A Superior Ride

Posted on July 24, 2014 by Molly

One of my favorite summer things is getting out early to enjoy the cool am temperatures and the beautiful first morning sunlight. Since summer was so long in reaching Duluth this year, it’s only been within the last week that this idea was even worth considering. But today was the perfect opportunity.

Soon after sunrise Rich and I loaded our bikes on the car and headed out to West Duluth. Our destination: Superior, Wisconsin. We parked on the Duluth end of the Bong Bridge, mounted our bikes and proceeded to cross over the bay on the bridge. The bridge was wonderfully bicycle-friendly, with a dedicated bike lane that was well protected from traffic. As luck would have it, we also had a scenic view of the St. Louis River basin on our side of the bridge. With the rising sun behind us and calm waters in the bay, we had lovely views of the railway bridge and surrounding waterway.

We entered Superior in the Billings Park area of the city. There we were immediately able to access the bay, first on city streets and then on a bike trail through the park that was literally within feet of the water’s edge. With the water reflecting the morning’s scenery and fluffy clouds, it was an idyllic landscape. Leaving the park, we entered a beautiful neighborhood full of impressive houses and steeply rolling hills. Still within proximity of the water, it was easy to imagine the luxury of the homes with waterfront property. It was early and quiet enough that we managed to get within photo distance of a gray fox just down the road.

We continued on into the Superior Municipal Forest and traveled part of the Millennium Trail. There wildflowers grew in abundance as the trail wound through woodland areas and meadows. It was a peaceful trail, and clearly a popular destination for runners and dog walkers out for their morning rounds.

It was a pleasure to return via the coastal trail and back over the bridge for a second opportunity to enjoy the views. The sun was still low enough to provide its warm glow to the scenes. And going the opposite direction provided a different perspective on everything. This time the railway bridge was closed, and in fact a pair of locomotives crossed the bridge as we watched. I had no idea that such beauty lay right across the harbor, with such easy access by bicycle. I just never thought to look at it from the other side before. It was clearly a Superior ride.

Trying to Beat the Heat

Posted on July 22, 2014 by Molly

It’s not often that the temperatures in Duluth reach 90 degrees. And after the three week string of 40-degree weather we had in June, hitting that mark seemed inconceivable. But today was the day. There was no mistaking it.

It was the kind of day where it was impossible to escape the heat. With the humidity also close to the 90% mark, the hot sticky air seemed to envelope everything, particularly one’s body. But there were plenty of people seeking all sorts of ways to try and cool off. Myself included.

My choice was to head up the shore on my bike. Although the air was hot, it still felt better to be creating my own breeze. There was little respite from Lake Superior, despite the fact that it remains chilly. I had only occasional cool spells when there were no trees between me and the lake. But I welcomed each and everyone of them. Along the way I enjoyed people watching and surveying the variety of ways folks flocked to the water to relieve the summer heat.

Lake Superior was a natural. Brighton Beach attracted its share of families, but they didn’t venture very far into the lake. There’s cooling off, and then there’s frigid. The lake was the latter.It’s not often one sees a jet-ski in Lake Superior, but the water was so calm today that it invited such activity. I can’t say I’ve ever seen a double before! Lester River had its share of swimmers, and the youngsters seemed to enjoy jumping off the rocks into the water.However that was nothing compared to the feats of the local teenage crowd. Lower down the river, they demonstrated their fearlessness on a rope swing attached to the railroad bridge. Others jumped straight from the rock cliff.But nothing beats The Deeps for daring do. Right there in our own back yard, the water hole beneath the waterfall on Amity Creek is a magnet for teenagers, eager to show off by jumping from increasing heights above the pool. I found it chilling enough just to watch. There’s something for everyone here. It just takes the rare day that we have to go to such lengths to beat the heat here in Duluth.

The Rainy Lake Experience

Posted on July 8, 2014 by Molly

When friends invited us to visit their cabin on Rainy Lake, we jumped at the chance to see their place and the famed lake on the border of Minnesota and Canada. Like us, they have a “true cabin,” with just the basic amenities and lots of character. But the similarities end at the shoreline.

As soon as we arrived, we were recruited to outfit the boat for an afternoon on the lake. With respectable waves and the sheer size of the lake, a good sized boat and motor are a necessity. Theirs is an old workhorse of a boat, but stable and large enough to take us across the expansive open waters. And hold all the fixings for our adventure. We soon began to learn what Rainy Lake was all about.

Lesson number 1. A boat ride on Rainy Lake can take all afternoon and still cover only a tiny fraction of the lake. With 360 square miles of water, almost 1,000 miles of shoreline and about 2,500 islands, there are endless areas to explore. Our friends took us to their favorite spots, starting with the dam and waterfall. There we clambered down to the base of the falls to see the thundering rush of the water from the recent flooding.

Lesson number 2. It’s like being in the Boundary Waters. The tall pines, rocky outcroppings and lack of population all reminded me of the solitary feeling one gets in the Boundary Waters. In all of our wanderings we spotted only two other boats. We saw plenty of scenery, fascinating birds and natural beauty instead. And there was always something new around the next bend.

Lesson number 3. Shore lunch doesn’t necessarily mean fish. The first step was selecting an appealing island. We then built a rock fire scar (that was a new term to me), hunted down dry wood and started up a fire to cook our lunch – brats. They were mighty tasty cooked in the open air with a beautiful view of the lake from our perch on a huge rock.

Lesson number 4. Bring along a photographer husband to catch the magical moments. Rich was in his element with birds in abundance, and we all got a kick out of “bird island” with its population of pelicans. The best part was watching their comical take-off as we approached.

Lesson number 5. The lake is best appreciated when seen through the eyes of those who love it. Our friends have gotten to know Rainy Lake through four generations of cabin life. Our tour narrative was rich in stories woven with family history.

The only fitting end to this day on an amazing lake was a sauna. In this case, a wood-fired sauna which proved to be blistering hot. That was enough to get me into the lake. Jumping off the dock into chilling water over my head was both a shock and relief. All part of the Rainy Lake experience.

What Summer?

Posted on June 28, 2014 by Molly

This post was inevitable. There is only so long I can be a good sport about the lack of warmth and sunshine on this side of Lake Superior before I too succumb to whining about it. I think my outdoor thermometer is permanently stuck on 46 degrees. That’s what it says every morning. Without fail. And we’re lucky if it climbs past the mid-50s during the day. Sigh. We love you, Lake Superior, but even now that the ice has melted your frigid waters continue to have an ice box effect on what used to be summer.

I may have to stop listening to Minnesota Public Radio. The weather forecasts are just too depressing. I begin to get hopeful when I hear the temperatures climbing into the 70s and 80s, only to have my hopes dashed when the inevitable “cooler by the lake” phrase creeps in.

Not only is Lake Superior thwarting our attempt at summer, it has disappeared. The cold water continually spawns thick fog which blankets the lake and creeps into town, rendering Lake Superior invisible even when standing on the shore. Our recent cyclist guests were convinced the lake was a myth – after all, they couldn’t see it. Duluth was no more appealing to them than any other Midwestern town.

Fortunately, we have an escape. Our cabin Up North. Despite being closer to the Canadian border, the secret is that it is inland, 100 miles away from Lake Superior. Far from the reaches of that cold, cold water.

When we lived in the Twin Cities, I always thought there was something backwards about going to a cabin where the weather was always cooler than home. Spending time on the lake was wonderful, and it was the best retreat ever, but it was always on the chilly side. Now that we have moved to Duluth, it appears that nature has righted itself. A trip to the cabin now means summer and warm weather. Thankfully. I can’t wait to get there for our annual 4th of July week with the family – for many reasons, weather included.

We had a wonderful time there over Memorial Day. It was hot and sunny, and we played with the grandkids in the water on the beach. It really felt like summer, including the nights that were too warm to allow a good night’s sleep, even with fans. The only blemish on that weekend were the plumbing problems we encountered. Lest you think this is an unrelated side track, wait until you hear the cause. Just yesterday, June 26, we hired a plumber to come out to fix the problem. Which he did. By thawing the ice that was plugging the pipes underground!

It’s no wonder I fear that summer is going to pass us by this year.

Evening Arrivals

Posted on June 1, 2014 by Molly

It’s not often that the Aerial Bridge opens just once for two boats. So when we saw the pair of boats headed for the canal, Rich and I quickly headed down to see them. It just so happened we were already nearby and had our camera equipment in the car – not so much of a coincidence, really.

Too cheap to pay for parking in Canal Park now that tourist season has begun, we headed over the bridge and planted ourselves on the south pier. The sun was already behind the hill, but for a short period of time the boats were far enough out to catch the day’s last remaining rays of light. It made for a pleasing effect reflecting off the superstructures in the otherwise dim light of the evening.

They boats were a motley pair. Out front was the Lakes Contender, which is really a flat barge with a custom tugboat cleverly tucked into a slot in the back end to propel it down the lake. Behind that was the Pilica, a saltie that flies the Maltese flag but is owned by the Polish Steamship Company, was built in Poland and carries a Polish crew. That vessel had much more pleasing lines.

Rich and I took up different stations along the pier, each testing out different camera settings and composition. The boats glided almost soundlessly through the canal as our cameras clicked and whirred. Once past a reasonable position for a good photo, I could stop and take it in with my own eyes instead of through the viewfinder. It’s infinitely more enjoyable that way, but that’s hard to remember when in pursuit of good photographs.

Although it was a cool evening, the wind had dropped and I found I was oblivious to the chill while watching the popular spectacle. After a long absence due to the late spring and ice-clogged lake, it is wonderful to have frequent shipping traffic once again. And evening is a magical time to watch the boats come in off the lake and welcome them through the bridge.

Duluth’s legendary ice

Posted on May 28, 2014 by Molly

Here it is May 28, and we still have ice on the lake. That’s no surprise to anyone who spent the winter here. There is no doubt we had sufficiently cold temperatures to generate enough ice to last a lifetime. Or at least into June – we think.

Some days it’s here along the Duluth shore. Other days the wind sends it over to the Wisconsin side. Today, the floating remnants filled the rocky shoreline along the Canal Park portion of the Lakewalk. Although it was a brilliantly sunny day, the NE wind swept down the lake to maintain a permanent chill in the air. It didn’t feel like a whole lot of melting was going on.

Being a weekday, visitors were sparse. But those who lingered after the Memorial Day weekend were clearly intrigued with this wintry phenomenon. The ice featured prominently in many a tourist photo.

I just missed getting to the bridge in time to see the Paul R. Tregurtha arrive. But I did catch the current it generated. Ice floes bobbed in the canal, gliding under the bridge and into the harbor well after the boat disappeared from view.

It would appear that the Vista fleet is finally able to venture out into the lake for its tours, after weeks of being confined to the harbor. Those on board seemed thrilled with the ride, including the now famous ice.

With June 1 just four days away, the possibility of still having ice on Lake Superior looks pretty good. Time will tell if this ice breaks that barrier. I hope so. It’s the stuff legends are made of.

Embracing the Wind

Posted on April 28, 2014 by Molly

We didn’t need the weather forecast to tell us it was an ugly day. We could tell just by listening to the wind howl and seeing the drab wet skies. Just to emphasize the point, we discovered that a huge pine tree had fallen behind our house during the night. It was so tall, it nearly reached the neighbor’s house from the lot line where it once stood. So sad – it takes years and years to grow them that tall.

So what does one do in such nasty weather? Why go out and watch it, of course. We jumped into the car with our cameras and headed up the North Shore to get a look at Mother Nature in all her fury. With 30+ mph winds blasting out of the NE, there had to be some enormous waves. Duluth was socked in by ice, brought in by that very same wind, so our plan was to outdrive it and find open water.

Stony Point was our first stop, and it didn’t disappoint. Watching the waves from the car was impressive, with high flying spray that soaked the rocks right up to the road. We were content to take it all in from the protection of our vehicle, then decided we had to get out. Just opening the car door I could feel the strength of the wind. Standing up in it and trying to steady a camera was another matter. What power. It’s no wonder my photos didn’t do justice to the wind and the waves.

Our next destination was Split Rock Lighthouse. We expected to see spectacular waves pounding the base of the lighthouse. But we didn’t take into account that the best view was from the leeward side of the beacon. Naturally the waves would be crashing on the other side. But rounding the corner from our vantage point, we found a bay with a lot of action. It also had the advantage of being sheltered from the wind. We could watch the crashing waves and snap photos in the relative comfort of the protected bay.

It was cold and wet, but the car was warm. And there was that comforting latte from the Mocha Moose on the way home. Yes, I’m glad we embraced the wind and the opportunity for a morning’s adventure.

Morning Harbor Rounds

Posted on April 16, 2014 by Molly

Nearly every day, Rich goes off on his morning rounds. Camera in hand, he’s in search of birds, sunrise or both. I usually opt for an early morning run, or other outdoor workout. But this morning’s “springy” 18 degree temperature with a cold wind gave me pause to reconsider running in the afternoon sunshine instead. Since Rich’s route would take him around the harbor this morning, I decided to accompany him. I may not be a bird aficionado, but I do so love the water.

IMG_3802 trimmed We began our harbor tour at Miller Creek, and worked our way eastward. There we found a flock of Canada geese who weren’t too pleased with our intrusion. They immediately fled from the open water onto the wet ice, some of them comically falling through the thin glaze in their haste. And they did add some local flavor to the distant view of the bridge.

From there we went to the end of Garfield Avenue, under the High Bridge (since the day it was built, that will forever be its name to me!). At the old Interstate Bridge, now converted to a walking and fishing pier, we were met by yet more geese. They were equally thrilled with our presence.

I’d never walked out on the old bridge, and this was a beautiful morning to do so. I loved the way they suspended the walkway under the old railroad bridge span, that used to swing freely on one end to form an opening for boat traffic. The repetition and symmetry of the bridge parts appealed to me, as well as the contrast between the old weather beaten wood and the gleaming metal framework of the High Bridge.

Behind the Arena (okay, another old name) we found the ice cutter Mackinaw. In preparation for leading a convoy of boats to the Sault, it was being serviced by not one but two oil trucks. Who would have thought that would still necessary in mid-April?

No harbor visit would be complete without Canal Park. The gates to the end of the south pier had opened within the last few days, so we crossed over the bridge to walk down its length. A hearty fisherman was peering over the side as he brought in not a fish but a thermometer. Thirty-two degrees he declared. Brrrr! Everything’s a month behind, he informed us.

I was fascinated to learn recently that the Inner South Breakwater Lighthouse is actually owned by two citizens of Duluth. Deemed no longer necessary by the Coast Guard, and with no interested non-profit organizations, it was purchased through an online auction. Interesting just what you can buy on the web.

Rich got his bird photos, and I relished my time beside the water. The brisk sunny morning left me chilled but happy with my choice. It was a good morning for hanging around the harbor. And I really enjoyed my afternoon run.

Music in the Park

Posted on April 7, 2014 by Molly

We’d seen the signs all week long. Music in the Park on Sunday evening. It was an alluring invitation – right in the development, a warm summery evening, and only a bike ride away. With Dad feeling tired and interested in going to bed early, we decided to treat ourselves to a night out.

Approaching the park, we were amazed to see the line-up of cars. And even more surprised by the golf cart that passed us, with a glass of wine in the hand of the passenger! Realizing that the event was in a private venue, it suddenly dawned on us that anything was fair game. Indeed, all around us were gourmet picnic spreads, bottles of wine, and even tables with balloons. We arrived with two cans of pop and the remnants of a bag of pretzels in hand.

Without lawn chairs, we settled Concert ourselves on an open patch of grass and flipped open our pop. Clearly we were a pitiable site, as we soon had offers of a blanket, food and wine from the friendly people around us. Being good Minnesotans, we politely declined several times. But we could hold out only so long, and ultimately succumbed to glasses of very nice red wine.

The music turned out to be lively and fun. While enjoying the doo wop rock, blues and classic country music of the 50s and early 60s, the concert was suddenly interrupted by sirens. The Blues Brothers arrived via an old police car with a classic Bellaire sheriff’s vehicle in pursuit! They joined the musicians and doubled the entertainment. Between the music and the warm evening, it was a great time.

Blues Brothers and Molly We decided it was best to leave before dark, which just happened to be when the Blues Brothers made their exit. Naturally, they clamored for a picture with me, so I graciously obliged!

In the words of the musicians, “Oh what a night…”

Escape from Everlasting Winter

Posted on April 1, 2014 by Molly

In a winter already renowned for it’s below zero temperatures and lasting deep snow on the ground, we faced yet another winter storm warning just as April approached. We were plenty accustomed to bracing for storms, but this one held another threat for us. The impending nasty weather perfectly coincided with our scheduled departure for Florida. Our escape was in jeopardy.

But the preparations went on. It was hard enough to make sense of the t-shirts, shorts and sandals piled on the bed to be packed. Envisioning wearing them was even more of a challenge. It must have had a lot to do with the piles of snow staring at us through the windows.

Fortunately, weather forecasts are imperfect at best, and this storm failed to materialize as early as predicted. We breezed up to the Duluth airport and our flight departed right on time. Whew! Let the storm rage, now that we were safely out of its reach.

Canal Park by Air – taken by Rich Hoeg

Our flight path took us right over Canal Park where Rich took a dramatic photo out the window. Lake Superior’s icy surface was ubiquitous. The open channel through the Aerial Bridge showed up in stark contrast, and quickly dissolved into tightly clustered ice chunks which gave way to solid ice. Clearly the hard work of the Coast Guard ice cutters was short lived. It was easy to see why the nascent shipping season had come to a rapid halt.

Florida feels like another world. It’s green everywhere, flowers are in bloom, and the sun sheds a genuine warmth. In fact, sitting in the sun reading my book I get hot. But I’m not complaining. Running early in the morning is refreshingly cool, and my natural impulse is to avoid the wet spots from the automatic sprinklers. But the ice I expect is far from reality. What pure joy!

To double our pleasure, we check the webcam back home. Ooh boy, does it look ugly looking down our front steps. Icy rain splatters the windows and it just plain looks cold. My weather app reports dangerous high winds, and friends confirm the terrible driving conditions. It’s a winter storm all right, not an April Fool’s joke. Or is it?

No matter. We have escaped for now. We will worry about the everlasting part when we return.

Superior Footprints

Life and the Outdoors in the Northland

Category Archives: Life Up North

A Superior Ride

Trying to Beat the Heat

The Rainy Lake Experience

What Summer?

Evening Arrivals

Duluth’s legendary ice

Embracing the Wind

Morning Harbor Rounds

Music in the Park

Escape from Everlasting Winter

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