Tag Archives: Lake Superior

Tending the Light

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We knew that Crisp Point Lighthouse was remote yet charming, but nothing prepared us for the beautiful sight that greeted us upon our arrival. Not only was the tower in good repair – having been brought back from the brink of endangerment in 1997 – but it’s supporters have rebuilt it’s service building, constructed a visitor center and landscaped the area with boardwalks and plantings to protect the dunes. It’s truly a testament to a dedicated group of individuals in the Crisp Point Light Historical Society. Along with a thorough orientation by the volunteers who preceded us on site, we knew we were off to a good start for our 5-day stint as lighthouse hosts.
wpid-Photo-20140618171941.jpgWe have easily settled into our job of manning the visitor center. There we are surrounded by an impressive array of lighthouse souvenirs to sell, along with displays of historical items. It is easy to linger and read the various pieces of literature in our downtime, absorbing more lighthouse history. With plenty of slow periods, we can easily take turns minding the shop and wandering the grounds.Greeting visitors is the best part of our duties. At times the whole parking lot is full, and at others we have a slow flow of customers who dribble in one vehicle at a time. Some even come by dirt bike or ATV. But they are all unique and come for different reasons. For those new to the lighthouse, just surviving the road to reach it feels like an achievement, but invariably worth it. And there are those who have been coming for years. They have great stories to tell, having seen the place before it’s recent improvements. Or when they could walk the beach in front of the lighthouse – land which has since been reclaimed by Lake Superior. We even met a man who once spent hours in the cold October Lake Superior waters to help build barriers to protect the lighthouse – all done by hand. And then there are the avid lighthouse collectors, on a quest to visit as many lighthouses as possible. Finally, those who come for a different reason entirely – rock hunting on the beach. All have something to share, enriching our own experience while on duty.
Outside our lighthouse obligations our life is pretty simple here. We have a campsite in a tidy enclosure, surrounded by the sturdy boardwalks leading to the lighthouse, beach and viewing areas. It has everything we need – a grill, fire ring, picnic table and soft sand under our tent for comfortable sleeping.

The longer we are here, the easier it is to surrender to this existence. Our world is small, but the beaches and the horizon stretch forever. Our options are limited, but I have little need for much besides a good book to read. Our technology is rendered useless, but I don’t really miss it. In fact, it’s quite liberating not being a slave to the internet.We were lucky to see this beautiful rainbow!This place is a photographer’s dream. At this time of year we can see both sunrises and sunsets, with the lighthouse adding a dramatic setting. Even I tend to carry my camera around wherever I go. Somehow the lighthouse takes on a different appearance throughout the day, and we never tire of looking for new angles or shots to take. Theoretically we have pure dark for vivid stars and night skies, although the clouds have not obliged on that front. But a short cloudburst this evening delivered a stunning rainbow – an unexpected gift.

Being able to go up in the lighthouse tower is a treat, particularly in the off- hours. From there we can survey our surroundings, seeing it from a new vantage point. A perk of the job. And the visitor center has proven to be a godsend. Numerous times we have sought shelter there, whether it be from the wind, the rain or the ravenous mosquitoes. A haven for hassled campers.

Rich out on the catwalk at the top of the lighthouseYes, it’s a good gig we have here. Definitely worth repeating. We’ll be back again next year to tend the light.

Crisp Point’s Many Faces

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In the four days we've been at Crisp Point Lighthouse so far, this coastline of Lake Superior has served up a varied selection of weather. While tent camping here we are naturally tied to the elements, and all that Mother Nature brings our way. So far, she continues to entertain us with her many moods.

We arrived on a foggy, misty and brooding morning. The wind was howling, blowing off the lake and seemed to strip away every ounce of warmth I could muster. I spent that day shivering, piling on layers of clothes I'd packed for just such circumstances, including my winter jacket. But I did wonder how I'd survive five days huddled in those same layers.

Despite the conditions, the lighthouse grounds fascinated us. The tower stood tall against the elements, claiming its place as safeguard for the coast. Even when the skies cleared, the waves continued to crash furiously against the shore providing an angry display of power, and a constant sound that lulled us to sleep that night.

The wind abated on our second day, and left mosquitoes in swarming its wake. Not everything can be perfect here, and these pests let us know it. I'm usually fairly tolerant, but I've never seen such hungry hoards before. It was enough to drive me to wear a dorky hat smothered in bug spray or seek refuge in the visitors center. At night they swarmed between our inner screen tent and rain fly in noisy frustration at being unable to reach us for their next meal. Only then did we feel we had won the battle, temporarily.

Yesterday afternoon a storm appeared to be brewing. Fortunately, it didn't materialize but it did bring huge gusts of wind that persisted for the remainder of the day. Our tent blew over three times before we finally gave up and collapsed it, anchoring it with rocks. And our screen tent pulled up its stakes and blew right off Rich who was sitting in it at the time. Sleep was hard to come by that night as the tent pulsated in the wind, the sides alternately collapsing in toward us and flapping away. I'm sure it was only our bodies that anchored it to the ground.

Today, in contrast, it's hot and sunny. The light wind is out of the south and the lake calmly laps the beach. We can see out into the water, with it's varying colors. It's a perfect day for walking the beach, which seems to be a bigger attraction to our visitors than the lighthouse today. I'm happy to sit by the water's edge and read in between the slow flow of guests.

My favorite times of the day are morning and evening. We have the place to ourselves then, a powerful feeling of good fortune to be surrounded by this natural beauty. Mornings are magical. Emerging from the tent in time to catch the sunrise leaves hours to enjoy the golden colors of the low sun as the shoreline awakens. It's peaceful, quiet and different every day.

Sunset comes late here. And we've had some beauties. By the time the light fades, I'm already thinking about a campfire – a camping requirement, in my opinion. Once the fire is established and roaring, I love watching the glow of the red-hot coals underneath. To add to the allure, the crackling of the fire is accompanied by the rhythmic flow of the waves on the beach in close proximity. The other night I could see a distinct line of red in the distance marking the sun's departure over the horizon, and the rhythmic repetition of the lighthouse's signal light. A pleasing combination.

Tomorrow is guaranteed to be different from today. I'm looking forward to what Crisp Point will deliver for us.

 

 

Lighthouse Keeping

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For the second time this year, we are setting out on a working vacation, retirement style. The deal involves trading volunteer hours for lodging in a unique setting. Last winter we worked at Snow Mountain Ranch in Colorado. This time our destination is Crisp Point Lighthouse in Michigan’s UP near Whitefish Bay.

This lighthouse is one of five positioned between Grand Island and Whitefish Point. It’s only a distance of about 50 miles, but Lake Superior claimed numerous ships in this stretch in the 1800s, leading to its moniker as “The Shipwreck Coast.” Pressure to build lighthouses began in the 1850s but it was 1904 before Crisp Point finally received funding and became operational. It remained in service until 1993. After nearly falling into disrepair with Lake Superior encroaching on its shoreline and lapping at its base, the lighthouse was saved by some enterprising folks who ultimately founded the Crisp Point Light Historical Society. That group has done extensive restoration and preservation work, ensuring the survival of the lighthouse for future generations to enjoy.

Lighthouse and attached service building, years ago

Crisp Point Lighthouse is said to be a beauty. Its remoteness enhances the appeal of the site, with Lake Superior’s unspoiled shoreline providing a dramatic backdrop. Only the lighthouse remains of the multiple buildings that comprised the orginal complex. The attached service building was recently rebuilt, and a new visitor center resembles the old fog signal structure.

Our gig is to man the visitor center and keep the buildings and grounds clean. We are expected to greet visitors and open the tower and gift shop from 10-5. Our instructions tell us we must “maintain the high standards of friendliness, neatness and cleanliness” in carrying out our duties. Just how many guests we will entertain is uncertain. Given that the lighthouse is located at the end of an 18-mile dirt road in an already sparsely populated area, it is not a sight to attract casual tourists. But the true lighthouse affectionados will find their way there.

Our accomodations on site will be a rustic campsite perched on the edge of Lake Superior. Devoid of running water, electricity and other amenities including cell reception, we will have to be self-sufficient for our 5-day stint. While it’s not required to stay overnight on the lighthouse grounds, to us that is the whole appeal. We even upsized to a 3-man pup tent for more elbow room, a luxury of car camping. Having our own slice of Lake Superior shoreline, sitting by a crackling campfire, reveling in the super dark night skies and the ever-hopeful possibility of Northern Lights are the draw for us.

We should arrive at Crisp Point tomorrow morning about 8:00, in time to talk to the volunteers who are preceding us and get some pointers before assuming our duties at 10am. After that we will be out there on our own with little connection to the outside world, just like lighthouse keepers of old. Check back with us in about a week to see if we find ourselves fit for the job.

 

 

Evening Arrivals

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It’s not often that the Aerial Bridge opens just once for two boats. So when we saw the pair of boats headed for the canal, Rich and I quickly headed down to see them. It just so happened we were already nearby and had our camera equipment in the car – not so much of a coincidence, really.

IMG_4433 adjustedToo cheap to pay for parking in Canal Park now that tourist season has begun, we headed over the bridge and planted ourselves on the south pier. The sun was already behind the hill, but for a short period of time the boats were far enough out to catch the day’s last remaining rays of light. It made for a pleasing effect reflecting off the superstructures in the otherwise dim light of the evening.

They boats were a motley pair. Out front was the Lakes Contender, which is really a flat barge with a custom tugboat cleverly tucked into a slot in the back end to propel it down the lake. Behind that was the Pilica, a saltie that flies the Maltese flag but is owned by the Polish Steamship Company, was built in Poland and carries a Polish crew.  That vessel had much more pleasing lines.

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IMG_4441 adjustedRich and I took up different stations along the pier, each testing out different camera settings and composition. The boats glided almost soundlessly through the canal as our cameras clicked and whirred. Once past a reasonable position for a good photo, I could stop and take it in with my own eyes instead of through the viewfinder. It’s infinitely more enjoyable that way, but that’s hard to remember when in pursuit of good photographs.

Although it was a cool evening, the wind had dropped and I found I was oblivious to the chill while watching the popular spectacle. After a long absence due to the late spring and ice-clogged lake, it is wonderful to have frequent shipping traffic once again. And evening is a magical time to watch the boats come in off the lake and welcome them through the bridge.

Duluth’s legendary ice

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Here it is May 28, and we still have ice on the lake.  That’s no surprise to anyone who spent the winter here.  There is no doubt we had sufficiently cold temperatures to generate enough ice to last a lifetime.  Or at least into June – we think.

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Some days it’s here along the Duluth shore.  Other days the wind sends it over to the Wisconsin side.  Today, the floating remnants filled the rocky shoreline along the Canal Park portion of the Lakewalk.  Although it was a brilliantly sunny day, the NE wind swept down the lake to maintain a permanent chill in the air.  It didn’t feel like a whole lot of melting was going on.IMG_4426 trimmed

Being a weekday, visitors were sparse.  But those who lingered after the Memorial Day weekend were clearly intrigued with this wintry phenomenon.  The ice featured prominently in many a tourist photo.

I just missed getting to the bridge in time to see the Paul R. Tregurtha arrive.  But I did catch the current it generated.  Ice floes bobbed in the canal, gliding under the bridge and into the harbor well after the boat disappeared from view.

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It would appear that the Vista fleet is finally able to venture out into the lake for its tours, after weeks of being confined to the harbor.  Those on board seemed thrilled with the ride, including the now famous ice.

With June 1 just four days away, the possibility of still having ice on Lake Superior looks pretty good.  Time will tell if this ice breaks that barrier.  I hope so.  It’s the stuff legends are made of.

The Rocks

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Picnic on The RocksWe only knew the place as “The Rocks.”  It was our favorite picnic spot.  On any given day, if the weather was nice Mom would pack up the little grill, food for dinner, and marshmallows.  As soon as Dad got home from work we’d be off to The Rocks.

The prime feature of this site was the huge expanse of flat rock adjacent to Lake Superior.  It was the perfect sitting area, table, cooking platform and viewing spot.  We loved to run around on the rocks, dip our feet in the water and explore.  Mom always brought a towel because someone was bound to fall into the lake.

Adjacent to the The Rocks was a pebble beach, with an endless supply of rocks to skip or throw into the lake.  We spent hours filling Lake Superior with those rocks.

IMG_4204-001Little changes over the years alongside Lake Superior.  That area now known as Brighton Beach is just down the road from our house.  Who knew that years later I would return to Duluth and settle so near The Rocks?  The area is much more park-like these days, with an abundance of picnic tables and park benches for staring out at the lake.  But I still prefer to sit on The Rocks.

I’m continually drawn to this small section of shoreline.  In the summer I run or cycle through it almost daily.  If I set out on a walk, I always end up there.  When the wind churns up the lake, I head there to check out the crashing waves.  In winter I love exploring the continually changing ice formations.  When Mom died, I sought solace on The Rocks, listening to the lapping water.

DSCN8992Mom and Dad introduced me to The Rocks.  Now I enjoy sharing them with my kids and grandkids.  That pebble beach is like a magnet, the rocks irresistible to all ages.  No visit to Duluth is complete without going down to the lake and throwing rocks.  No matter what season.

No doubt, years from now it will still be the same.  And I have no doubt it IMG_0328will always have that same appeal.  The big flat rocks will host picnics, and the pebbles will find their way into the lake.  Its name may change again, but to me it will always be The Rocks.

 

 

Park Point Delivers

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The weather wasn’t the greatest, but needing to get outside we decided on the Park Point Hiking Trail.  We had no particular purpose in mind.  Rich would be happy to find some birds, and I’d be content with a bit of exercise and fresh air.

With strong NE winds blowing off the lake, chilled by the miles of ice crushed up against the sandy beach, we were glad to find that the trail’s trees kept us reasonably sheltered.  In fact, as the skies brightened and we warmed with the effort of walking through shifty sand, the afternoon’s prospects improved considerably.

IMG_4026Detouring to the bay side, it was positively calm and almost warm.  There it was easy to dawdle through the grasses, soak up the sun and listen to the water quietly lapping at the shore.  While Rich checked his favorite birding spots, I wandered the shore admiring the driftwood, including the teepee sculpture left by some industrious visitors.

Warmed by that interlude, we continued along the trail.  Despite the growing patches of snow, and the cold winds that pierced the IMG_4038 cropped 2tree branches, we happily carried on and eventually made our way to the end – the Superior entry.  Walking out the narrow catwalk on the outside of the piers was chilling as we met the full force of the wind and were surrounded by ice that clogged most of the entry.  But having come that far, it wasn’t an option to stop short of the end of the pier.

It was only chance that made Rich look up as we carefully picked our way back to land, and there it was – a IMG_4053 croppedboat about to enter the canal.  We’d seen it loading at the grain dock across the harbor, and wished it would finish in time to see it leave.  It appeared our wish was being granted! Pushing its way through the floating ice, the Algoma Equinox created currents that propelled other ice flows past our perch back out at the end of the pier.  Slowly, gracefully it slid past us as our cameras clicked and whirred.

At the same time, we realized this was turning into a double-wish day.  Rich had speculated that the boat anchored off shore was waiting for the same grain dock, and sure IMG_4035enough – now it was visibly moving closer.  It seemed to be barely inching forward, and it was frigid standing out there in the wind.  But we knew we couldn’t leave.  Neither of us had ever seen a boat go through the Superior entry before, and now we had the chance to see one go in and one out all in one visit!  We alternately huddled behind the cement ramparts and peered over the edge to check on the boat’s progress.  ByIMG_4066 cropped the time it came close enough to put our cameras into action again, we’d been out there nearly an hour.  It looked like a twin of the departing ship.  But we welcomed the entrance of the Burns Harbor and accompanied it along the length of the pier, nearly keeping pace with its careful movement.

Regaining the protection of the hiking trail, we couldn’t help but feel pleased with our adventure.  We’d experienced the dichotomy of Park Point weather, ushered two ships through the Superior entry, and found plenty of photographic material.  For an afternoon with no expectations, Park Point certainly delivered.

North Shore Triple Exposure

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It was a long week.  Especially for those of us who thrive on outdoor activity.  Day after day of hard driving winds, sleet and rain meant squeezing in workouts in the “least bad” part of the day, and bearing the gloomy skies from behind rain-soaked windows for the remainder.

So when today dawned bright and sunny, in was an irresistible invitation to reconnect with Mother Nature.  And by instinct I headed for the North Shore.  My first engagement was my morning run.  Padding down the road along Brighton Beach, I took in the rich blue of the sky and the water reflecting the same deep hues.  The intensity of the colors filled my soul, after days of drabness deprived of this beauty.  Bright white ice still clung to the shoreline, in stark contrast with the blue – a dazzling sight.  The heavy gray rocks added the perfect balance and seemed to anchor the scene.  It was easy to press on, mile after mile admiring the shore and drinking in the sunlight.  Lacking a camera, I had to memorize the images of the shore in my mind instead.

As the day progressed and still we were graced with the sun, I knew I hadn’t yet had enough.  For my second encounter I enlisted a friend and cycled up the shore.  The same spell-binding scene passed by even more quickly as we pedaled.  Although the air was cool by the frigid water, it felt refreshing and crisp with the aid of the sun.  At Stony Point we circled back on the dirt road along the shoreline.  Where days earlier the pounding waves and high splashing water were the attraction, today it was a tranquil setting where a family picnicked on the rocks.  This time I had a camera in my trunk bag, but I was enjoying the ride too much to bother stopping to try and capture it.

After dinner I was enticed out to takeIMG_4005 a walk with my husband.  Hearing a boat toot for the bridge, we were inexorably drawn back to Brighton Beach once more.  My third visit to the shore for the day.  With the shipping lane finally opening up with increased traffic, the boat made rapid progress and was soon opposite our position.  The sun was low but still shone on the shallow ice as well as the passing ore boat.IMG_4012

Finally I was able to get some photos.  On foot, not distracted by the need to keep moving, I found the right motivation to focus and shoot.  I could record the end of the day, if not the beginning and middle.  I guess the third time’s the charm.

Annual Rite of Spring

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Does two years running make an annual event?  I’d like to think so.  For the second year in a row, Rich and I have been lured up the North Shore for our inaugural spring bike ride along the lake.  All it takes is a good weather forecast, plenty of warm sunshine and that glistening blue water.  Oh, and the disappearance of snow.  Or most of it, anyway.

By coincidence we chose a Monday exactly one week earlier than last year’s ride.  But the conditions were strikingly similar.  The temperatures were in the 50s and the wind was off the land, avoiding that cold lake wind chill factor.

IMG_3830We decided to ride from Gooseberry Falls State Park to Beaver Bay and back again.  That section of Lake Superior was ice-free near the shore, so we were able to enjoy views of the open water at its finest.  Conditions on land were not quite so uniform.  Wherever the sun shone, the ground was bare.  But shady areas still had an abundance of snow, and deep in the woods winter still reigned.

The same held true on the Gitchi-Gami State Trail.  Wherever it paralleled highway 61 and had plenty of sun, it was clear.  But where it dipped down toward the lake and snaked through the woods, the bike trail was buried in snow. We hopscotched from trail to highway shoulders as conditions warranted.  Fortunately, there was little traffic to bother us on a spring weekday morning.

IMG_8113With the spring runoff, the rivers and streams were in prime form.  Gooseberry Falls was a rushing torrent, with water gushing over the rocks in a thunderous roar.  Along the shore, water forced its way over the stone cliffs, forming spontaneous waterfalls where normally none exist.  Ordinarily the Beaver River is barely noticeable when driving over the bridge, but that day it was hard to miss the teeming water.

IMG_3832The whole premise of this early spring ride was to enjoy the journey.  Since we had few miles under our wheels yet this season, there was no point in trying to press for speed.  And the novelty of the warm day just begged for lingering.  All the better for taking in the sights along the way.  No trip up the Shore is complete without stopping to admire Split Rock Lighthouse.  And we had to stop for IMG_3834Adirondack Chairs – just like in Gaspé!

The only thing missing was an ice cream break.  I’m still not sure how we let that happen.  We will have to improve on that next year.  On the first balmy spring day.  The 3rd annual rite of spring.

 

 

 

Escape from Everlasting Winter

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In a winter already renowned for it’s below zero temperatures and lasting deep snow on the ground, we faced yet another winter storm warning just as April approached. We were plenty accustomed to bracing for storms, but this one held another threat for us. The impending nasty weather perfectly coincided with our scheduled departure for Florida. Our escape was in jeopardy.

But the preparations went on. It was hard enough to make sense of the t-shirts, shorts and sandals piled on the bed to be packed. Envisioning wearing them was even more of a challenge. It must have had a lot to do with the piles of snow staring at us through the windows.

Fortunately, weather forecasts are imperfect at best, and this storm failed to materialize as early as predicted. We breezed up to the Duluth airport and our flight departed right on time. Whew! Let the storm rage, now that we were safely out of its reach.

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Canal Park by Air – taken by Rich Hoeg

Our flight path took us right over Canal Park where Rich took a dramatic photo out the window. Lake Superior’s icy surface was ubiquitous. The open channel through the Aerial Bridge showed up in stark contrast, and quickly dissolved into tightly clustered ice chunks which gave way to solid ice. Clearly the hard work of the Coast Guard ice cutters was short lived. It was easy to see why the nascent shipping season had come to a rapid halt.

Florida feels like another world. It’s green everywhere, flowers are in bloom, and the sun sheds a genuine warmth. In fact, sitting in the sun reading my book I get hot. But I’m not complaining. Running early in the morning is refreshingly cool, and my natural impulse is to avoid the wet spots from the automatic sprinklers. But the ice I expect is far from reality. What pure joy!

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To double our pleasure, we check the webcam back home. Ooh boy, does it look ugly looking down our front steps. Icy rain splatters the windows and it just plain looks cold. My weather app reports dangerous high winds, and friends confirm the terrible driving conditions. It’s a winter storm all right, not an April Fool’s joke. Or is it?

No matter.  We have escaped for now.  We will worry about the everlasting part when we return.