A Day with LBJ

Posted on April 13, 2015 by Molly

It was the perfect day for sightseeing, and we took full advantage of it. Having only 42 miles to get from Fredericksburg to Johnson City by back roads left us with plenty of time in the middle to explore the LBJ Ranch.

Even the ride to the entrance was enjoyable. Following the Pedernales River on Ranch Road 1 through beautiful green grounds, we could see the ranch across the way. With the sun shining down through a perfectly blue sky and temperatures still in the comfortable range, it was idyllic.

Our first stop was at Junction School, the one-room schoolhouse where LBJ first attended school and later signed the Elementary and Secondary Education Act with his former teacher at his side. From there we wound through the grounds and made our way over to the ranch house. Right outside was the Jetstar plane that LBJ flew from Washington directly to the ranch while President, which he dubbed Airforce One Half since it was so small.

Tickets to tour the “Texas White House” were a bargain at $3 and we had a wonderful guide who took us through the house. In addition to describing the rooms, he incorporated insights into LBJ's personality, likes, dislikes and habits. What made it all especially interesting to us was that it was history that was within our own lifetimes, and easily within our range of memory. The furnishings, clothing and accessories in the home were of an era that was entirely familiar. And we could relate it all to a President we remembered.

But what gave us the greatest shock was stepping into the dining room. There on the walls was the same mural we had in our home for 26 years! In this case it was wall paper that featured a tranquil domestic scene of a bridge with a village down below and a mountain in the distance, repeated all around the room. In our house, it was a painting done on a single wall by the former owner of the house, which we preserved for all those years. We'd always thought it was an original design, yet it must have been copied from this same wall paper pattern! Little did we know we had this in common with LBJ.

We took our time viewing the additional buildings and exhibits before finally moving along. The weather had heated up by then and we arrived in Johnson City very ready for our afternoon DQ cones. Our motel had beautiful grounds which included a very nice small pool. Taking a cool dip after cycling felt heavenly. I followed that with hanging out in the lovely gazebo surrounded by roses. It was a wonderful continuation of the day.

It was still warm when we walked home from dinner. The sun was low in the sky, casting its golden hour glow on a huge expanse of wildflowers. I wasn't alone in stopping to take photos. It appeared to be very popular with the locals. Having learned how much he treasured his ranch land and his love for National Parks, it seemed a fitting finale to our day with LBJ.

Hill Country Day Tripping

Posted on April 12, 2015 by Molly

With the Texas Hill Country being one of our primary destinations on this trip, we decided to make Fredericksburg our home base and stay three nights there. Normally, we plan our accomodations only a day or two ahead of time, but with the bluebonnets at their height we discovered that rooms were booking up quickly, particularly over the weekend. Rich nabbed reservations in one of the few remaining motels with space. While that could have been a risky proposition, luck was with us and the very new managers at the modest Miller Inn put us in the newly renovated “Lone Star Suite.” It felt good to unpack our panniers and settle in for a spell.

The weather forecast for our stay was not the greatest. Clouds and thunderstorms dominated the days, and it made planning a bit iffy, but fortunately the worst we got was some heavy mist. And we even saw a bit of sun. Evenings were mostly delightful, with comfortable temperatures and good opportunities to sit outside and enjoy some local music.

Mornings found us at the Java Ranch. It was a treat to be able to take the time for a leisurely coffee and breakfast before starting our days. It seemed to be popular with cyclists, as we met a group of folks from Minnesota and an itinerant biking enthusiast there both mornings. I rather liked the local cowboy.

In between we did our day trips with the luxury of leaving our gear behind. Our first adventure was to visit Luckenback. Little more than a collection of old time cowboy buildings and the site of many an informal music gathering, it is normally a quiet sleepy place. Not so when we visited! It was the day of their annual half-marathon. Not only did we cycle alongside the stream of runners heading for Luckenbach, but the place was overrun with fit, sweaty people and the paraphernalia that comes with a major sporting event. It wasn't your typical Luckenbach, but did make for a fun atmosphere. It also meant that there was a band playing in the Dance Hall at 10 in the morning, and we marveled at plenty of runners with enough energy left to do the Texas Two Step!

It was no big surprise that on day 2 Rich wanted a rest day, but I didn't. So we each pursued our own desires. Rich indulged his love of history by going to the National Museum of the Pacific War.

I headed out on a route recommended by the local bike shop, which turned out to be a real gem. And it taught me a lot about the Hill Country. Prior to arriving, I wasn't sure just what to expect. All I knew was that it was where the wildflowers were at their best. With the term “hill” in the name, I didn't know whether we'd be scaling big peaks or rolling over gentle slopes. As it turns out, the area has moderate hills and some respectable climbs. It can definitely deliver a challenge for cyclists, but it's all very doable – especially when not laden with gear. Today's ride was all on small roads with no lines or markings, and no traffic. The only group of cars I saw was about a dozen little sport cars out for a collective spin. I wound through ranch grazing land with loads of trees and vistas that displayed more of the same. It was distinctly quiet and the only interruptions in my ride were the frequent cattle grates I had to cross. Interestingly, wildflowers were not much in evidence. There was a blanket of bluebonnets just where I'd been told I would find them. But otherwise, the blooms seemed to be concentrated more north and east of my route. I'll admit I enjoyed cycling at my own speed and the freedom to pile up the miles as I chose. And I was relieved to complete my 40-mile circuit with no flat tires or rain storms.

Day Trips: Red = both of us, Orange = Molly

We've done well by Fredericksburg. It's been nice to be in a larger town where we could utilize the excellent Bicycle Works shop and enjoy some nicer restaurants. Now it's time to move on from day tripping to daily trips again.

Bluebonnet Perfection

Posted on April 11, 2015 by Molly

Progress to date: 5 days, 230 miles

This was to be bluebonnet day. Starting in Llano, we were at the gateway to the Hill Country and headed for Fredericksburg at its core. We'd seen wildflowers along the roadsides already, but now we were ready for the big time.

Of course all the locals had plenty of advice. The one thing they all recommended was the Willow City Loop. It is THE place to see bluebonnets, we were told. Since it was just off our intended route, we were all for it. We were also informed that our timing was perfect – the bluebonnets were at their peak. Not only that, but it was the best display in years. I was excited. This is what we'd come for.

The morning dawned dark and gloomy, with storms in the area. Striking out at an early hour, we felt a few sprinkles and cycled through areas that clearly had some recent rain. It didn't feel like the best day to be viewing wildflowers. But we pressed onward, willing the skies to lighten.

The shoulder on the road had diminished to a narrow crumbly strip, and even on the 2-lane road the speed limit was 70 mph. So we were eager for the opportunity to divert into a smaller road. Before we did, we found a couple of buddies – two Texas Longhorns enjoying the bluebonnets as well. They didn't seem too bothered by our presence and being intent on taking their picture.

Willow City Loop turned out to be a small quiet road, barely wide enough for two way traffic. The damp weather became an advantage, as it discouraged other sightseers from showing up and we had the road largely to ourselves. We were soon enthralled. For 13 miles the road wound through private land that was a haven for wildflowers. Not only were there bluebonnets, but a whole host of varieties of wildflowers which dominated the landscape. Sometimes they only lined the roadway. Other times they formed blankets of color that reached far back into the trees or covered whole fields with blue, white or red.

Between each landowner, there were cattle grates in the road. While the frequent interruptions were little problem for the cars, walking over them with our bikes proved to be quite a challenge!

The road curved, rose and fell and there were flowers to be seen at every twist and turn. The few cars that were there barely moved any faster than we did. Photo stops were frequent. The best part of all was being able to lolligag and gawk without any fear of traffic. And it was so quiet.

Our progress was luxuriously slow, and as time went on the weather steadily improved. As the day got brighter and dryer, the number of cars increased. It made us glad for the solitude we had on the bulk of the loop. It was definitely the best display of wildflowers we could imagine. I think pictures tell it the best.

Exiting from the loop, we were able to travel the remaining distance to Fredericksburg via other back roads. While the bluebonnets were not as much in evidence, the sun came out and for a change we had the wind at our backs. We concluded our day with dinner while listening to a local singer/guitar player on an outdoor patio in town. The perfect ending to our bluebonnet day.

Cycling Plan B

Posted on April 8, 2015 by Molly

What's the best way to shorten a cycling route? By lengthening it via a detour, of course! Since towns are far apart in Texa with literally no services in between, our options for daily destinations are limited. And today's new target was only 20 miles away – unacceptably short in my book. So I devised a solution that made us both happy, and resulted in a great day on the road.

Instead of heading straight to Comanche, we first rode to De Leon. That delivered two immediate benefits – it got us off the busy highway we'd been traveling, and it gave us a respite from the wind as it became a cross-wind while we went west. It was very pleasant cycling through the countryside flanked by ranches, farms, cows, horses and a donkey. Rich was buoyed by the easier travel and day 2 was off to a great start.

I'd scoped out a couple of places for breakfast in De Leon, and we indulged in our favorite routine of getting some miles under our belt before relaxing over a good meal. The Two or More Coffeehouse turned out to be a delightful place that served up a bountiful breakfast for Rich and satisfied my latte cravings along with good fresh fare. All with good ol' country music in the background.

Inevitably, we then turned south to face the wind once again. But continuing on a smaller road helped us cope better. The landscape was pastoral and green – probably the only time of the year that it is so lush. And the promised Texas wildflowers were thriving. The purple, pink, yellow, white and blue hues dotted the roadside continuously, and for the first time we saw a whole field ablaze with yellow flowers. Naturally, we scouted out the famous bluebonnets, and took time out to enjoy them along the way. Oh, and we did check for rattlesnakes before settling in among the blossoms – we were well warned about that.

With a shortened itinerary, we reached Comanche by early afternoon. It was fortunate for us that the sun remained behind clouds most of the morning, as our arms and legs were already a rosy shade of pink. It also helped keep the temperature down to a tolerable level.

A quiet afternoon to relax and dinner at a local Mexican restaurant completed our day. I'll admit that I prefer the full days of cycling to these abbreviated versions. Hopefully the wind will abate somewhat, and Rich will acclimate to the heat and the routine so we can we return to our full schedule soon. But for now Plan B it is.

Intro to Texas Cycling

Posted on April 7, 2015 by Molly

Finally, Day 1 of our Spring North Cycling Tour! It all started well enough. We enjoyed a bountiful B&B worthy breakfast prepared by Phillis and Bill, easily loaded up our bikes, and headed on our way with a royal send off. The weather was cloudy and mid-60s, which was actually quite good biking weather. We couldn't help but be in good spirits. There's nothing like beginning a trip.

The first snafu came just 9.5 miles into the ride when my front tire went totally flat. The culprit turned out to be a decent sized shard of glass. Although inconvenient, it was better to know we'd found the cause, and it wasn't an equipment malfunction. And I felt very fortunate to have my own personal mechanic on the trip with me.

Shortly afterwards we reached Granbury and turned to the southwest which was our main direction for the day. By that time the wind had come up and was now gusting fiercely, right in our faces. It was a battle just to make headway, and to add to the difficulty, the terrain rolled continually. Up and down we went, pedaling just as hard on the downhills as we did going up. The miles crawled by, but as a compensating factor the clouds cleared providing us with a nice sunny afternoon. That would have been lovely, had the temperature not risen into the 80s. For two Minnesotans who had not seen much over 50 yet this spring, it felt mighty hot out there.

Now despite these challenges, I'm happy to report that my limited cycling and abundant running stood me in good stead and I felt up to the task. Rich, on the other hand, was struggling. The ski season, which is his passion, just didn't pan out this year and his training suffered. Today he was paying the price. We spent a lot of time sitting under shade trees, or lying in the grass so he could recover. I can't say I minded that too much – the sensation was quite pleasant. What was worse was continually losing him in my rear view mirror.

We both set our sights on reaching Stephenville, and very nearly stopped there for the day. In hindsight we really should have. Pressing on to Dublin wasn't the wisest choice, but neither of us is very good at giving in. And so Rich soldiered on. Slowly completing the 55 miles for the day. It turned out to be our longest day in the saddle for any trip yet.

With strong headwinds predicted to continue for the rest of the week, we have decided to exercise the flexibility clause in our plans. The goal to reach the Hill Country by Thursday is absolutely arbitrary. So we've already revised that to Friday and altered our mileages to help ease Rich into this a little more slowly. And as a concession to the wind. After this intro, we knew this chapter needed a bit of a rewrite.

Texas Hospitality

Posted on April 5, 2015 by Molly

Rich, Bill and Phillis at the Flying Fish

Although my brother, Bill, is a transplant in Texas, he and his wife Phillis have provided a big Texas welcome for the final weekend leading up to our Spring North cycling tour. Our first taste – literally – was en route home from the train station. Being Good Friday and all, they took us to the Flying Fish restaurant in Forth Worth for lunch. They claimed not to know that it had been dubbed “Lent Central” but that seems highly suspicious. Regardless, we enjoyed the local fish delicacies and an outdoor meal.

Our next culinary delight came after a long drive in the countryside outside of Granbury. We enjoyed the rolling hills, trees, wildflowers and greenery along the way and eventually arrived at the Loco Coyote. Situated in a pasture, the long low-slung building was rustic with all the appeal of a cowboy hangout. We chose the open air room, and once again were treated to family-style seating. That turned out to be the afternoon's best entertainment.

We shared our picnic table with three young men, all of whom were local high school football coaches. The cultural clash between Minnesotans and born-and-bred Texans devoted to the state's athletic pastime, fueled by Bill's insatiable appetite for telling jokes made for some memorable story telling and a lot of laughs. They regaled us with their stories of noodle fishing, and we battled back with tales of ice fishing. While the barbecue was delicious, it was the local flavor that made it memorable. We all left still chuckling.

Easter provided some good family time, a service at an old country church in the midst of being restored, a visit to the farm and a traditional ham dinner. Despite the cool temperatures, it was a warm holiday.

Lest we grow too fat and lazy before starting our cycling tour, we made sure not to neglect our bikes. The first task was to reassemble them following their Amtrak journey. Rich made quick work of that job while Bill and I supervised. We've made a few circuits around Pecan Plantation to make sure both we and the bikes were in good working order. Everything checked out, so it's all systems go for tomorrow's departure. A full week after leaving home, we are ready and eager to start cycling. And we're counting on finding more Texas hospitality along the way.

Becoming Amtrak Fans

Posted on April 4, 2015 by Molly

With storms looming in the area, I was glad not to be boarding a plane. Leaving on a train I had no worries about weather, nor did I care much about schedule. We had plenty of time to reach our destination and the flexibility to move about and relax as we traveled. But there are far more reasons to love Amtrak. For starters, they are cyclist-friendly. For a mere $10 each, we could check our bikes on the train and feel confident that they would be handled with care. Even having to box them up is fairly easy (ok, so Rich does all that for us), and rumor has it that Amtrak is adding roll-on baggage cars for bikes on their long haul routes soon.

For this trip we have an overnight journey from St. Louis to Dallas. We did learn from our last train ride that attempting to sleep sitting up is a foolish endeavor. So we booked a little sleeper this time. It's highly compact with two seats facing each other, but ingeniously designed to convert to a bed with a drop down bunk above – already made up with sheets and blankets. We can close the door and curtain and easily retreat to our own personal space.

What I didn't expect was the first class treatment that comes with the sleeper. We had a private waiting lounge to use before boarding, and were assisted to our compartment by a gracious conductor who continued to see to our needs throughout our travels. The dining car was just next door on our upper level, and all meals came included in our package. Even though we'd already had a delicious dinner before departing, we couldn't resist the opportunity to relax over a glass of wine and bite of salad as we departed St. Louis.

From the comfortable lounge car we were able to see barges traveling along the Mississippi River, their push boats lit up over the water.

I'd be lying if I said we got a great night's sleep. Rich heard the ubiquitous train whistle and above him I felt the jerky swaying of the train, but neither of us minded the unique nighttime interruptions. Just getting sleep and avoiding a stiff neck was a vast improvement over last time.

Venturing down the rail car I found full blown movie-style sleeping compartments. I even overheard a woman talking about their shower leaking out onto the floor. A shower? Really? I was happy enough to brush my teeth and clean up in the cramped communal bathroom. Our accomodations were luxurious enough for me.

Breakfast in the dining car was family style. The overhead announcement informed us we would be seated with strangers and leave with friends. We were game – meeting other folks traveling is always intriguing.

The morning's scenery changed to Texas countryside. Green pastures, leafy trees and beautiful purple blossoming trees passed by. The backside of small towns and the occasional glimpse down Main Street provided interest. Space, lots of it, everywhere. Two boys riding their bikes. That will be us soon.

We are already pouring over the Amtrak map, pondering our next train ride. No doubt it will involve bicycles at one end. We are rapidly becoming Amtrak cycling fans.

Signs of Spring

Posted on April 3, 2015 by Molly

What a difference a day makes. Leaving the Twin Cities brown and drab, hustling out to the car in 40ish degree temperatures, it was definitely Minnesota's version of early spring. It will be weeks before the trees have leaves and flowers open there, and much longer at home in Duluth. Heading south we covered not only miles but time, as the season advanced rapidly as we drove. The car's outdoor thermometer climbed to just above 80, and our senses were assaulted by heat as we stepped out of the car to refuel. Oh, it felt good.

Our destination was my cousin's home in St. Louis where we spent a delightful day and a half visiting with family. Lawns were green, daffodils blooming, magnolias bursting out with their brilliant colors and fruit trees were covered in blossoms. Their yard alone gave testimony to the season that was rapidly unfolding before us.

It was a delight to go for long walks without jacket and jeans, to feel the warm breezes and the sun on my skin. We found Mama Canada Goose tending her nest while Dad lazily ignored us floating on the pond. Better yet, Mama decide it was time to rotate her position, giving us a rare view of her brood of eggs.

I wasn't the only one enjoying the sun. In Buder Park, the turtles packed any surface that protruded from the water to catch some rays. And we even glimpsed some elk and bison hanging out in the trees. Rich was a happy camper after spotting and photographing a Red Headed Woodpecker – a new bird for him. That's a “Lifer” in bird watching lingo, I learned. I at least managed to get a glimpse of “Woody.”

It's hard to fathom that this is the termination point of our Spring North cycling tour. We have yet to reach the heart of Texas where we will begin. By the time we return to St. Louis with at least 1,500 cycling miles behind us, these first signs of spring will have progressed to the height of the season. It looks like our plans to follow the spring north are right on track.

Spring Training

Posted on March 27, 2015 by Molly

It’s barely over a week away now. The Spring North Cycling Tour looms, and yet I’m still struggling to get time on my bike. So far I’ve logged a grand total of 157 miles. Normally, I do that week in, week out. And on tour that represents just 3 days of cycling.

We’ve never toured this early in the season before. Usually by the time we set out on a trip, we have had months of training behind us and it feels like a natural extension of our summer’s activity. And we are already well acclimated to the weather.

First bike ride of 2015 Not so this time. With temperatures bouncing between the 20’s and 40’s here in the Northland, I have yet to complete a ride without frozen toes. So when I look at the forecast for Johnson City TX, which we expect to reach within a few days of starting our trip, I find it hard to conceive of readings that climb into the upper 70’s and 80’s. I will be going on faith when I pack my short sleeve jerseys and leave behind my heavy layers. Intuitively I know I shouldn’t be needing them, but it sure is hard to let go at this stage.

Spring is a relative term. On the North Shore just having the ice recede is a victory, even if the snow still clings in the shadows and the wind off the lake rarely registers above the freezing mark. The thought of wildflowers blooming is still a foreign concept. But very appealing.

We have made a few adjustments to our gear for this season. To date, we’ve mostly traveled in late summer or fall with the benefit of remarkably dry weather. With the very real likelihood of spring showers, we’ve made a concession and added fenders to our bikes. I hated to mar the stark features of my bike with such mundane accessories, but ultimately decided that comfort ruled over style. Drier feet are worth it. We’ve also swapped out our down sleeping bags for ultra-light thinner models. Now I’m really counting on the warmer climes to moderate the night time temps.

There’s no doubt the start of this trip is going to be a shock to the system. The sudden accumulation of miles. A sharp spike in temperature. And a vast blossoming of color in our world. Despite our lack of training for all this, I’m sure I can take it. Bring on the Spring North Tour!

Cycling…in the Pink

Posted on March 15, 2015 by Molly

Every long distance cycling trip we take starts with a laundry list of detailed preparations. Route selection alone can take months. After all, half the fun is pondering the options and researching a variety of potential destinations. Once that is settled, a map is produced and we move on to checking out sightseeing, lodging options and local specialties. The final push includes gathering our gear, making sure everything is in tip top shape (including ourselves) and checking off each item on our packing list.

But we’re still not ready to go. The last essential piece is Marketing. What would a tour be without a distinctive name? a logo? and of course, matching jerseys? There’s no mistaking our mission when we’re out on the road, and that is no accident. Our shirts say it all.

This shameless bit of of self-promotion actually contributes a lot to the trip. Somehow our jerseys make us approachable. Just sporting a blatant advertisement for our journey invites questions, from the random query at a rest stop to swapping fascinating stories over breakfast in a café. We’ve even had folks ask how they can sign up for the tour!

This year the name came fairly quickly. Starting in the south we’re following the spread of the warm weather, hence Spring North. The logo was an obvious choice. Seeing the bluebonnets of Texas in bloom will be a highlight of this trip, so a blue flower won hands down. And the jerseys, well, let’s just say we picked an eye-catching color.

Now one might naturally assume we’d have blue jerseys to go with the theme. But this color maven complained that we’d done blue too many times already. I need some variety in my cycling apparel. Little did I know that when Rich mockingly said “how about pink?” that he was serious enough to carry it through.

I should have known better. Back when our son was on a Lego League team, they chose the name “Super Nerds in Pink.” Being a supportive coach who was anxious to motivate his team, Rich promised the boys that he’d let them spray paint his hair pink if they made it to the state tournament. Well, the boys delivered and Rich made good on his pledge. A precedent was set.

Today a package came – our custom jerseys had arrived. Tearing into the bag, we pulled out our prizes. Yes, they’re pink all right. We’d better like them, we ordered two each. Wear one, wash one – that means we can always be in uniform. There will be no missing us this year. We’ll be the folks cycling in the pink.

Superior Footprints

Life and the Outdoors in the Northland

Tag Archives: Spring North Cycling Tour

A Day with LBJ

Hill Country Day Tripping

Bluebonnet Perfection

Cycling Plan B

Intro to Texas Cycling

Texas Hospitality

Becoming Amtrak Fans

Signs of Spring

Spring Training

Cycling…in the Pink

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