Tag Archives: Liberation Cycling Tour

Start and Stop Cycling

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Progress to date: 5 days, 203 miles

For once the weather forecast was right. Just when we hoped it wouldn't be. Even through the tent we could make out the lightning blips illuminating the sky. By 5:30am they were even brighter and thunder followed. It still seemed far enough in the distance that figured we had a chance of beating the storm if we acted quickly. A shout out to Jim proved he was no longer sleeping either, and he agreed to packing up while things were still dry.

It almost worked. We had everything ready to go and were about to take the tents down when the first raindrops fell. Then a few more. Then a whole lot more in rapid succession. Back to the tents, along with our gear as the storm raged in earnest. Not much to do but read or snooze in the meantime.

Ha if out in the tent
Wet campsite

It was 9:30 by the time the rains slowed. This time we got everything stowed on our bikes before it started up again. A mad dash through the campground got us to the park ranger office. There we took refuge on the porch along with our bikes. Not a bad place to be, as it had both wifi and charging stations for our enjoyment.

Plugging in at the ranger station

Our next foray was in heavy drizzle and got us almost 2 miles. Art's Tavern was our breakfast stop, and we even saw a few short bursts of almost-sunshine during our repast. By the time we emerged, we felt confident that the day was improving. At the time, it was true. And weather was not our next showstopper, but a flat tire. Still only 8 miles into our journey, we were sidelined once more as Rich changed his inner tube. Relieved to be on a bike trail not the road, we rejoiced in our good fortune along with staying dry – for the moment.

Flat tire

It's a good thing that we had already reset our sights for that day's destination. We had planned to go to the very end of the Lelenau Peninsula and stay at the State Campground there. But another night of camping no longer held the same appeal. And alternate lodgings were limited to a town just 20 miles away. As it was, it still took us the better part of the day just to get that far. Our final 12 miles were far from dry, but at least we managed the distance without further incident or delay.

Leland proved to be an interesting little town, and even more so our motel. Perched on the edge – literally – of the Leland River, we reached our room from a walkway overhanging the rushing river water. The small dam adjacent to the motel office created a man-made waterfall and a surprisingly amount of noise. Downstream, boats were moored and on the opposite bank was historic Fishtown. What used to be shanties selling everyday goods for fishermen and townspeople are now populated by boutiques, restaurants and other trendy shops. But the look and feel still harks back to the fishing days.

View from our motel
Fishtown

It was a good place to stop for the day. Our final nighttime entertainment was watching salmon try to jump up the waterfalls. Most would futilely fly through the air to flop back in the water far short of their intended target. It made for some good laughs. And yet I knew how they felt, trying so hard to get somewhere and not quite making it.

Fish jumping upstream - by Rich Hoeg

 

And then there were three

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If you’re going to have a friend join you on a bike trip, it is mighty handy if he just happens to be a bike tour operator. Especially if you are in his home territory. And an all around good guy, like Jim.

We had already spent one day making our way north along the western shore of Michigan. It was enough to impress us with the Lake Michigan views and fine sand beaches. And I was enamoured with the brilliant blue-green color of the water, reminiscent of the Caribbean. We discovered that many towns were built on lakes, small bays or rivers adjoining the big lake. They frequently afforded appealing views with boats bobbing in marinas. And in between were orchards laden with ripe red apples, farm stands, peaches for sale, scenic farms and woods lining the road.

A Michigan beach
Rest stop in Onekama

Our rendezvous point with Jim was Arcadia. A tiny village, it boasted both a nature preserve and a beautiful town beach. With free time available, an afternoon for doing your own thing seemed in order. Rich eagerly headed out in search of birds in the marsh. I spent my time walking the beach with the roar of the waves in my ears and the wind on my face. We finished just in time to meet Jim for dinner, and capped off the day with a splendid sunset over the lake.

Arcadia Beach

Our morning departure as a threesome was quite a wake-up call. We had reached the coastal sand dunes, and as they rose steeply above the water, so did the road. Our initial few miles were straight up, ending at an overlook with long views up and down the coast. No one but me was willing to climb the steps to the top. But it was worth it. The low sun was just beginning to illuminate the trees below, and the clear blue skies and enhanced the deep color of the water.

Overlook at Arcadia

It was a grand day for cycling and necessitated taking time to enjoy the sights along the way. Having three people meant more interests. More ideas. More reasons to stop. A photo opp for Rich. A rest stop for Jim. A lighthouse or two for me. One looked like a toy, but Point Betsie Lighthouse was quite nice.

Point Betsie Lighthouse
We were in unanimous agreement on one thing. Ice cream. A requirement at the end of a long, hot day of cycling. Such was our mission upon reaching Glen Arbor after our 50-mile ride. Fortunately, Jim’s expertise led us to just the place – a shop where all the ice cream featured Michigan cherries!
Jim, Molly and Rich at ice cream place

We were grateful to learn that Jim was a very agreeable traveling companion. Despite the dire weather forecasts for morning, we threw caution to the wind and stuck with our plans to camp that night. For our reward, we scored the only campsite in the DH Day National Forest Campgound with a water view! The fact that they had only primitive campsites (outhouses and water faucets, period) was no problem. Our beautifully secluded spot also had beach access. With Jim leading the charge, we were soon swimming off our day’s sweat and rinsing our cycling gear all at once in Lake Michigan! I certainly never expected to swim in the lake on this trip. And had we been on our own, I’m not certain we would have taken the plunge. It’s a good thing that by then there were three.

Swimming in Lake Michigan

 

Water, Water Everywhere

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Rainy cycling

We were destined to spend the day surrounded by water. The first variety came out of the sky. The weather forecast made it abundantly clear that we were going to encounter rain this morning. And it wasn't wrong. Although the skies were dry when we left, it soon began to drizzle. Rain was not far behind and continued off and on for the duration of our ride. But still, it could have been worse. The temperatures were mild enough that we didn't get cold, and the wind was light.

Our early departure worked to our advantage. By the time we arrived in Manitowoc, the rain was tapering and a strong NW wind had picked up. We both agreed that we were better off getting wet than battling that headwind. And we were glad that we had pressed onward yesterday leaving only a show trial 23 mile ride today.

Walking around the harbor in Manitowoc was pleasant and offered plenty of sights. We were fascinated by the “fishing kayaks” we saw. Powered by foot pedals and very stable, they gently maneuvered around the harbor. We even saw one such fisherman land an active, jumping fish. The Farmers Market provided a colorful contrast to the dreary day. And we were able to see the USS Cobia up close by the Maritime Museum. It is one of 28 subs built in Manitowoc that saw action in WWII. We completed our walking tour at Manitowoc Coffee, where we gradually began drying out.

Manitowoc Farmers Market
USS Cobia
Molly at Manitowoc Coffee
Rich and The Badger

The afternoon brought our second water immersion experience. In this case, we boarded The Badger and spent four hours in the midst of Lake Michgan, crossing from Wisconsin to the Michigan side. The Badger was built in 1952 to carry rail cars across the lake, which it did until 1990. Just two years later, it began its new life as a car ferry. The thick black smoke that belched from its smoke stack nearly became its downfall when new EPA regulations were enacted. However, installing an ash retention system on its coal-fired steam engines kept the ferry in business. Just this year it was designated as a National Historic Landmark, and continues to make four crossings daily in the non-winter months.

Enjoying the deck

Not long after departing from Manitowoc, the skis cleared and the day became hot and sunny. We spent most of the voyage out on deck where our clothes dried quickly in the sun. I reclined in a deck chair with my book for the afternoon. And I considered it a personal victory to be able to tolerate the waves that rocked the boat from side to side.

As the day ended, we were drawn back to the water one more time. Now in Michigan, our coastline faced west. Walking back to our motel after dinner, the sky was filled with fantastic cloud formations, highlighted by the last light of the day. And there at the horizon was the sun's finale, glowing red between lake and clouds.

From the early raindrops to the sun's retreat, it dominated our day. Water, water everywhere.

Sunset over Lake Michigan - by Rich Hoeg

 

Cycle Touring Made Easy

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Starting the Liberation Tour

We've been doing this long enough to know. Every cycling trip has its good days and bad. Moments of pure joy and periods of frustration. Pleasant weather and drenching rain. If I could design a near-perfect day of cycling, Day 1 of our Liberation Tour would come really close. It contained all the essential elements for great cycling.

A good a send-off. Having nourished us with a hearty steak dinner and homemade morning scones, our son Carl and his wife Chelsea cheered us on as we cycled away from their Milwaukee home. Sun shining, cool breezes and at least 1200 miles in front of us, life on a bike felt great.

Safe riding. Exiting a major city can be a hassle to say the least. Not so this time. The Oak Leaf Trail eliminated all traffic and congestion as we pedaled through leafy green park-like environs. The smooth pavement and dedicated corridor gave us a speedy and protected ride out of town.

Interurban Trail

Cycling Trail. Somewhere along the way, that trail merged seamlessly into the Interurban Trail and our bike route continued, covering 37 of our 58 miles for the day. Unlike some trails this one ran straight through towns, making it more interesting than purely cycling through the woods. Somehow, the areas it skirted seemed to be more affluent and well kept than most. Pristine farms with freshly painted barns. Tidy pastures with longhorn cattle. Upscale townhomes with beautifully landscaped yards. Even the wildflowers were brilliant and well behaved. The trail was flanked by a railway on one side and massive utility poles on the other. But we had no complaints – for that very reason it was flat, easy cycling.

Rich on the Interurban trail
Rich at the Deli

Scenic Views. A local cyclist in Port Washington pointed us to the Dockside Deli for our mid-morning breakfast break. Sitting outdoors under an umbrella in the mild morning temperatures while looking out over the marina with Lake Michigan beyond was nirvana. Finding healthy food choices was an added benefit. Lingering came naturally.

Leisurely sightseeing. With the miles quickly gliding by, we felt in no hurry. Posing with a lawn ornament (Is this a “Purple Cow?”). Taking in the view of the river from the bridge in Cedarburg. Checking out the river park in Sheboygan Falls. Stopping to eat an apple at the Gibbsville Orchard. Plenty of time for all that.

Molly and a lawn ornament
River in Cedarburg
Stopping for a fresh apple

Delightful weather. The cool morning gave way to sunny warmth. The wind was very light and always behind us. We detected a touch of humidity and admittedly it was reaching hot by the time we finished. But who can argue with warm and dry?

We are wise enough to know this can't last. So we savor the experience and know that today cycle touring was easy. We shall see what 4 weeks of tomorrows will bring.

 

A Cycling Liberation Celebration

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One of our first steps in planning a cycling tour is to establish a theme, give it a name and pick a logo.  In the past, the geographical location of our adventure has always been the focus.  Not so this time.  Our newest tourLiberation Tour Logo name is based on our life status.  Although for all practical purposes we have been empty nesters for several years, the marriage of our third and youngest child this summer has firmly established this rank.  With joyful wedding memories still vivid, we are embarking on our Liberation Tour.

Liberation Tour mapContinuing our propensity to follow shoreline, this trip will take us along the coast of the three northernmost Great Lakes – Superior, Huron and Michigan.  Taking advantage of our son Carl’s home in Milwaukee, we will depart from there and make our way by ferry over to lower Michigan.  We plan to travel the perimeter of the “mitten” with a foray into the UP to explore Mackinac Island, Whitefish Bay and Drummond Island.  When we return to Wisconsin, we hope to detour into Door County for our first visit to that scenic peninsula.

Per normal we have no detailed plans, only a vague route.  Daily distances and lodging will be decided the night before, based on terrain, weather conditions, sightseeing options and whim.  We haven’t done much research into how challenging (read “hilly”) this route might be.  Rich is convinced it will be flat.  Compared to Scotland, that’s bound to be true.  We look forward to a US tour once again, where we can follow our natural cycling rhythm minus any cultural differences.

Time and distance are pretty fluid.  The route is roughly 1250 miles, and we are allowing 4-5 weeks.  We’ve always had good luck cycling in September with fewer tourists on the road and still-mild temperatures.  And we are prepared for chillier days should we delve very far into October.  For someone who is normally highly scheduled, I look forward to the flexible nature of this trip.

Liberation Tour JerseyOur trademark custom jerseys have arrived.  The bikes are in the shop for their pre-trip tune-up.  I have my trusted detailed packing list.  It’s just a matter of dragging the panniers out of the closet and corralling all our gear.  The kids are well established in good jobs and happy marriages.  We’re ready for the Liberation Celebration to begin!