Tag Archives: Duluth Minnesota

A boat is coming!

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Growing up in Duluth, we could hear the boats tooting from our house.  And the bridge’s unique signal in response.  The incoming ships would sound their horns just about even with our house.  On a nice summer evening, it spawned instant activity – “let’s go see it go through the bridge!”  We’d jump in the car, race the ship down to Canal Park and rush to the pier to watch the huge vessel slide under the bridge.

I had a poster on the dresser next to my bed, with all the smoke stacks of the Great Lakes ore boats.  And my dad, who worked for a mining company, knew many of the ships by sight.  Living in Duluth, shipping season is part of every day life.

Having returned to live in Duluth once again, I still thrill at the sight of the boats on Lake Superior.  I was there on the shore to see the first ship leave port this spring, among the piles of ice that lined the water’s edge.

While I still love to hear the ships tooting, I no longer need to rely on them for my ship arrival and departure information.  With the leap in years between my youth and my return, there has also been a leap in technology.  While there is a wealth of information available on the web, I wanted access to the data any time, anywhere. So I turned to my trusty iPhone and yes, there’s an app for that.

photo 2I’m a visual person, so I tested out several apps that display ships on a map.  I chose the MarineTraffic app for its intuitive visual display and ease of use.  It has different icons for docked and moving ships, displays the direction of travel, and tapping an icon displays a picture of the ship and detailed information about the vessel, its current voyage and last position.  It’s a great way to see what’s coming and going, or to identify a ship out on the lake.

But that still doesn’t tell me when to find the ship under the bridge.  For that I turned to a shipping schedule.  The best source I found for that is the Duluth Shipping News.  They have a web page that lists Arrivals and Departures for Duluth, Superior and Two Harbors.  In addition to estimated ship movement times, it includes what cargo it is loading or discharging, which I find interesting.  To make this easy to access, I created an icon on my iPhone that goes directly to that web page. (Here are step-by-step directions to do that.)

My techie side is happy with my new apps.  And I’m sure they will be very useful.  But if I hear a boat tooting on a nice evening, I may still race it down to the bridge.

Up with the sun

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Actually, I was up before the sun.  I had to be – I wanted to capture the sunrise.

Yup, you guessed it, I’m practicing my new photography skills.  And what better subject than a sunrise over Lake Superior.  The forecast was for a mostly clear morning, so I roused myself in the early hours of the day.  I could see the first pinkish red hues in the sky as I hustled down to Brighton Beach, wishing I hadn’t lingered for a few extra moments in bed.

I arrived to find a few clouds in the sky – perfect for reflecting the sun’s rays.  And thankfully the sun was still far enough below the horizon to allow me to set up my camera.  Soon it all began happening so quickly, I had little time to think about all the camera settings and different adjustments I should be testing.  It was all I could do to capture the rising sun and its brilliant colors.

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IMG_0806IMG_0813Enter sea gulls.  They were flying everywhere, in and out of my pictures, and I quickly realized that I wanted them IN!  But they weren’t exactly cooperative.  And I wasn’t always fast enough on the trigger.  So I ended up with a lot of pictures just after they flew out of my viewfinder.  Oh well, RAM is cheap as they say, so I just kept snapping away.  Thank heavens we are not using film any more.  But the one I did get with the gull over the clouds is my personal favorite.

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There was something magical about being out there in the crisp morning air, with no one else around.  The placid water had a calming effect, and the sun’s growing warmth was very welcome.  What a wonderful way to start the day.  I was no longer practicing photography.  I was enjoying nature and the outdoors.  It was well worth getting up before the sun.

May Day Ski Race

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Yes, that’s right – a Nordic ski race.  On May Day.  Where else but in Minnesota?

The Duluth Cross-Country Ski Club holds weekly Wednesday night ski races throughout the winter.  And Snowflake Nordic Ski Center has continued to groom its trails throughout the long tail to this winter season.  So despite the recent warm-up, the packed snow continues to cling to its trails.  That made the perfect opportunity to add one more race to the Wednesday night series.  It was too goodIMG_9889 to miss!

Rich and I arrived early and skied the trails beforehand to see just what we were getting ourselves into.  Despite the bare patches near the warming house, once in the woods, the trails were surprisingly credible.  They had been freshly groomed (I really couldn’t tell) and grassy sections 466169_10201094940278975_87615926_owere taped off, forcing us to zigzag between trail sections.  The snow ranged from soft and mushy to icy and slushy.  And there were a few water hazards…  But it was all part of this most unique race experience.

At 6:30 the racers gathered for the 466606_10201094932598783_648904343_ostart.  It was the largest turnout they’d had all season!  It’s amazing what a bit of novelty can do.  The mood was festive and jovial.  How could we not be in a good mood?

902779_10201094942319026_1436393036_oAs we skied, whoops and hollers could be heard reverberating through the woods.  I added my own noisy yelps when trying to skirt a particularly deep puddle.  With a sickening sucking noise, my foot became mired in the icy water with my ski inexorably anchored by deep mushy snow.  I managed to extricate it with great difficulty, only to have the other foot succumb!  Apparently I just didn’t have the right technique – other more accomplished competitors skied right through.466200_10201094939278950_849080946_o

It’s not everyone who can say they skied in a race on May Day.  Nor ski 7 out of the last 12 months, which is what we did this year.  In Minnesota, when you’re given snow, you just have to ski.

Shooting The Deeps

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Timing is everything.  We had just returned home from a trip to the Cities, and before we even finished unpacking we decided to go over to The Deeps on Amity Creek.  We could hear the roar of the water rushing over the falls and rapids due to the spring run-off, and wanted to see it for ourselves.  So we grabbed our cameras and headed over to the creek.

As we got to the end of our driveway, several vehicles passed us carrying multiple kayaks each.  Since the road is closed just above the first bridge of Seven Bridges Road, it could only mean one thing – they were going to kayak on the creek at The Deeps.  Really?  Are they actually planning to go over the falls?  Amazing!  Our pace quickened and we hastened over to the falls.  We passed a number of kayakers walking down from the parking lot. They were checking out the lay of the creek and the volume of the water before committing to kayaking on it.  But in short order, they’d made their decision and were unpacking their gear.  Wow – we couldn’t wait to witness this spectacle!

Sure enough, one at a time they put in just above the footbridge by The Deeps.  They knew what they were doing, sporting helmets and other protective gear, and there were spotters positioned all along the route for safety purposes.  Still, you could never have talked us into doing it!  Shortly after scooting the kayak into the water, they were paddling through the rushing water and heading for the bridge.  They expertly navigated through the boulder-strewn waters and then whoosh!  Over the falls they went!

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We each positioned ourselves at spots across from the falls where we tried taking pictures – a tricky proposition in itself.  (Yet nothing in comparison to what those kayakers were doing!)  But eventually the desire to see the action up close drew both Rich and me back to the bridge where we could see it all take place from beginning to heart-stopping end.

IMG_0690After a number of guys had gone down, one of the women worked up her courage and followed suit.  She’s the one in the blue kayak with an orange jacket.  After successfully making it to the bottom, her kayak flipped, and it took several tries to right it.  I just couldn’t imagine being submerged in those icy waters.  Her finish drew cheers from all her IMG_0693comrades, particularly the other women.

Rich took videos of the action. Here is the best one: Kayaking Video

What a thrill to watch!  It was such a surprise adventure.  We had no idea when we set out to shoot pictures of the falls that it was kayakers who would be doing the shooting at The Deeps.

Never Say Never

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I said I was done skiing for the season.  I even put my boots away.  But when I went out for a walk to take pictures of the deep new snow early this morning, and found myself shoveling the sidewalk just to prolong my time outside, I knew I was going to renege on that statement.

My inspiration was Rich’s “epic ski” last week.  Taking advantage of the road closings for building the Lakewalk tunnel, he was able to ski from home down to Brighton Beach and on up the Scenic Highway to the pumping station.  I was so envious!  So I set out to recreate his journey.

My timing was perfect – the sun began to emerge just as I set out, which greatly enhanced the scenery.  The snow was still firm and not yet slushy, and few cars had ventured down the unplowed roads on my route.  Lake Superior picked up the blue hues of the clearing sky, and big rollers brought waves splashing up onto the rocks on the shoreline.  The views were glorious.

My revery was abruptly interrupted upon reaching the Scenic Highway to find it neatly plowed down to the pavement.  The detours had been changed, and so were my plans.  But it wasn’t the kind of day for disappointment.  Brighton Beach was every bit as entrancing on my return trip.

By then I was on a roll.  So I stretched my return trip to take in the Lester-Amity ski trails.  The city has long since stopped grooming the ski trails, but earlier skiers had generously left good classic tracks for me to follow.  When those ended, I did my share by tracking the next loop of the system.  The trees were heavily laden with snow, bending deeply over the trail and occasionally snapping under the weight.  Even at this late stage of spring, I had to admit it was a winter wonderland.

I’m glad my resolve didn’t hold.  Just see what I would have missed!

[Click on any photo to view as a slideshow.]

Rocky shoreline at Brighton Beach
Waves crashing
Skiing through the shadows
A wintry scene
Looking beyond Brighton Beach
Retracing my route along Brighton Beach
Trees coated with snow
Untracked section of the ski trails
Lester-Amity ski trail
Trees laden with snow hang over the Lester-Amity trails

Minnesota Spring

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No cherry blossoms here.  The only things blooming are the plants on my kitchen island.  Including the poinsettia that still retains its brilliant red leaves.  Perhaps it’s a sign.  Winter has not given up her grip on Minnesota yet.

IMG_9819I can now claim have been cross-country skiing in April.  It’s a distinction I do not need to make for May.  This morning I traded my skis for snowshoes – they seemed better suited to the deep, wet snow.  Another first.  Tramping through the soft, unblemished snow in the woods along Amity Creek was peaceful, but had lost some of its appeal.  Something about the calendar…

IMG_9823We had such high hopes for spring just a few weeks ago.  Sitting in the Adirondack chairs on the deck in the sun it was easy to believe in warmth and a thaw.  I was sure it was the start of a good trend.  We even discussed what wildflowers we wanted to sow in our yard.  I won’t be rushing out to buy seeds any time soon.

IMG_9818Amity Creek broke through its icy prison a little while back.  We welcomed the return of the water’s roar as it flowed over the rocks with renewed gusto – white noise that we enjoy hearing from our open windows.  Today I could barely distinguish the waterfall at The Deeps through the frosty trees in the foreground.

Minnesota has its own unique flavor of spring.  Just this once, I wouldn’t mind being a bit more mainstream.

Visiting Daloof

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As we neared the top of Thompson Hill, my daughter, Karen, announced to her children, “We’re almost to Duluth!”  Even at the tender age of almost-three, Ben knew what that meant.  He looked out the window of the car as the harbor came into view, and said, “Oh, Daloof!  There is the big bridge!”  I have no idea which bridge he was looking at – Bong, Blatnick or Aerial.  It didn’t matter, his perspective brought them all into focus for me, as I enjoyed each of them with new appreciation.  And over the next few days during their visit, I would see all the sights through his eyes.

IMG_9786No visit is complete without a trip to Brighton Beach.  Most kids probably think a beach means sand.  Not Ben.  He loves the rocks there, and rearranges them each time we go.  This trip, the ice prevent us from throwing the rocks into the water.  No matter, throwing them onto ice worked just as well.

Lake Superior was never far from our sight.  Like any good Duluthian, Ben could appreciate the Big Lake.  When asked what lake that was, his response was “Blue.”  Ben and I definitely agree on that one.

Hard as we tried, we could not make it to Canal Park when a boat was coming through the bridge.  Such is the reality of life with toddlers.  Someone was always napping or eating when the boats were due to arrive.  But we went anyway.   We walked along the pier under the bridge, thinking Ben would enjoy seeing the cars go overhead.  He was less amused than we were, but the puddles were to his liking.

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Karen and I slipped out for a run along the Lakewalk one morning, leaving Grandpa in charge of the kids.  We happened to catch the now-famous black bear sleepily meandering beyondIMG_9791 his hibernation spot in the culvert.  We brought the kids back later in the day to see Mr. Bear.  He was lazily resting in the sun, but even that was a bit threatening to Ben.  He was right – that was a wild animal there, just beyond a meager fence.  He had a healthier attitude toward the bear than most of the gawking adults gathered there.

I’m looking forward to Ben’s next visit to Daloof.  I can think of lots more sights I’d like him to show me.

Goodbye Skis, Hello Bicycle!

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It’s not often one can ski and bicycle in the same day.  The abundance of great snow in Duluth has left the ski trails amply covered and still holding up well.  And the recent warm weather has cleared the shoulders on the North Shore Scenic Drive enough for good cycling.  I just couldn’t resist the opportunity.

IMG_9755 trimmedFirst the ski, late morning.  Spring skiing is tricky.  Timing is everything – too early and the snow is hard and crusty, with deep frozen ruts made by yesterday’s skiers who were out when the snow was soft and pliable.  Too late and the snow is like sticky mush, and very slow.  I went out somewhere in between, which is the scariest.  In the shadows, it was slick and fast.  But as soon as my skis hit sun-warmed snow, they came to a screeching halt.  My body wanted to keep going…  It was a challenge, all right, but the warm air, bright sunshine, and still-abundant snow made it worth the effort.  And to think it’s almost April!

IMG_0575 trimmedIn the afternoon, I headed out on my bike.  Again, timing is important – waiting for the temperatures to warm to a reasonable level is critical.  This afternoon the conditions were perfect – not a cloud in the sky, warm sunshine, and not an ounce of wind.  Cycling up the North Shore was like sailing along.  And the views were outstanding.  The ice formations along the shoreline provided such interest and variety as I traveled along, and the rare calm water produced beautiful reflections of the shore.  It felt great to be on my bike again.

Clearly this was transition day.  The exhilaration of riding my bike was just what I needed to let go of winter, say goodbye to skiing for now, and embrace the next season’s activities.  Hello bicycle – have I got plans for you!

Blue Ice

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Not every day is perfect for taking photos.  And this afternoon certainly did not qualify as spectacular, being cloudy and blasé.  But I decided to head down to Brighton Beach with my camera anyway.  Who knows, perhaps there would be some interesting ice formations I reasoned.

IMG_0554The color was subtle but it was there – blue ice.  Out on the perimeter of the hard packed ice and snow, the lake ice had been pushed up to form an ice bank.  Thin sheets of recently formed ice were piled in haphazard formations.  There wasn’t anything too exceptional about them, except the color.  It was distinctly blue, bordering on aqua.  In the dreary light of the afternoon, it was as good as I was going to get for photo interest.IMG_0557

The blue seemed to modulate with the subtle changes in light through the clouds.  And it made for a nice change from the crusty melting snow turning dingy with spring dirt.  It was a worthwhile trip after all!IMG_0561IMG_0563

Signs of Spring?

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It was a bright sunny day, and the sky was that beautiful shade of blue.  Birds were singing, squirrels chattered away on our bird feeders and the 12 hours of sunlight proved this was the spring equinox.  But the signs of spring didn’t reach any further.

IMG_9626 In fact, March has been a far better winter than the months that preceded it.  With 12″ of snowfall in the last week, ski conditions on the local trails are the best I’ve ever seen.  It’s not often you can have winter snow for spring skiing.  So I’m plying the trails every chance I get.  My daughter says I am the only one happy about the lingering winter when I gush about the great skiing.

IMG_0504Maybe she’s not alone in her sentiments.  I suspect the mailman is not so thrilled about the lack of spring.  It must be a challenge to deliver to mailboxes that threaten to disappear beneath the mountainous snowbanks.

The neighborhood children may be similarly disappointed.  Last fall the old playground equipment in the nearbyIMG_0519 park was dismantled and removed with the promise of newer, better swings, slides and climbers.  The surface has been prepared, but who can find it under the snow?  It appears the playground is inevitably delayed.

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“The Deeps” on Amity Creek has a long way to go before it resumes its attraction for area teenagers and thrill seekers anxious to jump into the pool below the waterfall.  A bit of melting is in order before we will even see flowing water again.  For now, it is picturesque in its own way, beneath the layers of snow.

Mesabi Miner

But there is one sign of spring that did not disappoint today.  I was lucky enough to catch sight of the first laker to leave the port of Duluth, marking the beginning of the 2013 shipping season.  Seeing Mesabi Miner out on Lake Superior was undeniably stirring.  And if ships are sailing again, truly spring can’t be far behind.