Love those Lupine

Bluebonnets of TexasNot being much of a gardener, I find wildflowers especially appealing.  They voluntarily spring up along the roadside, in the woods and wherever they find a hospitable habitat.  No cultivating required.  This spring we planned our whole bike tour around the bluebonnets of Texas, and reveled in the seas of blue we found populating the Hill Country.  The petite Molly in Bluebonnetsspiky plants were as irresistible as they were attractive.  We never grew tired of seeing them.

That was in early April.  At the time, northern Minnesota was steeped in mud season, not even close to spring yet.  But that was actually to our benefit, because we were able to experience spring all over again when we returned home in mid-May.

Lupine near the North ShoreWith the arrival of June came the return of one of our favorite wildflowers, the lupine.  These tall spiny flowers grace the North Shore, mainly in shades of purple with occasional pink and white blossoms sprinkled in between.  It’s no accident that they bear a strong resemblance to the bluebonnets – those Texas beauties are actually of the “genus Lupinus” so belong to the same plant family.  What I find especially humorous is that in this case the Minnesota version far bigger than that of Texas.  While bluebonnets grow to be 12-24 inches tall, our lupine reach 1-4 feet high.  Not everything is bigger and better in Texas!

Molly with lupine in our yardAlthough technically considered an invasive species, and therefore shunned by purists, we chose to introduce lupine to the natural (read “wild”)  Lupine in our yardlandscape of our yard.  Rich painstakingly harvested seeds last fall and sowed them among our grasses.  This spring they actually came up, and the initial blossoms are now gracing the view from our windows.  The hope is that they will increase and multiply, some day yielding our own personal field of purple rocket flowers.  Whether large or small, Texas or Minnesota, we love those lupine.

 

 

Recalculating…

What else would you want do for a 60th birthday but go on a 60 mile bike ride?  When my friend Myra proposed it, her birthday idea seemed totally reasonable.  Perfect, really.  Clearly we think alike.  It’s great having a friend as committed to fit activity and the outdoors as I am.

60th Birthday Cycling RouteIt was a great day for cycling.  Warm inland and as always, cooler by the lake.  We chose a route that started on Seven Bridges Road, going up, up, up to start and then leveling out once we were on top away from the lake.  The farther we went the less traffic we had on the roads, and we were able to cycle and talk as we usually do.  Puttering along was fine with us.

Once back down at the lake, we stopped for a bit of a break and refreshments at the Mocha Moose, always a favorite of mine.  Feeling good, we continued down the shore.  Until just past Knife River.  There we were stopped cold – Myra’s rear tire was flat.  She had no spare, and although I had one that would fit and the necessary tools, she was reluctant to even try to change it.  I couldn’t blame her, neither of us has done it on our own.  Surprisingly calm and unruffled by it all, Myra proposed the only solution.  I would bike the 13 miles home to get my car and return to rescue her.  Meanwhile, she’d continue walking her bike.

With a tailwind and mostly flat terrain I fairly flew down the Scenic highway.  The scenery barely registered in my brain as I zoomed along, and at one point I happened to notice was was going 18 miles an hour.  After all, I was on a mission.  As I approached the intersection with the expressway, with just a mile to go, there was Myra – cycling toward me!  Huh?  Someone had come along and offered to transport her home with her bike, and rather than stopping to inform me as they passed on the road, she told them, “Oh no, I want to freak her out!”  She certainly did.

Myra - on her second bikeIt never occurred to either of us to abandon our ride, in light of the circumstances.  Myra has a fleet of bikes, so she had just hopped on another one and we were good to go.  We headed back up the shore nearly to the scene of the flat and back again, to perfectly complete the 60 mile ride – for Myra anyway.  I logged a total of 71.

It wasn’t quite what we’d planned, but there was little harm in the outcome.  In fact, it delayed us less than an hour and solved the problem of where to cycle for our final 13 miles.  It just took a bit of recalculating.

Happy cyclists

Sunrise Celebration

No one would accuse Rich and me of being too conventional. Traditional, maybe, but for a couple who has spent months together on bicycles, think skiing a 50k race is fun and get excited about finding a yurt available for the night, doing things outside the norm is par for the course. So celebrating our 32nd wedding anniversary shortly after sunrise was a good fit.

The weather was perfect. It was one of those cool spring mornings with a clear blue sky and the promise of a quick warm-up as the sun gained height. Our destination was the lakefront in Two Harbors, starting with the lake side trail north of the lighthouse. The easy path followed the shoreline, which proved to be surprisingly varied. Unlike the smooth rocks on the edge of Duluth, this area looked more like the lava remains of a volcano. Dark bumpy rocks formed an otherworldly surface, pocked with puddles reflecting the deep blues the sky. The lake was uncharacteristically quiet, resulting in a peaceful ambiance. I knew we were right on the edge of town, but it felt like we were in the middle of the wilderness.

Two Harbors shoreline
Rounding the corner the harbor came into view.  Inland was the lighthouse that now hosts B&B guests.  What I hadn’t noticed before was the pilot house also on the grounds.  Two Harbors lighthouse B&BThe Two Harbors waterfront has the advantage of being a very compact package.  All within a short walk, we could enjoy the lighthouse at the end of the breakwater, two boats loading at the ore docks and the Edna G historic tugboat.  Each view was especially appealing in the morning sunlight.  And I couldn’t help but think what a great place it would be to bring the grandkids to explore.
Two Harbors lighthouse Rich and Two Harbors ore docksMolly and Edna G tugboatWhen we’d exhausted our fascination with the waterfront and found a few birds for Rich, we headed to the Vanilla Bean Restaurant for our finale.  It’s a spot we’ve come to enjoy since moving back to Duluth, and we deemed the changes made by the new owners to be good improvements.  I heartily enjoyed the French Toast made with cranberry wild rice bread.  We weren’t the only ones to give it a stamp of approval, as the place was packed on a weekday morning.

It was a full and pleasant morning and we were home by 10 am.  Who says an anniversary has to involve going out for dinner?  We much preferred our sunrise celebration.

Instant Spring

At first it was hard to believe the thermometer.  And to overcome the months-long habit of layering on the outdoor clothes.  After two days of sweltering through my run with too many too heavy clothes, however, it was finally sinking in.  It really was warm out!

With temperatures well below zero just days ago, and beautiful cross-country ski conditions still a vivid memory, we can be forgiven our inability to grasp the sudden change in season.  But it didn’t take long for all of Duluth to head outdoors to enjoy the transformation.  And I love watching the parade.

The Lakewalk is virtually a highway of pedestrians.  Dog walkers, high school track teams, runners and baby strollers are in abundance in colorful garb.  Nobody seems to mind sloshing through the inevitable puddles or crossing the streams that flow over the pavement.  The faces I pass are all smiles.

Brighton Beach is populated with folks of all ages, taking in the rapidly shrinking ice formations on the lake.  Close to shore there are still remainders of the ice shards that were once piled so high, now surrounded by watery pools on top of the rapidly melting ice.  Further out, the ice is turning darker as it thins.  Plenty of ice houses attest to the fishermen’s belief that it is still viable.  But you’ll never find me venturing out there.

Brighton Beach melting iceOpen water is rapidly advancing toward Duluth.  While Lake Superior reached over 90% ice coverage just a few weeks ago, it opened up quickly with the wind and sun.  The edge of the ice field has now retreated all the way down to Brighton Beach.

Last week the thought of the Coast Guard ice breaker beginning its duty on Monday seemed outlandish.  By the time we saw her out plowing through the ice, it seemed perfectly natural.  One could already imagine spotting boats out on the horizon heading for the Aerial Bridge.

At 57 degrees this afternoon, I just North Shore ice melthad to hop on my bike and head up the North Shore.  I was hardly alone.  Cyclists were whizzing up and down the Scenic Highway, exchanging friendly waves and nodding.  Sure the shoulders were still full of gravel, but it was a small price to pay for the vast pleasure.  Like the rest of them, I too was grinning and loving it.

Of course, everyone knows this is Duluth.  Winter isn’t over until it’s over.  But I did happen to stop in a ski shop this afternoon, and was startled to find the wall of cross country skis barren and empty.  All put away to make room for bicycles and other summer gear.  It was instant spring in there too.

 

Fire and Ice

There are a number of factors that go into selecting the route for my morning run.  How fierce is the wind?  What direction is it coming from?  Do I want to do hills or not?  Has the lakewalk been plowed?  Is there likely to be ice melt?  How far do I want to go?  All are serious considerations.

Today, the deciding factor was something entirely different.  Will there be a good sunrise?  An affirmative answer to that question trumped all others.  I would head up the shore.

I was a bit early for Brighton Beach.  The colors were pale and uninspiring as I passed along the jumble of ice crumpled against that shore.  So I pressed on.  I was grateful that the shoulders on Scenic 61 were less snowy than yesterday, and when no cars were in sight I admit to trespassing on the road where the tire tracks cleared the pavement.

Lake Superior sunrise 1It wasn’t long before the colors began to deepen.  First a brilliant red, followed by fiery orange. Generally, I don’t stop for anything on my run.  But after what seemed an eternity of gray cloudy days, I was prepared for this early morning display.  My super compact camera was snuggled into the back pocket of my tights. Lake Superior sunrise 2

As the sun rose, the colors lessened, but I was intrigued with the way they reflected off the pockets of water trapped between passages of ice.  I could see it better with my eyes than the camera could, but it was still worth a shot.  Another trip across the road to snap a picture.

The whole display was short lived.  Before long the clouds crowded in and obliterated the horizon, snuffing out the light show.  But it still lit up my day.  I carried the spectacle with me for miles, and it warmed me from within.  There’s nothing like a good sunrise to make all feel right with the world.

How lucky I am to live in such beautiful surroundings.  Not many people get to witness fire and ice in the same sunrise.

The Search for Snow

It’s winter all right. But any more, that doesn’t guarantee snow. Thinking back on growing up in Duluth evoke memories of high snowbanks, snow days off school, building igloo-like forts and constant snow cover throughout the winter months. If there were brown Christmases or sparse snow years, my memory has conveniently deleted the images.

This snow season started with great promise. Early delivery of a decent snowfall in early November and cold temperatures to hold it on the ground seemed to bode well for the winter. But fickle weather with tropical warmth rapidly erased that bountiful jump start. And still we wait for replacement snow.

Near Caribou TrailIf the snow won’t come to us, our only option is to seek it elsewhere. The day after Christmas, brought our first success, finding beautiful fresh snow inland from Lutsen. Driving along the narrow road, hushed by the snow covering and flanked by trees laden with deep new snow on the branches was heavenly. It was even better getting out and hiking in it, blanketed by silence.

Onion River RoadFinding snow for cross-country skiing requires additional ingenuity. Returning up the North Shore to Tofte brought us to Onion River Road, which proved high enough above Lake Superior to hold a recent snowfall. Prior experience has taught us that the flat roadbed absent of brush and other undergrowth along with excellent grooming provides the first good skiing of the season. It held true once more, and we logged 22k each on that stretch of snow.

Bonita PointNew Years Day found us in cabin country, north of Grand Rapids. Although the snow cover wasn’t deep, the large expanse of white lake gave the illusion of real winter. Snowshoes were certainly unnecessary, but substituting warm boots and bracing against the wind to hike along the lakeshore was a decent substitute for that winter activity.Deer Lake

It’s not over until it’s over. Up here in the Northland we have plenty of winter months left.  But until the ultimate snow storm comes, the search for snow continues.

An Empty Nest Christmas

We knew this day was coming.  It just caught us Christmas stockingsoff guard when this turned out to be the year.  All of our children were spending Christmas with their “other” families – in-laws or almost-in-laws.  Ours was to be an empty nest Christmas.  Only two stockings to hang for Santa this year.

It’s all part of the natural progression.  Kids grow up.  They get married.  They live their own lives.  We are a close family, but we also know they need to spread their wings and make new traditions.  So we set about doing the same.

We realized that adhering to the usual routine would be a guaranteed path to feeling lonely.  So we decided to take ourselves away for Christmas.  A destination Christmas, if you will.  Making reservations at Lutsen Resort on the North Shore felt right, and we looked forward to spending the night in the old style lodge.

The original plan was to spend Christmas afternoon cross-country skiing.  When the snow failed us, we changed it to hiking.  But Mother Nature nixed that idea as well, when we found the trails too icy to navigate safely.  It wasn’t too hard to accept extra time in front of the big fireplace in the lodge, and I soon found myself nodding off over my book then chatting with other guests by the Christmas tree.

336-Birds-365-Christmas-Creek

Lutsen Resort – photo by Rich Hoeg

The only reservation left for the Christmas buffet dinner was at 8:00pm – an outrageously late time to eat for this couple, but this adventure was all about change, so we accepted it graciously.  With plenty of time to linger, we each drifted outside.  Rich was eager to try out his new camera, and got some great night-time shots.  I had a bonfire to myself on the beach Christmas dinner at Lutsen Resortwith its mesmerizing flames and the sound of the Lake Superior waves lapping on the shore.  It was easy to feel all the holiday tension slip away in the beauty of that scene.  Topping off our evening with a festive Christmas dinner was a fitting finale.

Morning found me running along the lake shore and Rich birding.  What else is new?  But Rich came back all excited and soon dragged me up the Caribou Trail to 337-Birds-365-Caribou-Trailfind…  SNOW!  The farther inland we drove, the deeper the layers on the trees.  Finding a road designated for foot travel only, we took a hike through the winter wonderland.  It was silent and beautiful, yet another opportunity to drink in the peace and shed life’s cares.  Another magical moment of our unconventional Christmas.

Within 15 minutes of reaching home, our children and grandchildren began to arrive.  The house soon filled with the bustle, noise and activity of three generations.  Our family Christmas celebration began.  And our nest was no longer empty.  It was worth the wait.

Tag Along Photography

I just don’t have what it takes.  The patience.  The persistence.  The hours of practice, research, testing, trial and error.  Not to mention standing nearly motionless out in the cold.  From watching Rich, I can see just what dedication it requires.  And I am fully prepared to admit that I’m not cut out to be a serious photographer.  But that doesn’t stop me from enjoying taking pictures.

Recently, Rich was hot on the trail of another photography idea.  He’d worked it all out.  The crescent moon would be setting at just the right angle to be seen over the Two Harbors waterfront.  His plan was to photograph the lighthouse at the end of the pier, along with the setting moon.  (Now do you see the extent of his efforts?)  So despite single digit temperatures that promised to fall further in the evening hours, he convinced me to head out with him for this marvelous adventure.

In theory it was a great idea.  Rich’s calculations were accurate.  The only problem was the lighthouse had no spotlight, and hence was invisible.  Part of me wanted to rejoice and head home, as the wind was stronger than we expected and infiltrated my heavy down jacket and warm gloves.  But the photography session was salvaged by an incoming ore boat.

It moved ever so slowly through the black night.  Watching and waiting for the boat to line up with the moon, my fingers reached ever increasing degrees of iciness.  And yet the scene was captivating.  The boat’s lights twinkled over the water, and occasionally big spotlights swept out IMG_0228across the liquid expanse as it progressed toward the ore docks.  I was too cold to think very hard about what settings I should be using, or to try different techniques.  That would be too much like the photographer I profess not to be.  But I still snapped away, hoping I was close.  The result requires a bit of imagination to see the boat, but I do rather like the sparkling effect.

Settling into its berth at the IMG_0233ore docks, the boat’s lighted posterior lined up nicely with the dropping moon.  Without that description, it would probably be unrecognizable.  But I still thought it was picturesque.

That was enough for me.  A beautiful evening.  Chilled to the bone.  A floating spectacle.  Ready for home.  Oh, but wait – another boat was heading our way!  How could we be so lucky?  With the moon nearly down and the ship still a mere speck, it would be a long wait.  Fortunately, even Rich was ready to call it a night.  We took a pass on that one.

No, I’ll never make it as a photographer.  I’ll stick to wrangling with words, thank you.  Writing is my gig.  But that doesn’t stop me from tagging along and snapping a few pix.  Just for fun.

Nature’s Imagery

What to show out of town guests?  That’s not hard when we live in such a beautiful area.  With visitors here this week, it was an easy choice to drive up the North Shore and share a few of our wonderful state parks with them.

When we planned this visit, we assumed we would be walking the trails at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park in crisp fall weather with leaves underfoot.  Winter’s early arrival changed the context but did not deter us from our plan.  We just needed boots and a few more layers of clothes.  There were few other visitors in the park and we enjoyed exploring the lakeside trails with their view of the lighthouse.  Snow was everywhere, and it was tricky walking on the pebble beach.  Some rocks were frozen together in clumps, others harbored hidden ice, the rest were loose, creating rickety footing.  As much as I love the shoreline, I was relieved to return to the trail.

With plenty of pictures of Split Rock in my albums, I searched for other sights of interest. It wasn’t long before I became fascinated with the shapes and patterns created by nature all around me.  Soon I found plenty of images to capture.IMG_0186 IMG_0179 IMG_0177 Moving on to Gooseberry Falls State Park, we found frozen waterfalls.  I never guessed that the falls would be encrusted in a frosty facade by November 19!  We could hear the water moving under the ice formations, and enjoyed the drippy icicles left on the surface.  Once again, I found plenty of material for my study of nature’s details.IMG_0196IMG_0201 IMG_0200Our final stop was back in Duluth.  We arrived at Canal Park in time to see the Walter J McCarthy Jr slip through the piers and under the bridge.  Evidence of its trip through the frigid lake was plain to see, with its ice encrusted bow.  Mother Nature’s study in white. IMG_0206No matter how many times I visit the North Shore, there is always more to see and enjoy.  This time it was a matter of looking more closely instead of viewing the big picture.  That’s where I found nature’s imagery, in ice and snow.

Sharing the North Shore

NShore Day 5

Day 5 – Beaver Bay to Duluth MN, 52 miles

It seemed most appropriate that we spent this final day of the Minnesota North Shore Tour with Bike Tour Vacations following the tour’s namesake.  It’s a stretch I’ve done many times, and is very familiar.  But cycling with a group who had never been on the North Shore before gave it a whole new twist.  It was fun to re-experience the sights and lake views through the eyes of those seeing it for the first time.

Starting in Beaver Bay was a treat as we had immediate access to the longest completed section of Gitchi-Gami State Trail, a wonderful bike trail on the North Shore.  It afforded us hassle-free cycling away from the highway.  In addition, it was lined with wildflowers blossoming in brilliant colors.  It was interesting to note the difference in season compared to inland from the lake.  Berries were just beginning to ripen, and we still found fireweed and a few remaining lupine due to the cooler climate.

Photo Aug 01, 6 54 02 PMIt’s also worth nothing that our numbers swelled to 13 for this portion of the tour as we were joined by Jim’s sister, her husband and another couple.  They were a welcome addition to our lively group.IMG_5052

We had many stops today due to the numerous sights on that stretch of the North Shore.  First was Split Rock Lighthouse – a must-see for any tourist.  Personally, I enjoy being there before the park opens for tours to beat the crowds.

IMG_5055 IMG_5057 IMG_5058Next up was Gooseberry Falls.  I’ve taken so many photos of the iconic falls that I felt compelled to try a different view.  This is how it looked from the bike path below the highway bridge.

IMG_5083Everyone was required to stop at Silver Cliffs, to take in the view and imagine the original highway that clung to the cliffs on this stretch of the North Shore.  I never realized before reading the signs that it has the longest views on the Minnesota portion of the North Shore.

IMG_5087IMG_5089 All day long we leapfrogged each other, collected at sights and exclaimed over the beautiful weather.  Our final stopping point was for refreshment at the Mocha Moose on Scenic 61.  Then we pushed on to the end, finishing up on the Duluth Lakewalk.  It was a glorious end to our 5-day tour.  And I was ever so pleased that the other guests found the North Shore to be as special as I do.  Sharing with them was a fitting finish to the trip.