Root River Trail Surprises

Posted on May 22, 2013 by Molly

Day 5 - Calidonia to Chatfield 66 miles

On our way into Caledonia yesterday, we noticed a number of barns with colorful patchwork quilt patterns on them. They were bright and attractive, but we didn't know why they were there. Reading up on the local sights, I discovered that they were “barn quilts.” It all began with one family who originally started it as a barn improvement project. The idea caught on, and over 60 barns now pay homage to the quilting heritage of the area, painted by local artists. For the start of this morning's ride, I enjoyed watching it for more of them.

The countryside changed from the previous day as well. Trees seemed to dominate the terrain, with farms carved into niches among the woods. That was quite different from the wide open fields we'd seen earlier in our travels. To us it presented a very pastoral scene.

As far as cycling goes, I'd have to say this was our easiest day yet. It wasn't the shortest, but we did most of it on a bike trail sheltered from the wind, with only gradual elevation changes, and cool temperatures. It doesn't get much better than that. But we still had our challenges.

The plan was to follow the Root River bike trail for most of today's mileage. So imagine our disappointment at learning that over half of the trail was closed due to flooding. We even stopped in at the trail center in Houston to ask about it. While they thought the water may have receded, it was likely the trail was still muddy and slippery. So we did the prudent thing, and took the road instead.

Once through Rushford, the wide shoulders disappeared from the road were were traveling and we were about to encounter bridge construction. Seeing the bike trail paralleling the road, it was easy to fall prey to the temptation to follow it… so we did. We were quite pleased to find it in good shape, and it was very pleasant to cycle down a tree lined trail with no traffic. We were feeling quite smug as we neared Whalen, thinking we had it made. Wrong! Suddenly we were mired in mud, left behind by the receding river. Not only had it buried the trail, but the adjoining dirt road was also reduced to muck. Forging onward as best we could, our bikes and shoes were magnets for the wet brown stuff. It took a garden hose and a good dousing before we could continue. Still, I'd have to say it was worth it!

The remainder of the trail was officially open, which by then was a relief. We enjoyed the flowering trees, wildflowers and birds that were in abundance. One portion of the trail was lined with high granite walls. Numerous bridges had just been reconstructed. And all along the way the swollen Root River flowed rapidly. The farm fields lining the trail were largely still submerged in water, far from being ready to plant.

Molly among flowering trees on the trail

A light drizzle fell for much of the afternoon – the first rain we've had while cycling this trip. But it was so light as to be insignificant. We arrived in Chatfield slightly wet and ready for shelter. I hadn't paid attention to the details of our accommodations for the evening, and assumed we were staying in a motel. The neighborhood just didn't look right, though – no wonder, Rich had booked us into another B&B! Unlike the mud, that was a very welcome surprise.

Cycling and Executive Decisions

Posted on May 21, 2013 by Molly

Day 4 - Prairie du Chien to Caledonia 62 miles

By all rights, you should not be reading this post. We are supposed to be in a tent, sans Internet. But we caved. Instead, we are in a modest but well-equipped Mom and Pop motel room. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

Today we crossed the Mississippi River and headed back North. It started out really well. We were on a much smaller road with little traffic. We were at river level, meaning it was nice and flat. And the wind was finally behind us for a change. The first thing that I noticed was that in Iowa, they managed to squeeze houses, shacks and mobile homes between the railroad tracks and the river. Some of them were wisely built on stilts. I'd just never seen an elevated mobile home before! But it was justified – the river has just come down from flooding its banks, and trees were still marooned in the middle of the river.

Trailers alongside the Mississippi River

Early on we stopped at a National Monument to see some effigy mounds. There we met friendly volunteers, one of whom clued us in to the long, steep hill we were about to climb. We were grateful for the forewarning, as the 3-mile hill lived up to his predictions. What we didn't know was that it was only the first of four such brutal ascents we would face today! Every time we left the edge of the river, it meant a stiff hill to mount the bluffs. As long as we were in river country, that meant a steep downhill back to river level. Rich loved plummeting down at great speed, but to me (who hates speeding down) it was just unravelling all the hard work we'd just done. Our final hill took us inland for our detour into southeastern Minnesota. That time it felt rewarding to stay “up top” for the remainder of the day's ride.

Looking back down the hill doesn't do it justice!

We were definitely in the heart of farmland, first in Iowa and then Minnesota. Pretty farm buildings, tilled fields, curious cows and a few horses were the primary features of the landscape. We even set one herd of cows off in a running pack as we passed. Given the quiet country roads, it was a very peaceful ride.

We managed to spend some extra quality time among the farms while Rich repaired a flat tire on the rear of his bike. It was our first repair job of the trip, and happened as we were closing in on the last major town for the day. While it was a straightforward repair, it did set us behind and Rich in particular was already rather fried from the hill work. (Is this where I mention that considering his 57 years of age and the added burden of carrying camping equipment that he decided it was A-OK to walk up the steepest hills? He said I could… To be fair, then I need also include the fact that I would have been hopeless at replacing that inner tube. So I guess we're even.)

It was at that point when Rich announced he was making an executive decision. We would seek out a modest motel instead of camping tonight. After all, he reasoned, it was our anniversary. Who was I to argue? I did feel a quick pang of regret that we'd given in so easily, but it was easily squelched.

And so it was that we enjoyed a nice dinner and a bottle of wine to celebrate the occasion this evening. It also gave me the opportunity to drag Rich to the Dairy Queen to consume ice cream cones, just like we did on our wedding day 30 years ago. We have plenty of nights to spend in a tent. I enjoyed the outcome of this executive's decision.

Anticipation!

Posted on May 21, 2013 by Molly

Today my husband and I celebrate our 30th Wedding Anniversary. To celebrate, we have treated ourselves to a B&B while on our Upper Mississippi River Cycling Tour, otherwise known as our 30th Anniversary Tour. In addition to looking forward to many more happy years on this “ride through life,” we anticipate many good things today:

Breakfast! Normally, a staple of our cycling trips has been to stop for a hearty breakfast after logging about 20 miles, but that hasn't panned out just yet. We can't miss today, it's right downstairs. I can almost smell the coffee brewing!
Flying with the wind. After battling fierce headwinds all the way down the river, we can't wait to turn North this morning and enjoy a tailwind. We should have a speedy ride today! It won't last, as we can already see a change to NW winds in the forecast, but we'll take it as an anniversary present today.
A bit of cooler weather. I love the sun and warm weather, but even I will appreciate temperatures below the 80s today. And my sun-ravaged arms and legs will be thankful for the clouds.
Camping. Yes, our anniversary night will be spent in a tiny tent it in a park somewhere. Dinner will likely be a picnic – whatever we can squeeze in with the rest of the gear on our bikes before leaving the nearest town. Marriage is an adventure, right?

For 30 years it's been a great ride. I anticipate many more together!

Rich and Molly (Note the wedding picture in the corner!)

Clinging to the Mississippi River

Posted on May 20, 2013 by Molly

Day 2 - La Crosse to Prairie du Chien 60 miles

Day 3 – La Crosse to Prairie du Chien 60 miles

Today we hugged the Mississippi River all day long. In contrast to the previous two days when the Great River Road frequently swung away from the river, this portion faithfully remained in sight of the river. The bluffs backed away from the river, allowing room for farmland, homes and vacation rentals opposite the river. Towns were small, infrequent and sported few businesses (you guessed it – a dearth of restaurants!). That left the river and it’s surroundings as the main attraction. On a beautiful sunny day, that was ample for us.

With the heat and the recurrence of strong gusty headwinds, we were happy to take frequent breaks to enjoy the view. A fish hatchery made for a peaceful respite, with its majestic Silver Maple trees. We took a short detour into Blackhawk Park, where the Mississippi backwaters resembled a lake. We appreciated the humor of a farm that wished it was in Norway, proudly dubbed Uf-da Acres. And of course, we stopped for ice cream mid-afternoon at a river-side kiosk with a very friendly owner.

The other constant I should mention has been the presence of trains. The track lies between the road and the river, and the interval between trains is short. While I wouldn’t want freight trains thundering through my back yard, we have rather enjoyed them as a novelty.

I also have to admit that there is one aspect of this route that I have not enjoyed – the traffic. The Great River Road follows highway 35 through Wisconsin, and there is no doubt that it is well travelled. The traffic is not constant, and for the most part the shoulders are wide and smooth. But when semis come rushing past, my heart races and I grip my handlebars tightly, not wanting to be sucked into their slipstream. It’s a natural hazard of road cycling, but one I could do without.

It’s enough to close with this photo, which epitomizes today’s ride. It says it better than I can in words.

Cycling into Hefty Headwinds

Posted on May 20, 2013 by Molly

Day 2 - Wabasha to La Crosse 72 miles

We said that this trip was to be a test for the longer cycling tour we are doing later this summer. We're trying out carrying the gear and clothes we think we will need for two months. So far so good on that account. Today it was the weather that tested us. After waiting out yet another thunderstorm before setting off this morning, we finally hit the road and ran smack dab into 25 mph headwinds! Since we were cycling through largely open countryside, there was no where to hide from the winds. All we could do was put our heads down, shift down to embarrassingly low gears and pedal like mad.

The only thing worse than cycling into the wind was doing it on an empty stomach. Early on we passing up a breakfast cafe that offered views of a lock and dam but had a waiting line. We should have known better… The following towns had nothing to offer, and our reserves began to run low. I found myself pressing into the wind, counting down the miles to the next town, harboring hopes for a cafe and missing the scenery.

When we reached Fountain City we found a wonderful Irish pub with a delightful upstairs patio. Settling down at a shady table for lunch, we soon learned that we were to be well rewarded for the wait. The food was incredibly fresh and well prepared, including the proprietor's grandmother's recipe for potato soup. And boy did it taste good. After that stop, our outlooks improved significantly, the scenery became visible again, and we even tolerated the wind better.

Despite the fact that today's ride was largely over flat terrain, the wind took a huge toll on our forward momentum. The hours passed by and our destination continued to loom far in the distance. The day turned from cloudy to sunny once again, and heated up into the high 80s. But good fortune arrived in the form of a bike trail. After a grueling 50 miles on the road, we headed onto the Great River State Trail. Not only did it shelter us from the wind, but the shade brought welcome relief from the heat. A great combination!

The early section of the trail passed through a National Wildlife Preserve. There we were in the backwaters of the Mississippi, surrounded by wetlands and with tree branches meeting overhead. Birds were in great abundance and the scenery was just beautiful. That gave way to dryer land but continued to protect us all the way to the north edge of La Crosse. What a godsend that was to our weary bodies!

Bolstered by a stop at a handy Dairy Queen for cones, we made our way across the city – once again counting down the final miles. Nothing ever looked so good as the site of our humble motel for the night. Even better, there was a great vintage restaurant right across the street. We couldn't have asked for more!

I think we passed today's windy test. Regardless, we're not interested in a re-take.

Cycling – From Thunder to Brits!

Posted on May 18, 2013 by Molly

Day 1 - Prescott to Wabasha 56 miles

We woke up to the sound rain falling. Thunder boomed and lightning flashed while we packed up the car. We drove to our starting point in a torrential downpour. It was an ominous way to start our week-long cycling trip. But as we neared Prescott, Wisconsin the weather gods smiled down on us, we drove out from under the clouds, and were able to set off without delay. Whew!

Following the Great River Road in Wisconsin, we had beautiful pastoral scenery and ample views of the river. Since leaves have not yet come out in Duluth yet, it was a delight to pass through countryside painted with that bright spring green. Seeing brilliant tulips and daffodils blooming added to our pleasure. It was definitely a day of cycling up and down rolling hills as we travelled through bluff country alongside the Mississippi.

We hadn't gone far when we came upon a number of other cyclists. Only these folks were decked out in classic English garb, and riding all manner of old bicycles. We had stumbled upon the Pepin 3-Speed Tour – a 2-day bike ride fashioned after cycle touring in pre-war England, strictly riding English 3-speed bikes. We happened to share the same route for the day, so we had ample opportunity to stop and chat with many of the 118 adventuresome folks on the tour. Not only were they passionate about their bikes, but they were up for good old fun. Many bicycles sported wicker baskets and the occasional baguette. Tin cups hung from leather trimmed bags, and we spotted a flask or two making the rounds. And I overheard some sore cyclists applying “sticking plasters” to their blisters. It was clearly a highlight of our day!

By mid-day, the weather had improved significantly and we basked in the sunshine on an outdoor patio while eating lunch. By the end of the day, we both sported sunburns. It was the first summery day of the year, and it sure felt good!

Our destination was Wabasha MN where we had our first stay in a Warm Showers home. We were told we'd know the place by the teepee in the yard, but that in no way prepared us for the gorgeous home right on the river with a pool and enormous deck next to the water. What a treat! We are accompanied by at least 5 other cyclists on various trips, some on 3-speeds, others on rides longer than ours. Trading cycling stories was a must before all bedding down for the night.

Day 1 of the Upper Mississippi River Cycling Tour – we're off to a great start!

Pre-Cycling Trip Jitters

Posted on May 16, 2013 by Molly

It’s always the unknown that gets to me. This is now my second long distance cycling trip, so I’m feeling a lot more comfortable than the last time around. I know what to expect in terms of cycling day after day. I am looking forward to experiencing the countryside close-up and meeting interesting people along the way. And I’m even ready to enjoy Rich’s deviations from the path to see something wacky. Basically I’m ready for our Upper Mississippi River Cycling Tour.

The uncertainty that looms over me is the weather. Spring is a fickle season. And this spring is crazy! With the long lasting winter, I’ve been revisiting the cycling clothes I’ll need, planning to squeeze in an extra layer for warmth. But today, now that we’re just 2 days out from our start, I can look at the advanced forecasts. And lo and behold, I see 80s! Really? With lows in the 50s, maybe I won’t need the extra clothes after all. Maybe I should trade them for one sleeveless shirt. What a quandary!

And then there’s the rain. Last trip we had so little, it never mattered. This time I sense we are guaranteed to get wet. Nearly every day has some chance of rain and thunderstorms. We have invested in good cycling rain jackets, so that’s a start. And I insisted on fully waterproof bags for our sleeping bags. I’m not arriving at a campground to sleep in a wet bag. For the rest, heavy duty freezer ziplock bags will have to do the trick. It makes me wonder, why didn’t we get waterproof panniers?

I’ve cycled through rain, but only on relatively short day-rides. On a cycling trip, the necessity to get from point A to point B in a day rules out a bit of flexibility. But our distances are reasonable enough that we could probably wait out the worst of it, if necessary.

I’m sure we’ll be able to deal with whatever Mother Nature throws our way. And it’s always the adverse conditions that leave the most lasting memories, right? Not that I’m wishing bad weather on us. Just trying to put a positive spin on it. To soothe my jitters.

Test Cycling “Fully Loaded”

Posted on May 7, 2013 by Molly

Today we tested cycling with all the gear we will bring on our upcoming Upper Mississippi River Cycling Tour, including camping gear. We’re pretty good at packing light for a long distance trip, but adding tent, sleeping bags and sleep mats was new. So we thought we ought to figure out just how we were going to carry it all on our bikes, and find out what it will be like cycling with it.

We each took one sleeping bag, and divvied up the rest – the tent to Rich, and the sleep mats for me. Strapping them down over Rich’s panniers was not too difficult. At 6’2″ his seat is so high it easily cleared all the paraphernalia with room to spare. For me, at 5’1″ the trick was to leave room to sit on my bicycle seat without being impeded by gear. But we ultimately prevailed.

Walking the bikes or getting them to stand up on their own was a challenge. They were awkward and heavy, and very tippy. But once we started cycling, we moved along easily, barely noticing the extra weight once we were rolling. Hooray! I admit we picked an easy route for the test. We rode up the North Shore to Stony Point and back. With little traffic, flat terrain, no wind and nice big shoulders, we had few worries. Add beautiful sunshine and a sparkly flat blue lake, and it was easy to forget we were toting all that equipment.

And there were other distractions. Apparently, the Kamloops rainbow trout were running. Approaching French River, we could see an army of fishermen lined up across the mouth of the river. The photo opp was too good to pass up, and worth the added effort of getting our bikes balanced.

We unanimously declared that we passed the test. Tomorrow I intend to take it to the next level, and load up for a longer and hillier route. Here’s hoping I can make the grade.

Upper Mississippi River Cycling Tour Plans

Posted on May 6, 2013 by Molly

It’s under two weeks now until our next cycling trip, and our training continues to stagnate. If skiing counts, we’re in good shape. We just may not quite be ready for eight days in the saddle. But the preparations continue, regardless.

Rich is our master planner. He avidly reads cycling journals on Crazy Guy on a Bike, the premier website for bicycle tourists and their journals. That’s probably his best source of trip ideas (and their viability). He researches the roads, taking Google Maps down to street view to check on road conditions and make sure they are not dirt roads. He calculates mileages, and researches lodging options. And he makes the necessary reservations. It’s like having my own personal cycling travel agent! Here’s a map of the route he’s planned for this trip.

We’re trying a few new things on this trip. First, Rich found a great organization called Warm Showers, a world-wide community for touring cyclists and hosts. It is built on the premise of reciprocal hospitality. By signing up, we agree to host cyclists traveling through Duluth, and in return we can request lodging with other members in cities on our cycling routes. It seemed like a win-win situation – not only would it save us money on lodging, but we would meet interesting people who share a common interest in long distance cycling. We are eager to try it, and already have two Warm Showers homes set up for this trip. We are also looking forward to hosting our own guests.

Second, we will be doing some camping. We have a 2,000 mile, 2-month trip planned in the Maritime provinces of Canada later in the summer, and know that some nights a tent will be our only option for lodging. So this is our test run with camping gear. On last year’s Trans-Superior Cycling Tour, we had the luxury of staying in a motel each night. So lugging extra gear and sleeping on the ground between cycling days will be novel. We plan to carry minimal equipment – 1 lightweight tent, 2 small sleeping bags and 2 short sleep mats. That’s it. It’s lodging only, not cooking. We plan to test packing our panniers this week to see how it all fits. We’ve added handlebar bags too this year. I can already see this is going to be a bulkier trip. And if spring doesn’t arrive soon, we’re going to need more layers of clothes as well. I think a few fully-loaded test rides will be necessary.

This year I’ve added cycling shoes and pedals to my gear. After a year with “mousetraps” I was ready for the real thing, and Santa delivered. I’ve been practicing with them the last few months and had my first requisite klutzy fall when I didn’t unclip fast enough. But I’m already sold on them.

Plans in place. Gear purchased. Reservations made. Training in progress. Bring on the Tour!

Upper Mississippi River Cycing Tour – one month countdown

Posted on April 18, 2013 by Molly

It didn’t seem like a stretch at all. Planning a cycling tour for mid-May left plenty of time for training beforehand. Or so we thought. After all, by this time last year I had already logged over 500 miles on my bike, and I was a novice to boot. But we didn’t figure in the fickle behavior of Mother Nature. Last year was an incredibly early spring. This year is the winter that won’t quit. Indeed, as I write, snow is steadily falling outside and is likely to accumulate enough to make this the snowiest April in Duluth. Ever.

It’s not like we can delay the trip. The timing of this Tour was very deliberate. It was intended to commemorate our 30th wedding anniversary. Most people might plan a romantic getaway for the occasion. But we’ve never exactly been mainstream… we’ll be spending the night of our anniversary in a tent! We will have other nights to spend in comparative splendor, as we sprinkled in a few modest motels along the route. And we have a proper celebration awaiting us at the finish. Our tour ends at the home of our daughter and son-in-law, who will be hosting a family BBQ in honor of our anniversary upon our arrival.

There is little chance that the purpose of our trip will escape any casual observers who happen to see us cycling by. Rich takes great pride in designing eye-catching custom jerseys for our trips. The shirts speak for themselves.

So exactly one month from today we will push off and start cycling. We may be training en route, if this winter keeps up. But I’m not worried. With a winter of steady cross-country skiing to keep us fit and our previous Trans-Superior Cycling Tour under our belts for experience, I’m confident that we will manage just fine. After all, we’ve weathered 30 years together. What’s another week on bicycles?

Superior Footprints

Life and the Outdoors in the Northland

Tag Archives: Cycling Trip

Root River Trail Surprises

Cycling and Executive Decisions

Anticipation!

Clinging to the Mississippi River

Cycling into Hefty Headwinds

Cycling – From Thunder to Brits!

Pre-Cycling Trip Jitters

Test Cycling “Fully Loaded”

Upper Mississippi River Cycling Tour Plans

Upper Mississippi River Cycing Tour – one month countdown

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