Acadia Rain or Shine

Posted on August 10, 2013 by Molly

Acadia National Park was high on our list of sights to see as we cycled the Maine coast. So we allowed a day and a half there for hiking and exploring its natural beauty. Everyone had different interests and priorities, so we split up and

Our first afternoon was a continuation of the bright sunny weather we'd enjoyed all week. Carl and I took advantage of the clear skies to hike up to the top of Cadillac Mountain to take in the views. We had planned to take the easiest route to the top, but somewhere our logistics went awry. When we set off from our starting point, the gentle climb quickly turned into a steep ascent. Clambering up boulders and clutching sheer rocks while I tried to traverse them, I became certain it was not what I signed up for. But going back down seemed the worse option, so I persevered. Fortunately, either the terrain improved slightly, or I became more adept at climbing and my comfort level increased with our progress. I'm certain Carl could have scampered up the trail in half the time, but he patiently stuck with me and surreptitiously ensured I didn't take a tumble. And that route certainly had breathtaking views on the way up, when I dared to turn around and look.

The view from the top was indeed spectacular. Being the tallest point in the park, we could see in almost all directions. Ocean, coastline, boats, forests, lakes and rock everywhere we looked. We tried hard to ignore the hoards of other tourists who had driven to the top and dominated the scene. In our minds, hiking was the best way to enjoy the summit.

Molly and Carl at the top of Cadillac Mountain

Our second day brought the first rain of our trip. Not to be deterred, we still ventured out to hike. The Ocean Trail attracted several of us, with its craggy shoreline and cliffs. Hiking in Acadia seems to be synonymous with walking on rocks, and that trail was no exception. It offered plenty of shoreline rocks for walking across. Myra and I preferred the fact that the direction was horizontal not vertical.

Carl, on the other hand, was enamored with the climbs that offered real vertical ascent. He scaled the Precipice, loving the challenge of the climb. It didn't matter that the views were obscured. Achieving the summit was reward enough for him. It definitely was not the climb for me. Just seeing his pictures made me nervous.

For a group of outdoor enthusiasts, Acadia was a great match. We barely scratched the surface of all the park had to offer. Although we did manage to fit in a bit of cycling getting to and from our hikes. After all, we're on a cycling tour.

Hugging the Coast of Maine

Posted on August 7, 2013 by Molly

Progress to date: 4 day, 220 miles

Over the last four days and 220 miles of cycling, we have made it over half way up the state. And we've done our best to get as many ocean views as possible. In the beginning, we were able to cycle along beaches and see sweeping expanses of the Atlantic. But moving northward, the craggy shoreline has so many inlets and bays that there are few places where the road can actually parallel the coast. Even so, the ocean inevitably dominates our daily travels.

Each bay and river we cross brings us to another bridge. Just like road repair season in Minnesota, we have discovered a number of bridges closed for repairs. That can mean a detour, a shuttle for bikes, or just sneaking across. Other bridges border on the spectacular. But what looks good from a distance can be intimidating to cross on a bicycle – to me anyway. The others appear to have no such qualms.

Cyclists crossing a closed bridge

Penobscot Narrows Bridge

The inlets invariably host harbor towns, which are a delight. We never tire of the marinas filled with boats of all shapes and sizes glistening in the sun. And when venturing out for dinner in the evenings, we search for outdoor patios with views of the harbor.

Harbor view at Damariscotta

Harbor view at Damariscotta

The main tourist route north through Maine is Highway 1. We've tried hard to avoid it, with its heavy traffic and big trucks. Whenever possible, we venture off on smaller roads with less traffic. Our reward has been to cycle down quiet tree lined lanes, winding through rural areas with beautiful homes and quaint towns. Often we have been able to peer through the yards to catch a glimpse of the ocean beyond. But everything comes at a cost. Side roads tend to follow the contours of the land more than the big highways. Here in Maine that translates to frequent and steep hills. There is no doubt, we are getting quite a workout each day!

It's not all about the scenery, though. Between the miles of cycling we have found plenty of opportunity for fun along the way. All while hugging the coastline.

Off with a Bang!

Posted on August 3, 2013 by Molly

Today's the day. The start of the Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour! As planned, we started from Exeter Academy in New Hampshire, and ceremoniously cycled away from our car through campus. Naturally, we stopped for the obligatory group photo, pressing a passing student into service as photographer. Suddenly, a loud shot rang out – BANG! – startling everyone. It was Rich's front inner tube, which spontaneously blew out! The first road repair of the trip was staring us in the face. Just .6 miles into our ride. At least it was an aesthetically pleasing place to do the work.

Fortunately, the remainder of the day's ride proceeded without further incident. We covered a mere 19 miles due to the complexity of scheduling everyone's arrival at the start, but that gave the day a relaxed feel. Taking back roads we traveled through beautiful neighborhoods and pretty towns, admiring the gardens and extensive landscaping which was at its summer peak. Conversation flowed easily up and back the column of four riders, as we cycled the quiet roads. It was hard to believe that this was the real thing. Despite breaking out the official trip jerseys, and and putting the panniers on our bikes, it all felt a bit surreal. Perhaps reality will sink in tomorrow when we have some serious miles to cover.

We did manage to do a little sightseeing. Reaching Portsmouth, we found it bustling with activity, and walked our bicycles through the busy downtown area on the water taking it all in. Restaurants, shops and plenty of tourists thronged the streets. The Eagle, the Coast Guard Tall Ship was in town, so we took time to check it out as well.

Having traveled over the bridge to Kittery, we're barely into Maine, but it's a start. A good start – big bang and all.

The cyclists - Myra, Carl, Rich and Molly

Grand Gaspé Tour – Cast of Characters

Posted on August 2, 2013 by Molly

With the start of our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour just one day away, it seems appropriate to introduce the intrepid cyclists who are taking the plunge on this great adventure. It’s worth noting at the outset that there are two classes cyclists here. Two of us are doing the whole kahuna. We’re the crazy ones anticipating traveling and carrying all our worldly goods for two months and over 2,000 miles on our bicycles. We are the ones venturing into the Canadian Maritimes with only a general route in mind and several detours already under consideration. The other two are more sane. They are merely tackling the first 500 miles with us along the coast of Maine, with hotel reservations already in place, guaranteeing a shower and dry bed at the end of each day. Either way, it’s going to be a Grand Tour.

Rich – Full Route

This was all his idea. My husband is the veteran of five past cycling tours, all but one self-planned. He loves playing travel agent, researching the details and making the reservations. In fact, he has dreamed up far more future trips than we could ever execute. Rich is a steady cyclist who detests hills (especially with loaded panniers) and loves the thrill of plummeting downhill. He embraces sightseeing stops on his cycling tours, sometimes to the consternation of his fellow cyclists. A Northern Pike shaped car and vivid purple cow are mere examples. He’s also an avid photographer, so photo opps are valid reasons to tarry along the way.

Most looking forward to: Seeing the next “purple cow”

Biggest worry: How my body will hold up over 2,000 miles of cycling

Molly – Full Route

That’s me. I was cajoled into trying cycling by Rich a mere 19 months ago. I wasn’t sure i wanted to trade marathon running for cycling. But following my first trip I was hooked. I’ve now completed two long distance bike tours and despite the audacity of this itinerary I was quick to agree to the plan. My cycling style tends to be more intense. I’m not one to dawdle. I like to push the pace, put the miles behind me and have to be convinced to stop and smell the flowers. Rich and I probably balance each other out pretty well – he makes sure we have fun along the way and I make sure we get to our destination.

Most looking forward to: The coastline, with its cliffs, waves and lighthouses

Biggest worry: Cycling in heavy rain

Carl – Maine Only

Carl is our middle child. He has always prided himself on making his own decisions. While the rest of the family played the accordion (that’s another story), he adamantly stuck to guitar and banjo. In a family of marathon runners, Carl pursued serious cycling. Interesting that now two of us have come around. Carl has done two long distance cycling trips, one being a father-son tour with Rich. So he knows what he’s getting into on this trip. Carl has the only road bike among three touring style bikes in the group – still the individual. He’s also the fastest among us. And to be fair, the has the youngest legs by 30 years. We’ll see if he forges ahead or stays with the pack.

Most looking forward to: Acadia National Park

Biggest worry: I am bit unsure about what it will be like biking in a group of four people when everyone probably is used to going at different paces.

Myra – Maine Only

Myra’s still wondering how she ended up on this trip. She’s been a friend of mine since Jr High, and in an era when few sports were available to girls in school Myra played them all. So it’s no surprise that she’s been cycling for years, and when I took it up we discovered we were well matched. To date we’ve logged two century rides together. It was only in casual conversation about the trip that I threw out the idea that she join us, and with little hesitation she committed. This is Myra’s maiden long distance bike tour. But I’m not concerned. Myra is able to keep up both a solid pace and a steady conversation for miles and miles. And she always seems to have the energy to go farther – as long as she’s well fed.

Most looking forward to: Just getting out and riding through beautiful country and enjoying it from a bicycle.

Biggest worry: How many bagels should I bring and how will I keep them fresh and how much will they weigh?

Tomorrow this motley crew will gather in Exeter, New Hampshire to begin our ride together. Look out sea coast, here we come!

Gaspé Prelude

Posted on July 28, 2013 by Molly

I’ve checked and double checked my detailed list. My panniers are packed with my cycling clothes and gear. My duffel bag is full of all the things I’ll need on the drive. Food and picnic items are prepared for the journey. Ancillary items are poised to go into the car. Are we ready to go?

Today we start the trip to the beginning of the trip – driving from Duluth out to New Hampshire for our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour. We have decided to drive north of Lake Superior and continue on through Canada. We’ve never been past Nipigon at the top of the lake, and are looking forward to seeing the more remote Canadian side of Lake Superior. Having allowed extra time, we can linger and explore along the way and maybe even do a bike ride or two.

Logistically, I think we’re ready. We’ve done enough cycling trips to know what we need to bring. We’re physically fit and have plenty of cycling miles behind us. Our bikes have been in for maintenance, and have an assortment of fresh new parts. We’ve increased our stock of spare tires and repair tools. And we have quality gear. Yes, we’re in good shape there.

Mentally, are we ready? This summer has been so busy that we really haven’t had time to focus on the reality of this cycling trip until now. Sure, we planned the route, digested the magnitude of the distance, took a deep breath and enthusiastically exclaimed “Yes, let’s do it!” But I don’t think the reality of spending two months or more on our bicycles has really sunk in. Spending all that time traveling, just the two of us. Pedaling through good weather and bad, uphill and down, with the wind and against it. Deciding day by day where we will go next. How far and where we will stay. For all that time. Two months or more.

The novelty of the plan has carried us this far. It’s been great fun to talk about the trip, visualize ourselves out there on the edge of the continent, and tackling an unfathomable distance on two wheels. Perhaps that’s enough. It’s better to go into it feeling the thrill of the challenge, rather than worrying the details.

We’ll have plenty of time to think about it in the car. But I’d rather concentrate on the sights along the way. After all, it’s a trip in its own right, the prelude to Gaspé. And I’m ready to go!

Gaspé – The Ultimate Cycling Tour

Posted on June 26, 2013 by Molly

It’s been in the planning stages for months. I’ve alluded to it in several previous posts. It’s only just over a month away. So I think it’s time to elaborate on our plans for our most extensive cycling trip yet – The Grand Gaspé Tour.

This trip is Rich’s brain child. That’s nothing new, he plans most of our adventures. But the sheer magnitude of this one makes it unique.

The inspiration is his missed opportunity to take a college graduation trip. While his friends piled into old cars to cruise the USA, Rich dove right into work at his first job. It’s a decision he came to regret, and one he expects to rectify with this trip. Having taken all three of our children on graduation trips when they finished college, now it’s Rich’s turn.

Our route through Maine, New Brunswick, the Gaspé Peninsula, Quebec City and New Hampshire

Since we are now both retired, we have plenty of time. Rich took that concept literally and dreamed up a 2-month, 2,000 mile trip through the Canadian Maritimes. When he proposed it, I jumped right on board. After all, it combined my passion for fitness and love of travel.

The idea is to take small roads and hug the coastline as closely as possible, taking in the stunning scenery. It must be our Duluth upbringing – we just can’t get enough of coastline and water views. We will also visit Quebec City for the first time.

For the first week our son, Carl, and my high school friend, Myra, will be cycling with us as we travel up the cost of Maine. That week is well scripted, with reservations already in place at small motels along the way. We plan to spend an extra day in Acadia National Park, and reach the border of Canada by the week’s end.

From there on, we’re on our own. And it’s all virgin territory. We’ve never cycled with such an open agenda and flexibility before. We know that if we maintain our normal pace, doing about 60 miles a day, we could complete the route in under 6 weeks, even taking one rest day per week. But the idea isn’t to just cover the miles. We have enough extra time to allow spontaneous side trips. If we like a place, we can stay longer. If the weather turns rotten, we can wait it out. Even our end date is loose – we can extend that too, if we choose.

Some of our kids keep wondering just why we’d want to do this. Who in their right minds would spend two months on a bicycle with only the contents of their paniers? We just smile and nod, looking forward to the challenge and seeing the countryside up close, at cycling pace.

So come August and September that’s where we’ll be. On the Grand Gaspé Tour. You can’t miss us. We’ll be the ones sporting the lighthouses.

Two Techie Cyclists

Posted on May 29, 2013 by Molly

We admit it. We love our technology. My husband, Rich, and I are avid cyclists and have taken to doing long distance cycling trips. We love the slower pace and more engaged style of travel that it encourages. We have mastered the art of traveling light, even when camping. And that includes our techie toys.

First on the list are our Garmin GPS watches. We haven’t updated them in years, but perhaps that’s not such a bad thing. Although the older models are much bulkier, they have bigger displays for our aging eyes. We wouldn’t dream of going for a ride without them. They not only display our mileage, pace and time as we go, but when we get home we download them to SportTracks where we can view our route on a map, and analyze other data ad nauseam.

That brings us to the next item – our tablets. Absolutely essential. In addition to blogging (of course!), we download all our photos each night, to edit and organize them. And of course we use email, maps and other apps. They are the most economical use of space for any device we bring – particularly as they allow us to read an unlimited number of books along the way.

Smartphones are our lifeline while we’re gone. We don’t use them much during the day, but they are there if we need them, and keep us connected to family back home. And then there are the maps. Rich can download Google Maps locally on his Android phone ahead of time, and even without a cell connection he can use GPS to pinpoint us on a map and clarify where we really are. Or where we need to go. It has saved us many a wrong turn.

Not bad, just three devices each. But now that we’ve taken to doing longer trips and camping, we face new challenges. Our Garmins only store a limited amount of data – four full days is about the max mine will hold before the detail gets written over. Even if we trade off using them on alternate days, it’s still not enough. Enter Sportablet. It’s an Android app that Rich has loaded on his Nexus 10 tablet, and now we can both download all our GPS data nightly and save it for the duration of the trip. It works like a dream! So we have our data licked. (And to give Android its due, clearly there are some things it does much better than Apple – handling external data is one of them.)

Power is not an issue when staying in motels, but what about when camping? We turned to solar power on our last trip, using the SolarMonkey Adventurer. I strapped it onto my sleeping bag to charge during our ride in the daytime, and at night we were able to recharge two Garmin GPS watches, two cell phones, and it still had additional power capacity. At 15 oz, we deemed it worth carrying. Power solved, at least if the sun shines…

Our next trip will be 2,000 miles long, and will keep us on our bicycles up to two months. Sunshine and satellites willing, and the occasional internet connection, we will be happy techies.

A Perfect Cycling Grand Finale

Posted on May 25, 2013 by Molly

Day 8 – Northfield to Shakopee 48 miles

Our last day of the Upper Mississippi River Cycling Tour. Even after seven straight days of cycling, I was sad to see our trip nearing completion. On the other hand, I was eagerly looking forward to the 30th Wedding Anniversary Celebration that awaited us at the end of the road.

It wasn’t the most beautiful day, with clouds overhead and temperatures in the low 50s, but a day earlier the forecast was for rain, so I considered it a good day! The winds had picked up too, but fortunately they were mostly behind us – a treat after all the headwinds we’ve had on this trip.

My head was definitely in a different place today. It wasn’t the same as the other days of our tour, when we were fully in the mode, taking in all the sights and making the most of the journey. Today was really all about the destination. Sure the farms were picturesque, we enjoyed the cows and horses in their pastures, and we had a tasty stop at Patty’s Place for a snack in New Prague. But we were eager to reach the end.

The closer we got to the outskirts of the Twin Cities, the more the farmhouses looked like suburban homes. They looked a bit incongruous in the center of large working farms. We encountered our first lake with about 10 miles to go. We’d seen plenty of rivers and ponds, but no true Minnesota lakes. We were zeroing in on home territory.

As planned, we rode to our daughter’s house where all of our children, grandchildren and a few close friends were gathered. We had a lively welcoming party, as they cheered us down the final street to the house. The afternoon was pure enjoyment, surrounded by those we love. It was filled with much laughter, many hugs, good food and warm feelings.Our kids collaborated on not only the party, but the entertainment. In true Brewer style (ie my family’s tradition) they collectively authored an epic poem, which they recited with great animation to commemorate our lives together – meeting, dating, marrying, birthing and parenting. It was an amazing piece of work and an hysterical tribute. Karen upheld her theme cake decorating reputation, producing Cake Cones in honor of our detour to the Dairy Queen after our wedding 30 years ago. That called for a re-creation of the scene when we arrived at our reception, cones in hand, linking arms to lick them!

The tour is finished, but the memories will live on. We had many great moments on our trip – met wonderful people, worked through cycling challenges, appreciated beautiful scenery and appreciated experiencing it all up close from the seat of a bicycle. But the best memories will be holding tight to our family members and friends at the grand finale. It was just perfect.

Dallying through Southern Minnesota

Posted on May 24, 2013 by Molly

Day 7 - Mantorville to Northfield 47 miles

We emerged from our tent out into a clear crisp morning. The sun was already warming the chilly air, but not before we noticed the frost on the picnic tables! We stuck to the sunshine as we packed up our sleeping bags and tent, drying them out from the heavy dew as best we could. It felt good to be outside and moving, and we deemed the camping experience a complete success.

We knew we had a shorter ride than usual today, due to having altered our route yesterday. And with the change in wind direction, we had a tailwind for a change to help us make good time. So we allowed ourselves a leisurely breakfast at the coffeehouse, which had the added benefit of wireless Internet. That set the pace for our day. With brilliant sunshine, reasonably warm temperatures and quiet local roads, it was easy to enjoy our surroundings and stop for frequent photo sessions. We passed through a number of nice little towns, and the farmland became picturesque once more. I decided to focus on capturing images of Middle America, or America's Breadbasket as Rich likes to call it in honor of his family's farming heritage.

We took a short detour to visit Nerstrand-Big Woods State Park. There the main attraction is the woods, which is the largest remaining portion of the hardwood forest that once covered Central Minnesota. A short hike took us to Hidden Falls, which was both pretty and peaceful. We were sure we could see a secondary falls under the main flow, probably from water seeping through the limestone. Spring was in full force and the woods were filled with new blooming wildflowers. It was a nice respite from our cycling.

While Rich stopped for a snack in Nerstrand, I ventured down the street to take a few photos. Imagine my surprise when a motorcycle stopped alongside me, and its rider asked where to find Rich! Who the heck could that be? It turned out to be Randy, our host for the evening. We were staying in another Warm Showers home, and knowing our route, Randy decided to swing by and see how we were getting along. We shared a good laugh over that, got advice on the best roads to take, and Rich happily handed over a sleeping bag and tent for Randy to transport. Being a purist – for whatever silly reasons – I held out and continued to schlep my gear.

It was an easy peddle up to Northfield, where we quickly settled into comfortable accommodations with Randy and his wife, Lois. Admittedly, after camping the shower was especially welcome. Although Northfield is a nice town with plenty to explore, the idea of having time to relax proved to be a greater draw. We enjoyed a good meal and sharing stories with our hosts, and were happy to continue dallying right on into the evening.

Have Tent Will Travel

Posted on May 24, 2013 by Molly

Day 5 - Chatfield to Mantorville 56 miles

Day 6 – Chatfield to Mantorville 56 miles

We finally did it. We are camping tonight. Just not where we thought we’d be. Instead of returning to the Mississippi River Road and staying in Lake City tonight, our route took a sudden turn to the West. We continued in that direction to Mantorville. Not even on my map.

The day started innocently enough, and with a wonderful diversion before we even began cycling. We stayed at the Oakenwald Terrace B&B last night, and came downstairs this morning to feast on a sumptuous 4-course breakfast. We hadn’t had time to explore the house yesterday, so our hostess took us on a thorough tour after breakfast. First, it is the largest house we’ve ever stayed in – the rooms are innumerable. Second, what we found so fascinating is that it is the family home of the innkeepers. So not only are the furnishings and collections of china, silver and figurines family heirlooms, but they have continued to be used throughout the years. We loved hearing the history of the rooms and seeing the beautifully preserved and well-maintained craftsmanship of the home. It is truly a treasure.

We headed off in the bright sunshine with the promise of good weather throughout the day. It was a later start than normal, but we had no deadlines to meet and a long day of daylight. We left town in good spirits, and aimed for Lake City. Our route took us Northeast, and as soon as we hit the open farm fields we ran smack into NE winds. This time our battle was compounded by the fact that we were in rolling farmland, so we had continual hills as well as the wind to contend with. And it appeared to be a losing battle. By the time we reached St. Charles just 14 miles away, we knew we were not going to make Lake City. Rather than continue to fight the headwinds, Rich decided the most prudent thing to do was to change plans, work with the wind instead of against it, and head West then North to Northfield.

Now I don’t give up easily, even when presented with good logic. So I have to admit to being an unhappy camper (pun intended!) at turning away from the river and ditching the scenic route we’d chosen. It didn’t help that our view was reduced to endless miles of mostly flat freshly tilled farmland with fewer trees and towns to break up the monotony. The road continued straight west for mile after mile, and we had to weave our way through Rochester and it’s traffic. It’s not a route I would recommend.

Our turning point came during a late lunch stop. Searching the map for a park for camping, we stumbled on the town of Mantorville. Not only did it have camping sites right in town, but it boasted a 12-square-block downtown that was all on the National Historic Registry. Suddenly we were re-energized! We had a destination and something to look forward to exploring. Life got a lot better again after that.

We found the campground to be a lovely area right on the Zumbro River. Like all other rivers right now, it is swollen and flowing rapidly – a wonderful sound to lull us to sleep. Our new tent set up easily, and we were soon off to explore the town on foot. We had dinner at an old restaurant in town, and finished in time to take some pictures in the glowing late light of the day.

Having our own tent and sleeping bags definitely lends itself to a high degree of flexibility, as today illustrates. In fact, I learned a new term on this trip – apparently touring cyclists take great pride in being “self-contained.” We don’t quite meet the criteria as we do not carry food and cook kits. We choose to limit our weight to just sleeping gear. But that’s good enough for me. I expect to be warm and cozy tonight in our tent. And I’m already looking forward to my latte in the morning at the coffeehouse down the street.

Superior Footprints

Life and the Outdoors in the Northland

Tag Archives: Cycling Trip

Acadia Rain or Shine

Hugging the Coast of Maine

Off with a Bang!

Grand Gaspé Tour – Cast of Characters

Gaspé Prelude

Gaspé – The Ultimate Cycling Tour

Two Techie Cyclists

A Perfect Cycling Grand Finale

Dallying through Southern Minnesota

Have Tent Will Travel

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