Tag Archives: Travel

Coming Unplugged

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We knew that cell phone coverage in Canada would be an issue. My phone plan flat out does not include Canada. Rich's phone is unique in that it uses wifi for its primary access, so he occasionally has connectivity. To rectify the situation, we intended to buy a cheap prepaid phone in Canada, but such plans to not include calls to the US. Not willing to spend an arm and a leg for service, we're just going to make do.

First, we're testing the limits of our equipment. Rich figured out he can still send and receive email on his phone when there is cell service. Texting seems to work as well, on the same basis. Sounds good, but we're traveling through remote areas of Ontario. We just have to hope for signals if we run into an emergency and need to notify family back home.

Naturally, wifi is a valid lifeline. When we can find it. We suffered mediocre breakfast food and barely passable coffee one morning for the glory of a fast internet connection. We rapidly connected, checked email, published blog posts and checked in with Facebook. We've learned to work offline ahead of time, using our scarce internet time to push content to the web and download sites to read later.

Sunset over the Ottawa River

Normally we would get our internet fix in the evenings. Even cheap motels offer free internet. But campsites don't provide the same luxury. We thought we had it made when we found a cute little restaurant attached to a motel for dinner last night. Sure enough they had wifi. Unfortunately, the waitress was more focused on food than technology, and we never did get that password. But there were other compensations. Instead of lingering over our tablets we got back to our campsite in time for a beautiful sunset.

With each passing day, the withdrawal symptoms have lessened. Checking email seems less urgent. Reading at night wins out over composing blog posts. Life will go on if we don't post our latest pictures on Facebook. We've trained hard for our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour, and this final journey to the start of that trip is preparing us in another way. The Canadian Maritimes are guaranteed to present even greater technology challenges. Fortunately, we've also learned a trick. What seems to be extinct in the US is still available in Canada. If we remember how to use it, we can still call home. Even when we're unplugged.

Canadian Phone Booth

 

Lake Superior Half Circle Tour

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We've never done the Lake Superior Circle Tour, but in the last two days we nearly completed the northern half. We'd never been beyond Nipigon before, and were enchanted with the Canadian stretch of lakeshore on the other end of the lake. Beyond a doubt, it is unspoiled wilderness. The dense forest, deep rock cuts for the road, vast distances between small towns, and soaring views of Lake Superior make it truly unique. Even when the road ventured inland away from the Big Lake, we were continually wowed by views of deep blue pristine lakes.

We were surprised at how hilly the terrain is. Since we are on our way to the east coast to start our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour, we are keenly aware of hills and wind. It was clear that this stretch of the Circle Tour would be most challenging on bicycle. But it also lends beauty to the area. I'm not one who can normally sit in a car for hours on end without working on a project or reading. But the scenery kept me riveted for the last two days.

Rossport's harbor

Rossport's harbor

Aquasabon Falls

Aquasabon Falls

Since we had our bikes along, we took the opportunity to do some cycling near Wawa. Traveling inland on infrequently traveled roads was a delight.

Molly by Wawa Lake

Molly by Wawa Lake

Rich enjoying a picnic lunch in Wawa

Rich enjoying a picnic lunch in Wawa

We chose Pancake Bay Provincial Park to camp for the night. After pitching our humble pup tent in a nice site right next to the beach, I took a long stroll along the waterline, and we picnicked on the sand. As the sound of the waves lulled us to sleep there seemed no better place to be.

Beautiful view north of Pancake Bay

Beautiful view north of Pancake Bay

The beach at Pancake Bay

The beach at Pancake Bay

Now I wonder why we waited so long to visit this end of Lake Superior and take in its beauty. I guess we saved the best for last.

 

Gaspé Prelude

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I’ve checked and double checked my detailed list.  My panniers are packed with my cycling clothes and gear.  My duffel bag is full of all the things I’ll need on the drive.  Food and picnic items are prepared for the journey.  Ancillary items are poised to go into the car.  Are we ready to go?

Today we start theDriving Route trip to the beginning of the trip – driving from Duluth out to New Hampshire for our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour.  We have decided to drive north of Lake Superior and continue on through Canada.  We’ve never been past Nipigon at the top of the lake, and are looking forward to seeing the more remote Canadian side of Lake Superior. Having allowed extra time, we can linger and explore along the way and maybe even do a bike ride or two.

Logistically, I think we’re ready.  We’ve done enough cycling trips to know what we need to bring.  We’re physically fit and have plenty of cycling miles behind us.  Our bikes have been in for maintenance, and have an assortment of fresh new parts.  We’ve increased our stock of spare tires and repair tools.  And we have quality gear.  Yes, we’re in good shape there.

Mentally, are we ready?  This summer has been so busy that we really haven’t had time to focus on the reality of this cycling trip until now.  Sure, we planned the route, digested the magnitude of the distance, took a deep breath and enthusiastically exclaimed “Yes, let’s do it!”  But I don’t think the reality of spending two months or more on our bicycles has really sunk in.  Spending all that time traveling, just the two of us.  Pedaling through good weather and bad, uphill and down, with the wind and against it.  Deciding day by day where we will go next.  How far and where we will stay.  For all that time.  Two months or more.

The novelty of the plan has carried us this far.  It’s been great fun to talk about the trip, visualize ourselves out there on the edge of the continent, and tackling an unfathomable distance on two wheels. Perhaps that’s enough. It’s better to go into it feeling the thrill of the challenge, rather than worrying the details.

We’ll have plenty of time to think about it in the car.  But I’d rather concentrate on the sights along the way.  After all, it’s a trip in its own right, the prelude to Gaspé.  And I’m ready to go!

Gaspé – The Ultimate Cycling Tour

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It’s been in the planning stages for months.  I’ve alluded to it in several previous posts.  It’s only just over a month away.  So I think it’s time to elaborate on our plans for our most extensive cycling trip yet – The Grand Gaspé Tour.

This trip is Rich’s brain child.  That’s nothing new, he plans most of our adventures.  But the sheer magnitude of this one makes it unique.

The inspiration is his missed opportunity to take a college graduation trip.  While his friends piled into old cars to cruise the USA, Rich dove right into work at his first job.  It’s a decision he came to regret, and one he expects to rectify with this trip.  Having taken all three of our children on graduation trips when they finished college, now it’s Rich’s turn.

Gaspe V3

Our route through Maine, New Brunswick, the Gaspé Peninsula, Quebec City and New Hampshire

Since we are now both retired, we have plenty of time.  Rich took that concept literally and dreamed up a 2-month, 2,000 mile trip through the Canadian Maritimes.  When he proposed it, I jumped right on board.  After all, it combined my passion for fitness and love of travel.

The idea is to take small roads and hug the coastline as closely as possible, taking in the stunning scenery. It must be our Duluth upbringing – we just can’t get enough of coastline and water views.  We will also visit Quebec City for the first time.

For the first week our son, Carl, and my high school friend, Myra, will be cycling with us as we travel up the cost of Maine.  That week is well scripted, with reservations already in place at small motels along the way.  We plan to spend an extra day in Acadia National Park, and reach the border of Canada by the week’s end.

From there on, we’re on our own.  And it’s all virgin territory.  We’ve never cycled with such an open agenda and flexibility before.  We know that if we maintain our normal pace, doing about 60 miles a day, we could complete the route in under 6 weeks, even taking one rest day per week.  But the idea isn’t to just cover the miles.  We have enough extra time to allow spontaneous side trips.  If we like a place, we can stay longer.  If the weather turns rotten, we can wait it out.  Even our end date is loose – we can extend that too, if we choose.

Some of our kids keep wondering just why we’d want to do this.  Who in their right minds would  spend two months on a bicycle with only the contents of their paniers?   WeGaspe Jersey Back just smile and nod, looking forward to the challenge and seeing the countryside up close, at cycling pace.

So come August and September that’s where we’ll be.  On the Grand Gaspé Tour.  You can’t miss us.  We’ll be the ones sporting the lighthouses.

Root River Trail Surprises

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Day 5 - Calidonia to Chatfield 66 miles

Day 5 - Calidonia to Chatfield 66 miles

On our way into Caledonia yesterday, we noticed a number of barns with colorful patchwork quilt patterns on them. They were bright and attractive, but we didn't know why they were there. Reading up on the local sights, I discovered that they were “barn quilts.” It all began with one family who originally started it as a barn improvement project. The idea caught on, and over 60 barns now pay homage to the quilting heritage of the area, painted by local artists. For the start of this morning's ride, I enjoyed watching it for more of them.

Barn Quilts near Caledonia
A pastoral scene

The countryside changed from the previous day as well. Trees seemed to dominate the terrain, with farms carved into niches among the woods. That was quite different from the wide open fields we'd seen earlier in our travels. To us it presented a very pastoral scene.

As far as cycling goes, I'd have to say this was our easiest day yet. It wasn't the shortest, but we did most of it on a bike trail sheltered from the wind, with only gradual elevation changes, and cool temperatures. It doesn't get much better than that. But we still had our challenges.

The plan was to follow the Root River bike trail for most of today's mileage. So imagine our disappointment at learning that over half of the trail was closed due to flooding. We even stopped in at the trail center in Houston to ask about it. While they thought the water may have receded, it was likely the trail was still muddy and slippery. So we did the prudent thing, and took the road instead.

Rich cleaning off our bikes

Once through Rushford, the wide shoulders disappeared from the road were were traveling and we were about to encounter bridge construction. Seeing the bike trail paralleling the road, it was easy to fall prey to the temptation to follow it… so we did. We were quite pleased to find it in good shape, and it was very pleasant to cycle down a tree lined trail with no traffic. We were feeling quite smug as we neared Whalen, thinking we had it made. Wrong! Suddenly we were mired in mud, left behind by the receding river. Not only had it buried the trail, but the adjoining dirt road was also reduced to muck. Forging onward as best we could, our bikes and shoes were magnets for the wet brown stuff. It took a garden hose and a good dousing before we could continue. Still, I'd have to say it was worth it!

The remainder of the trail was officially open, which by then was a relief. We enjoyed the flowering trees, wildflowers and birds that were in abundance. One portion of the trail was lined with high granite walls. Numerous bridges had just been reconstructed. And all along the way the swollen Root River flowed rapidly. The farm fields lining the trail were largely still submerged in water, far from being ready to plant.

Molly among flowering trees on the trail
Molly crossing the Root River
Rich between granite formations

A light drizzle fell for much of the afternoon – the first rain we've had while cycling this trip. But it was so light as to be insignificant. We arrived in Chatfield slightly wet and ready for shelter. I hadn't paid attention to the details of our accommodations for the evening, and assumed we were staying in a motel. The neighborhood just didn't look right, though – no wonder, Rich had booked us into another B&B! Unlike the mud, that was a very welcome surprise.

 

Anticipation!

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Today my husband and I celebrate our 30th Wedding Anniversary. To celebrate, we have treated ourselves to a B&B while on our Upper Mississippi River Cycling Tour, otherwise known as our 30th Anniversary Tour. In addition to looking forward to many more happy years on this “ride through life,” we anticipate many good things today:

  • Breakfast! Normally, a staple of our cycling trips has been to stop for a hearty breakfast after logging about 20 miles, but that hasn't panned out just yet. We can't miss today, it's right downstairs. I can almost smell the coffee brewing!
  • Flying with the wind. After battling fierce headwinds all the way down the river, we can't wait to turn North this morning and enjoy a tailwind. We should have a speedy ride today! It won't last, as we can already see a change to NW winds in the forecast, but we'll take it as an anniversary present today.
  • A bit of cooler weather. I love the sun and warm weather, but even I will appreciate temperatures below the 80s today. And my sun-ravaged arms and legs will be thankful for the clouds.
  • Camping. Yes, our anniversary night will be spent in a tiny tent it in a park somewhere. Dinner will likely be a picnic – whatever we can squeeze in with the rest of the gear on our bikes before leaving the nearest town. Marriage is an adventure, right?

For 30 years it's been a great ride. I anticipate many more together!

Rich and Molly (Note the wedding picture in the corner!)

 

Clinging to the Mississippi River

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Day 2 - La Crosse to Prairie du Chien 60 miles

Day 3 – La Crosse to Prairie du Chien 60 miles

Today we hugged the Mississippi River all day long. In contrast to the previous two days when the Great River Road frequently swung away from the river, this portion faithfully remained in sight of the river. The bluffs backed away from the river, allowing room for farmland, homes and vacation rentals opposite the river. Towns were small, infrequent and sported few businesses (you guessed it – a dearth of restaurants!). That left the river and it’s surroundings as the main attraction. On a beautiful sunny day, that was ample for us.

With the heat and the recurrence of strong gusty headwinds, we were happy to take frequent breaks to enjoy the view. A fish hatchery made for a peaceful respite, with its majestic Silver Maple trees. We took a short detour into Blackhawk Park, where the Mississippi backwaters resembled a lake. We appreciated the humor of a farm that wished it was in Norway, proudly dubbed Uf-da Acres. And of course, we stopped for ice cream mid-afternoon at a river-side kiosk with a very friendly owner.

Moly relaxing at the fish hatchery
Blackhawk Park
Uf-da Acres
A train thundering past

The other constant I should mention has been the presence of trains. The track lies between the road and the river, and the interval between trains is short. While I wouldn’t want freight trains thundering through my back yard, we have rather enjoyed them as a novelty.

I also have to admit that there is one aspect of this route that I have not enjoyed – the traffic. The Great River Road follows highway 35 through Wisconsin, and there is no doubt that it is well travelled. The traffic is not constant, and for the most part the shoulders are wide and smooth. But when semis come rushing past, my heart races and I grip my handlebars tightly, not wanting to be sucked into their slipstream. It’s a natural hazard of road cycling, but one I could do without.

It’s enough to close with this photo, which epitomizes today’s ride. It says it better than I can in words.

Rich cycling along the Mississippi

Cycling into Hefty Headwinds

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Day 2 - Wabasha to La Crosse 72 miles

Day 2 - Wabasha to La Crosse 72 miles

We said that this trip was to be a test for the longer cycling tour we are doing later this summer. We're trying out carrying the gear and clothes we think we will need for two months. So far so good on that account. Today it was the weather that tested us. After waiting out yet another thunderstorm before setting off this morning, we finally hit the road and ran smack dab into 25 mph headwinds! Since we were cycling through largely open countryside, there was no where to hide from the winds. All we could do was put our heads down, shift down to embarrassingly low gears and pedal like mad.

The only thing worse than cycling into the wind was doing it on an empty stomach. Early on we passing up a breakfast cafe that offered views of a lock and dam but had a waiting line. We should have known better… The following towns had nothing to offer, and our reserves began to run low. I found myself pressing into the wind, counting down the miles to the next town, harboring hopes for a cafe and missing the scenery.

Rich at the Irish pub

When we reached Fountain City we found a wonderful Irish pub with a delightful upstairs patio. Settling down at a shady table for lunch, we soon learned that we were to be well rewarded for the wait. The food was incredibly fresh and well prepared, including the proprietor's grandmother's recipe for potato soup. And boy did it taste good. After that stop, our outlooks improved significantly, the scenery became visible again, and we even tolerated the wind better.

Despite the fact that today's ride was largely over flat terrain, the wind took a huge toll on our forward momentum. The hours passed by and our destination continued to loom far in the distance. The day turned from cloudy to sunny once again, and heated up into the high 80s. But good fortune arrived in the form of a bike trail. After a grueling 50 miles on the road, we headed onto the Great River State Trail. Not only did it shelter us from the wind, but the shade brought welcome relief from the heat. A great combination!

The early section of the trail passed through a National Wildlife Preserve. There we were in the backwaters of the Mississippi, surrounded by wetlands and with tree branches meeting overhead. Birds were in great abundance and the scenery was just beautiful. That gave way to dryer land but continued to protect us all the way to the north edge of La Crosse. What a godsend that was to our weary bodies!

Wetlands alongside the trail
Molly on the bike trail
Molly at the Hungry Peddler restaurant

Bolstered by a stop at a handy Dairy Queen for cones, we made our way across the city – once again counting down the final miles. Nothing ever looked so good as the site of our humble motel for the night. Even better, there was a great vintage restaurant right across the street. We couldn't have asked for more!

I think we passed today's windy test. Regardless, we're not interested in a re-take.

 

Cycling – From Thunder to Brits!

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Day 1 - Prescott to Wabasha 56 miles

Day 1 - Prescott to Wabasha 56 miles

We woke up to the sound rain falling. Thunder boomed and lightning flashed while we packed up the car. We drove to our starting point in a torrential downpour. It was an ominous way to start our week-long cycling trip. But as we neared Prescott, Wisconsin the weather gods smiled down on us, we drove out from under the clouds, and were able to set off without delay. Whew!

Following the Great River Road in Wisconsin, we had beautiful pastoral scenery and ample views of the river. Since leaves have not yet come out in Duluth yet, it was a delight to pass through countryside painted with that bright spring green. Seeing brilliant tulips and daffodils blooming added to our pleasure. It was definitely a day of cycling up and down rolling hills as we travelled through bluff country alongside the Mississippi.

Bluffs along the Mississippi
Wisconsin farmland
English 3-speed cyclists

We hadn't gone far when we came upon a number of other cyclists. Only these folks were decked out in classic English garb, and riding all manner of old bicycles. We had stumbled upon the Pepin 3-Speed Tour – a 2-day bike ride fashioned after cycle touring in pre-war England, strictly riding English 3-speed bikes. We happened to share the same route for the day, so we had ample opportunity to stop and chat with many of the 118 adventuresome folks on the tour. Not only were they passionate about their bikes, but they were up for good old fun. Many bicycles sported wicker baskets and the occasional baguette. Tin cups hung from leather trimmed bags, and we spotted a flask or two making the rounds. And I overheard some sore cyclists applying “sticking plasters” to their blisters. It was clearly a highlight of our day!

By mid-day, the weather had improved significantly and we basked in the sunshine on an outdoor patio while eating lunch. By the end of the day, we both sported sunburns. It was the first summery day of the year, and it sure felt good!

Our Warm Showers home

Our destination was Wabasha MN where we had our first stay in a Warm Showers home. We were told we'd know the place by the teepee in the yard, but that in no way prepared us for the gorgeous home right on the river with a pool and enormous deck next to the water. What a treat! We are accompanied by at least 5 other cyclists on various trips, some on 3-speeds, others on rides longer than ours. Trading cycling stories was a must before all bedding down for the night.

Day 1 of the Upper Mississippi River Cycling Tour – we're off to a great start!

 

Upper Mississippi River Cycing Tour – one month countdown

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It didn’t seem like a stretch at all.  Planning a cycling tour for mid-May left plenty of time for training beforehand.  Or so we thought.  After all, by this time last year I had already logged over 500 miles on my bike, and I was a novice to boot.  But we didn’t figure in the fickle behavior of Mother Nature.  Last year was an incredibly early spring.  This year is the winter that won’t quit.  Indeed, as I write, snow is steadily falling outside and is likely to accumulate enough to make this the snowiest April in Duluth.  Ever.

It’s not like we can delay the trip.  The timing of this Tour was very deliberate.  It was intended to commemorate our 30th wedding anniversary.   Most people might plan a romantic getaway for the occasion.  But we’ve never exactly been mainstream…  we’ll be spending the night of our anniversary in a tent!  We will have other nights to spend in comparative splendor, as we sprinkled in a few modest motels along the route.  And we have a proper celebration awaiting us at the finish.  Our tour ends at the home of our daughter and son-in-law, who will be hosting a family BBQ in honor of our anniversary upon our arrival.

There is little chance that the purpose of our trip will escape any casual observers who happen to see us cycling by.  Rich takes great pride in designing eye-catching custom jerseys for our trips.  The shirts speak for themselves.

So exactly one month from today we will push off and start cycling.  We may be training en route, if this winter keeps up. But I’m not worried.  With a winter of steady cross-country skiing to keep us fit and our previous Trans-Superior Cycling Tour under our belts for experience, I’m confident that we will manage just fine.  After all, we’ve weathered 30 years together.  What’s another week on bicycles?