edge of Duluth, this area looked more like the lava remains of a volcano. Dark bumpy rocks formed an otherworldly surface, pocked with puddles reflecting the deep blues the sky. The lake was uncharacteristically quiet, resulting in a peaceful ambiance. I knew we were right on the edge of town, but it felt like we were in the middle of the wilderness.

Two Harbors shoreline
Rounding the corner the harbor came into view.  Inland was the lighthouse that now hosts B&B guests.  What I hadn’t noticed before was the pilot house also on the grounds.  Two Harbors lighthouse B&BThe Two Harbors waterfront has the advantage of being a very compact package.  All within a short walk, we could enjoy the lighthouse at the end of the breakwater, two boats loading at the ore docks and the Edna G historic tugboat.  Each view was especially appealing in the morning sunlight.  And I couldn’t help but think what a great place it would be to bring the grandkids to explore.
Two Harbors lighthouse Rich and Two Harbors ore docksMolly and Edna G tugboatWhen we’d exhausted our fascination with the waterfront and found a few birds for Rich, we headed to the Vanilla Bean Restaurant for our finale.  It’s a spot we’ve come to enjoy since moving back to Duluth, and we deemed the changes made by the new owners to be good improvements.  I heartily enjoyed the French Toast made with cranberry wild rice bread.  We weren’t the only ones to give it a stamp of approval, as the place was packed on a weekday morning.

It was a full and pleasant morning and we were home by 10 am.  Who says an anniversary has to involve going out for dinner?  We much preferred our sunrise celebration.

Signs of Spring

What a difference a day makes. Leaving the Twin Cities brown and drab, hustling out to the car in 40ish degree temperatures, it was definitely Minnesota's version of early spring. It will be weeks before the trees have leaves and flowers open there, and much longer at home in Duluth. Heading south we covered not only miles but time, as the season advanced rapidly as we drove. The car's outdoor thermometer climbed to just above 80, and our senses were assaulted by heat as we stepped out of the car to refuel. Oh, it felt good.

Flowers in the yard

Our destination was my cousin's home in St. Louis where we spent a delightful day and a half visiting with family. Lawns were green, daffodils blooming, magnolias bursting out with their brilliant colors and fruit trees were covered in blossoms. Their yard alone gave testimony to the season that was rapidly unfolding before us.

It was a delight to go for long walks without jacket and jeans, to feel the warm breezes and the sun on my skin. We found Mama Canada Goose tending her nest while Dad lazily ignored us floating on the pond. Better yet, Mama decide it was time to rotate her position, giving us a rare view of her brood of eggs.

Mama Canada Goose
Turtles sunning themselves

I wasn't the only one enjoying the sun. In Buder Park, the turtles packed any surface that protruded from the water to catch some rays. And we even glimpsed some elk and bison hanging out in the trees. Rich was a happy camper after spotting and photographing a Red Headed Woodpecker – a new bird for him. That's a “Lifer” in bird watching lingo, I learned. I at least managed to get a glimpse of “Woody.”

It's hard to fathom that this is the termination point of our Spring North cycling tour. We have yet to reach the heart of Texas where we will begin. By the time we return to St. Louis with at least 1,500 cycling miles behind us, these first signs of spring will have progressed to the height of the season. It looks like our plans to follow the spring north are right on track.

 

An Aurora Hunter’s Wife

I’ve gotten used to living with an Aurora Hunter.  The constant monitoring of atmospheric indicators.  The blips and beeps that go off night and day from apps informing him of favorable conditions.  Flinging around mysterious terms like Kp index, solar wind speed, Bz and coronal mass ejection.  And the nocturnal trips out into the dark and cold.  All in search of Northern Lights.

It’s a lot like going to estate sales.  The ads sound really good, and you’re sure you’re going to find some real treasures.  But the reality is many of the sales are duds with nothing of interest.  Then just when you think you can’t stand to walk through one more crowded house crammed with odd stuff, you hit a gem – a true winner.  And all those fruitless trips were worth it just for this one.

I’ve gotten good at sleeping through most of this.  So good that two nights ago I had no idea that Rich’s alerts went off around 2:00am, pulling him out of bed and out into the night.  It wasn’t until shortly after my alarm went off at 6:00am that I heard him – returning.  And this time he was victorious.  “Oh Wow” were the first words out of his mouth.  The rays were dancing around the sky and he could even see the reds with his own eyes.  Pretty impressive, and I admit to feeling a twinge of envy.  To be fair, he did text me with a description and lot of exclamation points, but I slept through that bleep as well.

With promises of another night of auroral activity, I suited up in all my long underwear and winter gear to go along this time.  The word was to get out early, and it was good advice.  After driving an hour to a remote lake with a good view away from any city glow, we could already see faint green spires shooting into the sky even in the fading light of the sunset.  The darker the sky got, the more aurora lights we could see.  By 9:30 the lights were emanating from a full semi-circle around us, spreading well up into the sky.  The best part was when the most brilliant lights started on the right and unfurled above the horizon.  It was easy to see them advance across the sky above the lake, twisting and growing as they illuminated the night.

Rich Northern-Lights-1

Photo by Rich Hoeg

Naturally Rich was out with his camera, his passion being to capture the magic.  Thinking I had plenty of time for that later, I merely watched.  It was liberating to just take in the lights, to be able to look all around the sky at the various components of the light show and the interplay between the columns of light.  Later when it became clear that it was the peak of the display, I wished I had been prepared to photograph it.  But then again, I would have missed much of the drama.

Northern LightsBy the time I did set up my tripod and camera, the lights were dimming.  No longer did we have the deep green hues and movement.  But it was still beautiful.  Shortly after I took a few test shots, the color began to fade.  Surprisingly, the resulting photos had some merit.  It helps that the camera captures more color than I can see.

We lingered for about another hour, but the lights dwindled to a dull white glow.  Although the indicators were still quite positive, the reality was that the show had ended.  It never did reach the pinnacle that it did the previous night, but that’s the nature of the Northern Lights.  Nothing is ever guaranteed.

I know enough now that I will probably miss some of those spectacular displays. I just don’t have the persistence to act on every alert.  But Rich does, and if I get lucky in choosing when to accompany him I will likely see some pretty good Northern Lights, like last night.  Such is the life of an Aurora Hunter’s wife.

Instant Spring

At first it was hard to believe the thermometer.  And to overcome the months-long habit of layering on the outdoor clothes.  After two days of sweltering through my run with too many too heavy clothes, however, it was finally sinking in.  It really was warm out!

With temperatures well below zero just days ago, and beautiful cross-country ski conditions still a vivid memory, we can be forgiven our inability to grasp the sudden change in season.  But it didn’t take long for all of Duluth to head outdoors to enjoy the transformation.  And I love watching the parade.

The Lakewalk is virtually a highway of pedestrians.  Dog walkers, high school track teams, runners and baby strollers are in abundance in colorful garb.  Nobody seems to mind sloshing through the inevitable puddles or crossing the streams that flow over the pavement.  The faces I pass are all smiles.

Brighton Beach is populated with folks of all ages, taking in the rapidly shrinking ice formations on the lake.  Close to shore there are still remainders of the ice shards that were once piled so high, now surrounded by watery pools on top of the rapidly melting ice.  Further out, the ice is turning darker as it thins.  Plenty of ice houses attest to the fishermen’s belief that it is still viable.  But you’ll never find me venturing out there.

Brighton Beach melting iceOpen water is rapidly advancing toward Duluth.  While Lake Superior reached over 90% ice coverage just a few weeks ago, it opened up quickly with the wind and sun.  The edge of the ice field has now retreated all the way down to Brighton Beach.

Last week the thought of the Coast Guard ice breaker beginning its duty on Monday seemed outlandish.  By the time we saw her out plowing through the ice, it seemed perfectly natural.  One could already imagine spotting boats out on the horizon heading for the Aerial Bridge.

At 57 degrees this afternoon, I just North Shore ice melthad to hop on my bike and head up the North Shore.  I was hardly alone.  Cyclists were whizzing up and down the Scenic Highway, exchanging friendly waves and nodding.  Sure the shoulders were still full of gravel, but it was a small price to pay for the vast pleasure.  Like the rest of them, I too was grinning and loving it.

Of course, everyone knows this is Duluth.  Winter isn’t over until it’s over.  But I did happen to stop in a ski shop this afternoon, and was startled to find the wall of cross country skis barren and empty.  All put away to make room for bicycles and other summer gear.  It was instant spring in there too.