Thanks for Waiting

Posted on October 12, 2014 by Molly

Fall colors. We were sure we had missed them. With our cycling trip extending well into the second week of October, it seemed unlikely that we’d see the North Shore in all its splendor. But we were wrong.

For the final two miles of our trip home, Rich turned down Seven Bridges Road. There we could see that Lake Superior had sheltered at least some parts of the Northland. Winding back and forth across Amity Creek on the narrow road, the trees were cloaked in color. Even with the red maples having finished, the yellows and golds were a brilliant contrast against the pure blue sky. A true welcome home present.

As soon as we schlepped our gear into the house, I headed right back out again – on my bike, of course, heading straight up the Shore. Admittedly, the leaves were past prime, but they were still the core element of that quintessential fall day. To complete the experience, it was cool and crisp with a bit of nip in the air. The lake reflected the deep blue of the sky.

Cruising alongside Lake Superior was a cyclist’s paradise. Wide shoulders, mostly smooth pavement, minimal traffic and little wind. Exactly the conditions we hoped for each day of our cycling trip. Add to that stunning coastal views, and there is little left to improve on the experience. Indeed, we live in a beautiful area, with all this right on our doorstep.

I’d have to say, that the scenery rivaled that which we just spent a month inspecting from our bikes. It was still worth traveling across the country to cycle through new territory. But it also brings home the knowledge that we have it good, right here.

Thanks, fall, for waiting for us.

Restoring Seven Bridges Road

Posted on August 22, 2014 by Molly

We are about to lose our private cycling and walking trail. It’s been nice while it’s lasted, but we knew it wouldn’t be forever. And to be honest, Seven Bridges Road is such a treasure that the citizens of Duluth and our visitors ought to have access to this beautiful drive again.

For over two years, the road has been closed. Contrary to popular belief, the major damage predates the flood of June 2012 by a couple of months. The steep banks of Amity Creek became seriously eroded, carving away the land next to the road. With the landslide area just inches from the roadbed, it became too dangerous for vehicles. The flood added to the problems, causing a cave-in over a culvert a little further up the road, and further impairing bridge supports for the 3rd bridge. Since no one lives on that portion of the road, it was a low priority for repairs.

All that changed this summer. As soon as spring hit, the work began. Trucks rumbled back and forth in front of our house all summer long as serious reconstruction took place. Since the land next to the problem area rose steeply alongside the road, it required carving out the hill to move the road inland. In addition, it meant relocating the cross-country ski trails as well (a project near and dear to our hearts, as we spend many hours on those trails). We were anxious to see just how they were going to navigate that terrain. I’ll admit, a few summer evenings we ambled up that way to take a sneak peak, and marveled at the huge mounds of dirt that would eventually transform the landscape.

Recently there has been an uptick in activity. Longer work hours and even bigger trucks hauling. Then it happened almost without our noticing it. The absence of noise. The lack of truck traffic. Sure enough, a day or more went by without a single construction vehicle. Did that mean the road was completed? We just had to find out.

To our amazement, the pavement was complete and work was progressing nicely on landscaping the area. Where the road once went straight along the creek, it now safely curves inland with a berm between it and the edge of the drop-off. Adjacent to the road, the ski trails follow a new path inland which is strikingly similar to the old route through the woods.

There is a hefty new culvert to replace the old one, and enough heavy duty drainage rocks to handle the worse rains. All with a new roadbed over it.

The 3rd bridge is still undergoing repairs. The footings have been replaced, and where the road was falling away from the bridge, a new concrete extension is in the works. Soon it will be rocked in to look like the rest of the bridge. A nice touch.

It’s getting close. I hear the goal is to open the road by the end of the month. I’d put my money on them making it.

I’ll miss being able to cycle up the road knowing there will be no cars. It will undoubtedly mean more traffic going past our house. And I dread the day the motorcyclists rediscover the road, noisily revving their engines as they roar by. But it’s good to see the road restored. Just in time for leaf season, when Seven Bridges is in its glory. Then I can look forward to winter when the steepest sections of the road are closed for the season. And we will have our private trail once again.

Sharing the North Shore

Posted on August 2, 2014 by Molly

Day 5 – Beaver Bay to Duluth MN, 52 miles

It seemed most appropriate that we spent this final day of the Minnesota North Shore Tour with Bike Tour Vacations following the tour’s namesake. It’s a stretch I’ve done many times, and is very familiar. But cycling with a group who had never been on the North Shore before gave it a whole new twist. It was fun to re-experience the sights and lake views through the eyes of those seeing it for the first time.

Starting in Beaver Bay was a treat as we had immediate access to the longest completed section of Gitchi-Gami State Trail, a wonderful bike trail on the North Shore. It afforded us hassle-free cycling away from the highway. In addition, it was lined with wildflowers blossoming in brilliant colors. It was interesting to note the difference in season compared to inland from the lake. Berries were just beginning to ripen, and we still found fireweed and a few remaining lupine due to the cooler climate.

It’s also worth nothing that our numbers swelled to 13 for this portion of the tour as we were joined by Jim’s sister, her husband and another couple. They were a welcome addition to our lively group.

We had many stops today due to the numerous sights on that stretch of the North Shore. First was Split Rock Lighthouse – a must-see for any tourist. Personally, I enjoy being there before the park opens for tours to beat the crowds.

Next up was Gooseberry Falls. I’ve taken so many photos of the iconic falls that I felt compelled to try a different view. This is how it looked from the bike path below the highway bridge.

Everyone was required to stop at Silver Cliffs, to take in the view and imagine the original highway that clung to the cliffs on this stretch of the North Shore. I never realized before reading the signs that it has the longest views on the Minnesota portion of the North Shore.

All day long we leapfrogged each other, collected at sights and exclaimed over the beautiful weather. Our final stopping point was for refreshment at the Mocha Moose on Scenic 61. Then we pushed on to the end, finishing up on the Duluth Lakewalk. It was a glorious end to our 5-day tour. And I was ever so pleased that the other guests found the North Shore to be as special as I do. Sharing with them was a fitting finish to the trip.

A Superior Ride

Posted on July 24, 2014 by Molly

One of my favorite summer things is getting out early to enjoy the cool am temperatures and the beautiful first morning sunlight. Since summer was so long in reaching Duluth this year, it’s only been within the last week that this idea was even worth considering. But today was the perfect opportunity.

Soon after sunrise Rich and I loaded our bikes on the car and headed out to West Duluth. Our destination: Superior, Wisconsin. We parked on the Duluth end of the Bong Bridge, mounted our bikes and proceeded to cross over the bay on the bridge. The bridge was wonderfully bicycle-friendly, with a dedicated bike lane that was well protected from traffic. As luck would have it, we also had a scenic view of the St. Louis River basin on our side of the bridge. With the rising sun behind us and calm waters in the bay, we had lovely views of the railway bridge and surrounding waterway.

We entered Superior in the Billings Park area of the city. There we were immediately able to access the bay, first on city streets and then on a bike trail through the park that was literally within feet of the water’s edge. With the water reflecting the morning’s scenery and fluffy clouds, it was an idyllic landscape. Leaving the park, we entered a beautiful neighborhood full of impressive houses and steeply rolling hills. Still within proximity of the water, it was easy to imagine the luxury of the homes with waterfront property. It was early and quiet enough that we managed to get within photo distance of a gray fox just down the road.

We continued on into the Superior Municipal Forest and traveled part of the Millennium Trail. There wildflowers grew in abundance as the trail wound through woodland areas and meadows. It was a peaceful trail, and clearly a popular destination for runners and dog walkers out for their morning rounds.

It was a pleasure to return via the coastal trail and back over the bridge for a second opportunity to enjoy the views. The sun was still low enough to provide its warm glow to the scenes. And going the opposite direction provided a different perspective on everything. This time the railway bridge was closed, and in fact a pair of locomotives crossed the bridge as we watched. I had no idea that such beauty lay right across the harbor, with such easy access by bicycle. I just never thought to look at it from the other side before. It was clearly a Superior ride.

Trying to Beat the Heat

Posted on July 22, 2014 by Molly

It’s not often that the temperatures in Duluth reach 90 degrees. And after the three week string of 40-degree weather we had in June, hitting that mark seemed inconceivable. But today was the day. There was no mistaking it.

It was the kind of day where it was impossible to escape the heat. With the humidity also close to the 90% mark, the hot sticky air seemed to envelope everything, particularly one’s body. But there were plenty of people seeking all sorts of ways to try and cool off. Myself included.

My choice was to head up the shore on my bike. Although the air was hot, it still felt better to be creating my own breeze. There was little respite from Lake Superior, despite the fact that it remains chilly. I had only occasional cool spells when there were no trees between me and the lake. But I welcomed each and everyone of them. Along the way I enjoyed people watching and surveying the variety of ways folks flocked to the water to relieve the summer heat.

Lake Superior was a natural. Brighton Beach attracted its share of families, but they didn’t venture very far into the lake. There’s cooling off, and then there’s frigid. The lake was the latter.It’s not often one sees a jet-ski in Lake Superior, but the water was so calm today that it invited such activity. I can’t say I’ve ever seen a double before! Lester River had its share of swimmers, and the youngsters seemed to enjoy jumping off the rocks into the water.However that was nothing compared to the feats of the local teenage crowd. Lower down the river, they demonstrated their fearlessness on a rope swing attached to the railroad bridge. Others jumped straight from the rock cliff.But nothing beats The Deeps for daring do. Right there in our own back yard, the water hole beneath the waterfall on Amity Creek is a magnet for teenagers, eager to show off by jumping from increasing heights above the pool. I found it chilling enough just to watch. There’s something for everyone here. It just takes the rare day that we have to go to such lengths to beat the heat here in Duluth.

What Summer?

Posted on June 28, 2014 by Molly

This post was inevitable. There is only so long I can be a good sport about the lack of warmth and sunshine on this side of Lake Superior before I too succumb to whining about it. I think my outdoor thermometer is permanently stuck on 46 degrees. That’s what it says every morning. Without fail. And we’re lucky if it climbs past the mid-50s during the day. Sigh. We love you, Lake Superior, but even now that the ice has melted your frigid waters continue to have an ice box effect on what used to be summer.

I may have to stop listening to Minnesota Public Radio. The weather forecasts are just too depressing. I begin to get hopeful when I hear the temperatures climbing into the 70s and 80s, only to have my hopes dashed when the inevitable “cooler by the lake” phrase creeps in.

Not only is Lake Superior thwarting our attempt at summer, it has disappeared. The cold water continually spawns thick fog which blankets the lake and creeps into town, rendering Lake Superior invisible even when standing on the shore. Our recent cyclist guests were convinced the lake was a myth – after all, they couldn’t see it. Duluth was no more appealing to them than any other Midwestern town.

Fortunately, we have an escape. Our cabin Up North. Despite being closer to the Canadian border, the secret is that it is inland, 100 miles away from Lake Superior. Far from the reaches of that cold, cold water.

When we lived in the Twin Cities, I always thought there was something backwards about going to a cabin where the weather was always cooler than home. Spending time on the lake was wonderful, and it was the best retreat ever, but it was always on the chilly side. Now that we have moved to Duluth, it appears that nature has righted itself. A trip to the cabin now means summer and warm weather. Thankfully. I can’t wait to get there for our annual 4th of July week with the family – for many reasons, weather included.

We had a wonderful time there over Memorial Day. It was hot and sunny, and we played with the grandkids in the water on the beach. It really felt like summer, including the nights that were too warm to allow a good night’s sleep, even with fans. The only blemish on that weekend were the plumbing problems we encountered. Lest you think this is an unrelated side track, wait until you hear the cause. Just yesterday, June 26, we hired a plumber to come out to fix the problem. Which he did. By thawing the ice that was plugging the pipes underground!

It’s no wonder I fear that summer is going to pass us by this year.

Evening Arrivals

Posted on June 1, 2014 by Molly

It’s not often that the Aerial Bridge opens just once for two boats. So when we saw the pair of boats headed for the canal, Rich and I quickly headed down to see them. It just so happened we were already nearby and had our camera equipment in the car – not so much of a coincidence, really.

Too cheap to pay for parking in Canal Park now that tourist season has begun, we headed over the bridge and planted ourselves on the south pier. The sun was already behind the hill, but for a short period of time the boats were far enough out to catch the day’s last remaining rays of light. It made for a pleasing effect reflecting off the superstructures in the otherwise dim light of the evening.

They boats were a motley pair. Out front was the Lakes Contender, which is really a flat barge with a custom tugboat cleverly tucked into a slot in the back end to propel it down the lake. Behind that was the Pilica, a saltie that flies the Maltese flag but is owned by the Polish Steamship Company, was built in Poland and carries a Polish crew. That vessel had much more pleasing lines.

Rich and I took up different stations along the pier, each testing out different camera settings and composition. The boats glided almost soundlessly through the canal as our cameras clicked and whirred. Once past a reasonable position for a good photo, I could stop and take it in with my own eyes instead of through the viewfinder. It’s infinitely more enjoyable that way, but that’s hard to remember when in pursuit of good photographs.

Although it was a cool evening, the wind had dropped and I found I was oblivious to the chill while watching the popular spectacle. After a long absence due to the late spring and ice-clogged lake, it is wonderful to have frequent shipping traffic once again. And evening is a magical time to watch the boats come in off the lake and welcome them through the bridge.

Duluth’s legendary ice

Posted on May 28, 2014 by Molly

Here it is May 28, and we still have ice on the lake. That’s no surprise to anyone who spent the winter here. There is no doubt we had sufficiently cold temperatures to generate enough ice to last a lifetime. Or at least into June – we think.

Some days it’s here along the Duluth shore. Other days the wind sends it over to the Wisconsin side. Today, the floating remnants filled the rocky shoreline along the Canal Park portion of the Lakewalk. Although it was a brilliantly sunny day, the NE wind swept down the lake to maintain a permanent chill in the air. It didn’t feel like a whole lot of melting was going on.

Being a weekday, visitors were sparse. But those who lingered after the Memorial Day weekend were clearly intrigued with this wintry phenomenon. The ice featured prominently in many a tourist photo.

I just missed getting to the bridge in time to see the Paul R. Tregurtha arrive. But I did catch the current it generated. Ice floes bobbed in the canal, gliding under the bridge and into the harbor well after the boat disappeared from view.

It would appear that the Vista fleet is finally able to venture out into the lake for its tours, after weeks of being confined to the harbor. Those on board seemed thrilled with the ride, including the now famous ice.

With June 1 just four days away, the possibility of still having ice on Lake Superior looks pretty good. Time will tell if this ice breaks that barrier. I hope so. It’s the stuff legends are made of.

In Search of Color

Posted on May 21, 2014 by Molly

It’s been so drab for so long. It didn’t help to wake up to dense fog, which obliterated all surroundings, brown or otherwise. My morning run took me up to Hawk Ridge, where nature defied all knowledge of Lake Superior or even houses below. With my senses screaming for stimulation, I went out on a mission to find color.

Knowing I’d need to get away from the lake to lose the fog, I headed up to Hartley Park. Getting out of the car I could already tell the difference – the sun that had finally emerged packed some real warmth, and it wasn’t long before I was shedding layers in the welcome heat. The hunt was already off to a good start.

My primary mission was to find wildflowers. That meant sticking to trails that were more out in the open, in the hopes that I would find a microcosm of spring where things were blooming. What I found instead were nascent blades peaking through the fall’s dead grasses, ferns beginning to take form and little else. I realized I might have to lower my expectations, and look for color in other forms.

Reaching Hartley Pond I found a peaceful scene. There a lone loon dove and surfaced in the calm waters. I gradually became aware of the birds singing in the trees and the sounds of nature surrounding me. I decreed that the blue of the sky reflected in the pond, surrounded by the green trees qualified as color.

Moving on, I was glad for my hiking boots as I slogged through wet and muddy terrain. In following one of the little streams, I spotted the shiny green head of a mallard. He cooperated long enough to pose for me, and I decided to chalk another one up for spring color.

I marveled at the fascinating plants growing alongside the stream, with their bulging balls bobbing above the leaves. And then I saw them – flowers! They were Marsh Marigolds, and I found one – and only one – that was in full boom! My first wildflower of the season, glowing in a radiant yellow and brightening my day. I could finally declare success. And if one wild flower is in bloom, surely others are soon to follow. I can’t wait for the explosion of color.

The Rocks

Posted on May 15, 2014 by Molly

We only knew the place as “The Rocks.” It was our favorite picnic spot. On any given day, if the weather was nice Mom would pack up the little grill, food for dinner, and marshmallows. As soon as Dad got home from work we’d be off to The Rocks.

The prime feature of this site was the huge expanse of flat rock adjacent to Lake Superior. It was the perfect sitting area, table, cooking platform and viewing spot. We loved to run around on the rocks, dip our feet in the water and explore. Mom always brought a towel because someone was bound to fall into the lake.

Adjacent to the The Rocks was a pebble beach, with an endless supply of rocks to skip or throw into the lake. We spent hours filling Lake Superior with those rocks.

Little changes over the years alongside Lake Superior. That area now known as Brighton Beach is just down the road from our house. Who knew that years later I would return to Duluth and settle so near The Rocks? The area is much more park-like these days, with an abundance of picnic tables and park benches for staring out at the lake. But I still prefer to sit on The Rocks.

I’m continually drawn to this small section of shoreline. In the summer I run or cycle through it almost daily. If I set out on a walk, I always end up there. When the wind churns up the lake, I head there to check out the crashing waves. In winter I love exploring the continually changing ice formations. When Mom died, I sought solace on The Rocks, listening to the lapping water.

Mom and Dad introduced me to The Rocks. Now I enjoy sharing them with my kids and grandkids. That pebble beach is like a magnet, the rocks irresistible to all ages. No visit to Duluth is complete without going down to the lake and throwing rocks. No matter what season.

No doubt, years from now it will still be the same. And I have no doubt it will always have that same appeal. The big flat rocks will host picnics, and the pebbles will find their way into the lake. Its name may change again, but to me it will always be The Rocks.

Superior Footprints

Life and the Outdoors in the Northland

Tag Archives: Duluth Minnesota

Thanks for Waiting

Restoring Seven Bridges Road

Sharing the North Shore

A Superior Ride

Trying to Beat the Heat

What Summer?

Evening Arrivals

Duluth’s legendary ice

In Search of Color

The Rocks

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