Jasper, in the rain

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Today the mountains disappeared. Rain and low clouds obliterated the peaks we have come to love seeing as a backdrop to everything here. And it posed a question – what to do on a rainy day in Jasper? The Info Center had plenty of ideas for us, and we were divided on the opinion of hiking in the rain. The answer was to divide and conquer – Erik and I went ahead with the original plan to hike to Christine Lake just outside of Jasper, while Rich enjoyed a quiet and dry morning relaxing in our cabin.

Erik at Christine Lake

Decked out in our rain gear we set off down the trail. Soon the trees overhead sheltered us from the bulk of the raindrops, and we found the hike to be quite pleasant. Once again, the nature of the environs were different, this time a less dense forest of pines with a lot of undergrowth. The spring green was a brilliant color and we found the wild flowers to be more advanced in blooming there, including Indian Paintbrush. There were actually three lakes at the terminus, but we liked Christine Lake the best for its tiny islands, outcroppings of rock and pine surroundings. While visiting Virl Lake, the clouds lifted enough to give us a glimpse of the mountains in the background. We returned with wet feet, mainly from thrashing through bushes to avoid some soggy parts of the trail, but definitely glad we had not let the rain deter us from our hike.

In the afternoon, the rain appeared to be abating, so we headed over to Maligne Canyon. The trail along the waterway had the feel of a tourist attraction, with it’s wide proportions and some paved portions. But the views of the deep cavern and tumultuous waterfalls made it worth sharing the trail with others. There were excellent interpretive signs along the way, and helped us understand the complex system of underground water flows that fed the river. Our enjoyment of the spectacle was greatly enhanced by the sun’s reappearance during our visit and the veil lifting on the mountains.

The evening turned out to be very nice indeed. We unwittingly chose a restaurant that was on the second floor, which afforded wonderful views out over the other buildings of Jasper’s main street. Even the mountains decided to reappear.

Experiencing the Icefields Parkway

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Peyto Lake

“It’s a scenic drive, not a transportation corridor.” So states the Parks Canada brochure of the Icefields Parkway. Perhaps that’s why the 140 mile route from Lake Louise to Jasper took us 10 hours. The scenery alone was cause for diversion, and there were plenty of turnouts and viewpoints to indulge our appetite for views of the surrounding mountains, rivers, lakes and woods. A favorite stop was the overlook at Peyto Lake. The deep hues of its blue green water contrasting with the snow capped mountains and a bit of luck with the sunlight provided us with an astounding sight.

View from Wilcox Pass

Of course, we did take time to do a few select hikes along the way. Our first was at Wilcox Pass, and proved that every hiking experience has its own unique flavor. This time we followed a ridge line high above the highway. It was wide open terrain, open to the wind, but providing constant views of the peaks around us. Passing above the tree line and into the meadow which formed the mountain pass, we were once again in the land of snow. We managed to continue forward progress crossing the snowy patches by literally following in the deep footsteps of earlier hikers. A few mis-steps revealed just how deep the snow really was! We ultimately reached a rocky pinnacle that provided a 360 degree panorama of snowy peaks. To travel beyond would have required snowshoes, and we were not that well prepared (but we did meet some hikers earlier who were – now we know why!). We took on our fill of the scene, took an abundance of photos, and mutually agreed that we had reached the far extent of our travels for that hike.

Stanley Falls

Or second hike was a hidden gem. Its only marking from the highway was a little hiker sign, and the initial path did not seem to hold much promise. But the Information Center guide had assured us there were six waterfalls, and he didn’t let us down. We soon came upon the lowest of Stanley Falls on Beauty Creek, and were captivated. The thundering creek had cut a deep gourge into the rocks, and the water tore downhill and around bends. We followed the trail upstream, marveling at how perilously close to the edge one could venture – it both afforded excellent views and invited danger. We did indeed find six falls, although it was almost continuous waterfall. It was a hike well worth doing, yet we didn’t meet anyone else on the trail.

Finally, as we closed in on Jasper, our progress was further delayed by wildlife. What appeared to be a long pileup of cars at the side of the road up ahead turned out to be motorists gawking at a black bear. There he was, along side the road, leisurely eating and ambling along. Naturally we joined the throng and took our share of pictures. The next encounter was a gray wolf, frustrated in his attempt to cross the road, and we tracked him just barely in the woods (from the car) until he moved further inland. Our last encounter was with three elk on a smaller road, and they made it clear that they owned the roadway as they crossed in front of us.

Sometimes drives are not meant to be rushed. This was one of them.

Glacier Lake Trail

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Rich and Erik on the Glacier Lake Trail

We could have been on a hiking trail in northern Minnesota. We traveled over well worn ground carpeted by pine needles, deep in a green forest with only the earliest spring wild flowers displaying their colors. Sunshine streaked through the branches, showering us with light only when the canopy allowed it through. Sounds of rushing water in overflowing spring streams were easily confused with the rustle of the wind in the treetops overhead.

View from the trail

But as soon as a broader vista was available, the myth was dispelled and it was obvious we were in the Canadian Rockies. All it took was a bit of a break in the trees to see the snow covered peaks beyond. But even better were the overlooks, where we could see mountains in all directions. And every time we saw them, it felt new to us all over again. An amazing vista.

Today we were blessed with sunshine, blue sky and a return to summer! It helped that we followed the knowledgeable advice gained at the Information Center in Lake Louise and chose a hike at a lower elevation, known to be snow-free early in the season. It was a 9 km hike to Glacier Lake, which was over rolling terrain with one long climb up to a high ridge and then down to the shores of the lake. The spring runoff overwhelmed the trail at times, sending us scrambling for footholds or into the surrounding brush in an attempt to keep our feet dry.

Arriving at Glacier LakeBut arriving at the lake was the best part of all. We emerged from the woods to the shores of a turquoise blue lake ringed by snowy mountains. And not another sole in sight. We had a picnic lunch on the rocky beach, soaking up the sun and the view. A bit of quick exploration revealed Campsite viewbeautiful campsites right on the lake shore, and left us envious of others who would be staying the night in such a gorgeous location. We would all have traded our comfy cabin for a tent on the lake in a heartbeat. Even after significant lingering time, it was all we could do to tear ourselves away and begin our return trip. But then, it’s always better to leave wanting more.

Hiking Lake Louise and beyond

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The “snow fall” theme for this trip continues, although today it came in the form of snow falling down the mountainside – an avalanche! But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Our destination for today’s hike was the Plain of Six Glaciers. We started off alongside the popular Lake Louise. One can see why its clear blue green water surrounded by mountain peaks is such a draw, but we were happier when we continued beyond the populated tourist trails and ventured into the wilderness areas. We passed through pine forest, followed rushing water, looked up sheer rock faces, and picked our way on rocky footings and across deep snowy fields. As Erik commented, “This is what I came for!”

Tea House at Six Glaciers

The reward for our efforts was reaching a Tea House on the mountainside. It had only been open for a week so far this season, and the staff willingly answered all our questions about how they get supplies up there (answer, helicopter drops once a season plus pack horses). We settled ourselves at a bright red table on the log balcony of the stone building, and savored outstanding soup and home made bread, flavor enhanced by the outdoor experience.

We did quite well in the wildlife department, spotting mountain goats, a marmot, porcupine, Clark’s Nutcracker, and even a mama Grizzly bear and two cubs. The latter were far across the lake, but we followed their progress along the entire shoreline.

Snow resting at the foot of the avalanche

There were signs warning hikers of avalanche danger in the area, and in fact, we could hear and see them up high on the distant mountains. It was on our return trip that the experience became distinctly personal. Just before crossing a large snow field, we heard the telltale sounds, and there directly in front of us was an avalanche, spewing snow above our trail! It looked just like a waterfall coming down the mountain, but the spray and masses of moving moisture were snow not water. The accumulated mounds of snow formed large snowballs that slid down the slope in a very liquid manner. It was fascinating to watch, even though it threatened to cover our path. We watched in amazement, as it poured on and on, wondering if and when it would be safe for us to continue. It eventually came to rest well above our path, and we high tailed it across, only to see it reactivate when we reached the other side.

Day 2 in the Canadian Rockies – never a dull moment.

Oh no – Snow!

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We’d seen the weather forecast. We were prepared for wet conditions, given the 90% chance of rain. But snow never even entered our minds. Not far into our journey away from Calgary toward Banff, the raindrops assumed a thicker, fatter quality and the realization of what we were seeing dawned on us all at once.Snow in CanmoreBy the time we reached Canmore and stopped for lunch, the accumulation was undeniable. Trees were straining under their heavy white burden, and green grass had been replaced by a snowy blanket. We settled into a local restaurant, enjoyed exceptionally good food, and had a good laugh at Mother Nature’s joke. Rainy weather was just unpleasant. But snowy weather on June 9 was an adventure.

 

If we learned anything about the Canadian Rockies today, it was how quickly conditions could change. Water rushing through Johnston CanyonWe gradually left the snowfall behind, replacing it with drippy skies, clouds, and the occasional burst of sunlight. Hiking through Johnston Canyon, we managed to stay mostly dry while marveling at the thunderous volumes of water plummeting down the river. The brown swirling current raced by at a torrential pace, exceeding the boundaries of its normal banks, and showering us with spray at its waterfalls.

View near Lake LouiseTraveling the Bow Valley Parkway to Lake Louise, we were rewarded by lifting clouds that rose enough for us to see the towering mountains beyond the pine trees lining the road. The dark formations of the peaks, largely covered in snow were majestic and particularly stunning in contrast with the greens of the pines and the growing blue patches of sky beyond. We were surrounded by mountains in all directions, alternately materializing and slipping away behind swirling clouds. We finally knew we had arrived – Canadian Rockies, Day 1. Snow and all.

Canadian Rockies here we come!

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We are about to embark on the third and final College Graduation Trip!  Diplomas were handed out Memorial Day weekend and the new job begins July 9, so this is our son Erik’s final hurrah and our special time together before he heads out into the “real world.”

The destination is the Canadian Rockies, and the focus will be on hiking in the mountains.  Erik’s choice is one of those featured in National Geographic’s Drives of a Lifetime: 500 of the World’s Most Spectacular Trips.  That’s a pretty good recommendation, even if he didn’t know it when he made his selection.  After months of research, countless visits to TripAdvisor, and reading way too many reviews, we have all our reservations and are ready to depart on Saturday.  Here is the basic plan:

  • Arrive in Calgary and immediately head up the Icefields Parkway
  • 3 nights in Lake Louise, hiking in Banff National Park
  • 4 nights in Jasper, hiking in Jasper National Park, with a side-trip to Mt. Robson Provincial Park
  • 1 final night in Banff, then return home

The goal was to limit moving around and maximize time spent outdoors.  We also chose accommodations in simple cabins.  Erik would have preferred “back country” lodgings, which require hiking in to reach them.  That sounded like great fun, but the timing of our trip precluded such adventure, as they do not open until later in the season (something about snow conditions…).

If time, inclination and internet connections permit, I hope to blog along the way.  But there is also something to be said for unplugging.  If it comes to choosing between an evening bonfire and blogging, I  already know which will win.

Tour de Pepin

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“You cycled all the way around Lake Pepin?” was the astonished reaction. Yes, and we had a great time doing it!  The Tour de Pepin is just that – a 72 mile cycling tour (not race) around the famed widening in the Mississippi River that is known as Lake Pepin.  The ride provided prolific panoramic views of the lake, charming historic towns, impressive river bluffs, and beautiful spring flowers along the route.  In a word, scenic. And we had a gloriously sunny day on which to enjoy the whole experience.

Coming from a background of running marathons, I had to readjust my expectations in terms of event logistics for a cycling tour.  Rather than traveling on a closed course, we shared the local 2-lane highways circling the lake with car traffic.  However, my skepticism was quickly allayed, finding generous shoulders on nearly the whole route, which provided a comfortable margin for cyclists.  Instead of rushing through water stops for only enough time to sip without choking, we took advantage of the rest stops to dismount, wiggle any stiffness out of our bodies, refill our water bottles, grab a snack and chat with other cyclists.  Socializing was half the fun!  There were no mile markers to chart our progress, but the route was well signed and mileage was posted at each rest stop.  Besides, we had our Garmin GPS watches to tell us how far we’d come.  The one odd dissimilarity came at the end. While we didn’t expect roaring crowds or need a finisher’s medal, we did feel a sense of let-down finding only a few leftover refreshments on a small table dwarfed by the event awning – and not a single person.  Granted, we had been well supported along the way, but we were looking forward to that final opportunity to exchange experiences with other participants.  Perhaps such is the nature of tours, where the two-hour starting window narrows the flow of finishers down to a dribble.

The course had a reasonable number of hills on the Wisconsin side.  But there was a distinct stand-out.  Just one look at the elevations of the course makes it obvious…

Personally, I think this view overstates the case – yes, it was long and steep, but it was very doable, even for a new cyclist like myself.  But it does make for a dramatic story!  And best of all, the rest stop on the other side featured free ice cream cones, courtesy of Flat Pennies Ice Cream in Bay City.  That was the best ice cream we’ve ever tasted!

For cyclists wanting the scenery, but not the full distance, there are 32-mile and 50-mile routes available.  They also feature a ride on the Pearl of the Lake Paddlewheel boat across Lake Pepin back to the start.  And I’m sure it’s no coincidence that they don’t have to do that monster hill.  But they miss out on the ice cream.

Finding Inspiration

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I’ve been displaced this week.  Voluntarily.  I’ve been spending my days in the home of my daughter and her husband, taking care of their new baby and her older brother while my daughter returned to her 2nd grade classroom to complete the year with her students.  As a result, I was in a “foreign” environment, without access to my own familiar resources.  But what a benefit – I made some wonderful discoveries and came away with new sources of inspiration.

My first find was a book called Heroes for My Son by Brad Meltzer.  It was a small book, lying on the coffee table, almost disguised among the assortment of children’s books.  I picked it up and was immediately taken with the premise and content of the book.  It is a collection of 52 individuals, hand selected by Meltzer for their virtues and talents, as life examples for his son.  Its beauty is in its simplicity.  Each entry is comprised of a single black and white photo, and a few concise sentences that capture the qualities that define the individual.  And finally, a quote by or about the hero.  Many, not all, are famous, and each is selected for a character trait not a specific accomplishment.  It is a book to be savored, but I found myself wanting to read on to the next, and the next.  The inspiration it contained was heart-warming and lasting, as the stories were so memorable.

Next was music.  Thumbing through the iPod connected to the music system, I selected the album Just Relax: Mexico by Lifescapes.  The music was calming yet with nice variety, unlike some of the other more boisterous selections on the device, and made for good listening.  It turns out that Lifescapes is a series of music CDs developed for Target Corporation, which in all honesty was a bit of a turn-off for me.  But reading more, I discovered that it started with a small group of musicians from the Twin Cities area, who “came together with one mission in mind… to create a fresh and authentic music collection tuned to everyday life.”  Where the inspiration comes in is their message that followed: “Think of your life as a film where you’re the lead character in your movie. Every day you live your life in big and small ways, through seasons of change, through good times and hard times, through passing moments and memories that’ll last forever.”  I scoured the website, trying to discern just who those original artists were, and which were the initial CDs, but they left no clues.  Still, I’m interested enough to check out other titles and artists in the series.

Not bad for a week spent largely in the absence of other adults!

Running Grandma

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Two years ago, I ran Grandma’s IMG_5966Marathon as a grandma for the first time.  I proudly emblazoned the fact on my running top, and enjoyed the resulting cheers along the way.  It was a great – no grand – variation on a race that was otherwise an annual affair for me.  And stopping to kiss the baby at mile 21 just before Lemon Drop Hill was definitely a timely energy boost.

Yesterday I was a running Grandma as well, only this time it was behind my second grandchild.  I wasn’t chasing her, I was pushing.  What a great invention these running IMG_7953strollers are!  They glide with ease, turn on a dime (not always where I intend, however), and absorb all the curbs and bumps I might find along the way.  Best of all, they turn drivers into the most polite and accommodating citizens I’ve ever seen. Perhaps it was the wiry but distinctly gray haired runner piloting the stroller that compelled them to stop and grant me priority to proceed at every intersection.  I was fortunate that at two months, the baby wasn’t much of a payload and we managed a good pace.  But I still managed to convince myself that I was getting more workout per mile.

This grandma has plenty of good reasons to keep on running.  And maybe one day it will be with those grandchildren at my side!