Tag Archives: Lake Superior

The indecisive ore boat?

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It was bitterly cold.  The wind was so fierce that I had to stop and blow warm air into my mittens cupped over my face to revitalize my nose every few miles.  But still I persisted.  Very little keeps me from my morning run.

Tadoussac 2

The CSL Tadoussac – photo by Steve Geronazzo, courtesy of Shipfinder.co

My destination was Lief Erickson Park via the Lakewalk.  Passing under London Road next to the railroad tracks, I reached the lake shore for the first time.  As always, when I see a boat out in the lake, my heart does a little flip and I am grateful for living next to the wonderful body of water we call Lake Superior.  Seeing an old style ore boat is even better, connecting me back to the days when all boats had such graceful lines and majesty.  So seeing the CSL Tadoussac heading out into the lake was distraction enough to help me forget the wind and cold.  I had something much more appealing to focus on.

But then things got really interesting.  The boat began to turn toward shore.  Running to the next open view point, I stopped to watch.  Before long it had done a complete 180 and was heading back to port.  Why would a boat come out of the harbor only to change its mind and return a short distance later?  It didn’t appear to be having any trouble as it steamed back toward the bridge.  Continuing on my run, I followed its progress, and sure enough before long the bridge lifted for the incoming boat.  I didn’t actually see the boat go under the bridge, as by then I had turned around myself.   But I did hear the boat and bridge salute each other as it slipped under the raised bridge deck.

The whole episode might have remained a mystery to me, but this is where it helps to be connected.  As soon as I contacted Konnie at Lake Superior Magazine, she was on the case.  She in turn went to her shipping experts who not only solved the puzzle, but provided a visual explanation.

Tadoussac route

The CSL Tadoussac’s route, from Shipfinder.co, and my route – I’m the red X watching the boat turn

Shipfinder.co tracks ship movements worldwide, and by zeroing in on the port of Duluth, it is possible to view the exact movements of any recent vessel.  As soon as the Tadoussac’s route displayed, the answer became clear.  She hadn’t come out from the harbor at all – that was just my own mistaken assumption.  Instead, she had been anchored outside the harbor awaiting her turn at a dock.  When her turn came, she must have needed more room to maneuver to get a good point for entering the narrow ship canal, so headed down the lake before doing her U-turn and pointing toward the bridge.

I really should have thought of that.  After all, I just wrote a story for Lake Superior Magazine about boats using the “free parking” outside the harbor!  But logic doesn’t always flow through the cold brain of a runner.  It seemed far more exciting to consider the dire consequences of the ore boat that appeared to change its mind.  And yet, I’m glad there was a simple explanation.  We both had a good run this morning, me and the Tadoussac.

It’s here to stay

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Winter.  Snow.  I can’t see it going anywhere soon.  While we have had early snowfalls in the past, I don’t remember anything that feels so permanent.

It’s a bit of a shock to the system.  One day I’m out puttering in the garden, reaping seeds from some of our perennials and scattering them in bare spots in the hope of generating new blooms.  The next day the plants are all covered in snow.  I’ve had to dig into the storage boxes that contain my out of season clothes.  Now where were those heavy wool sweaters?  Time to exchange them for the sleeveless tops and flimsy running clothes in my drawers.  It’s taking a while for my body to adjust to these frigid temperatures.  Single digits bring a penetrating chill.

Snowy running trailI know I should be out on the ski trails. Rich claims that they are amazingly good.  I did give them a whirl one day.  But I can’t quite give up running yet.  It’s been a challenge, dodging the crusty snow left behind when they plowed the Lakewalk, but each day it gets better.  And I have a great excuse for running a slow pace.

The biggest bonus was having the sun come out the last two days.  What a transformation, from dark and dreary to sparkling contrasts of white and blue.  I was inspired to run all the way down to Canal Park and back just to spend more time alongside the deep blue lake.  How I wished I could capture it with more than just my eyes.

Brighton Beach with snowThis morning, I discovered that my tiny camera would fit snugly into the key pocket of my winter tights.  There was no chance it would bounce around there, which drives me crazy.  So I was in business.  I didn’t repeat my visit to Canal Park, but made a swing through Brighton Beach instead.  There I found the same blue/white combination I find so Lester River icing upappealing.

I was amazed to see just how much freezing is going on already.  Lester River was filling in with ice, creating a wiggly pattern through its snowy banks as it made its way down to Lake Superior.  If this keeps up, soon it will disappear below its icy surface.

Even if fall does briefly reappear, it won’t feel real.  By now we all know where this is headed.  Winter is here to stay.

Savoring the home life

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It’s good to be missed.  After almost-daily posts from our cycling trip, my output has definitely dwindled.  To be more accurate, it’s come to a complete halt.  And it was noticed.  Granted, it was my siblings who commented on my literary absence, but it felt good nevertheless.  It’s good to know I have readers who enjoy my posts.

Between resettling at home and catching up on my volunteer duties, I’ve been at a loss for inspiration.  Compared to pedaling through an ever-changing array of new sights and adventures every day, life at home is quiet. Or is it?  Taking stock of the three weeks we’ve been home, I realize that I’ve journeyed through a litany of emotions and personal experiences that rival many of my traveling highlights.

Molly-Beryl-Bill trimmedEnduring friendships – Sharing in a private dinner party for a dear friend to celebrate her 75th birthday.  Spending the night in her North Shore home, waking to the sunrise over Lake Superior and lingering over a delicious breakfast prepared by her husband.  Delightful.

Truly moving moments – Losing a close friend to cancer.  Attending her Celebration of Life service, hugging mutual friends and witnessing the multitude of people whose lives she touched.  Such an outpouring of love.

photo-2Family celebration – Getting the phone call with the joyful news.  Hearing the happiness in our son’s voice as he announces his engagement.  Feeling his new love and excitement.  What a thrill.

Nature’s beauty – Running in the dark of the morning, as the days get progressively shorter.  Watching the sun pop over the horizon to shine across the water and spread its colors into the clouds above.  Every day different.  Each one gorgeous.

Little hugIMG_0080 trimmeds – Filling the house with kids and grandkids for the weekend.  Swishing through the leaves on the nature trail.  Playing Pooh Sticks on the bridge.  Seeing the world through their eyes.  Never a dull moment.  Tiring, but oh so worth it.

Cabin time – Nestling in front of a crackling fire on a chilly evening.  Listening to the radio to play Green Cheese.  Preparing the cabin for the winter season.  Calm and quiet in the off-season.

No, travel is not essential to finding inspiration.  I need only open my eyes to what is around me.  And it’s good to be home.

Thanks for Waiting

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Fall colors.  We were sure we had missed them. With our cycling trip extending well into the second week of October, it seemed unlikely that we’d see the North Shore in all its splendor.  But we were wrong.

For the final two miles of our trip home, Rich turned down Seven Bridges Road.  There we could see that Lake Superior had sheltered at least some parts of the Northland.  Winding back and forth across Amity Creek on the narrow road, the trees were cloaked in color.  Even with the red maples having finished, the yellows and golds were a brilliant contrast against the pure blue sky.  A true welcome home present.

IMG_5846As soon as we schlepped our gear into the house, I headed right back out again – on my bike, of course, heading straight up the Shore.  Admittedly, the leaves were past prime, but they were still the core element of that quintessential fall day.  To complete the experience, it was cool and crisp with a bit of nip in the air.  The lake reflected the deep blue of the sky.

IMG_5856Cruising alongside Lake Superior was a cyclist’s paradise.  Wide shoulders, mostly smooth pavement, minimal traffic and little wind.  Exactly the conditions we hoped for each day of our cycling trip.  Add to that stunning coastal views, and there is little left to improve on the experience.  Indeed, we live in a beautiful area, with all this right on our doorstep.

I’d have to say, that the scenery IMG_5834rivaled that which we just spent a month inspecting from our bikes.  It was still worth traveling across the country to cycle through new territory.  But it also brings home the knowledge that we have it good, right here.

Thanks, fall, for waiting for us.

Sharing the North Shore

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NShore Day 5

Day 5 – Beaver Bay to Duluth MN, 52 miles

It seemed most appropriate that we spent this final day of the Minnesota North Shore Tour with Bike Tour Vacations following the tour’s namesake.  It’s a stretch I’ve done many times, and is very familiar.  But cycling with a group who had never been on the North Shore before gave it a whole new twist.  It was fun to re-experience the sights and lake views through the eyes of those seeing it for the first time.

Starting in Beaver Bay was a treat as we had immediate access to the longest completed section of Gitchi-Gami State Trail, a wonderful bike trail on the North Shore.  It afforded us hassle-free cycling away from the highway.  In addition, it was lined with wildflowers blossoming in brilliant colors.  It was interesting to note the difference in season compared to inland from the lake.  Berries were just beginning to ripen, and we still found fireweed and a few remaining lupine due to the cooler climate.

Photo Aug 01, 6 54 02 PMIt’s also worth nothing that our numbers swelled to 13 for this portion of the tour as we were joined by Jim’s sister, her husband and another couple.  They were a welcome addition to our lively group.IMG_5052

We had many stops today due to the numerous sights on that stretch of the North Shore.  First was Split Rock Lighthouse – a must-see for any tourist.  Personally, I enjoy being there before the park opens for tours to beat the crowds.

IMG_5055 IMG_5057 IMG_5058Next up was Gooseberry Falls.  I’ve taken so many photos of the iconic falls that I felt compelled to try a different view.  This is how it looked from the bike path below the highway bridge.

IMG_5083Everyone was required to stop at Silver Cliffs, to take in the view and imagine the original highway that clung to the cliffs on this stretch of the North Shore.  I never realized before reading the signs that it has the longest views on the Minnesota portion of the North Shore.

IMG_5087IMG_5089 All day long we leapfrogged each other, collected at sights and exclaimed over the beautiful weather.  Our final stopping point was for refreshment at the Mocha Moose on Scenic 61.  Then we pushed on to the end, finishing up on the Duluth Lakewalk.  It was a glorious end to our 5-day tour.  And I was ever so pleased that the other guests found the North Shore to be as special as I do.  Sharing with them was a fitting finish to the trip.

The Ultimate Downhill

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Day 4 – Ely to Beaver Bay MN, 71 miles

By definition, today’s route was one big downhill run. Starting in Ely and ending up at Lake Superior means dropping over 800 feet in elevation over 62 miles. What more could a cyclist ask for? Well, good weather, a tailwind, and beautiful scenery for starters. And we got all those too!

But I have to be honest. It wasn’t all downhill. In fact, getting out of Ely involved numerous uphill climbs and plenty of rolling hills. It wasn’t until we reached the continental divide, about 42 miles into our trip, that the road finally attained an overall downward tilt. And even then, there were undulations. But by then my momentum went a long way in carrying me up those hills, which just felt like little blips. For the most part, we whizzed down at great speed. Yes, those final 20 miles to the lake were quite the trip.

Our reward at the foot of the hill was a picnic lunch at the newly completed Tettagouche State Park Visitor Center. The new building certainly makes a statement, with its native rock and log exterior and it’s vast size. We set up shop in a nearby pavilion, where Lake Superior’s cooling breezes were in evidence. It was a delightful spot, and fun to explore the new building after watching it in the building process for the last two years.

It was nice to know we had just eight more miles to reach Beaver Bay, rounding out our longest day at 70 miles. Rich and I took the opportunity to visit Palisade Head on the way, despite the incredibly steep road to reach it. There was a bit of haze in the air but the view was still stunning. And Rich was thrilled to find that the local nesting Peregrine Falcons were active and in view. So of course a photo session ensued.

Today’s top sights, apart from the beautiful scenery, evolved into a common category – tall wood carvings. The first was a chainsaw statue in Finland. It is a unique rendering of St. Urho, a legendary and entirely fictional Finnish saint, which apparently has become part of Minnesota lore. The second was a signpost for our motel, Camp 61, complete with lumberjack, eagles, fish and a raven.

I also enjoyed this peaceful scene, crossing the South Kiwishiwi River early in the morning with a bit of fog still hanging over the water.

We may now be at the low point on this cycling tour, but everyone agreed that getting here was quite a highlight.

 

A Superior Ride

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One of my favorite summer things is getting out early to enjoy the cool am temperatures and the beautiful first morning sunlight.  Since summer was so long in reaching Duluth this year, it’s only been within the last week that this idea was even worth considering.  But today was the perfect opportunity.

Soon after sunrise Rich and I loaded our bikes on the car and headed out to West Duluth.  Our destination: Superior, Wisconsin.  We parked on the Duluth end of the Bong Bridge, mounted our bikes and IMG_4923proceeded to cross over the bay on the bridge.  The bridge was wonderfully bicycle-friendly, with a dedicated bike lane that was well protected from traffic.  As luck would have it, we also had a scenic view of the St. Louis River basin on our side of the bridge.  With the rising sun behind us and calm waters in the bay, we had lovely views of the railway bridge and surrounding waterway.

We entered Superior in the Billings Park area of the city.  There we were immediately able to access the bay, first on city streets and then on a bike trail through the park that was literally within feet of the water’s edge.  With the water reflecting the morning’s scenery and fluffy clouds, it was an idyllic landscape.IMG_4927 IMG_4933 IMG_4935 Leaving the park, we entered a beautiful neighborhood full of impressive houses and steeply rolling hills.  Still within proximity of the water, it was easy to imagine the luxury of the homes with waterfront property.  It was early and quiet enough that we managed to get within photo distance of a gray fox just down the road.

IMG_4931 trimmedWe continued on into the Superior Municipal Forest and traveled part of the Millennium Trail.  There wildflowers grew in abundance as the trail wound through woodland areas and meadows.  It was a peaceful trail, and clearly a popular destination for runners and dog walkers out for their morning rounds.

It was a pleasure to return via the coastal trail and back over the bridge for a second opportunity to enjoy the views.  The sun was still low enough to provide its warm glow to the scenes.  And going the opposite direction provided a different perspective on everything.  This time the railway bridge was closed, and in fact a pair of locomotives crossed the bridge as we watched.IMG_4941 IMG_4942 IMG_4944I had no idea that such beauty lay right across the harbor, with such easy access by bicycle.  I just never thought to look at it from the other side before.  It was clearly a Superior ride.

Trying to Beat the Heat

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It’s not often that the temperatures in Duluth reach 90 degrees.  And after the three week string of 40-degree weather we had in June, hitting that mark seemed inconceivable.  But today was the day.  There was no mistaking it.

It was the kind of day where it was impossible to escape the heat.  With the humidity also close to the 90% mark, the hot sticky air seemed to envelope everything, particularly one’s body.  But there were plenty of people seeking all sorts of ways to try and cool off. Myself included.

My choice was to head up the shore on my bike.  Although the air was hot, it still felt better to be creating my own breeze.  There was little respite from Lake Superior, despite the fact that it remains chilly.  I had only occasional cool spells when there were no trees between me and the lake.  But I welcomed each and everyone of them.  Along the way I enjoyed people watching and surveying the variety of ways folks flocked to the water to relieve the summer heat.

Lake Superior was a natural.  Brighton Beach attracted its share of families, but they didn’t venture very far into the lake.  There’s cooling off, and then there’s frigid.  The lake was the latter.IMG_4906It’s not often one sees a jet-ski in Lake Superior, but the water was so calm today that it invited such activity.  I can’t say I’ve ever seen a double before!IMG_4901 Lester River had its share of swimmers, and the youngsters seemed to enjoy jumping off the rocks into the water.IMG_4908However that was nothing compared to the feats of the local teenage crowd.  Lower down the river, they demonstrated their fearlessness on a rope swing attached to the railroad bridge.  Others jumped straight from the rock cliff.IMG_4896 trimmedBut nothing beats The Deeps for daring do.  Right there in our own back yard, the water hole beneath the waterfall on Amity Creek is a magnet for teenagers, eager to show off by jumping from increasing heights above the pool.  I found it chilling enough just to watch.IMG_4915 trimmed There’s something for everyone here.  It just takes the rare day that we have to go to such lengths to beat the heat here in Duluth.

What Summer?

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This post was inevitable.  There is only so long I can be a good sport about the lack of warmth and sunshine on this side of Lake Superior before I too succumb to whining about it.  I think my outdoor thermometer is permanently stuck on 46 degrees.  That’s what it says every morning.  Without fail.  And we’re lucky if it climbs past the mid-50s during the day.  Sigh.  We love you, Lake Superior, but even now that the ice has melted your frigid waters continue to have an ice box effect on what used to be summer.

I may have to stop listening to Minnesota Public Radio.  The weather forecasts are just too depressing.  I begin to get hopeful when I hear the temperatures climbing into the 70s and 80s, only to have my hopes dashed when the inevitable “cooler by the lake” phrase creeps in.

Not only is Lake Superior thwarting our attempt at summer, it has disappeared.  The cold water continually spawns thick fog which blankets the lake and creeps into town, rendering Lake Superior invisible even when standing on the shore.  Our recent cyclist guests were convinced the lake was a myth – after all, they couldn’t see it.  Duluth was no more appealing to them than any other Midwestern town.

Our CabinFortunately, we have an escape.  Our cabin Up North.  Despite being closer to the Canadian border, the secret is that it is inland, 100 miles away from Lake Superior.  Far from the reaches of that cold, cold water.

When we lived in the Twin Cities, I always thought there was something backwards about going to a cabin where the weather was always cooler than home.  Spending time on the lake was wonderful, and it was the best retreat ever, but it was always on the chilly side.  Now that we have moved to Duluth, it appears that nature has righted itself.  A trip to the cabin now means summer and warm weather.  Thankfully.  I can’t wait to get there for our annual 4th of July week with the family – for many reasons, weather included.

IMG_0862We had a wonderful time there over Memorial Day.  It was hot and sunny, and we played with the grandkids in the water on the beach.  It really felt like summer, including the nights that were too warm to allow a good night’s sleep, even with fans.  The only blemish on that weekend were the plumbing problems we encountered.  Lest you think this is an unrelated side track, wait until you hear the cause.  Just yesterday, June 26, we hired a plumber to come out to fix the problem.  Which he did.  By thawing the ice that was plugging the pipes underground!

It’s no wonder I fear that summer is going to pass us by this year.