Final Totals: 34 days, 1521 miles

After 33 days on our cycling tour we had yet to get significantly wet. In fact we only had rain on 4 days. And for all of those we were able to wait it out or take cover. That was all about to change for our final day on the bikes.

Given a decent weather forecast, we were willing to hang in our B&B for another day. It wouldn’t have taken much arm twisting. But the rain looked to continue for days, with some potential storms. So after our leisurely gourmet breakfast and pleasant conversation with the other guests, we returned to the Katy Trail to complete our trip.

We weren’t even out of the front garden before the first light drops began to fall. Ignoring the obvious, we forged on in oddly good humor. Knowing we had only 28 miles to cover was helpful. We were also glad to see that the trail was in good shape. Being closer to St. Louis and getting higher usage, it was more firmly packed and resisted the rain longer.

Even when the precipitation increased to a legitimate rainfall, we resisted putting on our rain jackets. It was still warm, and as long as we could avoid sporting rain gear we were able to deny the reality of our situation. The trees formed a nice canopy over our heads, providing some measure of protection. It really wasn’t all that bad. And we continually repeated our mantra, “Thank heavens for our new fenders.”

With 20 miles behind us, Rich called a time out. There was a garden center across the way and he proposed that we put on dry shirts and our rain jackets before crossing the high bridge over the Missouri River. By then, it seemed a reasonable idea.

Once off the bikes, we were able to survey the morning’s handiwork. Our bikes and legs sported a good deal of Katy Trail mud, but we would have been far wetter and dirtier without the protection of those fenders.

It wasn’t until I donned my alternate jersey that I realized that I was in fact chilled, and it felt oh so good to be dry. To add to our comfort, we found that there was a little café inside which served a delicious hot quiche. It was a very welcome snack break.

Fortified with food, warmth and rain protection we resumed cycling. We had planned to cycle to St. Charles and spend time in that attractive town, but discarded that idea because of the rain. Instead we proceeded directly across the bridge that would take us to Creve Coeur Park, our final destination. Winding our way through the park, we just happened to find the Lakeside Café. No sooner had we ducked under the front porch when the rain came down in buckets. But that no longer mattered, we were finished!

We were happy to wait under the front porch for my cousin to pick us up, but the staff wouldn’t hear of it. Even though they were closed and setting up for a wedding, they invited us inside and opened up the bar for us. Rich had a celebratory glass of Chardonnay while we happily chatted with the workers.

I really wanted to stay longer. Our wonderful Warm Showers hosts in Hermann – particularly the kids – had encouraged us to extend our stay, and it was such an attractive offer. But Rich was dutifully watching the weather and thought it best that we head out right after breakfast. As luck would have it, the rain started just as he brought the bikes around. Before we even got them loaded, it was raining hard. Oh, too bad – a rain delay! We were going to be off the Katy trail for a while by the looks of the weather map. It turned out to be a delightful morning.

Heading out with Keely and the girls, we got a wonderful insider’s view of Hermann. Our first stop was Espresso Laine. I was able to indulge in a latte and we sipped drinks in the attractive local coffee shop while the rain came down. Next we dashed into the new leather goods shop owned by a friend of theirs. We were fascinated by the extensive equipment in the back room and learn a bit about how shoe repair is done. And I enjoyed admiring the beautiful leather purses up front. It was true craftsmanship in the works.

Next door we visited a “federally approved kitchen,” which was particularly significant. Three years ago, then 8-year-old Julie set out to help her dad fund a mission trip to Africa. Unbeknownst to him, she began making toffee (which he’d taught her to make) and sold enough batches to surprise him with enough funds to pay for his plane ticket! It has since grown into a true commercial enterprise, called Toffee on the Run, which she continues to run today with support from her family. It was fun to see where produces her toffee and learn more about her company. She is an amazing young woman.

Shortly after lunch, the rain seemed to be letting up. Rich declared that there was enough of a window for us to attempt to reach Augusta, although there were no firm promises of staying dry. We loaded up the bicycles, said our goodbyes, and were off – back on the Katy Trail once more.

With plenty of rain overnight and all morning, the trail was soft and the going was tough in places. Discovering that highway 94 paralleled the trail, Rich proposed that we take advantage of the smooth pavement and ditch the trail for that portion. Ever the purist, I wouldn’t hear of it, so we slogged on. After all, we’d planned to do the whole Katy Trail. By the next time we crossed the road, Rich had had enough. We were moving to the highway. Much to my dismay, we were off the Katy Trail again. Grumbling and complaining, I followed him down the road.

It just so happened that Rich had chosen the portion of the road that was inland from the Missouri River. On the bluff side. We barely rounded the corner before we were faced with our first hill. And it was a steep one. That was followed by a swift downhill and even higher, longer uphill. And the sequence repeated itself. Again and again, for several miles. I kept my mouth shut. For “Him who Hates Hills” it was a bitter pill to swallow. When we came upon a road that led back to the trail, Rich put up no argument. We were soon back on the Katy Trail.

With dark clouds behind us, we were eager to make tracks and beat the rain. By that point, our feud was over and I had to admit that Rich did have some logic. So we bounced back and forth between road and trail beyond that point, but only when the road lay between the trail and the river.

We made Augusta by late afternoon, and still dry! There was a quick shower shortly after we reached the trailhead, but even that let up by the time we headed to our lodging. Once again we were truly blessed in our timing.

With this being the last night of our trip, we justified staying at a posh B&B called the Clay House. Returning later after dinner, it was particularly attractive in the evening light, so Rich returned outside to capture the beauty of the moment. Off the Katy Trail.

We chose the Katy Trail as the finale of our Spring North Tour. Not only would it conveniently return us to St. Louis and reconnect us with our car, but we suspected that finishing with a flat, dedicated bike trail would be a nice way to ease ourselves to the finish.

The Katy trail stretches 240 miles across Missouri and is the longest rails-to-trails project in the country. We started at Clinton, its westernmost terminus, and headed east. Using our normal mileages, we calculated that four days would be enough to complete the trail. But after the first day or so, we quickly adjusted our plans to add an extra day. It didn’t make sense to rush through – the trail is designed so that cyclists can enjoy the many towns along the way. That appealed to me, and even after slowing down I wished we’d left more time to explore.

From Clinton to Booneville, the trail angles to the northeast heading to the Missouri River. Although railroad beds are known for being very flat, we were surprised to find that there was actually quite a bit of elevation change in that section. It was all very gradual, but we did reach the highest point of the trail. Rich seemed to think it was quite a climb!

The trail surface is crushed limestone. For the most part, it is very well maintained and rough spots are very well marked. It makes for good cycling, but it does take its toll. It’s not like rolling over smooth pavement where it is easy to gain momentum and glide along. The rougher limestone takes more effort, costing us a gear or two, and even with 1400 miles behind us we could feel that extra work by the end of the day.

The surroundings of the trail changed frequently. At times it was out in the wide open, surrounded by farm fields and flat land. In some areas they were working to restore the prairie grasses. Other times there were trees lining the trail, which were a welcome wind break for us. Best of all were the wooded sections, with thick undergrowth and trees that stretched to meet over our heads forming a tunnel.

We were still being treated to an abundance of wild flowers, and my eyes were glued to the sides of the trail searching out different varieties throughout the day.

There are still reminders of the Katy Railroad along the trail. Old switch boxes and signals are visible, and the truss bridges now carry cyclists across the frequent steams and rivers. A few of the beautiful old depots still stand, frequently serving as information centers at the trail heads. And caboose cars are also popular fixtures in some of the towns.

It makes for a nice change from navigating the roads, figuring out directions and dealing with cars. But one thing doesn’t change. Even heading down the Katy Trail, there’s nothing like ice cream at the end of the day.

By now it's pretty obvious that we think traveling by bicycle is the greatest. But there are those who worry about us. And the countless folks we meet who are intrigued with our trip always feel compelled to add “Stay safe” to their farewells. While safety is constantly at the top of that our minds, I will admit that there are certain hazards inherent in this mode of travel.

Rumble Strips – I used to think it was great to have this buffer between me and the cars. But I've changed my mind. I don't think I've ever been spared by a rumble strip. To put it bluntly, I hate them. More than once, I've inadvertently ridden over them, only to be shaken to bits and narrowly avoided losing control of my bike. The ones that really fry me are those that infiltrate the already too-small space on the shoulder. Balancing on the fine line between the rumbles and a drop off turns my knuckles white. It leaves me no choice but to ride in the car lane.

Road Kill – We've seen roadkill on our previous trips, but for some reason this tour tops them all for the frequency of such sightings. Most often the extinguished animals are in the middle of the road but we do get our share to avoid on the shoulder. And the stink pervades the area no matter where they lie. The most common and unique victim by far has been the armadillo. We have yet to see a live one. We're beginning to believe they only exist as roadkill.

Speed Limits – We expect fast traffic on big highways. But on the smaller, 2-lane roads we assume there will be lower speed limits. Not so in Texas. There we commonly found 70 mph speed limits on those small farm roads. The ones with hardly any shoulders. That's unnerving.

This pooch wasn't any threat

Barking Dogs – I do like dogs. Just not when they are chasing me on my bike. For some reason, dog owners in rural areas think it's okay to let them run free. The thing is, when they come charging out of the yard barking at me, I have no way to tell if they are just friendly or about to chomp down on my leg. Or get in my way. Nothing gets my heart racing or my legs pumping faster than the approach of a barking dog.

Cars and Trucks – It goes without saying that cars and trucks are the biggest threat to us on the road. But then again, without them there would be no roads. We are, after all, in their space. And we respect that. Given any quarrel, they win. Every time.

Soon we will leave all this behind. Tomorrow we begin our final leg of the trip which is on the Katy Trail, a dedicated bicycle path that extends 240 miles across Missouri. There we can enjoy carefree cycling on the trail and say farewell to the hazards of the road.

Progress to date: 26 days, 1,112 miles

If ever there was a perfect day for cycling touring, today was it. Although we only covered a modest 41 miles, the remainder of our day was filled with lovely experiences.

We were up early and at the door of the local coffeehouse just as it was opening. I was able to have my morning latte and I'd made Rich promise not to rush me over my morning brew. It's just as well, as it was a chilly 46 when we left the motel, and the extra minutes I spent lingering gained us a few extra degrees.

It was another perfectly sunny day with little wind and fantastic cycling conditions. The countryside was at its best, with rolling hills and rich greenery flanking the road. As usual, we attracted the attention of every dog we passed, who came out to chase and bark at us. And we sent the cows in the fields running – a most curious site as they often ran with us, not away. It was the kind of day you couldn't help but feel all was right with the world.

Our initial destination was Eureka Springs, a delightful little historic town where soldiers from the Civil War once spent time recuperating from the stresses of battle. We'd been there once before, so it didn't take us long to reacquaint ourselves with the town full of shops and cafés. We discovered some artists doing restoration work on the town's mural, which we found fascinating to watch. Rarely do we have a real lunch during our cycling days, but it seemed the thing to do. So we splurged on a meal at the Local Flavor Café, eating out on the deck overlooking the town – a delightful interlude in our day.

We'd made reservations at a modest resort in Eagle Rock, just over the border in Missouri on Table Rock Lake for the night. So we moved on in order to have time to enjoy that location in the afternoon. We didn't get away without a good share of rolling countryside and some healthy uphill climbs, just to remind us we were still within range of the Ozarks. With a stop at a grocery store to purchase food and wine for dinner, we arrived at our next piece of nirvana mid-afternoon.

The Lazy Eagle Resort was the perfect finale to our day. We spent the mild afternoon out on our deck where we could see Table Rock Lake through the trees. We eventually meandered down to the lake and marina, where it felt good to sit in the sun and watch the few boats go by.

Dinner was al fresco out on our deck, where we lingered easily over our meal, enjoyed a bottle of Chadonnay and ate too many Milano cookies. Yet another indulgence on this heavenly day.

That rain delay the other morning sure was a blessing. Because we only reached Ozark that evening, it left us with two gloriously sunny days in which to cycle through the Ozark National Forest. The timing couldn't have been better.

We followed scenic highway 23 north, and the portion through the forest is known as The Pig Trail. The name's origins are uncertain, but a leading hypothesis is because the route resembles a wild pig's curly tail. Another harks back to Razorback fans who used the route as a shortcut to get to University of Arkansas games. Regardless, it is a twisty, twirly, steep and winding road through the forested Ozark Mountains.

Although we could have crossed the forest in a day, I hated the thought of rushing through this area. After all, it was one of our major sights for the trip, emblazoned on our jerseys. So we decided to camp in the middle and take time to enjoy our surroundings. The result was that wonderful feeling of having all the time in the world to enjoy a beautiful bike ride on two perfect days.

We knew this was our stretch to go up and over the main portion of the mountains. So we were prepared for some steep climbs. Just how difficult it would really be was in fact not really clear to us. Each mile was an adventure, wondering just what the trail would bring. Fortunately, the road was very good, although the shoulder narrowed into non-existence on the most windy bits. We counted ourselves very lucky to be cycling in the middle of the week in the off-season when traffic was light. Admittedly, we shared the road with a few logging trucks and semis but we could easily hear their noisy approach and hasten out of their way.

One of the main stopping points on the trail is Turner Bend. An old shop that has been there for ages serves kayakers, rafters and campers as well as every other traveler who feels compelled to stop by for a spell. It was easy to linger and swap stories with others as we sat under the shady front porch and enjoyed a break. Their fresh deli sandwiches were also an essential element, being the only option for dinner that night. We loaded up on those, took in the nearby waterfall and checked out the Mulberry River.

At that point we were quite pleased with our progress. We'd navigated the hills without much trouble, enjoyed cycling under the archway of leaves overhead and made good time. We were well into the mountains and had only five miles remaining to reach our campground.

The kicker was that we'd reached the final approach to the pinnacle of the road. Suddenly those switchbacks that we could see on the map became reality, and we faced our steepest challenges of the trip. That section was riddled with hairpin curves, continuous banked turns and amazing inclines. It was also beautiful. Even under the strain, I could appreciate the sun streaming through the trees and deep blue sky beyond. I didn't, however, glance through the trees to any vista beyond. I was too intent on staying on the road. It was a huge triumph to ultimately reach the top, and I prided myself in being able to cycle the whole way! Although in all honesty, I have to say that the Ozarks pale in comparison to the climbs we did in Gaspé. Perhaps that's not such a bad thing.

We camped at Mulberry Mountain, where they hold a huge music festival each June. We happened to meet the director of the festival who explained that the large grassy area filled with “30,000 hippies” for the annual affair. For us, the open space provided panoramic views of the mountains surrounding us. Making use of our extra time in the afternoon, we took a hiking trail down to a creek. And finally we took in the sunset over the mountains.

It didn't take long this morning to complete the Pig Trail. After a bit more climbing, it was mostly downhill. Soon we were shooting out the other side of the forest. While some hills still awaited us, we knew the highest ridges were behind us. We'd conquered the Ozarks.