Category Archives: Outdoors

A Social Ski

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There’s no denying it.  After the Birkie  the pressure is off.  No more push to get in more and more kilometers.  No more anxiety over doing a weekly long ski.  Now is the time to go out and ski for the mere pleasure of it.  That sounds bad – like it’s a grueling regimen and something we “have to do” when training for the Birkie.  Not so, really.  I enjoy the demands of that process too.  But there is a difference.

This morning dawned clear, sunny and cold.  I was very surprised to see the temperature had fallen below zero.  But at this time of year the rising sun quickly warms the air and by mid morning it was already in the mid-20s.

A friend came over and the two of us walked over to the Lester/Amity ski trails.  We donned our classic skis and headed down the tracks. This was not a speed session, it was all about sharing a love for the outdoors, the sport, a workout and friendship.  We talked as we skied, covering myriad topics as we poled and kicked.  Hesitating at intersections became a good excuse stop and talk some more.  We ran into a good friend and fellow skier, and of course spent time talking to him.  It was the epitome of a relaxed outing yet we still covered many kilometers at a decent pace.

IMG_9544The day had all the nuances of a spring day, with warm sunshine, brilliant snow, deep blue sky and warm temps.  The snow and trail conditions were far too good for spring skiing, but we had all the benefits of what felt like balmy weather.  Kids from the local grade school were out with teachers and parents practicing their skiing skills.  They couldn’t have picked a better day.  Adults populated the trail, all happy to exchange greetings and exclaim over the beautiful day.  I’d never seen so many people out mid-day.  It was the kind of day where I wanted to stay out and keep skiing forever.  In fact, I’ll admit to returning to ski again later with my skate skis.

At this stage in the winter, every day of skiing could be our last.  One good melt can turn the trails into either an icy or a muddy mess.  It made this ski even sweeter.

Yes, there are benefits to having the races behind us.  Social skiing is definitely one of them.

Snowshoe Delight

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After a winter spent diligently plying the ski trails, it was the perfect day to change our tune and head out on snowshoes.  With the Birkie behind us, all sense of urgency for training had dissipated.  The brilliant sunshine and the deep fresh new snow just begged for an afternoon of discovery.  My son, Erik, and I answered that siren’s call.

Living on the far edge of Duluth, the vast beauty of the North Shore beckoned, and we sought out the nearby Sucker River for our trek.  Starting from Old North Shore Road, we were a bit off-put by a large group of snowshoers that preceded us down the trail to the river, and even less thrilled by the snowmobile trampled path that led upstream where we’d intended to go.  So it was an easy decision to head the opposite direction, and we were well rewarded for our choice.

IMG_0463That section of the river was unspoiled by snowmobile tracks and had only vague signs of earlier snowshoe imprints before the last deep snowfall.  The snow was blindingly white as it reflected the bright sunlight, and we sank deeply into the thick fresh powder as we made our way downstream.  We saw only one set of skiers and a couple of hikers along the way.  The rest was virgin territory for us.  It was exactly what we’d come for.

IMG_0487The snow was soft and moist in the near-freezing air, perfect for a snowman.  Erik couldn’t resist the opportunity to create a friend along the way.  The warmth of the sun quickly dissipated in the shady areas, sending us a chill, but rewarmed us immediately upon returning to its toasty rays.

Reaching the shore of Lake Superior, we were treated to a beauty of a different nature.  The ice coating the lake near shore was thin and fragile, stacking itself into piles of delicate tiles that floated on the softly undulating water.  It made a tinkling sound as it bobbed up and down, and broke into glassy shards when it encountered a nearby rock.  It was mesmerizing to watch and listen to its gentle sounds.

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We traveled only 3.5 kilometers, down the river and back.  But it was a rich and satisfying hike that allowed us to unwind and enjoy nature’s beauty without constraint.  It’s what a sunny winter afternoon should be.  It was sheer delight.

Skiing Lake Superior by Candlelight

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How could anyone find skiing or snowshoeing across the frozen ice of Lake Superior at night to be enticing?  Apparently, a lot of people do!

Imagine yourself at the start line.  You are surrounded by throngs of people on skis and snowshoes, some in silly costumes.  You see people of all ages, many of them families with youngsters.  Clearly this is not a highly competitive ski race, although those at the front might think otherwise.  The sun has set, darkness is descending as well as the temperature, and there is a palpable energy in the crowd.  Following the national anthem, and an energetic “Go!” you set off.

Book Across the Bay routeWhere are you?  It’s Book Across the Bay, an annual cross-country ski and snowshoe race on a 10k trail groomed across Chequamegon Bay of Lake Superior.   What started as just a crazy idea in 1996 with 350 participants has grown into an annual event that drew nearly 4,000 people this year.  The hallmark of this race is that it is lit by about 1,000 ice luminaries, with bonfires every kilometer.

BATB 1We were part of the excitement last Saturday night for our third year in a row.  We started off by skiing to the starting line, as the sun was setting.  Preparations were in full swing, with luminaries being lit, wood for the bonfires in piles, and pine trees marking the 1k intervals.  Hearty volunteers were cheerfully setting up tents and doing some last minute snow shoveling out on the ice.

BATB 4We arrived at the starting point in Ashland just 10 minutes before the start of the race – perfect timing, as the temperature was dipping into the single digits under a clear sky.  Dusk quickly transformed into darkness as we set off with all the other skiers.  Once the crowds thinned out, silence reigned with only the swish of our skis or the flop of snowshoes to alert us of other people nearby.  Skiing under brilliant stars with the string of candlelight stretching across the bay was intoxicating.  The snow cover was excellent and the groomers had done a marvelous job of preparing the trail.  Still, in the dim light one had to take the surface on faith and navigate carefully over the few inevitable rough icy spots along the way.

We could see each kilometer mark off in the distance, lit by a blazing bonfire.  Some sponsors created a theme, including trees with Christmas lights.  My favorite is always the one by the huge offshore rock at 8k, lit with flaming tiki lamps alongside the cliffs at the shoreline.  This year there was an added feature – a fire-breathing dragon carved out of snow, belching real fireballs!

08-Canon-FireworksThe finale in Washburn includes fireworks, and this year they began before we reached the finish line.  What a festive atmosphere, to ski the final kilometer punctuated by brilliant bursts of light and color high in the sky!  From there it was a quick jaunt up the landing to shed our skis and warm ourselves by the enormous bonfire on shore.  A huge warm tent awaited us with bowls of hot chili and a band providing music for the after-party.10-Canon-Bonfire

 

 

Who could resist such ambiance?  Not us – we can’t wait to do it again next year.

 

Many thanks to my husband, Rich (aka the NorthStar Nerd), for the photos.

Skis, Snow and Wind in Mora

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As the Mora Vasaloppet cross-country ski race approached, and snow did not, we carefully monitored the race news.  The lack of snow forced race officials to move the course to Knife Lake, which meant shortening the races and looping around the lake’s perimeter on a trail created on top of the ice, rather than skiing through the woods.  Fortunately, there was just enough snow to cover the last 13k from the lake to Mora,  allowing the race to finish on Main Street.  And compared to last year, when it had to be cancelled completely due to lack of snow, we were grateful that the race was on!

In stark contrast, the weather report for race day included a Winter Storm Warning which predicted 8-12″ of snow and increasing winds throughout the day.  Would it really materialize?  Or would it fizzle, as so many snow forecasts seem to do these days?  Only time would tell.

Rich Mora Classic Race

photo courtesy of SkinnySki.com

We were relived to find that the snowfall had not yet started when we made our way to Mora in the early morning hours before the race.  But the threat was still there.  Rich was the first to make his way to the starting line, as his classic race started an hour before the skate race that Erik and I had entered.  As his race was only 26k and included just one loop around the lake, Rich was within 5k of the finish line before the snow started.

Erik and I did not fair as well.  One of Mora’s signature features is the line of huge bonfires near the start, to keep skiers warm while waiting for the race to begin.  Standing there next to the lake, we could feel the fury of the wind as it whipped across the lake.  Indeed, the announcer confirmed our suspicions informing racers that the first 7k around the lake would be directly into the wind.  Oh boy…

Erik

photo courtesy of SkinnySki.com

By the time we started, so had the snow.  Big fat flakes came down that looked pretty in the distance, but in reality whipped into our faces like pin pricks and stung our eyes.  Skiing into the wind was like pushing against an immovable force.  That was compounded by the powdery, sugary snow we plowed through on the trail they had created.  The depth and consistency changed frequently, with ice showing through at times, making forward progress inconsistent.  Add to that being blinded by the snow, and it was like skiing into the unknown!

Relief came when we turned toward the opposite shore and rode the wind back to the beginning of the circle.  Minutes lost earlier were made up sailing in front of the blast, and we had some relief from the snow in our eyes.  It was even enjoyable.  But our euphoria didn’t last.  We’d signed up for the longest race, which although shortened to 40k meant two laps around the lake.  Soon we were battling the gale once again, convinced it was stronger and snowier than the first time around.  A skier next to me asked “When will this hill ever end?”  Despite the flat terrain of the lake, I knew just what he meant!  The lake was obliterated by the snow, and the tracks swept by the wind.  With the skiers spreading out, I found myself on my own hoping I was still following the right course.

Eventually we made it off the lake for the final 13k to Mora.  That final section was on the local ski trails, and we had to retrain our legs to go up and down real hills.  The woods were a welcome wind break, although the snow continued to find us, adhering to our bodies, hair and eyelashes.

Mora Finish LineThe end of the Mora Vasaloppet is always a thrill, and despite the conditions, this year did not disappoint.  One final hill takes skiers up to an old schoolhouse, and then it’s a short ski down Main Street to the finish line.  There women in traditional IMG_9551Swedish costumes hand out medals, and locals dish up their famous blueberry soup.  There’s nothing like it – hot and sweet!  I looked like an icicle by that point, but no matter – I finished.

 

 

Thank you to SkinnySki.com for the above two photos.

Chasing the groomer

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With multiple recent snowfalls of 3″ or more, skiing – and grooming – the local trails has been a challenge.  The groomers just finished covering all 65 kilometers on five IMG_9511ski trails in Duluth on Wednesday when they were buried again the next day with fresh snow.  The deep soft snow makes skiing slow and tiring but incredibly beautiful.  And after one and a half winters of meager snowfall, we cross-country skiers are thrilled with this turnabout.

I headed over to the ski trails early this morning.  I was eager for a morning ski, the quietest part of the day with few other skiers making the rounds.  Having just been groomed two days ago, I figured the likelihood of another pass by the groomers was low, and I’d just deal with the deep snow.  And I was right.  Mostly.  As I completed my first loop around the system, I saw the Pisten-Bully heading my way, coming up from the very bottom of the trail.  I waited for the massive machine to pass then skied the opposite way to give him a head start, hoping he’d stay ahead of me clearing the trails for my second lap.

With all the loops, side trails and connectors, grooming the system has to be something like a mathematical equation, figuring out the most efficient route to hit each section once and only once – or twice in the areas where it is double-tracked for classic.  My math background liked thinking about that optimization problem.

I was pleased and impressed that the trails were being groomed again so soon, and decided to investigate Duluth’s trail grooming.  Who is behind this task, and how do they get it all done?  I learned that it was no accident that we were seeing increased activity on trail maintenance.  The City of Duluth has a team of people for grooming, and for the first time in years they now employ three people for the task.  In addition, they have added two new pieces of equipment – a snowmobile and a Ginzu Groomer owned by the Duluth XC Ski Club (DXC).  The result is that they can send out two separate teams of groomers to tend two locations at once.  The new equipment also enables them to maintain ski trails when there is no new snowfall by regrooming the existing base of snow.

The future looks even brighter, thanks to the Park Fund that was approved by Duluth’s voters in 2011.  The city plans to purchase another Piston-Bully and another track-setter in two years.  Those are our tax dollars at work – I heartily approve.

Let’s hear it for our groomers!  And let’s hope the snowfall continues to keep them busy.

Skiing with two young bucks

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IMG_9517 trimmedI’m not even sure why I tucked my little camera into the pocket of my ski jacket before heading out to the trails early this morning.  I already took pictures there yesterday, and it was a cloudy and dreary morning.  But I’m glad I did!

We are fortunate to live right across the street from some nice ski trails embedded in the woods. I was about 2/3 of the way around my first circuit when I spotted two deer standing on the trail a little ways in front of me.  That wasn’t so unusual, but I got my camera out anyway.  It was only then that I noticed their antlers.  And when they began to tangle with each other right in front of me, I knew I had something unique.  I enjoyed watching them sparring and playing in close proximity.

To be honest, the skiing wasn’t all that great this morning.  The snow was crusty and slick from yesterday’s warmup, and had lost the allure of soft new snow.  But it was worth being out there for the show.

Winter Returns

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Big fat snowflakes falling in the floodlights outside our windows
Snow perched on top of the big rock in the yard
Shoveling snow off the walk – an onerous task made joyful
Snowplow thundering past the house
The dog snuffling in fresh powder, snow clinging to her nose
Boots caked in snow, dragged into the house – and not caring
Ski trails right across the street, made usable again
Gliding through fresh powder on the trails, soft and silent
Trees sporting white coats
Deer tracks visible throughout the yard
Sled tracks criss-crossing the neighbor’s big hill
Sounds of children, playing outside
All is right with the world again
Welcome back winter!IMG_9508

Finding Real Winter

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My usual routine on our ski trips is to get up early and ski before breakfast.  I love being outdoors early and “earning” the big feast always served at a B&B.  But with the winds howling, snow covering the roads and temperatures dipping below zero, it seemed prudent to modify that plan!  The acres of woods surrounding the B&B presented the optimal alternative – snowshoeing.  Susan and I bundled up in our warmest clothes, strapped on our snowshoes and trundled off through the deep soft snow.  The conditions were perfect.  Untouched fluffy snow blanketed our path and clung to the tree branches all around us.  No IMG_9494matter that we lost the trail after while and meandered in a crooked route around bushes and over logs.  We were protected from the wind and enjoyed soaking up our surroundings.  Only our noses got cold, and by the time we returned to the warmth of the B&B, we were good and ready for that hearty breakfast.

By the time afternoon rolled around, the wind had moderated and temperatures rose to a balmy 4 degrees above zero.  For our final ski of the weekend, we headed back toward Bayfield and stopped at Mt. Ashwabay Ski Area.  Because it was so cold, we chose to ski separately so we could each chose our own pace and not have to linger in the cold waiting for each other.  I eagerly chose my skate skis while Susan stuck to classic skiing for this outing, but I soon regretted my decision.  Once again, the grooming reports were on the optimistic side.  We were told that the trails were all groomed, but we neglected to ask “when?”  It soon became apparent that the answer was “before the last snowfall.”  While the classic tracks were nicely packed by earlier skiers, the skate deck was marginally used and full of fresh cold (read slow) snow.  As Susan glided along the smooth tracks, I forced my skies through the deep snow, chagrined that I was barely keeping ahead of her.

IMG_9506I can’t really hold the conditions against the ski area.  After all, we’d been praying for new snow, and boy did we get it!  And they were doing their best with limited resources.  Putting that aside, the trails were very pretty and the scenery improved even more when the sun peeked out mid-afternoon.  It was the first we’d seen of the sun all weekend, and it was a welcome addition.  As we were once again skiing around a downhill ski area, it was no surprise to encounter hills – steep ones this time.  I labored up those hills, and had to skate down them to keep my momentum going.  At one point, I reached the top of the chairlift and had no choice but to snowplow down a ski hill to reach the next section of trail – an interesting twist to the route.  Nearing the end of the day, my mind must have been as numb as my body was tired when I read the sign that said “Chalet 12k.”  I knew I didn’t have it in me to go that much farther, much less beat the impending dark.  So it was with great relief that upon closer inspection I realized it actually read “Chalet 1.2k” – whew!  Enough skiing for one weekend.

Nordic Walking – on Skis

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I have to remind myself that skiing with a friend is not the same as training for the Birkie. The trails we ski are not the highly groomed, fast and populous areas where I put in mega kilometers and really push myself for technique and speed. And today was a prime example.

We chose the Porcupine Mountain Wilderness Area for today’s skiing. It’s perched on the edge of Lake Superior, and in the last few years they haven’t had good snow for cross-country skiing. Since the recent snowfall blanketed the Porcupines, we decided we should take the opportunity to try their trails.

It soon became clear that we were in a wilderness area, not a ski resort. The ski chalet reminded me of ski trips in my youth – rustic fireplaces and simple tables surrounded by families picnicking from coolers. Their definition of trail grooming was a bit loose. Yes, they were packed, but despite the designation as a classic ski trails, there were no classic tracks. We had a firm surface for skiing, but missed the solid tracks to keep our skis from slipping sideways.

Skiing through the woods, we saw side trails off to rustic cabins. We encountered one couple hiking through deep snow in the woods, searching in vain for their cabin, and hoping we could direct them. We’d passed it earlier on, and were happy to help. Further up the trail we saw a tent – sure enough, winter campers. We didn’t see many people out on the trails, but the footprints told us we were sharing the trail with hikers and shoeshoers.

We first headed out on the trail that parallels Lake Superior near the shore. It was quiet and pretty. The closer we got to the lake, the more moisture in the snow, which made it sticky. Add that to the other trail conditions, and this was going to be a slow ski.

The winds were forecast to increase all day long, and it was blustery near the lake. The thick snow on the trees was whipped through the air and it felt like skiing through bouts of blizzard. The best part of that trail was the short section where we could see the lake. It was already stirred up, and waves were crashing in on the rocks.

The more extensive trails wind around and behind the ski hill. We assumed that meant steep inclines, but were pleasantly surprised to find the trails were nicely undulating. They wove through the woods and the snow coverage was deeper there than near the lake. It was beautiful skiing.

The afternoon slipped by quickly, but the kilometers did not. Forward movement was earnestly earned by the effort required to overcome the stickiness of the snow. It felt more like walking at times. Nordic Walking with poles. But on skis. It was not Birkie training. But it was definitely an endurance workout. In beautiful surroundings.

Lake Superior Delivers

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The weather gods were certainly shining on us. We awoke this morning to a classic lake effect snowfall that blanketed Duluth, Wisconsin and the UP of Michigan – just what we asked for! We traipsed through several inches of new snow as we loaded the car, and left in the midst of big flakes plummeting down at a rapid pace. Real winter at last, and great start to our XC trip.

While the fresh snow erased the barren brown ground and covered the icy remnants of old snow crust, it also meant snowy slippery roads for our travels from Duluth to Ironwood. It felt like relearning winter driving again, especially as the snow plows appeared to be waiting for the snow to stop falling before clearing the roads. Lanes were impossible to see, snow billowed all around us each time a car passed by, and I had a sneaky suspicion it was slippery under all that white stuff. But we forged on, safely thankfully.

We made our requisite stop at a charming coffee shop en route, where we planned our day’s skiing over coffee and fresh muffins. The proprietor was an enthusiastic foodie, which delighted Susan no end, and on her lead we detoured to the local coop and bakery for hearty breads and baked goods. They would make a good supplement to our evening meal in front of the fire at the B&B, we reasoned.

We chose the ABR trails in Ironwood for our day’s ski, figuring they were most likely to be freshly groomed and had plenty of kilometers for us to explore. Groomed they were, but not everywhere. Skate skiers seemed to take precedence, with the classic-only trails yet to be addressed. But we decided that was a benefit, not a hindrance. Some classic trails were skier-tracked, which worked well yet still retained a feeling of remoteness. Classic-only also have the advantage of being narrower, closely lined by trees – our favorite type of trail.

Further out, we found trails that were still untouched. We could see the faint outline of the tracks set before the new snowfall, but they were otherwise blanketed in pristine new snow. It was too good to pass up! We broke trail and skied through the silent woods for several hours on those trails. No matter that it was slow going – this wasn’t about speed, it was about experience, and it was perfect. Even with 3-4″ fresh powder, there was still enough glide to make it easy going and enjoyable.

As each new section of trail beckoned to us, we ventured farther and farther out on the trail system. By the time we neared the trailhead, sunset was long behind us and the light was growing dim. The full parking lot was dotted by only a few remaining cars, and we were tired. But it was a good tired.

Thank you, Lake Superior, for another wonderful day of skiing.