Tag Archives: Travel

Intro to Texas Cycling

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Ready to start the tour

Finally, Day 1 of our Spring North Cycling Tour! It all started well enough. We enjoyed a bountiful B&B worthy breakfast prepared by Phillis and Bill, easily loaded up our bikes, and headed on our way with a royal send off. The weather was cloudy and mid-60s, which was actually quite good biking weather. We couldn't help but be in good spirits. There's nothing like beginning a trip.

The first snafu came just 9.5 miles into the ride when my front tire went totally flat. The culprit turned out to be a decent sized shard of glass. Although inconvenient, it was better to know we'd found the cause, and it wasn't an equipment malfunction. And I felt very fortunate to have my own personal mechanic on the trip with me.

Rich fixing my flat

Shortly afterwards we reached Granbury and turned to the southwest which was our main direction for the day. By that time the wind had come up and was now gusting fiercely, right in our faces. It was a battle just to make headway, and to add to the difficulty, the terrain rolled continually. Up and down we went, pedaling just as hard on the downhills as we did going up. The miles crawled by, but as a compensating factor the clouds cleared providing us with a nice sunny afternoon. That would have been lovely, had the temperature not risen into the 80s. For two Minnesotans who had not seen much over 50 yet this spring, it felt mighty hot out there.

A scenic rest spot

Now despite these challenges, I'm happy to report that my limited cycling and abundant running stood me in good stead and I felt up to the task. Rich, on the other hand, was struggling. The ski season, which is his passion, just didn't pan out this year and his training suffered. Today he was paying the price. We spent a lot of time sitting under shade trees, or lying in the grass so he could recover. I can't say I minded that too much – the sensation was quite pleasant. What was worse was continually losing him in my rear view mirror.

Reaching Dublin at last

We both set our sights on reaching Stephenville, and very nearly stopped there for the day. In hindsight we really should have. Pressing on to Dublin wasn't the wisest choice, but neither of us is very good at giving in. And so Rich soldiered on. Slowly completing the 55 miles for the day. It turned out to be our longest day in the saddle for any trip yet.

With strong headwinds predicted to continue for the rest of the week, we have decided to exercise the flexibility clause in our plans. The goal to reach the Hill Country by Thursday is absolutely arbitrary. So we've already revised that to Friday and altered our mileages to help ease Rich into this a little more slowly. And as a concession to the wind. After this intro, we knew this chapter needed a bit of a rewrite.

 

Texas Hospitality

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Rich, Bill and Phillis at the Flying Fish

Although my brother, Bill, is a transplant in Texas, he and his wife Phillis have provided a big Texas welcome for the final weekend leading up to our Spring North cycling tour. Our first taste – literally – was en route home from the train station. Being Good Friday and all, they took us to the Flying Fish restaurant in Forth Worth for lunch. They claimed not to know that it had been dubbed “Lent Central” but that seems highly suspicious. Regardless, we enjoyed the local fish delicacies and an outdoor meal.

Molly and Bill at Loco Coyote

Our next culinary delight came after a long drive in the countryside outside of Granbury. We enjoyed the rolling hills, trees, wildflowers and greenery along the way and eventually arrived at the Loco Coyote. Situated in a pasture, the long low-slung building was rustic with all the appeal of a cowboy hangout. We chose the open air room, and once again were treated to family-style seating. That turned out to be the afternoon's best entertainment.

Our table at Loco Coyote

We shared our picnic table with three young men, all of whom were local high school football coaches. The cultural clash between Minnesotans and born-and-bred Texans devoted to the state's athletic pastime, fueled by Bill's insatiable appetite for telling jokes made for some memorable story telling and a lot of laughs. They regaled us with their stories of noodle fishing, and we battled back with tales of ice fishing. While the barbecue was delicious, it was the local flavor that made it memorable. We all left still chuckling.

Easter provided some good family time, a service at an old country church in the midst of being restored, a visit to the farm and a traditional ham dinner. Despite the cool temperatures, it was a warm holiday.

Reassembling the bikes

Lest we grow too fat and lazy before starting our cycling tour, we made sure not to neglect our bikes. The first task was to reassemble them following their Amtrak journey. Rich made quick work of that job while Bill and I supervised. We've made a few circuits around Pecan Plantation to make sure both we and the bikes were in good working order. Everything checked out, so it's all systems go for tomorrow's departure. A full week after leaving home, we are ready and eager to start cycling. And we're counting on finding more Texas hospitality along the way.

 

Becoming Amtrak Fans

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Boarding Amtrak

With storms looming in the area, I was glad not to be boarding a plane. Leaving on a train I had no worries about weather, nor did I care much about schedule. We had plenty of time to reach our destination and the flexibility to move about and relax as we traveled. But there are far more reasons to love Amtrak. For starters, they are cyclist-friendly. For a mere $10 each, we could check our bikes on the train and feel confident that they would be handled with care. Even having to box them up is fairly easy (ok, so Rich does all that for us), and rumor has it that Amtrak is adding roll-on baggage cars for bikes on their long haul routes soon.

Rich in our sleeper

For this trip we have an overnight journey from St. Louis to Dallas. We did learn from our last train ride that attempting to sleep sitting up is a foolish endeavor. So we booked a little sleeper this time. It's highly compact with two seats facing each other, but ingeniously designed to convert to a bed with a drop down bunk above – already made up with sheets and blankets. We can close the door and curtain and easily retreat to our own personal space.

Amtrak dining car

What I didn't expect was the first class treatment that comes with the sleeper. We had a private waiting lounge to use before boarding, and were assisted to our compartment by a gracious conductor who continued to see to our needs throughout our travels. The dining car was just next door on our upper level, and all meals came included in our package. Even though we'd already had a delicious dinner before departing, we couldn't resist the opportunity to relax over a glass of wine and bite of salad as we departed St. Louis.

From the comfortable lounge car we were able to see barges traveling along the Mississippi River, their push boats lit up over the water.

Molly in the sleeper

I'd be lying if I said we got a great night's sleep. Rich heard the ubiquitous train whistle and above him I felt the jerky swaying of the train, but neither of us minded the unique nighttime interruptions. Just getting sleep and avoiding a stiff neck was a vast improvement over last time.

Venturing down the rail car I found full blown movie-style sleeping compartments. I even overheard a woman talking about their shower leaking out onto the floor. A shower? Really? I was happy enough to brush my teeth and clean up in the cramped communal bathroom. Our accomodations were luxurious enough for me.

Breakfast in the dining car was family style. The overhead announcement informed us we would be seated with strangers and leave with friends. We were game – meeting other folks traveling is always intriguing.

The morning's scenery changed to Texas countryside. Green pastures, leafy trees and beautiful purple blossoming trees passed by. The backside of small towns and the occasional glimpse down Main Street provided interest. Space, lots of it, everywhere. Two boys riding their bikes. That will be us soon.

We are already pouring over the Amtrak map, pondering our next train ride. No doubt it will involve bicycles at one end. We are rapidly becoming Amtrak cycling fans.

 

Glaciers Cycling Tour Stats

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I can't help it, I'm a numbers person. Being a math major and spending my career in IT, my natural inclination to analyze things is enhanced by years of training. So in looking back on our Glaciers to the Sea cycling tour, I just have to break it down by the numbers.

First the basics:

  • 1,408 miles cycled
  • 30 total days
  • 27 days cycling

Our cycling tours are focused on enjoying the ride, not racking up the miles each day. We planned to do roughly 50-55 miles a day, and we came pretty close. This allows us to take a mid-morning break for either our first or second breakfast, see sights along the way and finish cycling around 3:30 in the afternoon. We enjoy having some downtime at the end of the day.

  • 52 miles/day for days cycling
  • 47 miles/day including rest days

We aren't very good at taking rest days. The only days we stayed off our bikes on this trip were those spent visiting family and friends, which we intended to serve that dual purpose. Our first rest days were 18 days into the trip when we visited Rich's brother Stewart and his wife Kathy in Eugene for 2 days. Our third was day 28 which we spent with my friend, Anne, in Olympia.

Weather-wise this trip was fantastic. We had day after day of amazingly beautiful weather. Temperatures were nippy in the mornings, but they almost always rose to warm and sometimes downright hot during the day. I loved it!

  • 18 clear sunny days
  • 5 partly cloudy days
  • 4 overcast days
  • 3 rainy days

Wind is a huge factor in cycling. A headwind can take miles off our speed. We knew that we were cycling against the prevailing winds, going west and then north up the coast. But we beat all the odds. It was a cyclist's dream.

  • 28 days with tailwinds or no wind
  • 2 days with headwinds (and we frequently hid from it while climbing the hilly Columbia River Gorge)

One of our goals was to spend less than 50% of our nights in motels. Thanks to the boost from bunking in with family and friends, we exceeded this target for our 30 nights. I'd still like to up the amount of camping we do, but I won't complain about having a few creature comforts.

  • 4 nights camping
  • 5 nights with family and friends
  • 8 nights in Warm Showers homes
  • 13 nights in motels

Our Specialized Touring bikes are trusty steeds indeed. We have had a great track record for avoiding serious breakdowns on all of our trips, and this one was no exception. The only equipment failure that would have been a show stopper happened within range of one of the few large towns we visited.

  • 5 flat tires/new inner tubes (Rich) – roadside repairs, we carry 8
  • 2 tire replacements (Rich) – roadside repairs, we carry 1 and bought another right away
  • 1 wheel/rim tear at the spoke (Rich) – slow ride and cab back to Seattle, bike shop visit required
  • 2 bolts lost from rear pannier rack (Molly) – replaced when discovered, bought extra bolts
  • 1 rear view mirror scratched (Molly) – replaced at a bike shop when convenient

While I don't have hard facts on this one, there is no doubt that lattes outnumbered ice creams on this trip. Little drive-through coffee huts abounded in even the smallest of towns, and good coffee shops were also in abundance. My caffeine needs rarely went unattended. Yet humble ice cream shops were at a premium. In fact, we didn't find a single truly Mom and Pop ice cream stand. We managed to fill in with ice cream offerings in other establishments, but there was truly a deficiency in dairy delights.

Yes, there is only one conclusion. It was a most successful and enjoyable trip. No matter how I slice and dice it, the numerical score for this cycling tour is 100%+.

 

 

Riding the Rails

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“All Aboard!” Yes, they really do say it. This was the first station where we were allowed to get off the train and stretch our legs. We were surprised at how warm it was outside, despite it being early evening. Parents chased little kids around to get the wiggles out. Some used the stop for a nicotine hit. Others like us just took advantage of the chance to get some fresh air. We suspected that the conductor got a kick out of delivering his time honored sing-songy signal, but he meant business. Within minutes we were rolling again.

We were on Amtrak's Empire Builder. The final leg to complete our circle back to the car was a train ride from Seattle to Whitefish, Montana. Amtrak's bicycle-friendly luggage policy made our one-way bike tour feasible, as well as providing an enjoyable journey. It became part of the overall experience.

At only $10 apiece to check our bikes, Amtrak was a bargain. It did, however, require some preparation. Stephanie was kind enough to scour the local bike shops to secure boxes ahead of time for us. Guided by Scott's expertise, Rich disassembled and packed each bike securely for the trip. With that, it was a no-hassle check-in at Amtrak. Next year it will get even better. Amtrak has committed to providing new roll-on baggage cars for bikes on all their long-haul trains.

The east-bound trip leaves in the early afternoon, which allowed plenty of daylight to see our way through the Cascade Mountains. With bright sunshine illuminating the fall colors, it was worth watching the scenery roll by. In contrast to airlines, the seats were well spaced and included footrests, and were very comfortable for sitting. Not so much for sleeping. Still, it was a smooth ride and nice to leave the driving and navigating to someone else for the duration.

Arriving in Whitefish at 5:30am, we felt fortunate to be only an hour late. The west-bound train was already nine hours overdue. The oil boom in North Dakota has wreaked havoc with Amtrak's schedules, taking priority on the tracks.

Our bikes arrived in perfect condition and Rich made quick work of putting them back together. Already the loaded bike felt foreign under me as we set off for the nearest café. Although folks still saw us as touring cyclists, we had to admit the sad truth that we would cycle only four miles before surrendering the bikes to the car. But still it was nice to pretend. Our riding is taking a different form these days.

 

Seattle by Foot

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Our bikes were safely stashed in the basement. With the tour officially completed, and the steep hills throughout Seattle, I felt justified in trading my cycling shoes for my only other pair of footwear. My Keens sandals just became walking shoes.

Our good weather fortune followed us to Seattle, gracing us with clear blue skies and days reaching the 70s. I shuddered to think that the temperatures back home were stuck in the 40s as I enjoyed two days of lovely warm sunshine.

Our cycling friends, Stephanie and Scott, took us under their wing and pampered us with good company, excellent food and welcoming surroundings. We immediately agreed to their proposal to attend the pancake breakfast at the Swedish Institute. Filling ourselves on light rolled pancakes smothered in lingonberries to the accompaniment of accordion music, we were fascinated by the stories of a young family that had just returned from a year traveling around the world. Our mere month on the road paled in comparison.

We'd been in Seattle several times before, but that still left plenty to explore. The eclectic area of Freemont was just across the bridge, and provided a fun place to walk. It was also a convenient location to meet a friend for coffee, where I marveled at the artistic prowess of the local baristas. Seattle is a coffee Mecca.

Rich was content to adhere to having a rest day, but that term is not part of my vocabulary. So I ventured out on my own walking tour. I thoroughly enjoyed the Queen Anne area where our friends live. It was alive with ethnic restaurants, boutiques, outdoor cafés and of course coffee shops which attracted all manner of customers. People watching at its best.

I made my way down to Seattle Center, which I'd actually never seen before. It was pulsing with activity, largely populated by families. The sunny day seemed to bring out the joy in everyone, particularly those who were playing tag with the ever-changing patterns of water in the huge fountain. And of course, the Space Needle presided over everything.

It was inevitable that I would make my way to Pike Place Market. A lover of farmers' markets, I can't resist the sights, sounds and smells of the vendor displays vying for attention in that vibrant space. The ethnic shops surrounding the market are also a draw, offering so many options to tempt the palate and specialty goods to meet any niche need. Pike Place has always been a favorite of mine.

While my bike rested, my feet got a workout. And I covered just a little more of Seattle's bounty of offerings. It was a good trade off.

 

The Last Few Miles

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At the Finish: 30 days, 1,408 miles

All good things must come to an end. Including our Glaciers to the Sea cycling tour. Interestingly enough, there seems to be a pattern to the final day of our long cycling trips. Last year, we completed the Grand Gaspé Tour with a 9 mile day. This year we topped that with cycling 11 miles to reach the finish line. And we added a bit of a twist to our finale.

After a hilly ride yesterday and a particularly steep incline to reach our host home, we were relieved to coast downhill a short three miles to the waterfront in Bremerton. In that distance, we passed the 1,400 mile mark for our trip! At the water's edge we took time to enjoy the Harborside Fountain Park. It is a unique tribute to the US submarine forces, with fountains that look like the fantail of a submarine. We thought they were cool enough with the water cascading down them, but soon found that they spouted out of the tops as well.

Our real purpose, however, was to take the ferry over to Seattle. Being cyclists afforded us the privilege of boarding first. We quickly headed out to the bow of the boat where we could take in the sights. The initial passageways were narrow and scenic, and it was comfortable outside watching the world slide by. Once we reached the larger bay it became windier and chillier, and we retreated behind windows where it was more comfortable.

Docking in Seattle, we were met by our friends Stephanie and Scott. They arrived on bicycle, and we cycled the final 8 miles of our trip together. It was a pleasure to have someone else to lead the way, and most of it was on bike trails. With no hills.

Arriving at their house meant the end of the trip. It should have felt like a momentous moment. But somehow it was all lost on me. I didn't feel a sense of accomplishment, relief or celebration as I dismounted my bike. It felt like any other time I got off my bike and removed my panniers for the day. We were already deep in conversation with Stephanie and Scott and eager to see their new house. After all, they had been our Warm Showers guests last summer as they cycled their way across the country. So it felt a natural and fitting finish to our ride.

We left the Glaciers a month ago, and made it to the Sea. All our miles are behind us. At least for now.

 

Circling the Sound

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I'd never realized before just how extensive and meandering Puget Sound is. It's long and sinewy fingers stretch well inland, creating endless miles of coastline. We enjoyed exploring quite a few of them.

Our first introduction was in Olympia. We had the luxury of a rest day there spent with my good friend, Anne, who shared her favorite outdoor haunts with us. Blessed with sunny calm weather, we happily traded our bikes for walking and enjoying nature.

Exploring the restored delta on the boardwalk at the Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge.

Lunch and a colorful eyeful at the Olympia Farmers' Market

Walking the beach at Priest Point Park

Beautiful wooded trails in Priest Point Park

We were advised that the best bicycle route into Seattle was not the direct one. It took a full day of cycling to circle around to Bremerton, on the western side of the Sound. But it was far more pleasant and less stressful then trying to navigate through a busy metropolitan area. Every time we had a scenic view of water, it turned out to be another bit of the Sound. The sight varied greatly depending on the status of the tide and the nature of the shoreline. It could never be tiresome.

Stopping for a mid-day break on the fishing pier in Allyn

Our Warm Showers hosts in Bremerton had a beautiful home with a wonderful view of Kitsap Lake. Although not part of the Sound, its waters eventually drain there. The unseasonably warm weather provided a fine opportunity to hang out on the deck to enjoy the view, including the Cascade Mountains in the distance.

Lake Kitsap and the Cascade Mountains

A beautiful sunset over the lake

Tomorrow we will complete our circuit of Puget Sound, as well as our trip. Since we didn't do a circle route this time, let's just say we are about to come full cycle.

 

Counting Down

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No matter how long the trip, when we get near the end I am reluctant to let go. We have our daily cycling down to a well tuned routine, and it feels good. My body is strong and I love pressing through each day's miles. The simplicity of life on the road appeals to me. And I admit that I enjoy being able to eat the large quantities of food to takes to fuel all that cycling.

Even after coming through a full day of rain, I want to keep going. The cold, wet clammy clothes are already a distant memory, as is the damp smell as we aired out the ziplock bags holding all our belongings in the motel room.

Setting off this morning amidst the remaining puddles, the fog was just lifting and we had no idea that we'd spend the entire day under clear blue skies and sunshine. I'm going to miss those miracles of nature that mean so much in the life of a touring cyclist.

It's time to start savoring the lasts. This is the last night we stay in a motel. Our last Warm Showers hosts. The last of my peanutbutter, as its tube grows thin. The last of the countryside before heading into the greater Seattle area. The last time we wash our clothes in the sink. Okay, so maybe “savor” doesn't apply to them all.

For weeks, I've marveled at all the little drive-up espresso booths we see everywhere, even in the smallest of towns. I've been itching to ride through one on my bike. With time dwindling, I took the opportunity today. “A medium skim latte, please.” An excellent morning caffeine fix.

I said goodbye to the coast today. How I've enjoyed it's views, it's waves, it's rocky coastline and beaches. I love cycling along water. It must come from growing up on Lake Superior. Turning inland was a clear sign of reaching the end.

Progress to date: 26 days, 1,293 miles

We have almost 1,300 miles behind us, and just two full days of cycling left to go. It's no coincidence that this evening's dinner conversation focused on ideas and options for our next big cycling trip. It's easier to let go knowing there are more destinations in store for us. Just barely. It's better than focusing on the countdown.