Deep snow, silent woods

Many times Susan and I have been snow challenged on our annual XC ski trip. Not this year. Snow was in abundance after about a foot of new snow fell on the North Shore the day before our trip. And more snow continued to fall and accumulate while we were there. Instead of navigating sparsely covered trails, we plowed through new snow still awaiting the arrival of the groomer. Or skied the latest powder into the previous set of tracks.  While it was slow going, and we didn’t cover anywhere near our usual number of kilometers, we put out plenty of effort blazing the trail. And it was so worth it.

DSCN0041There’s nothing like the silence of new snow. It slid soundlessly under our skis as we plodded along. It glistened in the sunshine, sparkling like closely packed constellations. And it muffled everything around us. Whenever I stopped, there was a total absence of sound. I could tell when a large bird flew overhead, announced by the whoosh of the air as it flapped its wings.

The trees were cloaked in heavy layers of snow. Skiing through deep pine woods was like traveling through a tunnel, with walls of snowy pine boughs. So beautiful. So peaceful.

DSCN0053The sky overhead was that deep blue that only comes with cold dry air. It made for a striking background in contrast to the snowy pines and tall willowy deciduous tree limbs.

The sunshine had a palpable warmth that was as noticeable in its absence in the cool shade as it was radiating on our faces when we stopped to soak it up. Late afternoon brought fiery sunsets with a brilliant red glow in the sky.

Yes, it was a good year for snow. And a great year for striding through the woods.

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Changing Perspectives

Tonight my good friend Susan arrives in Duluth for the start of our 22nd annual XC Ski weekend together.  This is the first time we haven’t driven up from the Cities together, talking our way through the dark to our first stop in Duluth.  I remember those days well, rushing out of work, decompressing on the drive and looking forward to some time to ourselves.  It was a release from kids, husbands, work and routine.

How things have changed, for me anyway.  Retirement has not only brought me back to Duluth, but I’ve left behind the stresses of work for good, not just for a long weekend.  The kids have all grown, and having the little ones in the house is now something special rather than a daily responsibility.

I no longer feel I need the “break.”  But I still look forward to our ski trip.  There is no substitute for time spent with a long-term friend, one who knows me well.  Nothing else compares to getting in some women time.  We can talk feelings, art, culture, crafts, family, life, religion and anything else that occurs to us.  Running out of things to talk about is never an issue.  And it is oh, so rewarding.

Of course we’ll ski.  We’ll put in asIMG_7501 many kilometers as we can squeeze in each day.  It will be invigorating and being out in the snowy woods will feed our souls.  We’ll revel in the views of Lake Superior and appreciate the beauty of the North Shore.  And each night we’ll collapse in front of the fireplace to enjoy some wine and cheese – and chocolates – and talk.

Yes, some things about this get-away weekend have changed.  But my real reasons for treasuring it stand firm.  It’s all just a matter of perspective.

 

 

 

 

Released!

Despite the bravado of the last post, depicting my defiance of the cold weather and continuing to enjoy winter activities regardless, I have my limits.  And I reached them these past few days.  With temperatures reaching -25 at night with highs of only -7 IMG_3215degrees and dangerously low wind chill factors, I did the only sensible thing and retreated.  Trading my skis for trips to the swimming pool and limiting my outdoor exposure to hurrying between the front door and the car, I resolved to stay warm.

The one advantage to cold IMG_3216temperatures here in northern Minnesota is that they are nearly always accompanied by clear blue skies.  If I couldn’t be outdoors, at least the sun could cheer me up.  The hard part was that it looked so inviting.  But I knew better.  Peering out the windows, taking it in from the warmth of our cozy house was close enough for the time being.

I almost went out yesterday.  Rich, being the more macho Minnesotan, went for a short ski.  But one look at his frosty garb upon his return convinced me I was wise to hold out for another day.

So today was the day.  I watched the temperatures soar through the morning, from -16 when I first got up to +3.5 by 1:00pm.  Yes!  It was well over my threshold of reasonableness, and soon I was bound for the ski trails. Sweet release!  Never mind that the snow was still cold and slow, I was back in the elements and feeling good.  I didn’t have much company on the trails, which was no big surprise.  My poles squeaked in the frozen snow and my skis made noisy complaints traversing the skate deck, refusing to glide.  But I was out there.  And it was good.  Let the winter continue!DSCN0031DSCN0034

 

 

Why do we do this?

Toe and hand warmers have become my best friends.  That little warm glow next to my sensitive digits is so comforting as once again I head out into the COLD.

The thermometer is hovering justDSCN0030 below zero – a veritable heat wave in this cold snap.  I pull on my long underwear, add several thermal layers, don my head wrap and head out the door with my skis.  For my first circuit around the trails I take in the sun’s golden glow on the trees and long shadows across the snow.  Despite its lack of warmth, I enjoy the ambiance and even the crisp air.  It makes me glad I made the effort to get out and ski.  During my second lap, the cold begins to infringe on my body.  First the thumbs go, followed by my fingers.  By the time I’m gliding rapidly down the final hills, my knees complain of the chill, and I have no desire to go for a third lap.  I can’t wait to reach the warmth of the house.

The Northern Lights indicators are all pointing to a high likelihood of activity.  My husband’s phone buzzes with multiple alerts informing him of the fact.  He’s intent on going out to see and photograph the display late at night, and I hesitate but decide to join him.  The temperature is already -11 and heading out of town and away from Lake Superior it continues to plummet.  Fortunately, Rich has been busy scoping out viewing points that allow us to stay in the car and watch for the northern glow.  We are happy to occupy our seats with their “bun warmers” and wait.  And wait.  Scuttled again with a lack of aurora, we decide to salvage the trip with some photo shots of stars.  It’s clear and cold, and Rich IMG_3190 trimmedcatches me doing a “warming dance” alongside my camera as it takes its long exposure on the tripod.  My photos weren’t very good, but we do get in some valuable practice, and a few good laughs, mostly at ourselves.  And I get a decent shot of the dashboard…

The temperature has finally risen into the teens, but snow is falling and the wind is fierce.  We watch the snow swirl outside our windows, note how blustery it is and think how cozy we are inside.  But we don’t stay there.  Instead, we pile into our down jackets and jump into a 4-wheel drive truck with friends to go to a UMD hockey game.  Hockey?  Me?  Okay, so I’m not really a hockey (or spectator sports) fan, but hey – it’s a social outing.  And after all, it’s indoors.

We’re Minnesotans – better yet, Duluthians.  And proud of it.  Life doesn’t stop just because it’s cold outside.  That’s why we keep the warm clothing industry in business and continue to pursue our outdoor activities.  Otherwise it would be a long, dull winter.

Ski-Shoeing

Today was my first ski of the season, if you can call it that.  After weeks of running, waiting for snow, it was finally here. I’m pretty leery about early season snow.  Unlike my husband who heads out on his skis at the first sign of a snowflake, I prefer to wait for the real deal.  But I had to admit that there was plenty of snow right outside my door this morning.  So I waxed up my classic skis and headed out.

It was deep all right.  Thick and moist too.  Lacking groomed trails yet, I made my way up Seven Bridges Road.  For once, I considered the snowmobiles my friends, as they had packed down a nice trail right down the middle of the road.  It was far easier following their path than trying to break trail.

IMG_0574Although the wind howled overhead, the road was pretty well sheltered.  The trees were laden with snow, some bending way over under the heavy weight.  And the world was silent.  Progress was slow, and getting any glide from my skis was only a wish, but the early season novelty of the new fallen snow was ample compensation.

Continuing onto Skyline Drive and summiting at Hawk Ridge, I came into the full force of the wind.  It raged across the open viewing area and obliterated the snowmobile tracks.  Down below the city faded into greyness and Lake Superior was left to my imagination.  The only reality was the snow beneath my skis.

IMG_0572I hoped for some benefit from retracing my tracks on the return trip, but it was a futile wish.  If anything, the snow was softening and increasingly clumped up on the bottom of my skis.  It felt more like walking than skiing.  That’s when I coined a new phrase – ski-shoeing. Tramping through deep new snow being held up by long sticks instead of snowshoes.  At least I had the benefit of my ski poles.

It may not have been glorious skiing, but it was a start.  And it felt great to be outside in the snow.  Perhaps tomorrow I’ll dig out my snowshoes.

Hidden Adventures

One of the greatest things about this trip is that we never know what interesting experience awaits us each day.

This day started out ordinary enough. In fact, I was finding it a particularly blasé ride. With a wind in our faces, a chill in the air and not much scenery to distract me, it was one of those days that felt like it's sole purpose was to get from Point A to Point B. Some days are like that. Not every mile can be spectacular.

The good news is that the sun was shining, and as it warmed the air it also thawed my attitude. And there were a few bright spots along the way, which Rich captured nicely.

River flowing into Chaleur Bay
What a field of flowers!

In our usual struggle to find food, some locals directed us to La Source restaurant up ahead in Charlo. It was a bit off the beaten track, so we were thrilled when we found it. The meal was as good as promised, but it delivered much, much more. Striking up a conversation with the owner, Guy Lavoilette, we learned that we shared common interest in Nordic skiing, including skiing the American Birkebeiner. Guy asked if we had time to come out and see the local Nordic ski venue. With an eager Yes! we were soon heading off into the woods in his van.

We soon learned that this is no ordinary ski club. While it does serve the community, it is also a world-class training center for not only Nordic skiing but also biathlon. And it soon became apparent that Guy is an active leader in the Canadian National Nordic Ski program. We were wowed by the facilities and left more than a little envious.

Guy and Rich at the Charlo XC trail map

Guy and Rich at the Charlo XC trail map

Molly in the Nordic Ski Chalet - Wow!

Molly in the Nordic Ski Chalet - Wow!

Guy and Rich at the Biathlon range

Guy and Rich at the Biathlon range

Energized by our unexpected detour, we made a final surge to the end of New Brunswick. We couldn't keep our eyes off the hills of the Gaspé Peninsula across the bay, yet our cameras could not capture how imposing they appeared. After all these days of cycling, it was exciting to cross the bridge into Quebec Province. Somehow we felt like we'd finally arrived.

View of Gaspe Peninsula
Rich crossing into Quebec
We made it to Quebec!

For a day that seemed to start out on the wrong foot, it decidedly took a turn for the better. Just when I least expected it, adventure came our way.

 

Embracing Life

I shouldn’t still be writing posts about skiing.  We have a cycling trip coming up in just over two weeks, and by now I’d planned to blog about our route, our plans and preparations.  But the snow just doesn’t stop coming.  And my husband, Rich, is all about embracing it.  He figures we will probably never see another winter as long as this in our lifetime.  (And part of me sincerely hopes so!)

So today when I saw a video on Facebook of the Piston Bully grooming the Birkie trails, we both had the same reaction – Let’s go!  With Rich in his first week of retirement, that’s all it took.  What luxury to be able to be so spontaneous.  So off we went.

With the latest snowstorm missing Duluth, it seemed silly to be loading up skis and gear surrounded by brown ground.  But as we neared Hayward, snow was in abundance.  The trees were draped in it, and a good 14″ lay on the ground.  And sure enough, at the Birkie trailhead at 00, we found 5k of groomed trails.

What more can I say?  I think photos tell the rest of the story better than words can.

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Molly at the Birkie trailhead at 00

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Molly and Rich on the Birkie trail – May 2

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Schussing uphill… Skis a bit sticky, Rich?

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It’s never too late to work on technique!

May Day Ski Race

Yes, that’s right – a Nordic ski race.  On May Day.  Where else but in Minnesota?

The Duluth Cross-Country Ski Club holds weekly Wednesday night ski races throughout the winter.  And Snowflake Nordic Ski Center has continued to groom its trails throughout the long tail to this winter season.  So despite the recent warm-up, the packed snow continues to cling to its trails.  That made the perfect opportunity to add one more race to the Wednesday night series.  It was too goodIMG_9889 to miss!

Rich and I arrived early and skied the trails beforehand to see just what we were getting ourselves into.  Despite the bare patches near the warming house, once in the woods, the trails were surprisingly credible.  They had been freshly groomed (I really couldn’t tell) and grassy sections 466169_10201094940278975_87615926_owere taped off, forcing us to zigzag between trail sections.  The snow ranged from soft and mushy to icy and slushy.  And there were a few water hazards…  But it was all part of this most unique race experience.

At 6:30 the racers gathered for the 466606_10201094932598783_648904343_ostart.  It was the largest turnout they’d had all season!  It’s amazing what a bit of novelty can do.  The mood was festive and jovial.  How could we not be in a good mood?

902779_10201094942319026_1436393036_oAs we skied, whoops and hollers could be heard reverberating through the woods.  I added my own noisy yelps when trying to skirt a particularly deep puddle.  With a sickening sucking noise, my foot became mired in the icy water with my ski inexorably anchored by deep mushy snow.  I managed to extricate it with great difficulty, only to have the other foot succumb!  Apparently I just didn’t have the right technique – other more accomplished competitors skied right through.466200_10201094939278950_849080946_o

It’s not everyone who can say they skied in a race on May Day.  Nor ski 7 out of the last 12 months, which is what we did this year.  In Minnesota, when you’re given snow, you just have to ski.

Never Say Never

I said I was done skiing for the season.  I even put my boots away.  But when I went out for a walk to take pictures of the deep new snow early this morning, and found myself shoveling the sidewalk just to prolong my time outside, I knew I was going to renege on that statement.

My inspiration was Rich’s “epic ski” last week.  Taking advantage of the road closings for building the Lakewalk tunnel, he was able to ski from home down to Brighton Beach and on up the Scenic Highway to the pumping station.  I was so envious!  So I set out to recreate his journey.

My timing was perfect – the sun began to emerge just as I set out, which greatly enhanced the scenery.  The snow was still firm and not yet slushy, and few cars had ventured down the unplowed roads on my route.  Lake Superior picked up the blue hues of the clearing sky, and big rollers brought waves splashing up onto the rocks on the shoreline.  The views were glorious.

My revery was abruptly interrupted upon reaching the Scenic Highway to find it neatly plowed down to the pavement.  The detours had been changed, and so were my plans.  But it wasn’t the kind of day for disappointment.  Brighton Beach was every bit as entrancing on my return trip.

By then I was on a roll.  So I stretched my return trip to take in the Lester-Amity ski trails.  The city has long since stopped grooming the ski trails, but earlier skiers had generously left good classic tracks for me to follow.  When those ended, I did my share by tracking the next loop of the system.  The trees were heavily laden with snow, bending deeply over the trail and occasionally snapping under the weight.  Even at this late stage of spring, I had to admit it was a winter wonderland.

I’m glad my resolve didn’t hold.  Just see what I would have missed!

[Click on any photo to view as a slideshow.]

Goodbye Skis, Hello Bicycle!

It’s not often one can ski and bicycle in the same day.  The abundance of great snow in Duluth has left the ski trails amply covered and still holding up well.  And the recent warm weather has cleared the shoulders on the North Shore Scenic Drive enough for good cycling.  I just couldn’t resist the opportunity.

IMG_9755 trimmedFirst the ski, late morning.  Spring skiing is tricky.  Timing is everything – too early and the snow is hard and crusty, with deep frozen ruts made by yesterday’s skiers who were out when the snow was soft and pliable.  Too late and the snow is like sticky mush, and very slow.  I went out somewhere in between, which is the scariest.  In the shadows, it was slick and fast.  But as soon as my skis hit sun-warmed snow, they came to a screeching halt.  My body wanted to keep going…  It was a challenge, all right, but the warm air, bright sunshine, and still-abundant snow made it worth the effort.  And to think it’s almost April!

IMG_0575 trimmedIn the afternoon, I headed out on my bike.  Again, timing is important – waiting for the temperatures to warm to a reasonable level is critical.  This afternoon the conditions were perfect – not a cloud in the sky, warm sunshine, and not an ounce of wind.  Cycling up the North Shore was like sailing along.  And the views were outstanding.  The ice formations along the shoreline provided such interest and variety as I traveled along, and the rare calm water produced beautiful reflections of the shore.  It felt great to be on my bike again.

Clearly this was transition day.  The exhilaration of riding my bike was just what I needed to let go of winter, say goodbye to skiing for now, and embrace the next season’s activities.  Hello bicycle – have I got plans for you!