Tag Archives: Lake Superior

Never Say Never

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I said I was done skiing for the season.  I even put my boots away.  But when I went out for a walk to take pictures of the deep new snow early this morning, and found myself shoveling the sidewalk just to prolong my time outside, I knew I was going to renege on that statement.

My inspiration was Rich’s “epic ski” last week.  Taking advantage of the road closings for building the Lakewalk tunnel, he was able to ski from home down to Brighton Beach and on up the Scenic Highway to the pumping station.  I was so envious!  So I set out to recreate his journey.

My timing was perfect – the sun began to emerge just as I set out, which greatly enhanced the scenery.  The snow was still firm and not yet slushy, and few cars had ventured down the unplowed roads on my route.  Lake Superior picked up the blue hues of the clearing sky, and big rollers brought waves splashing up onto the rocks on the shoreline.  The views were glorious.

My revery was abruptly interrupted upon reaching the Scenic Highway to find it neatly plowed down to the pavement.  The detours had been changed, and so were my plans.  But it wasn’t the kind of day for disappointment.  Brighton Beach was every bit as entrancing on my return trip.

By then I was on a roll.  So I stretched my return trip to take in the Lester-Amity ski trails.  The city has long since stopped grooming the ski trails, but earlier skiers had generously left good classic tracks for me to follow.  When those ended, I did my share by tracking the next loop of the system.  The trees were heavily laden with snow, bending deeply over the trail and occasionally snapping under the weight.  Even at this late stage of spring, I had to admit it was a winter wonderland.

I’m glad my resolve didn’t hold.  Just see what I would have missed!

[Click on any photo to view as a slideshow.]

Rocky shoreline at Brighton Beach
Waves crashing
Skiing through the shadows
A wintry scene
Looking beyond Brighton Beach
Retracing my route along Brighton Beach
Trees coated with snow
Untracked section of the ski trails
Lester-Amity ski trail
Trees laden with snow hang over the Lester-Amity trails

Visiting Daloof

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As we neared the top of Thompson Hill, my daughter, Karen, announced to her children, “We’re almost to Duluth!”  Even at the tender age of almost-three, Ben knew what that meant.  He looked out the window of the car as the harbor came into view, and said, “Oh, Daloof!  There is the big bridge!”  I have no idea which bridge he was looking at – Bong, Blatnick or Aerial.  It didn’t matter, his perspective brought them all into focus for me, as I enjoyed each of them with new appreciation.  And over the next few days during their visit, I would see all the sights through his eyes.

IMG_9786No visit is complete without a trip to Brighton Beach.  Most kids probably think a beach means sand.  Not Ben.  He loves the rocks there, and rearranges them each time we go.  This trip, the ice prevent us from throwing the rocks into the water.  No matter, throwing them onto ice worked just as well.

Lake Superior was never far from our sight.  Like any good Duluthian, Ben could appreciate the Big Lake.  When asked what lake that was, his response was “Blue.”  Ben and I definitely agree on that one.

Hard as we tried, we could not make it to Canal Park when a boat was coming through the bridge.  Such is the reality of life with toddlers.  Someone was always napping or eating when the boats were due to arrive.  But we went anyway.   We walked along the pier under the bridge, thinking Ben would enjoy seeing the cars go overhead.  He was less amused than we were, but the puddles were to his liking.

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Karen and I slipped out for a run along the Lakewalk one morning, leaving Grandpa in charge of the kids.  We happened to catch the now-famous black bear sleepily meandering beyondIMG_9791 his hibernation spot in the culvert.  We brought the kids back later in the day to see Mr. Bear.  He was lazily resting in the sun, but even that was a bit threatening to Ben.  He was right – that was a wild animal there, just beyond a meager fence.  He had a healthier attitude toward the bear than most of the gawking adults gathered there.

I’m looking forward to Ben’s next visit to Daloof.  I can think of lots more sights I’d like him to show me.

My favorite color blue

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IMG_0572 IMG_0567IMG_0576 IMG_0578When I was growing up, I had a ready answer to “What is your favorite color?”  No question, it was blue.  But not just any blue.  It was the blue of a deep blue sky.  It was the color of cornflower blue in my box of crayons.  It is still etched very specifically in my mind, and it’s still my favorite color.

Riding my bike up the North Shore last week I delighted in the hues of that blue all along the way.  Lake Superior was in rare form, still and calm, reflecting that deep blue sky.  And the contrast with the snow and ice on the edge of the lake accentuated that blue.  It was a feast for the eyes, enhancing the wonderful day to be out cycling.

The ice formations along the shoreline were fascinating in their variety.  In some areas, thin ice was pushed up into a crush of jaggedy piles, the sharp edges protruding in spiky peaks.  In others, clear ice formed a patchwork of round fragments, sewn together by crusty white edges.  Some spots were still covered in deep snow, mounded over the rocks that lined the shoreline.

I think I have another descriptor for my favorite color: Lake Superior blue.

Blue Ice

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Not every day is perfect for taking photos.  And this afternoon certainly did not qualify as spectacular, being cloudy and blasé.  But I decided to head down to Brighton Beach with my camera anyway.  Who knows, perhaps there would be some interesting ice formations I reasoned.

IMG_0554The color was subtle but it was there – blue ice.  Out on the perimeter of the hard packed ice and snow, the lake ice had been pushed up to form an ice bank.  Thin sheets of recently formed ice were piled in haphazard formations.  There wasn’t anything too exceptional about them, except the color.  It was distinctly blue, bordering on aqua.  In the dreary light of the afternoon, it was as good as I was going to get for photo interest.IMG_0557

The blue seemed to modulate with the subtle changes in light through the clouds.  And it made for a nice change from the crusty melting snow turning dingy with spring dirt.  It was a worthwhile trip after all!IMG_0561IMG_0563

Signs of Spring?

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It was a bright sunny day, and the sky was that beautiful shade of blue.  Birds were singing, squirrels chattered away on our bird feeders and the 12 hours of sunlight proved this was the spring equinox.  But the signs of spring didn’t reach any further.

IMG_9626 In fact, March has been a far better winter than the months that preceded it.  With 12″ of snowfall in the last week, ski conditions on the local trails are the best I’ve ever seen.  It’s not often you can have winter snow for spring skiing.  So I’m plying the trails every chance I get.  My daughter says I am the only one happy about the lingering winter when I gush about the great skiing.

IMG_0504Maybe she’s not alone in her sentiments.  I suspect the mailman is not so thrilled about the lack of spring.  It must be a challenge to deliver to mailboxes that threaten to disappear beneath the mountainous snowbanks.

The neighborhood children may be similarly disappointed.  Last fall the old playground equipment in the nearbyIMG_0519 park was dismantled and removed with the promise of newer, better swings, slides and climbers.  The surface has been prepared, but who can find it under the snow?  It appears the playground is inevitably delayed.

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“The Deeps” on Amity Creek has a long way to go before it resumes its attraction for area teenagers and thrill seekers anxious to jump into the pool below the waterfall.  A bit of melting is in order before we will even see flowing water again.  For now, it is picturesque in its own way, beneath the layers of snow.

Mesabi Miner

But there is one sign of spring that did not disappoint today.  I was lucky enough to catch sight of the first laker to leave the port of Duluth, marking the beginning of the 2013 shipping season.  Seeing Mesabi Miner out on Lake Superior was undeniably stirring.  And if ships are sailing again, truly spring can’t be far behind.

Snowshoe Delight

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After a winter spent diligently plying the ski trails, it was the perfect day to change our tune and head out on snowshoes.  With the Birkie behind us, all sense of urgency for training had dissipated.  The brilliant sunshine and the deep fresh new snow just begged for an afternoon of discovery.  My son, Erik, and I answered that siren’s call.

Living on the far edge of Duluth, the vast beauty of the North Shore beckoned, and we sought out the nearby Sucker River for our trek.  Starting from Old North Shore Road, we were a bit off-put by a large group of snowshoers that preceded us down the trail to the river, and even less thrilled by the snowmobile trampled path that led upstream where we’d intended to go.  So it was an easy decision to head the opposite direction, and we were well rewarded for our choice.

IMG_0463That section of the river was unspoiled by snowmobile tracks and had only vague signs of earlier snowshoe imprints before the last deep snowfall.  The snow was blindingly white as it reflected the bright sunlight, and we sank deeply into the thick fresh powder as we made our way downstream.  We saw only one set of skiers and a couple of hikers along the way.  The rest was virgin territory for us.  It was exactly what we’d come for.

IMG_0487The snow was soft and moist in the near-freezing air, perfect for a snowman.  Erik couldn’t resist the opportunity to create a friend along the way.  The warmth of the sun quickly dissipated in the shady areas, sending us a chill, but rewarmed us immediately upon returning to its toasty rays.

Reaching the shore of Lake Superior, we were treated to a beauty of a different nature.  The ice coating the lake near shore was thin and fragile, stacking itself into piles of delicate tiles that floated on the softly undulating water.  It made a tinkling sound as it bobbed up and down, and broke into glassy shards when it encountered a nearby rock.  It was mesmerizing to watch and listen to its gentle sounds.

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We traveled only 3.5 kilometers, down the river and back.  But it was a rich and satisfying hike that allowed us to unwind and enjoy nature’s beauty without constraint.  It’s what a sunny winter afternoon should be.  It was sheer delight.

Skiing Lake Superior by Candlelight

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How could anyone find skiing or snowshoeing across the frozen ice of Lake Superior at night to be enticing?  Apparently, a lot of people do!

Imagine yourself at the start line.  You are surrounded by throngs of people on skis and snowshoes, some in silly costumes.  You see people of all ages, many of them families with youngsters.  Clearly this is not a highly competitive ski race, although those at the front might think otherwise.  The sun has set, darkness is descending as well as the temperature, and there is a palpable energy in the crowd.  Following the national anthem, and an energetic “Go!” you set off.

Book Across the Bay routeWhere are you?  It’s Book Across the Bay, an annual cross-country ski and snowshoe race on a 10k trail groomed across Chequamegon Bay of Lake Superior.   What started as just a crazy idea in 1996 with 350 participants has grown into an annual event that drew nearly 4,000 people this year.  The hallmark of this race is that it is lit by about 1,000 ice luminaries, with bonfires every kilometer.

BATB 1We were part of the excitement last Saturday night for our third year in a row.  We started off by skiing to the starting line, as the sun was setting.  Preparations were in full swing, with luminaries being lit, wood for the bonfires in piles, and pine trees marking the 1k intervals.  Hearty volunteers were cheerfully setting up tents and doing some last minute snow shoveling out on the ice.

BATB 4We arrived at the starting point in Ashland just 10 minutes before the start of the race – perfect timing, as the temperature was dipping into the single digits under a clear sky.  Dusk quickly transformed into darkness as we set off with all the other skiers.  Once the crowds thinned out, silence reigned with only the swish of our skis or the flop of snowshoes to alert us of other people nearby.  Skiing under brilliant stars with the string of candlelight stretching across the bay was intoxicating.  The snow cover was excellent and the groomers had done a marvelous job of preparing the trail.  Still, in the dim light one had to take the surface on faith and navigate carefully over the few inevitable rough icy spots along the way.

We could see each kilometer mark off in the distance, lit by a blazing bonfire.  Some sponsors created a theme, including trees with Christmas lights.  My favorite is always the one by the huge offshore rock at 8k, lit with flaming tiki lamps alongside the cliffs at the shoreline.  This year there was an added feature – a fire-breathing dragon carved out of snow, belching real fireballs!

08-Canon-FireworksThe finale in Washburn includes fireworks, and this year they began before we reached the finish line.  What a festive atmosphere, to ski the final kilometer punctuated by brilliant bursts of light and color high in the sky!  From there it was a quick jaunt up the landing to shed our skis and warm ourselves by the enormous bonfire on shore.  A huge warm tent awaited us with bowls of hot chili and a band providing music for the after-party.10-Canon-Bonfire

 

 

Who could resist such ambiance?  Not us – we can’t wait to do it again next year.

 

Many thanks to my husband, Rich (aka the NorthStar Nerd), for the photos.

Nordic Walking – on Skis

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I have to remind myself that skiing with a friend is not the same as training for the Birkie. The trails we ski are not the highly groomed, fast and populous areas where I put in mega kilometers and really push myself for technique and speed. And today was a prime example.

We chose the Porcupine Mountain Wilderness Area for today’s skiing. It’s perched on the edge of Lake Superior, and in the last few years they haven’t had good snow for cross-country skiing. Since the recent snowfall blanketed the Porcupines, we decided we should take the opportunity to try their trails.

It soon became clear that we were in a wilderness area, not a ski resort. The ski chalet reminded me of ski trips in my youth – rustic fireplaces and simple tables surrounded by families picnicking from coolers. Their definition of trail grooming was a bit loose. Yes, they were packed, but despite the designation as a classic ski trails, there were no classic tracks. We had a firm surface for skiing, but missed the solid tracks to keep our skis from slipping sideways.

Skiing through the woods, we saw side trails off to rustic cabins. We encountered one couple hiking through deep snow in the woods, searching in vain for their cabin, and hoping we could direct them. We’d passed it earlier on, and were happy to help. Further up the trail we saw a tent – sure enough, winter campers. We didn’t see many people out on the trails, but the footprints told us we were sharing the trail with hikers and shoeshoers.

We first headed out on the trail that parallels Lake Superior near the shore. It was quiet and pretty. The closer we got to the lake, the more moisture in the snow, which made it sticky. Add that to the other trail conditions, and this was going to be a slow ski.

The winds were forecast to increase all day long, and it was blustery near the lake. The thick snow on the trees was whipped through the air and it felt like skiing through bouts of blizzard. The best part of that trail was the short section where we could see the lake. It was already stirred up, and waves were crashing in on the rocks.

The more extensive trails wind around and behind the ski hill. We assumed that meant steep inclines, but were pleasantly surprised to find the trails were nicely undulating. They wove through the woods and the snow coverage was deeper there than near the lake. It was beautiful skiing.

The afternoon slipped by quickly, but the kilometers did not. Forward movement was earnestly earned by the effort required to overcome the stickiness of the snow. It felt more like walking at times. Nordic Walking with poles. But on skis. It was not Birkie training. But it was definitely an endurance workout. In beautiful surroundings.

Lake Superior Delivers

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The weather gods were certainly shining on us. We awoke this morning to a classic lake effect snowfall that blanketed Duluth, Wisconsin and the UP of Michigan – just what we asked for! We traipsed through several inches of new snow as we loaded the car, and left in the midst of big flakes plummeting down at a rapid pace. Real winter at last, and great start to our XC trip.

While the fresh snow erased the barren brown ground and covered the icy remnants of old snow crust, it also meant snowy slippery roads for our travels from Duluth to Ironwood. It felt like relearning winter driving again, especially as the snow plows appeared to be waiting for the snow to stop falling before clearing the roads. Lanes were impossible to see, snow billowed all around us each time a car passed by, and I had a sneaky suspicion it was slippery under all that white stuff. But we forged on, safely thankfully.

We made our requisite stop at a charming coffee shop en route, where we planned our day’s skiing over coffee and fresh muffins. The proprietor was an enthusiastic foodie, which delighted Susan no end, and on her lead we detoured to the local coop and bakery for hearty breads and baked goods. They would make a good supplement to our evening meal in front of the fire at the B&B, we reasoned.

We chose the ABR trails in Ironwood for our day’s ski, figuring they were most likely to be freshly groomed and had plenty of kilometers for us to explore. Groomed they were, but not everywhere. Skate skiers seemed to take precedence, with the classic-only trails yet to be addressed. But we decided that was a benefit, not a hindrance. Some classic trails were skier-tracked, which worked well yet still retained a feeling of remoteness. Classic-only also have the advantage of being narrower, closely lined by trees – our favorite type of trail.

Further out, we found trails that were still untouched. We could see the faint outline of the tracks set before the new snowfall, but they were otherwise blanketed in pristine new snow. It was too good to pass up! We broke trail and skied through the silent woods for several hours on those trails. No matter that it was slow going – this wasn’t about speed, it was about experience, and it was perfect. Even with 3-4″ fresh powder, there was still enough glide to make it easy going and enjoyable.

As each new section of trail beckoned to us, we ventured farther and farther out on the trail system. By the time we neared the trailhead, sunset was long behind us and the light was growing dim. The full parking lot was dotted by only a few remaining cars, and we were tired. But it was a good tired.

Thank you, Lake Superior, for another wonderful day of skiing.

Lake Effect Snow

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Come on, Lake Superior, do your stuff! Tonight I head out for my 21st annual cross-country ski trip with my friend Susan. And we’re counting on lake effect snow to resurrect the ski trails after the abysmal winter conditions of late.

Over the years, we have covered all the trails on the North Shore, taking pride in checking them off and highlighting our maps to see our progress. We have made repeat trips up the Gunflint Trail, enjoying the large trail systems there that usually have good snow coverage. We’ve skied the Birkie trails near Hayward, and ventured East, to try Maplelag and its many kilometers of skiing right outside the door.

Map of US lake effect areas around the Great Lakes – from Wikipedia

This year we chose a different destination, thinking that we had a sure bet for snow by going to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. After all, for the last 30 years Ironwood has had an average of 188″ of snow a year, with snowfall on 79 days of the winter.  And most of that is lake effect snow. The westerly winds blowing cold air over Lake Superior gather and retain moisture over the relative warmth of the lake. But once the saturated clouds hit land, they dump that moisture and voila – snow! Lots of it. Hence the area’s reputation as a snow-belt. When Minnesota and the North Shore are short on snow, the UP normally delivers.

This isn’t the first time we’ve been snow challenged on our trip. A few years back we brought along our hiking boots, and used them more than our skis. Another year, the temperatures rose so high on our first day skiing that the trails turned to sheer ice for the remainder of the weekend.  We switched to snowshoeing in the woods.  Once we encountered yellow, slushy ice crossing while crossing a lake, even in mid-winter – we were glad to reach the other shore safely. And everyone remembers last year, the winter that wasn’t.

No matter what the snow conditions, the temperatures or the accommodations, we always manage to have a good time. I’m sure this year will be no exception. But having ample snow and well groomed trails sure goes a long way toward that end. No pressure, Lake Superior.  We have faith in you.