A Soggy Ride

We've been extremely lucky on our long distance cycling trips – we've never had to cycle through serious rain. Until today. It was bound to happen, and I'd say we've paid our dues.

We knew going into the day that we were going to get wet. The forecast was for clouds in the morning and thunderstorms in the afternoon. With 75 miles to get from Acadia to our next destination, we would spend significant time on the road. Trying to beat the rain as much as possible, we got an early start. Just not early enough. Barely two miles into our ride, the raindrops began. It wasn't long before it was raining in earnest. Soon it turned into a thunderstorm. So much for weather forecasts. This was the real thing, with lightening flashing overhead and thunder booming. And rain pelting down hard enough to bounce back up off the pavement and turn the road and shoulder into mini rivers. Oh boy.

Rich and Molly wait under shelter

We forged on for 20 miles before stopping under the broad awning of a home improvement store. Rather belatedly we fished our rain jackets out of our panniers. Even with the mild temperature I was shivering uncontrollably. It didn't help our psyches to stand and watch the rain come down in torrents with rain pouring off the roof in massive streams, knowing we still had 55 miles to go. By then I resolved that I wasn't going to budge until it let up somewhat. I only had so much tolerance.

Molly enjoying her hot coffee

Miraculously the rain did calm down, a bit. And off we went again. The rain jacket made a huge difference – imagine that! We didn't know it but the worst was behind us. Thankfully. We pressed on, abandoning our plans to stop for a hot breakfast in a cafe en route. Our sites were strictly focused on reaching our dry motel room. We did allow ourselves a snack stop, making the best of the offerings in a gas station convenience store. No latte for me today, but quality was not my top criterium today – the fact that the coffee was hot was good enough for me.

We were cycling machines as we pressed on for the remaining miles. No stops. Not much conversation. No photo opps. We were so focused on finishing that we barely even registered the fact that the rain had lessened significantly. But Mother Nature wasn't done with us yet. With about 5 miles to go the clouds let loose once again, pelting us fiercely.

Carl arriving at the motel

It was with great relief that we spotted the motel and sought shelter in the office, where we were greeted with astonishment and chuckles over our day's journey. Dripping wet and giddy to be finished, we happily consumed chocolate kisses from the candy bowl and enjoyed the humorous banter. Juggling extra towels on our gear, we headed to our humble motel room with great anticipation. We'd made it!

We gloated as the rain continued through the afternoon, installed in our room surrounded by the soggy contents of our panniers draped in every available space to dry. Not wishing to get doused again, we were thrilled when the motel owners graciously proferred restaurant menus and drove us to pick up our hot dinners. Some hard cider from the gas station next door, and we had the makings of a feast.

Carl and Molly enjoy dinner in a dry motel room

We've now broken our record. We survived cycling through a whole day of rain. But we're in no hurry to repeat the experience.

 

Acadia Rain or Shine

Acadia National Park was high on our list of sights to see as we cycled the Maine coast. So we allowed a day and a half there for hiking and exploring its natural beauty. Everyone had different interests and priorities, so we split up and

Carl on the trail up Cadillac Mountain

Our first afternoon was a continuation of the bright sunny weather we'd enjoyed all week. Carl and I took advantage of the clear skies to hike up to the top of Cadillac Mountain to take in the views. We had planned to take the easiest route to the top, but somewhere our logistics went awry. When we set off from our starting point, the gentle climb quickly turned into a steep ascent. Clambering up boulders and clutching sheer rocks while I tried to traverse them, I became certain it was not what I signed up for. But going back down seemed the worse option, so I persevered. Fortunately, either the terrain improved slightly, or I became more adept at climbing and my comfort level increased with our progress. I'm certain Carl could have scampered up the trail in half the time, but he patiently stuck with me and surreptitiously ensured I didn't take a tumble. And that route certainly had breathtaking views on the way up, when I dared to turn around and look.

Molly and the view on the way up

The view from the top was indeed spectacular. Being the tallest point in the park, we could see in almost all directions. Ocean, coastline, boats, forests, lakes and rock everywhere we looked. We tried hard to ignore the hoards of other tourists who had driven to the top and dominated the scene. In our minds, hiking was the best way to enjoy the summit.

Molly and Carl at the top of Cadillac Mountain

Our second day brought the first rain of our trip. Not to be deterred, we still ventured out to hike. The Ocean Trail attracted several of us, with its craggy shoreline and cliffs. Hiking in Acadia seems to be synonymous with walking on rocks, and that trail was no exception. It offered plenty of shoreline rocks for walking across. Myra and I preferred the fact that the direction was horizontal not vertical.

View from the Ocean Trail
Myra on horizontal rocks

Carl, on the other hand, was enamored with the climbs that offered real vertical ascent. He scaled the Precipice, loving the challenge of the climb. It didn't matter that the views were obscured. Achieving the summit was reward enough for him. It definitely was not the climb for me. Just seeing his pictures made me nervous.

Carl climbing Precipice
Carl's feet, looking down Precipice...

For a group of outdoor enthusiasts, Acadia was a great match. We barely scratched the surface of all the park had to offer. Although we did manage to fit in a bit of cycling getting to and from our hikes. After all, we're on a cycling tour.

 

Hugging the Coast of Maine

Our progress to date

Progress to date: 4 day, 220 miles

Over the last four days and 220 miles of cycling, we have made it over half way up the state. And we've done our best to get as many ocean views as possible. In the beginning, we were able to cycle along beaches and see sweeping expanses of the Atlantic. But moving northward, the craggy shoreline has so many inlets and bays that there are few places where the road can actually parallel the coast. Even so, the ocean inevitably dominates our daily travels.

Beaches in the southern part of Maine

Each bay and river we cross brings us to another bridge. Just like road repair season in Minnesota, we have discovered a number of bridges closed for repairs. That can mean a detour, a shuttle for bikes, or just sneaking across. Other bridges border on the spectacular. But what looks good from a distance can be intimidating to cross on a bicycle – to me anyway. The others appear to have no such qualms.

Cyclists crossing a closed bridge

Cyclists crossing a closed bridge

Penobscot Narrows Bridge

Penobscot Narrows Bridge

The inlets invariably host harbor towns, which are a delight. We never tire of the marinas filled with boats of all shapes and sizes glistening in the sun. And when venturing out for dinner in the evenings, we search for outdoor patios with views of the harbor.

Harbor view at Damariscotta

Harbor view at Damariscotta

Sunset at Damariscotta

Harbor view at Damariscotta

The main tourist route north through Maine is Highway 1. We've tried hard to avoid it, with its heavy traffic and big trucks. Whenever possible, we venture off on smaller roads with less traffic. Our reward has been to cycle down quiet tree lined lanes, winding through rural areas with beautiful homes and quaint towns. Often we have been able to peer through the yards to catch a glimpse of the ocean beyond. But everything comes at a cost. Side roads tend to follow the contours of the land more than the big highways. Here in Maine that translates to frequent and steep hills. There is no doubt, we are getting quite a workout each day!

It's not all about the scenery, though. Between the miles of cycling we have found plenty of opportunity for fun along the way. All while hugging the coastline.

 

Off with a Bang!

Today's the day. The start of the Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour! As planned, we started from Exeter Academy in New Hampshire, and ceremoniously cycled away from our car through campus. Naturally, we stopped for the obligatory group photo, pressing a passing student into service as photographer. Suddenly, a loud shot rang out – BANG! – startling everyone. It was Rich's front inner tube, which spontaneously blew out! The first road repair of the trip was staring us in the face. Just .6 miles into our ride. At least it was an aesthetically pleasing place to do the work.

Rich repairing his flat tire
What a blowout!

Fortunately, the remainder of the day's ride proceeded without further incident. We covered a mere 19 miles due to the complexity of scheduling everyone's arrival at the start, but that gave the day a relaxed feel. Taking back roads we traveled through beautiful neighborhoods and pretty towns, admiring the gardens and extensive landscaping which was at its summer peak. Conversation flowed easily up and back the column of four riders, as we cycled the quiet roads. It was hard to believe that this was the real thing. Despite breaking out the official trip jerseys, and and putting the panniers on our bikes, it all felt a bit surreal. Perhaps reality will sink in tomorrow when we have some serious miles to cover.

Rich and Molly by the Eagle

We did manage to do a little sightseeing. Reaching Portsmouth, we found it bustling with activity, and walked our bicycles through the busy downtown area on the water taking it all in. Restaurants, shops and plenty of tourists thronged the streets. The Eagle, the Coast Guard Tall Ship was in town, so we took time to check it out as well.

Having traveled over the bridge to Kittery, we're barely into Maine, but it's a start. A good start – big bang and all.

The cyclists - Myra, Carl, Rich and Molly

 

Grand Gaspé Tour – Cast of Characters

With the start of our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour just one day away, it seems appropriate to introduce the intrepid cyclists who are taking the plunge on this great adventure. It’s worth noting at the outset that there are two classes cyclists here. Two of us are doing the whole kahuna. We’re the crazy ones anticipating traveling and carrying all our worldly goods for two months and over 2,000 miles on our bicycles. We are the ones venturing into the Canadian Maritimes with only a general route in mind and several detours already under consideration. The other two are more sane. They are merely tackling the first 500 miles with us along the coast of Maine, with hotel reservations already in place, guaranteeing a shower and dry bed at the end of each day. Either way, it’s going to be a Grand Tour.

RichRich – Full Route

This was all his idea. My husband is the veteran of five past cycling tours, all but one self-planned. He loves playing travel agent, researching the details and making the reservations. In fact, he has dreamed up far more future trips than we could ever execute. Rich is a steady cyclist who detests hills (especially with loaded panniers) and loves the thrill of plummeting downhill. He embraces sightseeing stops on his cycling tours, sometimes to the consternation of his fellow cyclists. A Northern Pike shaped car and vivid purple cow are mere examples. He’s also an avid photographer, so photo opps are valid reasons to tarry along the way.

Most looking forward to: Seeing the next “purple cow”

Biggest worry: How my body will hold up over 2,000 miles of cycling

MollyMolly – Full Route

That’s me. I was cajoled into trying cycling by Rich a mere 19 months ago. I wasn’t sure i wanted to trade marathon running for cycling. But following my first trip I was hooked. I’ve now completed two long distance bike tours and despite the audacity of this itinerary I was quick to agree to the plan. My cycling style tends to be more intense. I’m not one to dawdle. I like to push the pace, put the miles behind me and have to be convinced to stop and smell the flowers. Rich and I probably balance each other out pretty well – he makes sure we have fun along the way and I make sure we get to our destination.

Most looking forward to: The coastline, with its cliffs, waves and lighthouses

Biggest worry: Cycling in heavy rain

CarlCarl – Maine Only

Carl is our middle child. He has always prided himself on making his own decisions. While the rest of the family played the accordion (that’s another story), he adamantly stuck to guitar and banjo. In a family of marathon runners, Carl pursued serious cycling. Interesting that now two of us have come around. Carl has done two long distance cycling trips, one being a father-son tour with Rich. So he knows what he’s getting into on this trip. Carl has the only road bike among three touring style bikes in the group – still the individual. He’s also the fastest among us. And to be fair, the has the youngest legs by 30 years. We’ll see if he forges ahead or stays with the pack.

Most looking forward to: Acadia National Park

Biggest worry: I am bit unsure about what it will be like biking in a group of four people when everyone probably is used to going at different paces.

MyraMyra – Maine Only

Myra’s still wondering how she ended up on this trip. She’s been a friend of mine since Jr High, and in an era when few sports were available to girls in school Myra played them all. So it’s no surprise that she’s been cycling for years, and when I took it up we discovered we were well matched. To date we’ve logged two century rides together. It was only in casual conversation about the trip that I threw out the idea that she join us, and with little hesitation she committed. This is Myra’s maiden long distance bike tour. But I’m not concerned. Myra is able to keep up both a solid pace and a steady conversation for miles and miles. And she always seems to have the energy to go farther – as long as she’s well fed.

Most looking forward to: Just getting out and riding through beautiful country and enjoying it from a bicycle.

Biggest worry: How many bagels should I bring and how will I keep them fresh and how much will they weigh?

Tomorrow this motley crew will gather in Exeter, New Hampshire to begin our ride together. Look out sea coast, here we come!

Cycling en Route

Having pushed through Ontario, our reward was having short driving days for the remainder of our trip to the East coast and time to do a few bike rides. After all, it's not enough that we are heading out to start a 2,000 mile bike trip. We still want to cycle through some of the scenic areas along the way.

Our first stop was the Lake Champlain Islands. A string of islands at the top of the long narrow lake, they are joined by causeways and crisscrossed by bike routes. We pitched our tiny tent in the Grand Isle State Park Campground and set off to explore the island by bike. It was a hot, sunny afternoon but most of the cycling roads clung to the lakeshore, and just looking out at the deep blue water was refreshing.

The affluence of the area was unmistakable, with quaint homes immaculately landscaped and picturesque little villages full of artsy shops and restaurants. Yet in the interior, i was surprised to see that there were also working farms, busily making hay as we passed. I can never resist a Farmers' Market, and we stopped at one with everything from ethnic foods to iced cider to homespun wool. Oh yes, and a few vegetables and local blueberries as well.

Molly cycling on Grand Isle

Molly cycling on Grand Isle

Rich sampling food at the farmers' market

Rich sampling food at the farmers' market

Today brought us to Dartmouth College, Rich's alma matter. Naturally, our first stop had to be the boathouse, where young crew members were going out for their morning training. As a former oarsman, it was tough for Rich to drag himself away from the rowing to begin our bike ride.

Our route took us up the Connecticut River on the Vermont side, hugging the river's edge and cycling through pretty little towns. We had another picture perfect day, and naturally couldn't resist stopping for ice cream at the far point of our ride. Those were the biggest “small” cones we'd ever seen! But we didn't complain. We returned via the New Hampshire side of the river, encountering some major climbs and descents on that route. Good training for our upcoming trip, I kept reminding myself. I especially enjoyed going through Lyme NH, which Rich and I visited when we were just dating, oh so many years ago.

Students rowing at Dartmouth

Students rowing at Dartmouth

Rich cycling along the Connecticut River

Rich cycling along the Connecticut River

Yummy ice cream at Whippi Dip!

Yummy ice cream at Whippi Dip!

Molly in Lyme NH

Molly in Lyme NH

It's a good thing we didn't do a longer ride, or get larger ice cream cones. We barely had our bikes back on the car when the afternoon's threatening rain materialized in a heavy downpour. Whew, timing is everything! We can only hope to continue that luck on our Grand Gaspé Tour.

 

Coming Unplugged

We knew that cell phone coverage in Canada would be an issue. My phone plan flat out does not include Canada. Rich's phone is unique in that it uses wifi for its primary access, so he occasionally has connectivity. To rectify the situation, we intended to buy a cheap prepaid phone in Canada, but such plans to not include calls to the US. Not willing to spend an arm and a leg for service, we're just going to make do.

First, we're testing the limits of our equipment. Rich figured out he can still send and receive email on his phone when there is cell service. Texting seems to work as well, on the same basis. Sounds good, but we're traveling through remote areas of Ontario. We just have to hope for signals if we run into an emergency and need to notify family back home.

Naturally, wifi is a valid lifeline. When we can find it. We suffered mediocre breakfast food and barely passable coffee one morning for the glory of a fast internet connection. We rapidly connected, checked email, published blog posts and checked in with Facebook. We've learned to work offline ahead of time, using our scarce internet time to push content to the web and download sites to read later.

Sunset over the Ottawa River

Normally we would get our internet fix in the evenings. Even cheap motels offer free internet. But campsites don't provide the same luxury. We thought we had it made when we found a cute little restaurant attached to a motel for dinner last night. Sure enough they had wifi. Unfortunately, the waitress was more focused on food than technology, and we never did get that password. But there were other compensations. Instead of lingering over our tablets we got back to our campsite in time for a beautiful sunset.

With each passing day, the withdrawal symptoms have lessened. Checking email seems less urgent. Reading at night wins out over composing blog posts. Life will go on if we don't post our latest pictures on Facebook. We've trained hard for our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour, and this final journey to the start of that trip is preparing us in another way. The Canadian Maritimes are guaranteed to present even greater technology challenges. Fortunately, we've also learned a trick. What seems to be extinct in the US is still available in Canada. If we remember how to use it, we can still call home. Even when we're unplugged.

Canadian Phone Booth

 

Lake Superior Half Circle Tour

We've never done the Lake Superior Circle Tour, but in the last two days we nearly completed the northern half. We'd never been beyond Nipigon before, and were enchanted with the Canadian stretch of lakeshore on the other end of the lake. Beyond a doubt, it is unspoiled wilderness. The dense forest, deep rock cuts for the road, vast distances between small towns, and soaring views of Lake Superior make it truly unique. Even when the road ventured inland away from the Big Lake, we were continually wowed by views of deep blue pristine lakes.

We were surprised at how hilly the terrain is. Since we are on our way to the east coast to start our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour, we are keenly aware of hills and wind. It was clear that this stretch of the Circle Tour would be most challenging on bicycle. But it also lends beauty to the area. I'm not one who can normally sit in a car for hours on end without working on a project or reading. But the scenery kept me riveted for the last two days.

Rossport's harbor

Rossport's harbor

Aquasabon Falls

Aquasabon Falls

Since we had our bikes along, we took the opportunity to do some cycling near Wawa. Traveling inland on infrequently traveled roads was a delight.

Molly by Wawa Lake

Molly by Wawa Lake

Rich enjoying a picnic lunch in Wawa

Rich enjoying a picnic lunch in Wawa

We chose Pancake Bay Provincial Park to camp for the night. After pitching our humble pup tent in a nice site right next to the beach, I took a long stroll along the waterline, and we picnicked on the sand. As the sound of the waves lulled us to sleep there seemed no better place to be.

Beautiful view north of Pancake Bay

Beautiful view north of Pancake Bay

The beach at Pancake Bay

The beach at Pancake Bay

Now I wonder why we waited so long to visit this end of Lake Superior and take in its beauty. I guess we saved the best for last.

 

Gaspé Prelude

I’ve checked and double checked my detailed list.  My panniers are packed with my cycling clothes and gear.  My duffel bag is full of all the things I’ll need on the drive.  Food and picnic items are prepared for the journey.  Ancillary items are poised to go into the car.  Are we ready to go?

Today we start theDriving Route trip to the beginning of the trip – driving from Duluth out to New Hampshire for our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour.  We have decided to drive north of Lake Superior and continue on through Canada.  We’ve never been past Nipigon at the top of the lake, and are looking forward to seeing the more remote Canadian side of Lake Superior. Having allowed extra time, we can linger and explore along the way and maybe even do a bike ride or two.

Logistically, I think we’re ready.  We’ve done enough cycling trips to know what we need to bring.  We’re physically fit and have plenty of cycling miles behind us.  Our bikes have been in for maintenance, and have an assortment of fresh new parts.  We’ve increased our stock of spare tires and repair tools.  And we have quality gear.  Yes, we’re in good shape there.

Mentally, are we ready?  This summer has been so busy that we really haven’t had time to focus on the reality of this cycling trip until now.  Sure, we planned the route, digested the magnitude of the distance, took a deep breath and enthusiastically exclaimed “Yes, let’s do it!”  But I don’t think the reality of spending two months or more on our bicycles has really sunk in.  Spending all that time traveling, just the two of us.  Pedaling through good weather and bad, uphill and down, with the wind and against it.  Deciding day by day where we will go next.  How far and where we will stay.  For all that time.  Two months or more.

The novelty of the plan has carried us this far.  It’s been great fun to talk about the trip, visualize ourselves out there on the edge of the continent, and tackling an unfathomable distance on two wheels. Perhaps that’s enough. It’s better to go into it feeling the thrill of the challenge, rather than worrying the details.

We’ll have plenty of time to think about it in the car.  But I’d rather concentrate on the sights along the way.  After all, it’s a trip in its own right, the prelude to Gaspé.  And I’m ready to go!

Chasing the Tall Ships

History does not always repeat itself.  Last time the Tall Ships came to Duluth, they mustered out along the North ShoreSunrise straightened then sailed down toward the canal for the Parade of Ships.  It seemed reasonable enough to us that they would follow the same pattern this year.  We were so convinced, in fact, that we got up at 5am to see if we could catch them against the shore in the early morning glow of the sunrise.  Well, we saw a nice sunrise at any rate.  Just no ships.

Undeterred, we mounted our bicycles and headed up the shore once again around mid-day.  This time we stopped at McQuade Harbor to wait for the ships to appear.  We could see two of them in the distance – indistinct forms but unmistakably sailing ships.  It was a beautiful day and we didn’t mind hanging around waiting for the others to appear.  Only they didn’t.  A quick phone call to our daughter, who was down at Canal Park with her family, revealed that the remaining seven ships were plying the waters in front of them, awaiting their grand entrance.  Missed again!

We hustled down to Canal Park as fast as we could pedal, thankful that we were on two wheels not four as we slid past the heavy traffic.  We still arrived in plenty of time for the show.  In fact, we beat the two ships we’d been monitoring out on the lake.  The area was crowded with people, creating an air of festivity and the excitement was building as the time approached for the ships to sail through the canal.

The pier on the far side of the bridge proved to be the best spot for taking pictures – both for the position of the sun and for the smaller crowds lending easier access to the edge of the canal.  It was the perfect day to be outside and no one minded waiting between the waves of ships that passed under the bridge.  Conversation flowed easily between groups of strangers, brought together for the fun of watching big sailing ships.  We finally settled in to watch the Parade of Ships and photograph the beautiful vessels.  This time we were not disappointed.  And our chase was over. IMG_1594 IMG_1601IMG_1619 IMG_1622