This is more like it!

Posted on February 24, 2014 by Molly

Today was the best skiing yet. This is what I came for! With 4″ new snow overnight, and the groomers out setting new track on all the trails, the conditions were glorious. Add to that mostly sunny skies and temperatures that ultimately reached 41 degrees – it just doesn’t get any better than that. Even the wind had lessened in the morning when I first went out.

My favorite trail of the morning was one we skied on our first day here. But the new snow not only softened the formerly crusty trail but draped the trees in snow and muffled all sound. It was a long but beautiful climb up the mountainside, and a wonderful ride all the way back down. It was the kind of day that made me want to stay out all day. But lunch was calling to me. As I headed back to the Nordic Center, the winds had picked up significantly (of course!), and they blew me all the way down the valley. I never knew I could ski so fast!

For my afternoon ski, I decided to try out a pair of Atomic Skintec waxless classic skis. I’ve been lusting after them for two years, wanting a pair but unwilling to swallow the high price tag. Since volunteers can rent equipment for free, it was the perfect opportunity to take them out for a test run to see if I really liked them.

By that time, the wind had done quite a number of the trails. Where I had pristine grooming in the morning, the classic tracks were often filled with new snow or drifted over entirely. But when I could hide from the wind, I found fast firm tracks. It was a great opportunity to give the skis a full workout. Where the warm afternoon sun beat down on the snow, it was beginning to soften but we did notice one big difference out here. The air is so dry that even warm soft snow is not as sticky as back home, instead holding that powdery feel at a much higher temperature.

And the verdict on the skis? I loved them! I don’t know if that is good news or bad. I’m now left still wishing for a pair of my own, looking for a good sale and justification for the purchase…

When I envisioned our stay at Snow Mountain Ranch, this is the kind of day I expected. Plenty of fresh snow, beautiful trails and multiple excursions out skiing in a day. Yes, this is more like it.

XC Skiing Mountain Style

Posted on February 19, 2014 by Molly

The bulk of my cross-country skiing experience has been in Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan’s UP. I have to say, I think we have some great trails and beautiful settings in our neck of the woods. So I was very curious to see just how different it would be to ski out in the Rocky Mountains.

Snow Mountain Ranch is nestled in an expansive valley up in the mountains above Denver. They boast 100 kilometers of ski trails right on campus, and a world-class Nordic Center. It didn’t take me long to begin exploring. I think what surprised me most was that many of the trails are out in the open in the base of the valley. Used to skiing on heavily wooded trails, it’s a different feeling being so exposed. Unfortunately, the openness is largely due to the advances of the Mountain Pine Beetle, which has decimated the trees in this area of the Rockies, leaving wide open patches everywhere. Sadly, it is a native bug normally held in check by cold winters, but milder weather over the last decade has allowed it to flourish and kill most of the pine trees.

After the devastatingly cold winter in Duluth this year and record-breaking string of sub-zero weather, it feels like spring out here with temperatures reaching the 40s during the day. I have piles of warm ski clothes I don’t need – not that I’m complaining! But with the temperature swings come high winds, and they blow without mercy down the empty valley. Skiing on the flats feels akin to skiing uphill against the resistance of the wind. The wind does a number on the trails, scraping any new snow off the top and creating drifts in unexpected areas. Fortunately, they do groom frequently, and given the chance, I follow the most recently groomed trails.

But the openness does have its compensation in the form of amazing scenery. Everywhere I look I see mountains, many of them snow covered beauties off in the distance. The views are spectacular, particularly when the sun shines and radiates off the snowy mountain tops. That’s definitely a scene we don’t see out in Minnesota.

Personally, my favorite trails are still those in the woods. By definition, leaving the valley means a long ascent up the mountainside, but even by a Minnesotan’s standards the grade is reasonably gradual. Normally I would expect to fly up those hills, skating at a good clip, but at 8,705 feet above sea level the altitude puts a definitive check on my aerobic capacity. Once at the top, I enjoy winding through both pine and deciduous forests and ultimately making my way back down again.

Perhaps I’m biased, but I have to say that I don’t think Colorado has that much over Minnesota in its XC ski trails. But to be fair, I’ve only sampled one trail system so far. And there is a lot to be said for the sunny mild days and towering mountain scenery. Maybe I should call it a draw. And ski for another three weeks, just to verify my first impressions of mountain skiing.

Our new home away from home

Posted on February 16, 2014 by Molly

We had a short drive to get to Snow Mountain Ranch today, coming from Loveland, Colorado. With no snow in sight, and the car thermometer recording 60 degrees as we traveled through Denver, I admit to having qualms about all this. Could it really be all that different up there in the mountains? It didn’t look like it as we began our ascent into the hills.

Fortunately, the higher we went the more the temperature dropped and the snow mounted. We saw snowboarders and back-country skiers on the roadside. I began to breathe more easily again. Although it was a balmy 40 degrees when we reached Snow Mountain Ranch, the high snowbanks were reassuring.

We were given a quick tour of the extensive grounds and facilities at the center, leaving us eager to explore it all. It didn’t take long to settle into our room. While small and bare bones, it has a marvelous view of the mountains and is conveniently connected to the main lodge.

With a free afternoon, we did the only sensible thing – head for the ski trails! We started at the Nordic Center to get our ski passes and met the first of many friendly fellow volunteers. They went out of their way to make us feel welcome. This was starting to feel really good.

We planned a short reconnaissance ski, checking out the trails, snow conditions and terrain for the first time. Rich and I skied together, not pushing ourselves and just enjoying the newness of it all. We have three full weeks to explore all 100k of trails after all. We did find that the altitude took its toll – I was quickly winded on the uphill climbs and confess to having to stop to rest along the way. Hopefully our bodies will acclimate before long.

It’s all still so new to us, but we’re already convinced we’re going to like it here. Good thing as this is our home away from home for the next three weeks.

The Latest Adventure

Posted on February 15, 2014 by Molly

Just four and a half months since we cycled to the end of our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour, we are on our way to another new vacation experience. This time we have loaded up our cross-country skis and are headed for the Rockies. Although we won't be self-propelled between destinations this trip, we will be “self-supported” during our stay.

With retirement comes plenty of free time, and an incentive to conserve funds. So when we heard about the volunteer opportunitites at Snow Mountain Ranch, a Nordic Ski Center run by the YMCA of the Rockies in Colorado, we didn't hesitate a moment before filling out the application. When the call came to say we were “hired” we were thrilled. We've never skied in the Rockies before, and are unlikely to spend the big bucks to go there, so it was the perfect solution.

It's a sweet gig indeed. For three weeks we will work as volunteers for 28 hours a week, in exchange for room and board, and access to 100 kilometers of mountain ski trails. They are putting Rich to work in IT, doing a PC upgrade on all their computers. I chose a more leisurely pursuit – working in the craft shop, helping others with their projects. The remainder of the time we are free to enjoy the amenities of the center, most notably the ski trails. For a couple of XC skiing enthusiasts, what could be better?

We have it on good authority that they treat their volunteers well, as they are the life blood of the operation. And in fact most of them return year after year. Some stay the entire winter, but newcomers like us are encouraged to try it out on a shorter term basis. I'm sure they will be checking us out as much as we are them. The staff accomodations are reported to be 60's style motel rooms – right up our alley having spent night after night in budget motels on our cycling trip. And someone else will be doing the cooking – sounds good to me.

We check in tomorrow afternoon. Let the adventure begin!

Deep snow, silent woods

Posted on January 19, 2014 by Molly

Many times Susan and I have been snow challenged on our annual XC ski trip. Not this year. Snow was in abundance after about a foot of new snow fell on the North Shore the day before our trip. And more snow continued to fall and accumulate while we were there. Instead of navigating sparsely covered trails, we plowed through new snow still awaiting the arrival of the groomer. Or skied the latest powder into the previous set of tracks. While it was slow going, and we didn’t cover anywhere near our usual number of kilometers, we put out plenty of effort blazing the trail. And it was so worth it.

There’s nothing like the silence of new snow. It slid soundlessly under our skis as we plodded along. It glistened in the sunshine, sparkling like closely packed constellations. And it muffled everything around us. Whenever I stopped, there was a total absence of sound. I could tell when a large bird flew overhead, announced by the whoosh of the air as it flapped its wings.

The trees were cloaked in heavy layers of snow. Skiing through deep pine woods was like traveling through a tunnel, with walls of snowy pine boughs. So beautiful. So peaceful.

The sky overhead was that deep blue that only comes with cold dry air. It made for a striking background in contrast to the snowy pines and tall willowy deciduous tree limbs.

The sunshine had a palpable warmth that was as noticeable in its absence in the cool shade as it was radiating on our faces when we stopped to soak it up. Late afternoon brought fiery sunsets with a brilliant red glow in the sky.

Yes, it was a good year for snow. And a great year for striding through the woods.

Blogging on Two Wheels

Posted on October 3, 2013 by Molly

With a blog focused on “Life and the Outdoors in the Northland,” it was a natural for me to chronicle our latest bike trip, the Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour. I don’t consider it a stretch at all to expand the geographical reach of the Northland concept. The interesting thing is that blogging became an integral part of the trip, and in fact had a significant influence on our daily routine. Since Rich was also narrating the trip on the Crazy Guy on a Bike website, my passion did not create conflicting interests.

While we were cycling, which was most of the daytime hours, my attention was focused on the physical activity, the sights, the meals and the logistics of travel – as it should be. But my blog post was never far from my mind. What might today’s theme be? How best to describe this view? How can I work in this situation? What would be a good title? I was often composing as I went.

Taking photographs for my blog posts

Photography was equally impacted. Of course there were pictures of scenery, activities and landmarks that I wanted to take. But I also wove in photos that would illustrate the day’s post. If I fell behind Rich in an illogical spot, he would remark, “You must be blogging again. I didn’t see anything worthy of a photo.” He was usually right.

At the end of the day, our first priority was a shower. But second on the agenda was to download all our pictures. We each brought a nice Canon camera and a tablet, and once we transferred our pictures to the tablets, we’d weed out the bad ones and save the rest. Using each other’s pictures was entirely permissible, as it helped reduce duplication and we could choose from among the best shots. We weren’t fussy about attributing credit to each other as photographer. I just got a little testy when my photos showed up online before I’d even seen them yet.

Quickly publishing a blog post where the campground signal was the strongest

My tablet happens to be an iPad, and Blogsy is my app of choice for blogging on it. It integrates perfectly with WordPress and has the advantage of displaying my post in rich format instead of HTML, and offers formatting tools that are easy to use. Adding photos from my iPad’s native photo app is a cinch – just drag and drop, resize and add captions. Although most motels and even campgrounds had wifi, if I had no connection I could still fully compose my blog post offline in Blogsy. Then it was simply a matter of publishing the next time I found a signal.

Blogging is not a trivial activity. At least not for me. Many a night I’d be up late, wordsmithing in the dark with only the glow of my iPad screen to illuminate my work. Rich was much quicker to compose his posts, and he would shake his head at my obsession for finding just the right tone or phrase. Fortunately, he can sleep through my keyboard tapping.

I fully intended to be more economical about my blogging on this trip. Since it would last two months or more, I reasoned that periodic updates would be adequate. But I should have known myself better than that. I love to capture all my experiences in writing. It’s how they become real to me, by documenting them. So it was no surprise when my posts became nearly daily occurrences. What may have been overkill for my readers was really for my own benefit.

There’s no doubt that blogging on our cycling trip was a big commitment. To say it bluntly, it took up a lot of time. We could have been out seeing the sights of the local towns instead. But to be honest, after a full day of cycling, it was a grand excuse to sit and rest our weary legs and bodies. And I seriously doubt we missed much in the small towns where we stayed. Or so I tell myself.

A Tribute to Warm Showers

Posted on October 1, 2013 by Molly

There is no doubt about it. Warm Showers made the trip. We both agree whole heartedly that our 2-month cycling trip through Maine, the Canadian Maritimes and New Hampshire would not have been as enriching and heart warming without the hospitality of our hosts.

Warm Showers is an association of long distance cyclists who participate in a free lodging exchange. By joining, cyclists agree to host other traveling cyclists in their home or yard, and in return have access to a world-wide network of host homes. Finding a Warm Showers host is as easy as pulling up an app on a smartphone. It uses GPS and Google Maps to find your location, and shows you all hosts in close proximity. By tapping an icon, you can send a message to the host requesting accommodations. As a host, you can choose the level of hospitality that suits you – camping space, beds, food, laundry facilities and kitchen use are some of the options.

Hosting is rewarding in itself. We have met fascinating people traveling through Duluth on bicycle, with a wide range of itineraries and length of trip. And after the wealth of hospitality extended to us on our trips, we are eager to continue to repay that generosity.

All the people that opened their homes to us were so welcoming and made us feel right at home. They not only provided us with hot showers and comfy beds, but let us give our hand laundered clothes a thorough wash in their laundries. And we were so well fed! Other cyclists totally understand the insatiable hunger and need for calories generated by long distance cycling – even if we didn’t quite recognize it ourselves. We ate many a gourmet meal and feasted on local delicacies. Equally enjoyable was the opportunity to use the kitchen and do a little home cooking ourselves for a change.

Because the network is comprised entirely of cyclists, by definition we always had a great deal in common with our hosts. And we knew in advance that they would have values similar to our own. Conversation was easy as we shared cycling experiences. We were wowed by the extensive travels our hosts had completed, and inspired by their destinations and cycling philosophies. As relative neophytes to long distance cycling, we always learned useful tips from our hosts. They were also the best source on local cycling. We avoided bad routes, enjoyed the best scenery and got the scoop on good eateries all through their sound advice.

But the biggest benefit of all was the local knowledge we gained. Had we merely cycled through on our own, we would have missed out on learning about the local history, customs and culture. The in-depth personal perspectives they shared with us were the gem stones of our trip. From understanding the background of the Acadians to getting the inside scoop on developing national geological parks, we found it all fascinating. We watched one host’s lobster boat arrive at the wharf, followed his catch from there to our dinner table and learned about the lobster industry. Our extensive tour through Old Quebec was led and narrated by new local cycling friends. Some hosts drove us to see local sights – places that were not on our direct route, and otherwise would have missed.

We knew that staying in Warm Showers homes would be useful, but in no way did we foresee just how it would shape our travels and enrich the memories of our trip. To all our wonderful hosts – who now feel like good friends – we owe a debt of thanks. And we sincerely hope that they cross our threshold in Duluth one day.

Gaspé Tour by the Numbers

Posted on September 29, 2013 by Molly

My analytical brain can’t resist the urge to look at a few stats from our Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour. Naturally I kept detailed notes on the trip, and Rich was amazed and amused at some of the obscure information I was able to assemble. Here is a sample:

Days and Mileage. We planned to cycle an average of 60 miles a day and take one rest day a week for a overall average of 50 miles per day. In reality, we weren’t very good at taking rest days, but we did take some “rolling rest days” with short mileage. We also cut back on miles when cycling the tough stretches with hills or headwinds.

54 total days, 2,354 miles
5 rest days with NO cycling
43.6 miles per day total, 48 miles per cycling day
longest day 74 miles (rainy ride to Machias, Maine)
shortest day 9 miles (finishing day to Exeter, NH)
6 days with rain – only one of those was a rest day

Lodging. We hoped to camp 1/3 of the time, use Warm Showers1/3 and stay in motels 1/3. We were disappointed not to be able to camp more, but cut back when each of us got sick and when the weather turned cold and wet. We were pleasantly surprised how well we did with Warm Showers, given that many areas were very sparsely populated.

7 nights camping
15 nights in Warm Showers homes
5 nights in Inns, gîtes or B&Bs
26 nights in motels

Repairs. We fared extremely well in this department. Our bikes were trusty steeds indeed.

3 flat tires – inner tube replaced (Rich)
1 tire ripped – replaced (Rich)
Slipping gears – derailers fixed (Molly)

Weight we propelled. It wasn’t until the night before the last day of our trip that we thought to ask for a scale to weigh our gear. We knew we were traveling light, but had never quantified it before.

Molly – 30 lb gear + 27 lb bike = 57 lb
Rich – 33 lb gear + 30 lb bike = 63 lb

The fun stuff.

11 lighthouses visited (we saw a lot more than this)
18 ice cream stops (we fell behind on this when it turned cold and we began to substitute soup breaks)
7 coffeehouse stops (lattes for me)
1,045 pictures taken (keepers)
106 blog posts (between the two of us, to date)

Overall rating. No matter how you slice and dice it, it was a fantastic trip.

The Finish Line

Posted on September 28, 2013 by Molly

We're done. We finished. The Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour is over. So how does it feel? I have a myriad of conflicting emotions.

Sad to see it end. That's the overriding feeling for me. It was such a great experience that I just didn't want it to end. We had our cycling routine down to such a well honed process that it felt like we could carry on forever. We still felt strong. We had nothing but positive memories. We loved every minute (okay nearly every minute) of it. But perhaps that's what made it such a good time to stop. We definitely ended on a high point.

A Sense of Accomplishment. We did it! When we were planning the trip, it seemed like an audacious goal. And it was. But in the process of breaking the 2,354 miles down into daily chunks, I saw it more as a journey than a number to attain. Sure the miles mounted up, but upon completing the total it felt less like a victory than I thought it would. The compilation of rich experiences now deposited in my life bank of personal history was far more meaningful than any measure of distance traveled.

Thankful. We have so many reasons to be grateful. The fact that we covered all those miles safely was truly a blessing. We traveled entirely without incident and didn't even have any near-misses. Meeting so many wonderful people was such a privilege. And our Warm Showers hosts truly took care of us during each of our stays. We finished the tour with a plethora of new friends.

Fortunate. How many people have an opportunity to do something like this? I feel so very lucky to have the good health, strong body and financial resources to spend two months on such an amazing adventure. And I am so fortunate to have a like-minded husband who is as gung-ho (some use the word “crazy”) as I am to embark on such a trip. After spending 54 straight days together 24×7, our relationship is stronger than ever.

Ready to be home. Having stopped cycling and focusing only on our day-to-day progress, I have begun to turn my sights toward home. Our calendar for the next few months was a blank slate, but already I have started filling it in. I'm excited to re-engage in the lives of our kids and grandkids. I look forward to getting together with friends. I'm ready to resume my volunteer activities and freelance writing assignments. And I can't wait to cook and bake again!

Eager to do it again. It's hard to let go. And so our thoughts naturally turn to the next cycling tour. This trip has increased our confidence in our ability to cycle long distances and handle tough conditions like hills, wind and rain. We have a better sense of our limitations and how to manage them on such a trip. And we learned a lot about how to plan as we go. I choose not to look at this as the finish line. Instead, I hope it's only the starting line.

Happy cyclists in the Appalachians in Québec

The Final Stretch

Posted on September 27, 2013 by Molly

Progress to date: 54 days, 2,354 miles

We divided our last 53 miles of the Grand Gaspé Cycling Tour into two days. Not out of necessity. More for the timing of our grand finale.

I will be the first to say the initial leg was not inspiring. Leaving Concord, traffic was heavy and there was not much in the way of scenery or interesting towns. We passed almost 30 miles that way and I found it rather depressing. The weather was beautiful, but I just could not generate much enthusiasm for the ride. It's hard to say what contributed more, the mundane route, the lack of coffee or the impending finish to our trip. I suspect the latter had the most to do with it.

Finding happiness at The Big Bean in Newmarket

The day brightened considerably in the second half. Turning off onto smaller roads, we lost all the traffic and wound our way through delightful countryside populated with orchards, farms and pretty towns. The sunshine became warm and the fall colors shimmered in its light. And we mostly coasted downhill. The world became good again, especially when we reached Newmarket in the early afternoon and found a delightful coffeehouse. Re-caffeinating with an excellent latte accompanied by a hummus wrap of equal quality, soaking up the sun and local scene was just what I needed. It's amazing what a salve food and drink can be. And ambiance.

With extra time on our hands before our Warm Showers hosts were home, we meandered around the pretty former mill town. The mill buildings had been converted into condos and eclectic shopping areas, making them an enhancement to the town center.

Mill condos and shopping area decor

Relaxing in our hosts' yard

Our Warm Showers home provided a delightful final night's stay. We were adopted not only by our hosts, Heidi and Cliff, but given a warm welcome by Heidi's mom, Lucy. We shared a birthday dinner for Cliff with their son and long term friends and duplex neighbors. Naturally, they are all avid cyclists and runners, so there was no lack of material for conversation. And as always, we were inspired by their pursuits.

Beginning the last leg of our trip

With the dawn of the inevitable last day, we had to face it. The last nine miles of cycling. We set off just like any other morning of our trip, but in contrast to the other days, we completed our journey – and our trip – in under an hour.

Before we knew it, we were in Exeter. Where we started 54 days and 2,354 miles earlier. It was a quiet entrance as we meandered across the Academy campus. But things soon picked up. Rich granted another interview, this time for the Academy newspaper. And we stopped to visit with the wonderful staff members in the Alumni and Security offices who arranged the logistics of leaving our car there for two months. The warm welcome and congratulations extended all along the way boosted our spirits and helped ease the finality of our arrival.

A pretty route to enter Exeter

Interview for The Exonian

Finishing where we started on August 3

The true finish line

It felt strange to be reunited with our car and load up the bikes. Our daughter left us a voicemail that morning, reminding us just how cars work – in case we'd forgotten. The best part is going up hills, she said. “Just push down on the right pedal – no additional effort required. You just won't have the wind blowing through your hair,” she advised. As appealing as it sounds, I know we'll miss the cycling. We're already contemplating our next cycling trip. Just not right away.

Superior Footprints

Life and the Outdoors in the Northland

Category Archives: Keeping Fit

This is more like it!

XC Skiing Mountain Style

Our new home away from home

The Latest Adventure

Deep snow, silent woods

Blogging on Two Wheels

A Tribute to Warm Showers

Gaspé Tour by the Numbers

The Finish Line

The Final Stretch

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