Category Archives: Keeping Fit

Exercise and Silent Sports

Completing the San Juan Islands Trifecta

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Only three of the San Juan Islands have enough roads to make it work biking. After covering Orcas Island and Lopez Island in the last two years, Erik and I set out to conquer the third, San Juan Island. This year we brought along an entourage – Rich, Katie and baby Saige came and we made a weekend of it staying in a VRBO cottage surrounded by prolific gardens with flowers, vegetables and fruit trees. Our hostess is also an artist. Her colorful paintings covered the walls of our cottage, and we were able to peer into her studio adjacent to the pond in the back yard. Such delightful surroundings!

The day started out with better than expected weather – not too cold, little wind and a bit of sunshine. We headed north first to Roche Harbor which is home to an elegant resort, posh little shops, and yachts galore in the harbor. We coasted down the steep road to get closer to the shore and ogle the immaculate landscaping and fancy yachts and sailboats.

A quiet narrow loop road beckoned on the other side of town so we followed it around a point. Fancy condos and houses perched on the shore, interspersed with stretches of tall woods. Those little lanes would be my favorite rides throughout the day.

Moving down the west side of the island we had plenty of water views, and one very steep hill. It snuck up on us, its pitch increasing as we progressed. As I pumped up that monster I knew I’d hit my limit when I resorted to sashaying back and forth across the lane to make it to the top! Fortunately, it proved to be the worst we encountered all day. Midway down that coast we stopped to admire the view and could see a long thick bank of fog stretching out diagonally across the water. We watched a sailboat heading toward it, then thought better of the idea and turned around. It obliterated everything behind it, and we knew for sure we would soon enter it ourselves.

Turning the corner and heading east, we found another smaller road that led to False Bay Tidelands. A sign informed us that the big round bay was home to a variety of tidal species and was a protected area. We weren’t sure if the water was always that low, or if it was low tide. But the fog was definitely rolling in.

Sure enough, at the next scenic spot we were able to admire the sign that labeled all the islands we could see from there, but in reality our view was just a wall of fog!

We continued on to the very tip of the island called Cattle Point. Beyond the interpretive area another small lane led us to Fish Creek, a narrow natural harbor with a small marina on the other side of the point. It was clear of fog, and we deemed it a good lunch spot. Settling down on a rocky ledge we had a nice view of the dock, boats and houses on the opposite side. It was quiet and unassuming with a bit of activity – folks going to or from their boats, one couple taking out their sailboat, and some movement across the way where the island homes had their own private docks. Under those circumstances, our sandwiches and fruit tasted exceptionally good.

Our trip out to the point had felt like miles and miles of downhill, and knowing we had to retrace that stretch we both secretly dreaded the prospect of all that uphill work. However, it proved to be so gradual that we pedaled up it almost without realizing it!

We were heading up the east side of the island back towards Friday Harbor, which is the island’s only town and the location of the ferry landing, when Erik realized my back tire was decidedly low. Pumping it back up proved to be a futile solution, so we sought a parking lot on the outskirts of town where Erik changed the tire. (I’m always very thankful to bike with someone more skilled at bike maintenance than I am!) We thought it was a most fortuitous spot when we turned in at the sign for the San Juan Bakery, only to be disappointed to learn it was closed on weekends. Sigh.

Back on the road, we chose another quiet lane called Pear Point Road which wound around a peninsula just outside Friday Harbor. It provided a bit of fun and whimsy when we stopped to admire a cycling sculpture!

Entering town, the idea of a treat lingered. Deciding that it was too cold for ice cream, and finding bakeries closed for the day, we headed to a coffee shop opposite the marina. Sipping our hot brews and savoring a raspberry pastry, we watched the tour boats departing for whale watching tours, float planes taking off and landing at regular intervals, and ferries coming and going.

Our final stretch took us up the remainder of the northern side of the island to Egg Lake Lane and our cottage. Just as we reached the driveway, raindrops began to fall which quickly became serious. We made it back just in time! In all, we cycled over 53 miles with 3,744 ft of elevation. Not bad for a day’s outing!

There was just enough time to relax and share our stories before we all headed out for a celebratory dinner at a restaurant on the harbor.

We rounded out the weekend with a visit to Lime Kiln Point Lighthouse where we took a path along the shore to the tower. It opened shortly after we got there, and we were able to go up the tower! Rich was below photographing black oystercatchers, and captured us out on the catwalk. As lighthouse keepers ourselves, we especially enjoyed seeing a very different lighthouse and talking to the volunteer there. That park is known to be a good viewpoint for viewing orca whales, but none made an appearance during our visit.

With the ferry ride back to Seattle, we successfully closed the chapter on our series of San Juan Island cycling tours. Our next job is to come up with a new cycling challenge. However, it’s going to be hard to beat this trifecta!

What a difference a year makes

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When I registered for last year’s Grandma’s Half Marathon, I had no idea I would be facing major surgery, learn I had ovarian cancer and face 16 weeks of chemotherapy. I was fortunate to stay active throughout it all by going for increasingly longer walks with supportive family members and friends by my side. So even though the half marathon was only one week after I finished chemo, my daughter Karen and I stood in the starting chute, intent on walking the whole way.

It had to be one of the most emotional and uplifting days of my whole cancer journey. At Karen’s suggestion, we wore T-shirts saying “Straight Outta Chemo” and “I wear teal for my mom” and on the back they said “Usually we run. This year we FIGHT (cancer).” All along the way people commented on them, sharing their own stories, and lending their support. On the sidelines, Rich and all of Karen’s family surprised me with matching shirts that said “Support Squad,” waving Marathon Monkey and showing up every few miles. We powered through the rain under umbrellas and grinned all the way to the finish line. We were 15th from last, but it was far more thrilling than running a PR!

In the year since, I have worked my way back to fitness and reclaimed most of my favorite activities – walking, cycling, hiking, lap swimming, kayaking, cross country skiing, and snowshoeing. But running eluded me. I worked hard with my favorite physical therapist who has seen me through multiple running injuries, with exercises to rebuild my abdominal muscles (which he said were like “mush” after surgery). He gave me a plan for easing back into running, with strict orders not to start before 9-10 months after my surgery. But once I reached that mark, I still was not ready.

While on my long walks, I had to convince myself to take a few running steps. And every time I did I stopped abruptly. I just didn’t like it. My body seemed to rebel, and tell me it just wasn’t ready. Perhaps it was the neuropathy in my feet caused by chemo that objected to the bouncing and leaping from foot to foot. It didn’t feel right. And for once I listened. I continued to refrain for months, and honestly thought my running days might be behind me. What was most surprising was that I was okay with that. I just thought it was part of my new normal.

Until one day. I went on a walk and ventured farther than I’d planned, making it tight to get home in time to watch my granddaughter’s dance competition which was live-streamed online. So I increased my pace, picked up my feet and ran a few steps. Hmm, it wasn’t bad! I continued walking and repeated it with a little longer stretch. Still okay! With a number of short bursts I got home in time to watch her dance.

That was back in April. A few days later I went on an intentional walk/run, setting my sports watch to signal long walking intervals with one minute of running. Over the six weeks, I increased my distances and gradually altered the ratio of running to walking until I was only doing walking breaks for one minute every mile I ran. At that time I thought it would be possible to run/walk the half marathon.

With just 3 1/2 weeks left before the race, I eliminated my walking breaks entirely. I was back to full running! I was slow, but able to throw in a couple 12-mile runs to prove I could go close to the 13.1 mile distance. I was sure I could count on adrenalin and the excitement of the race to carry me the rest of the way. The race was on!

One year after we walked, Karen and I were positioned in the starting chute, ready to RUN! We were just two runners in the crowd, incognito but our hearts were full. Just like last year, Karen stayed by my side the whole way, and we relished all the excitement, the fun of the silly spectator signs, the antics of runners, ogled the fancy houses, and relished the loud cheers. She had words of encouragement as the going got tough, but just the gift of her presence kept me going.

Family members and friends were there to cheer us on once again, and the best part was having Karen’s two youngest run with us for several blocks.

I will readily admit it was the hardest half marathon of my 34 years of running them and full marathons. By the time we topped Lemon Drop Hill my pace slowed with each passing mile. My footsteps neared baby steps and it felt like I was barely moving (probably true!). But I was still in the game.

With the finish line in sight, I heard a familiar voice. It was Arlene, my good friend and running buddy, catching us from behind! What a thrill to see her! The three of us ran side by side, and crossed the finish line holding hands. It was a glorious moment. A triumph. And a rush of gratitude for the family and friends who have been there for me throughout this journey.

As Karen said, “Take that, cancer!” That says it all. My life goes on. And I feel blessed, one year later.

Reclaiming Winter

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Last year winter was a no-show. As it turns out, that was a moot point for me as I was in no shape to take advantage of its usual offerings. In fact, the lack of snow and cold was to my benefit as I walked my way back to health following surgery and throughout chemotherapy. I relished the clear sidewalks and mild weather as the length of my walks grew all winter long.

This year I admit to viewing snow and cold with some trepidation. My body is not what it once was and each foray back into the sports I love has been fraught with uncertainty and apprehension. Will I be strong enough? Is my balance good enough? Will I be warm enough in the cold? So I viewed winter’s delay this year a reprieve from testing myself. Almost a relief.

And then it snowed. A true significant snowfall. And it became clear what I wanted to do.

I was up early the next morning. I knew my window of opportunity was narrow, and I was out the door putting on my snowshoes before sunrise. My goal was to be on the Lester COGGS trails just across the street while they were still pristine, covered in snow, devoid of footprints and especially before the groomer arrived.

Snowshoeing felt safe. It’s an easy activity, does not require speed nor agility. I could plod at my own pace with nary a concern. Suddenly I couldn’t wait to be out there.

Jackpot! In the quiet of the early morning I had the trail to myself. Snow clung to the trees and muffled all the sounds. Only animal tracks marred the fresh blanket of snow. I stayed toasty warm with the effort of trudging through the fresh powder. This was what I loved about winter! It was all coming back to me now.

I went out two more times that day and the next. I love snowshoeing up the local rivers, and recruited friends to accompany me up the Sucker River and Lester River. Memories of past excursions came flooding back, and these adventures rivaled those experiences. We managed to scramble up and back down waterfalls, avoid the fast running open water exposed by holes in the ice, and stay upright. We marveled at the gurgling water under the ice and the beauty of our surroundings. Sharing it with friends who relish this kind of thing made it all the better. Yes, I do love winter!

Two days later I was ready for the next challenge. I viewed cross-country skiing as crossing a higher threshold. It requires balance, coordination, technique and skill. I decided the best approach was to ease myself back into it. Although skate skiing is my preferred method, I chose classic as I could do it at a slower and more controlled pace. And I planned to ski at Boulder Lake where the terrain is very mild. I wanted to set myself up for success!

Donning far more warm clothes than I normally do, I nervously carried my skis from the parking lot to the trail. Stepping into my bindings and securing the straps of my poles around my wrist, I maneuvered myself into the tracks. This was it. I had to move forward. I double-poled once. Twice. Three times. I gingerly began striding. And I felt it – I knew just what to do! Despite the introductory wobbles, I was off and skiing!

It certainly helped that conditions were absolutely perfect. The trails were freshly groomed, and had hardly been skied. Except for the few folks who started around the same time and flew off into the distance, I had the trail system to myself. The sun came out, the sky turned that brilliant blue, and the trails were as mild as I remembered. When I came to the intersection at the far end of the first loop, I eagerly continued on to the next. And then the next after that. It felt so good I didn’t want to stop. I admit to more butterflies on the first downhill, and lost my technique trying to ski up the inclines, but that paled in comparison to the joy of being out in the snowy wilderness. Taking in the glories of winter.

Snow makes all the difference. Without it, winter is drab and long. With snow on the ground, there are so many ways to enjoy the outdoors. It reminds me that this is what I love about winter. I am so grateful that my body is once again up to it, giving me back the activities I enjoy. Allowing me to reclaim winter.

A Perfect Match

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Cruising down one leg of the Loop Trail bike paths, mountains rising in the distance, sunshine pouring down, I couldn’t help but think “Now this is vacation!”

It had been over a year since Rich and I took a trip together.  Between my cancer journey and his surgery and complications, we have been tied to the medical community since the beginning of January.  As our appointments finally began thinning out and we both felt good again, we decided we needed to take the plunge.  It was time to get away, to prove we could be comfortable without our medical teams within reach, and enjoy doing something normal again.

Independently, we both began researching AirBnBs in Tucson, specifically Oro Valley.  When we discovered the coincidence, it was an easy decision to finalize our destination.  We’ve been there four times before and knew that it met all our basic needs – sunshine and warmth, a familiar environment, beautiful mountain views, and plentiful parks.  More than that, it caters to our individual needs.  For Rich, there are ample opportunities for birding, with varying habitats in state parks, canyons, and local spots he has already discovered.  For me, there are the bike trails.  Tucson’s Loop Trail provides 131 miles of paved trails atop the walls of the washes (commonly known as “rivers” even though they are mostly dry) that carry floodwaters during heavy rains.  In addition, we already knew of a good bike rental service.

Rich booked an AirBnB less than a mile from the Loop that was a haven in the city. In addition to its full kitchen and amenities, the backyard was nicely landscaped and even included a private pool.  I was immediately drawn to the covered patio where we could eat outside or sit in the shade.  Better yet, it backed up to a lesser wash where we could meander through desert environs right outside our back door.

That first morning I felt the freedom that comes with leaving home.  I had no commitments, no schedule to keep, no accomplishments to complete.  I could follow my heart’s desire, and I was doing it.  Cycling in shorts and the thinnest of top layers, I felt the sun on my skin, the mild breeze in my face and the strength in my legs as I pushed the pedals.  The mountains rose up in all directions, ringing the circumference of my cycling domain.  And the ease of traveling down miles of protected bike paths lured me on.  This was far removed from my usual biking workouts.  This was pleasure cycling.

We were located just off La Cañada del Oro leg of the Loop. I traced that link down and back each day to reach the further extents of the Loop, embracing its growing familiarity. That day I had chosen my favorite leg of the Loop, following the Rillito River Park on both sides of the wash.  I passed familiar sights with each passing mile, and noted trail improvements, additions and closings for construction.  By its nature, most of the Loop is flat cycling and I felt no compunction to press the pace.  It was enough to be outside in the warm weather.

Each day I re-discovered a different leg of the Loop. The eastern section of the Santa Cruz River Park covers a good stretch of rural environs then re-enters the heart of the city. The trail continues for miles, eventually ringing the city (which I cycled one year), but I chose to turn around at the extensive park in south Tucson.

The western side of the Santa Cruz River Park delivers surprising water views, with flowing water in a portion of the wash and El Rio Preserve, a seasonal lake fed by floodwaters.

Cycling was the core of my five days there, and filled my soul. But it was about much more than the cycling. I was able to make peace with not accomplishing much, and just going with the flow, letting each day unfold.

Because the night-time lows were in the 30s and 40s, mornings were chilly. So rather than dashing out at first light as I would do at home, I found it easy to linger. A few mornings I rambled in the wash, as the sun quickly warmed the air. Other days I puttered and journaled. Either way, once it was warm enough I’d sit outside to enjoy my coffee and breakfast.

I had not yet visited the Tucson Botanical Gardens, so I spent an afternoon there. Naturally there were plenty of desert plants, but I found the special displays even more enjoyable. In the hot and humid butterfly building the butterflies flew free among the orchids and greenery. It was hard to see them at first, but the longer I stayed the more I spotted. The floral watercolor paintings and quilt displays were equally captivating. You just never know what you will find in a garden!

Rich and I went to Catalina State Park where Rich spent rare up close and personal time with a Great Horned Owl, and I hiked the Alamo Canyon Loop Trail. What started out as a flat sandy trail morphed into boulder scrambling when it reached the canyon. With great caution (my balance is not so great these days) I approached a viewing spot at the canyon’s edge then continued around the end of the gorge and back down the other side. The silence of the afternoon hike proved to be very restorative.

Sunsets were a highlight of each day. Although we could see the sun go down in the distance, it was the light show on the opposite side as the sun painted the mountains red and caught the occasional clouds – all viewable from our back yard.

At the end of the day spent each doing our own thing, Rich and I sought out a few of our favorite restaurants in the area, not necessarily fancy but places were we enjoyed spending time over a good meal. It was there that we could relax together, and reflect on the day.

We had chosen well, I felt. As hoped, both the location and the lodgings allowed us to pursue our own passions. It allowed us time and space to unwind in our own ways, to nurture our needs. The sunshine and warmth lifted our spirits, and mountain views inspired us.

Yes, Oro Valley was the perfect match for us. And it was a blessing to be well enough to enjoy it all. I’m certain we will return again.

Tackling Lopez Island

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It’s finally time to break the silence. I’m sad to say this poor blog has been neglected while I took a time-out to focus my writing on CaringBridge to chronicle my cancer journey. It filled a need, to be able to focus on coming to grips with cancer, healing from surgery, and working my way through chemotherapy. But even more so to process my feelings, share my experiences, and connect with a caring community that supported me all along the way. I invite any of you to read my story and posts here.

Throughout this time I’ve continued to be as active as possible, first doing a lot of walking then adding cycling, gradually working back up to regular 25-mile rides up the shore. So when I was planning my trip out to Seattle to visit my son Erik and his wife Katie, I couldn’t help but think about last year when Erik and I cycled all of Orcas Island in the San Juan Islands. At the time, we pondered riding on Lopez Island next time, a prospect that loomed large as I packed. Could I manage it now? It had the advantage of being smaller and less hilly than Orcas, and I craved the opportunity to return to some adventure in my life.

Not only was Erik game, but he proposed an add-on. “Why don’t we go over the day before and camp overnight?” We arrived on the ferry in the late afternoon and made our way to Spencer Spit State Park. We had reserved a walk-in site on the beach, and oh what a gem! The local currents had created a sandy triangular spit of land that stretched across the gap almost to Frost Island. There was a log structure out near the end, and a pool of water in the interior. We quickly dropped our gear and set out to explore. We learned that the shape of the spit changes with the currents, but will never reach the far island due to the strong current in the channel.

We admired the sun setting over the trees behind us, then returned to our campsite to set up and make dinner before it got dark. The meal was extra tasty, as it always is in the simplicity off the outdoors with a tent. We bedded down with the lights of yachts bobbing on buoys just beyond our shore and the sound of waves lightly lapping.

Morning brought fog. After a hot breakfast and camp coffee, we packed up and stashed our gear in the car. As last year, our goal was to cover as much of the island as possible, and reach the shore on every side. We had found good cycling maps online that showed us the amount of traffic on each road and whether it had shoulders or not. We aimed to ride the quieter roads, that reached the extremities of the island.

Setting out, the fog was so dense that it obliterated all scenery. Looking out at the water was like seeing a white wall! From the park we crossed over to the east side of the island then headed south through Lopez Village and into more rural landscape. There were numerous farms (surprising to us – who farms on an island?), unique house architectures, and a flavor of laid back island life. Just 7 miles along, my back tire went flat. Erik changed the tube like a pro, and we were on our way again in short order.

We made our way to the southern peninsula of the island, out to Agate Beach where we reached the end of the road for the first time. We’d hoped to get out to Iceberg Point, but it was off limits to bicycles, so we made do with a picnic lunch overlooking Mackaye Harbor. Close up we could see boats anchored, but the fog obscured what we soon learned was a huge rocky outcropping beyond. Fortunately, starting then, the fog began to lift. We could still see it lurking in low-lying areas, but it soon became sunny and warm – a beautiful afternoon!

We tootled around that lower bulb of the island for much of the afternoon, exploring each small road until we could go no further. More than once we hit private land short of the shore. I hesitated at the top of a very steep hill, knowing that if I went down I’d have to come back up again. But the adventurers in us enticed us forward, only to find a dirt road not far beyond! We navigated that as well to reach a glass-walled modern mansion in the distance beyond the No Trespassing signs. And for the record, I did walk my bike back up that hill! It was well worth it though, for the quiet, woodsy small roads we traveled.

We had made plans to take the 4:15 ferry back that afternoon, and after checking the time we decided we needed to beat it back to the car. So we took the main road up the center of the island, which turned out to be fine despite its high traffic designation. We got back to the car with time to change out of our cycling clothes and mount the bikes on the car rack and head to the ferry. But we were mystified to find ourselves first in line for the ferry. It just didn’t feel right. Inquiring at the office, we learned that the 4:15 was strictly a walk-on ferry! Only then did it dawn on us that we’d picked that ferry in the early stages of planning when we didn’t expect to bring the car over. Oops!

We had plenty of time to kill before the 6:20 ferry, so we headed into Lopez Village where we loaded up on charcuterie items and headed out to Otis Perkins Day Park where we planted ourselves on a big log on the beach. There we were content to sit, soak up the sun, enjoy our little feast and take in the views of San Juan Island across the water – the very sights we’d missed in the morning fog.

We easily made the next ferry and enjoyed the setting sun as we motored back toward home. Feeling the sun’s still-warm rays, it was easy to bask in the warm glow of another successful island cycling trip. We covered 36 miles, hit all the coasts and saw the island in both fog and sunshine. What’s more, I did it – my body held up, I felt great pedaling through the miles, and relished the whole adventure. Leaving cancer behind. And the mother/son moments were priceless.

Of course, now we’ve set our sights on San Juan Island…

Orcas Island by Bicycle

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“It’s not that hilly, Mom.” I should have known better. In all the years of bike touring I did with Rich, we learned to never trust a motorist to give us directions. “Just down the road” may be hours of cycling for us. They don’t feel a headwind, and hills just mean pressing the accelerator a bit harder.

Erik and I had both been to Orcas Island in the San Juan Islands before, but only by car. When I arrived in Seattle to visit him and Katie, he was keen for an adventure. “Let’s bike Orcas Island!” My memory included hills, but I willingly quashed the image.

That just left the weather. In typical Seattle fashion, there was plenty of rain in the forecast. Comparing different weather apps only proved it was a complete unknown, so we caved to our inner explorers and set our plan in motion. Rising at 4:30am to reach the ferry in time for a 7:30 crossing, we sped through the dark in eager anticipation. The sun was just clearing the trees as we boarded the ferry in Anacortes, which we took to be a good omen for the day ahead.

As if to reinforce my premonitions, the road rose steeply from the ferry landing. I had borrowed Katie’s bike, shoes, pedals and helmet for this outing. Normally not a big deal, but this was a road bike – drop handlebars and all, which I’d never ridden in my life. Struggling to clip into the unfamiliar pedals, find the gear shifters and figure out which was which, I floundered immediately and ground to a halt. Relieved that I didn’t fall, I walked the bike a short distance to the first flatish spot to begin again. I took off from there, and never looked back.

Our plan was to bike the island – all of it. We’d cover all the paved roads we could before the 5:15 return ferry. Our first priority was to bike out to the far end of the sound and down to the tip on the far side of the inverted U-shaped island. Full of ambition and energy we tackled the hilly terrain.

Away from town, the countryside was quiet and rural, varying from farms and pastureland to forested byways. Pausing briefly in Eastsound Village to take in the view, we pushed on to the opposite side, eager to get more miles under our belts.

At Obstruction Pass near the tip we took time to venture out the long pier, soaking up the calm surroundings and serene view. Little was stirring – some children in a kayak, a fisherman docking his boat. It felt far removed from the season of high tourism, reclaimed by the locals.

Retracing the road north, we ventured off to follow smaller roads to the east. With each turn we left behind more cars and population, eventually reaching a quiet harbor at Kangaroo Point. Breakfast was a distant memory so we dropped our bikes on the grass and perched on a huge tree stump to pull out our sandwiches. Time easily slipped away as we refueled and relished the sunshine and undisturbed view.

Determined to explore it all, on our way back to Eastsound we made a short detour to the top of the island to peer out toward the water on that side. Then a long-anticipated stop at Brown Bear Baking for lattes and a blueberry tart to energize us for our final leg.

With clouds gathering overhead, we forged on toward Deer Harbor on the west arm. Just as the raindrops began to fall, a large parking lot materialized and we quickly stopped to don our rain jackets. Undeterred, we pushed on, determined to complete our tour. The road followed the shoreline, both flattening out slightly and giving us wet views of West Sound and a marina populated with sailboats. When we reached the Deer Harbor Inn just short of town, we did a time check. “I’m not sure there’s a later ferry,” Erik admitted. Calling it good enough, we turned around and pushed our pedals back toward the ferry landing. Sailing down that final steep hill, we could see the ferry chugging up to the dock.

I can now say with confidence that Orcas Island is indeed VERY hilly. Each downhill came with the guarantee of an uphill to follow, and visa versa. But I wouldn’t have changed a thing. It was worth every ounce of effort to spend the day with Erik, to share the unrelenting ups and downs, to brave the not-so-bad rainfall, to sit side by side munching on sandwiches.

Now we’re eyeing the other islands…

Catching up on Winter

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Snow storage. It’s a term I learned in Valdez, Alaska. I visited in the summer, but I couldn’t miss the extra wide streets with large medians down the middle. Yards had extra space near driveways. There were massive open lots. All designed to pile up excess snow to make room for more when an average of 300″ fall each winter.

Now I get it. In Duluth, this is the winter that just won’t quit. The snow keeps coming, the banks climb higher and our plow service had to bring in a special machine to make room around our driveway to clear the snow yet to come. With over 125″ of snowfall, it’s already the 6th snowiest winter on record, just 10″ from the top.

Rich and I have done our best to find respite from this relentless winter. Two weeks in Hawaii, a trip to visit my son in Seattle, and a week in Tucson were all welcome breaks from the snow and cold. And yet winter still reigns.

Don’t get me wrong. I love winter. And I love it most when it is snowy and keeps refreshing the ski trails and piles up for snowshoeing. So I’m all for this snow. But April is beckoning.

Perhaps this is my payback for checking out of winter this year. The weather gods were giving me a chance to catch up on what I missed. So who was I to argue? It was time I embraced it, even if it felt like the wrong season.

Thirteen inches of new snow just begged for snowshoeing. I’ve learned that I need to get out early in order to plunder untrampled trails, to sink into virgin powder and share the forest with only the birds and animal tracks. Snow still blanketed the trees and even though I ducked low beneath the branches overhanging the trail, snow still slithered down my neck now and then. But in the late season’s mild temperature, I didn’t care.

I got antsy to ski. I knew the groomer had not yet worked its magic, so I grabbed my classic skis and prepared to trudge. I was relieved to find that one or two intrepid skiers had already broken trail, and I slipped my skis into their tracks. It required more push than glide, but that wasn’t the point. The brilliant sunshine, peaceful shush of my skis and the smooth undulation of the snow filled my senses. Winter at its best, no matter what the calendar said.

By the next snowfall, I had succumbed to the draw of upscale snowshoes. Tired of trying to work resistant buckles with stiff frozen fingers, I salivated over some Tubbs with easy in-and-out bindings and extra features like heel lifts. I pressed Add to Cart and they came in time for the next six inch snowfall.

Since I wasn’t as quick to get out, the local trails were already groomed for fat tire bikes. I took to the banks as often as I could, finding soft snow atop an older crusty layer. The spikes gripped like a dream and I floated over the snow. Even on the packed trail, I had all the traction I needed. That short trial run only whetted my appetite for more.

Skiing in warmer conditions also has its own unique guidelines. I’m a morning person, but in the season of melt and refreeze I have to exercise my limited patience and wait until afternoon when the snow will begin to soften. Sure enough, the skate deck that was rock hard the day before was melting in the sun and had just enough give to provide my skis with the edge I needed. It was a delight to ski in minimal layers as I made my way around the Lester-Amity trail system.

I’ve only been home for two weeks, yet it feels like a winter’s quota of outdoor splendor. I think I have caught up on winter.

A Sunny Retreat

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I have a habit of flying into snowstorms.  Three times in recent history my return trip from a winter excursion has been delayed a day or more due to blustery Minnesota weather.  I’ve become an expert at rebooking my flights.  The most recent was my return from Seattle, leaving me just 27 hours at home before departing again for the next trip.  Out with the ski clothes, in with the shorts and sandals.

This time the destination was Tucson.  Soldiering on at home while I skied up mountains with Erik, Katie and her mom Betsy, Rich was in need of a break.  He craved respite from this winter’s relentless snowfalls and wistfully reminisced about the sunny warm days we often spent in Arizona.  Despite the clench in my stomach induced by the thought of crowding in another trip, I agreed.  I’d had my fun, he should too.  And who was I to argue with visions of that blissful warmth?  Some hardship.

I decided I would treat it as a retreat.  We’d been there enough times to cover all the best sights and I felt no compunction to be touristy.  I had no must-do activities in mind.  Instead, I would use the time to soak up the outdoors by running, biking and hiking, enjoy eating out, and most importantly rejuvenate my inner creativity.  I was sorely in need of jumpstarting my writing, drawing and painting. That was something to look forward to.

We have a favorite “casita” in Oro Valley, cradled between the mountains with a back patio facing east where we dined each evening as the sunset painted the mountains red.  It was already booked on such short notice, but Rich found one nearby with the same stunning view in addition to a beautiful yard and pool we would share with the homeowners.  Our late afternoon arrival soon confirmed the perfection of his choice.

Normally, we do this trip in April, and although I knew it would be cooler this time, I feared I hadn’t brought enough warm clothes when the first few days started in the 30s and only reached the mid-50s.  Still, I reminded myself that it was a lot colder at home. But that argument wore thin on day 2 when we woke up to 2+ inches of thick snow!  While it was shocking, it was also beautiful and unique.  Our host told us they had seen this happen only twice before in 20 years, and Rich eagerly grabbed his camera to capture the desert under snow.

I did my usual – headed out for a run, using that as my opportunity to see the area blanketed in white and stop frequently for photos.  I wasn’t the only one, cars hastily parked on the roadside everywhere, doing the same.  Unlike Duluth, the walkways were clear and once the sun crept out from the clouds the melting began.  By mid-morning it was all fading into a wet memory.

One of Rich’s desert snow shots

As the week wore on, the temperatures steadily climbed.  Tucson has wonderful bike trails, and I recreated my long rides from past visits.  My favorite outing was timed to coincide with the Rillito River Heirloom Farmers Market.  I was chilled to the bone by the time I’d logged the 22 miles to get there (all on bike trail!), and I eagerly sipped hot coffee and relished a fresh scone as I perused the bountiful farm offerings, artisan crafts and food booths accompanied by local musicians.  By the time I left, I was able to shed all my warm layers and return in shorts and jersey – a long awaited treat.

Rich avidly pursued his birding and photography, scoring a number of rare finds as well as locating his favorite prey – owls.  That inspired me to keep my promise to pursue my own crafts.  Whenever possible, I requisitioned the little table outside our casita to do my writing, crafting several posts for my long neglected blog.  It felt like priming the pump, doing something rusty yet familiar, in preparation for other works I want to tackle.

I used my bike rides to scout out ideas for my nascent discovery of journal sketching and watercolors.  Keeping my eyes peeled for interesting cacti and plants, and knowing I couldn’t crouch on street medians or private front yards, I snapped photos in order to recreate the scenes later.  That was a no-no in the class I took last year, but sometimes you just have to make do.  After spending more time at that little table on the patio, I finally rendered one finished piece. 

Our final day delivered the picture-perfect Tucson weather I had learned to love – cool in the morning, but clear sunny skies and reaching the mid-70s.  I set my sights on re-exploring the third of the lengthy Loop trails, and headed down to the southern portion of the Santa Cruz River Park.  The miles quickly slipped beneath my rental bike tires as I plied the flat trail, out on one side of the wash, back on the other.  Cyclists from racing teams to slow putterers and e-bikes went by, all out to enjoy the beautiful weather.  By the time I returned, I had logged 50 miles.  A suitable finale, I felt.

And yet, I was reluctant to let the day slip away and craved at least a short hike before surrendering this locale.  After dithering over my options with unnecessary anxiety, I finally settled on a local park for a walk. Donning my running shoes and grabbing some water, I headed out to the car.  But I never got in.  What was I doing?  What was I trying to prove?  Hadn’t I just been bemoaning the fact that it hadn’t been warm enough to sit out on the patio to enjoy the view?  It was enough to turn me around.  Grabbing the Mother/Daughter journal that Karen and I share, I made my way over to the remaining sunny spot by the pool.  I settled in with pen and paper, first immersing myself in Karen’s latest entry, then contemplating my response.  Soon I was lost in thought, penning my entry, composing as I went with no option to hit delete or rewrite.  This had to come straight from the heart.  And it did.

Sometimes I need a push to get out of my comfort zone, to abandon my carefully laid plans and tendency to want total control over my life.  This trip was good for me, and Rich got his much-needed escape.  We spent unhurried time together in addition to pursuing our own desires.  It was just the sunny retreat I needed. Even though another Minnesota snowstorm was on the way…

Sharing Adventures

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We met at the same time our kids did.  Erik and Katie were on their high school Nordic ski team, Betsy and I were team moms – baking brownies, holding out warming capes for the kids in their spandex racing suits, riding the team bus and cheering at the meets.  As the spark grew between our young skiers, so did the friendship between the two parent couples.  Sharing a wedding ceremony between our children cemented the bonds for all of us.

When Amazon lured Erik and Katie out to Seattle two years ago, I wondered how they would feel about living in a temperate climate, leaving behind Minnesota winters and skiing.  Little did I know that it would only be the beginning of mountain adventures for them, including skiing, snowshoeing, ski mountaineering and (gulp!) avalanche training.  Enticed by the stunning snowy mountain photos, I spent a week with them last winter including a picture-perfect day snowshoeing on Mt. Rainier.  I was hooked – I had to do it again.  And I knew the perfect companion.

“Say Betsy, how about Moms trip to Seattle?”  That’s all it took.

The plan was to hike or snowshoe together during the week while Erik and Katie worked.  For the weekend, the kids had something special arranged – three days skiing in The Methow, the largest cross-country ski trail system in North America, in the Cascade Mountains.  Not only that, but they had snagged a cancellation for one of the highly sought-after ski-in huts for our first night. 

We left in the dark, bleary-eyed but excited at 5am.  By 10am we were at the trailhead, and loaded our overnight gear in a sled for the snowmobile tow service.  Mountains of sleeping bags, food, water and clothing zoomed off as we – accompanied by pooch Finley – skied up the trail.  I looked up at the surrounding peaks, snow laden and glistening in the sun as my skis slid over the snow.  It just didn’t feel real!

That first day was magical.  The grooming was impeccable and we skied companionably in a group taking it all in.  Our hut was at the top end of our portion of the trail system, dictating we climb most of the way to get there.  Our original plan had been to ski up to the hut, relax over some lunch then venture out again.  But it was far too enticing to just continue skiing and cover more of the trails.  We didn’t have a morsel of food with us, but our hunger for the trails was stronger.  Onward we went.

There are five ski-in huts in all and we made it a point to stop and explore the locale of several others.  The clear favorite was Rendezvous hut, with spectacular views.  It speaks for itself.

The trails are groomed for both classic and skate skiing.  The others classic skied, and Betsy skijored with Finley.  I chose to skate ski, vainly hoping it would help me keep up.  But speed was not of the essence on this trip.  It was all about the experience.

By the time we reached Heifer Hut, we had skied 27 kilometers and were ready to settle into our rustic quarters.  It was perched on the mountainside surrounded by stately pines.  Leaning our skis against the wood exterior, we eagerly went inside to explore.  A woodstove, bench and double bunks lined one side, and on the other was a kitchen area with a propane stove and a table with benches.  A ladder led to the loft where three more double mattresses awaited.  The propane lights reminded me of Coleman lanterns, and were supplemented with solar lights fueled by a tiny solar panel. With the woodshed and outhouse across the way it had everything we needed,

Getting the fire started was our first order of business, along with fixing some food.  Hot tea and snacks refueled us enough to unpack, claim bunks and stash our gear. Soon it was cozy inside, and we traded our ski wear for comfy cabin clothes.  The remainder of the afternoon and evening passed quickly, with hot wild rice soup and fixings followed by lively rounds of Hearts played around the table.

Erik and I were the first ones up in the morning, and donned snowshoes to explore the terrain behind the cabin with Finley.  We meandered in deep powder, sunshine and silence, the perfect start to the morning.  Katie and Betsy joined us, and Erik headed inside to prepare breakfast.  I think those were the best pancakes I’ve ever eaten!

If reaching the cabin was all uphill, it meant our second day was the opposite!  Erik and Finley took off down the black diamond trail back to meet the snowmobile at the car while Katie, Betsy and I skied to a distant trailhead where we would meet them.  Erik managed to ski up to us en route, and we sent him off to get in some good fast kilometers (in prep for the Birkie), and he still caught us again just before we finished.  We completed the day with a low key snowshoe on Patterson Lake before heading off to our hotel in Winthrop. 

For our final day, we chose the opposite end of the trail system near Mazama.  There we skied in the valley, on trails that more closely resembled Minnesota.  The gentler trails passed through woods and open fields, where we were reminded of our locale with mountain views once again.  While we had encountered few skiers the prior two days, the easy access and terrain of this area invited many more skiers including families.  We skied a number of different loops before our departure time drew near. 

While we were sad to see the skiing and weekend come to an end, talk quickly turned to next year.  Betsy and I were hooked.  Clearly we have more shared adventures already looming in the future.

Back in the Saddle

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I knew right where to find them. There in the hall closet my panniers lay carefully folded on a shelf, surrounded by camping and biking gear. As I pulled them out, memories came flooding back with them, swarming my senses with the sights, sounds, and emotions of bicycle touring. It all felt so long ago. Three years. A lifetime.

What started as a lark in the early days of our retirement, taking a week long trip around the western end of Lake Superior by bicycle, quickly turned into a passion. One that consumed our travel itineraries for the next eight years and over 10,000 miles. One week turned into two months, then became a month-long gig every year, sometimes twice a year. We pedaled coastlines, remote countryside, forests and prairies, followed rivers and snaked through mountain passes. We even ventured abroad, hauling our bikes over to Scotland and trying a self-guided tour in Norway. On a rare occasion we were joined by our son or a friend, but mostly it was just me and Rich. Over time, it defined us. It’s what we did, what we loved to do.

Trans-Superior Tour – our first adventure
Grand Gaspe Tour – our longest tour
Norway’s Lofoten Islands – our last tour

And then it wasn’t.

Enter Covid. Suddenly restaurants shut down, little motels struggled, using host homes was out of the question. While biking itself was a safe activity, the infrastructure for our travels collapsed, and we weren’t game for a 100% camping tour. We were grounded, limited to day rides and the isolation of the pandemic.

But that wasn’t the worst of it.

In October of 2020 Rich collapsed while out trail running near home. A genetically misshaped heart valve had deteriorated severely over time, leaving him with a leaky, enlarged and damaged heart. Two weeks later, he emerged from the hospital with a new valve, a zipper seam down the middle of his chest, and a pacemaker/defibrillator. His active lifestyle was the biggest factor in his ability to recover, but was also severely challenged by this new condition with the unfortunate name “heart failure.”

As Covid raged on, so did Rich. With patience and determination over two years, he fought his way back to cycling, trail running and cross-country skiing. All at a new pragmatic pace. Perhaps to quell my nagging, he bought an e-bike this summer and quickly learned that it wasn’t a cop-out, it was an enabler. It has reduce the anxiety and restored his joy in cycling.

But bike touring is still an unknown.

Enter Minnesota Trails Magazine. For years, each summer editor Jan Lasar and I have collaborated on a story about a ride on one of our state’s scenic byways or trails. He takes the photos and I write the story. Usually it’s a one-day affair, but this year we had targeted the contiguous combination of the Central Lakes, Lake Wobegon and Soo Line Trails, a combined mileage of 144 miles. We decided to break this into a 3-day ride, and I smelled a bike tour in the making.

Oh heavenly day!

Three days or two months, packing for a bike tour requires the same amount of clothing and paraphernalia. The only difference is how much hand washing in a motel room sink is required. My handy dandy cycle touring spreadsheet guided me through the process of gathering my gear and stashing it neatly in place.

It wasn’t easy, striking out on a tour without my partner. It wasn’t the same as setting off with Rich with vast expanses ahead of us, tackling it together. While he is grappling with his limitations and celebrating his advances, I still long to challenge my own limits and push myself. We’re both learning to manage through this new normal, which sometimes means letting each other loose.

Our tour started in Fergus Falls and stretched to Waite Park outside St. Cloud, plus another leg from Albany to the Mississippi River dam near Highway 10. We broke the ride with motel stays in Alexandria and Albany, and had shuttle help from Jan’s friend.

Normally when Rich and I bike tour, we avoid bike trails. Too often they are monotonous and skirt the towns which we enjoy exploring. But this combination of trails was an exception to that rule. Following old railroad beds, we rode through towns where old train depots once dispatched passengers. Now instead, we were greeted by tall grain elevators and could stop to investigate the local sights.

Throughout the ride, Jan photographed while I snapped iPhone shots and took mental notes. Nothing stopped Jan from getting a creative vantage point, and re-do’s were common, sometimes raising the eyebrows of curious onlookers.

In the evenings, I felt that familiar fatigue that comes of spending all day on a bike. The satisfying sense of accomplishment, the justification for a hearty dinner, the welcome of a soft bed. And the anticipation of doing it all again the next day.

All too soon, we pulled up to our destination and dismounted our bikes for the last time. We had endured 93-degree heat, a flat tire, a chilling headwind, a 66-mile day and saddle-sores. We enjoyed good pavement, the lack of cars, the rolling farmland, nice parks and caffeinating at a cozy coffee shop. All part of the package when bike touring.

It was a great tour, although it wasn’t the same. I missed Rich and couldn’t help but wish for future tours with him once more. But only time will tell that story. For now, it felt good to be back in the saddle.

Look for the Summer 2023 issue of Minnesota Trails Magazine to read the full story and see Jan’s amazing photographs of this tour. The magazine is published quarterly online as well as free print copies available in Minnestoa parks and outdoor shops.