Tag Archives: Snow

Of Summits and Snowflakes

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With my stay at Snow Mountain Ranch drawing to a close, I wanted to make the most of the time I had left. My final day of work I was scheduled for an afternoon shift, which left me plenty of time to get in a decent ski earlier in the day. There was only one major trail that I had not yet skied, so imagine my delight to find that it had been groomed that very morning. Others had broken trail with back country skis, but that didn’t appeal to me, and this was the first time it had been groomed in two months. I set my heart on completing the trail.

My first hurdle was the advice I received from more experienced skiers in the Nordic Center. They warned me of the steep terrain and difficulty of the climb. I hadn’t fully grasped the fact that this trail rose 2,000 feet in elevation! Learning that I didn’t plan to bring any food and drink, they pressed a granola bar on me and I left with some doubts.

When I reached the turnoff for the Blue Ridge Trail, it did indeed climb. But I decided that I’d pursue each leg of the switchbacks and go as far as I could. As it turns out, the trail did climb relentlessly, but the climbs were not steep. And as long as I stopped periodically (okay, frequently) to catch my breath, I was able to continue. To further spur me along, the higher I got, the better the views. Feasting my eyes on at least 180 degrees of mountain ranges was inspiring, and further excuse to pause along the way. The grooming was impeccable with a firm surface despite the warming sun, and I relished the fact that my ski tracks were the first ones there. Reaching the summit was almost an anticlimax, as there was no sign to commemorate my accomplishment, nor a clear peak to the mountain at 10,670 ft. Even the selfie photo I took to show me at the summit really doesn’t prove much of anything – but I knew I’d made it.

The return trip was a glorious ride down. I was tired but thrilled I’d completed the whole trail and happy that I reached the summit. And that granola bar did taste good at the top.

On my final day, I set off with two friends for a women’s snowshoe hike. Fran has been coming to Snow Mountain Ranch as a volunteer for years, and offered to lead the hike. Patti was new to snowshoeing, so we were a motley crew of experience but eager for a day out. Undeterred by the steady snowfall, we donned our layers of clothes, snowshoes and packs with food, water, extra clothing and emergency supplies.

From Grand Lake we took the East Inlet Trail, which immediately led us into Rocky Mountain National Park. Lacking trail markers, we were glad that we could see vague indentations from previous snowshoers. New snow was piling up quickly, and our view was curtailed to our immediate surroundings. But the beauty of the heavy woods draped in snow made up for the mountains we were missing in the distance. The trail was fairly flat, following a branch of the Colorado River for a while, and meandering through the woods. Progress was slow but satisfying, allowing us to drink in the quiet of the woods.

With an out-and-back trail, the inevitable question is when to turn around? It always feels good to reach a specific destination, and Fran had one in mind. As soon as we saw the large rock formation, we knew we’d reached it. The trail narrowed along a ledge and seemed to whither away with the rock looming overhead. We all agreed it was the perfect stopping point, not wanting to test our skills scampering around the end of the rock. Taking a short time out for a snack and drink of water, we began to retraced our steps. With temperatures hovering right about freezing, the falling snow was saturating our clothing and gloves. Keeping moving was the only way to fend off the resulting chill.

Although Fran had frequently seen moose and other wildlife on that trail, we saw not a single critter. Even animal tracks were in short supply. We were the sole inhabitants of the woods, or so it felt. But that was okay. It was the camaraderie that was best about the hike, spending time with new friends and sharing an adventure.

Yes, I think I did well. Both outings were satisfying in different ways, and brought closure to my stay. And I have left plenty more to explore, hoping we’ll be back next year.

Snowshoeing Take 2

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With a late shift for work there was plenty of time for a snowshoe expedition, so Dee and I set out once again to tackle the snow. In contrast to our last outing, this time the temperatures were mild, the wind low and the sun was shining. Much nicer!

We chose the Waterfall Trail, which started out along the ski trails then ventured off through a valley and eventually rose up the hillsides. Some intrepid backcountry skiers had decided to ski the route, so it was easy to find our way alongside their tracks. With the sun beating down, we quickly shed layers, hats and gloves as we grew warm while trudging uphill. The blue sky made for a dramatic backdrop to the scenery, enhancing the experience.

As we neared the waterfall, we could hear it trickling down. It wasn't a big opening in the snow, but the water was definitely flowing. It left icy formations around the edges of the snowy hole and a pleasant sound in the otherwise silent forest.

Although the clouds began to gather and eventually the sky became completely overcast, we decided to extend our walk to do the Coyote Tooth trail. That one had not been used since the last snowfall, so we were relieved to find that it was very clearly marked. We did a lot of climbing, but whenever we reached openings in the trees we were rewarded by expansive views. It was fun to see the ski trails on the opposite hillside, as if on a map in front of us. Eventually we were able to see out over the whole valley. Had it not been snowing in the distance, the mountain views would have been stunning.

Our final descent was a series of switchbacks to make our way back down the steep hillside. The actual distance we had covered was disappointingly small, but it didn't come close to measuring the amount of effort we'd expended tromping around in the snow all morning. It felt good to see the car in the distance and complete our trek. Another successful snowshoeing adventure under our belts.

 

This is more like it!

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Today was the best skiing yet.  This is what I came for!  With 4″ new snow overnight, and the groomers out setting new track on all the trails, the conditions were glorious.  Add to that mostly sunny skies and temperatures that ultimately reached 41 degrees – it just doesn’t get any better than that.  Even the wind had lessened in the morning when I first went out.

My favorite trail of the morning was one we skied on our first day here.  But the new snow not only softened the formerly crusty trail but draped the trees in snow and muffled all sound.  It was a long but beautiful climb up the mountainside, and a wonderful ride all the way back down.  It was the kind of day that made me want to stay out all day.  But lunch was calling to me.  As I headed back to the Nordic Center, the winds had picked up significantly (of course!), and they blew me all the way down the valley.  I never knew I could ski so fast!

DSCN0126DSCN0131 straightenedFor my afternoon ski, I decided to try out a pair of Atomic Skintec waxless classic skis.  I’ve been lusting after them for two years, wanting a pair but unwilling to swallow the high price tag.  Since volunteers can rent equipment for free, it was the perfect opportunity to take them out for a test run to see if I really liked them.

DSCN0134By that time, the wind had done quite a number of the trails.  Where I had pristine grooming in the morning, the classic tracks were often filled with new snow or drifted over entirely.  But when I could hide from the wind, I found fast firm tracks.  It was a great opportunity to give the skis a full workout.  Where the warm afternoon sun beat down on the snow, it was beginning to soften but we did notice one big difference out here.  The air is so dry that even warm soft snow is not as sticky as back home, instead holding that powdery feel at a much higher temperature.

And the verdict on the skis?  I loved them!  I don’t know if that is good news or bad.  I’m now left still wishing for a pair of my own, looking for a good sale and justification for the purchase…

When I envisioned our stay at Snow Mountain Ranch, this is the kind of day I expected.  Plenty of fresh snow, beautiful trails and multiple excursions out skiing in a day.  Yes, this is more like it.

Snowshoeing up the Mountainside

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Neither of us would have gone on our own.  And it wouldn’t have been wise.  But when my co-worker and I put our heads together at lunch, we prodded each other into going snowshoeing.  Never mind the wind and blowing snow – we just had to get out and do something.

Hoping to escape the open valley, we drove up to higher ground and the starting point of the snowshoe trail up Nine Mile Mountain.  The wind was still howling, but we convinced ourselves it was better up there, strapped on our snowshoes and set out.

IMG_0694 croppedNow many times snowshoe trails are so well traveled that boots are enough, and in fact snowshoes are more of a hindrance than a help.  That was not the case for us.  The mountain was covered in deep fresh snow, with no prior evidence of a trail.  Fortunately, the route was well marked with tree markers when we went through woodsy bits and yellow posts when we were out in the open.  It made me wonder just how tall those posts needed to be to still be showing above the top of the snow.

It was a long slog up, but we were glad for the warmth it generated, and stopped frequently to turn and look at the view.  It was a gray and white world out there, but beautiful in its own way.  And despite the dark clouds, the snow was glaringly white all around us.

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There is something wonderful about snowshoeing.  It’s not the same competitive sport that skiing is – at least for me.  It’s peaceful and quiet, with plenty of time to reflect.  Especially when treading on silent new snow.  We each forged ahead at our own pace, carefully keeping each other in sight and reconnecting after short intervals.IMG_0703

When we reached the top, there was nothing to tell us we’d made it except the absence of additional trail markers.  We had a marvelous view of the valley and the whole campus of Snow Mountain Ranch.  We could see the Winter Park downhill ski slopes off in the distance.  The world was at our feet.

We flew back down the mountain in half the time it took us to reach the top.  It was easier having a recent trail to follow, but even in the short time since we’d traveled IMG_0702up our footsteps were entirely erased by the wind in spots.

We finished with a sense of accomplishment.  With the brisk wind still fresh on our faces, we were glad we’d made the effort.  Despite the weather, we tackled the mountain.

 

Whiteout!

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It all started a couple nights ago. We’d gone to Happy Hour at a nearby XC resort with the other volunteers, and afterwards we stepped outside into a world of swirling snow.  It was a harrowing drive back with huge snowflakes flying at us, illuminated by our headlights.  The car was stifling inside with the defroster pouring out heat, still unable to keep up with the ice forming on the windshield.  It wasn’t a long drive but it sure felt that way, and we were greatly relieved when we crept down the entrance to Snow Mountain Ranch.

DSCN0119For the last two days the wind has been relentless. The new snow on the ground is easily whipped into deep drifts and obliterates the surrounding scenery. With gusts up to 40 mph yesterday it wasn’t a day for outdoor recreation. In fact, the wind shut down the entire Nordic ski trail system, wiping out the trails and tracks. The groomers will be a starting from scratch to recreate the trails and set new track.

When I woke up this morning, all I could see from my window was white. Since it was my day off, I’d signed up for a snowshoe hike. It didn’t look like the kind of weather I wanted to venture out in, and I was saved the embarrassment of wimping out on the event by having the organizer cancel it. Apparently he agreed with my assessment of the weather.

Despite that grim start to the day, the sun has come out. It’s quit a tease, making it look nice outside and tempting to reconsider some outdoor activity. But the wind continues to howl and snow blows horizontally outside the window. One look at the distant mountaintops reveals what could be coming our way – more snow and clouds. For now, I’ll continue to hang out by the fire in the lodge.

According to volunteers who have been coming here for years this weather is unusual. It does get plenty windy here, but these strong winds for such a long duration are not the norm. So we can hope that they will subside. It’s been a challenging winter everywhere this year. I guess here in the mountain valley that means wind and whiteouts.

XC Skiing Mountain Style

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The bulk of my cross-country skiing experience has been in Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan’s UP.  I have to say, I think we have some great trails and beautiful settings in our neck of the woods.  So I was very curious to see just how different it would be to ski out in the Rocky Mountains.

Snow Mountain Ranch is nestled in an expansive valley up in the mountains above Denver.  They boast 100 kilometers of ski trails right on campus, and a world-class Nordic Center.  It didn’t take me long to begin exploring.   I think what surprised me most was that many of the trails are out in the open in the base of the valley.  Used to skiing on heavily wooded trails, it’s a different feeling being so exposed.  Unfortunately, the openness is largely due to the advances of the Mountain Pine Beetle, which has decimated the trees in this area of the Rockies, leaving wide open patches everywhere.  Sadly, it is a native bug normally held in check by cold winters, but milder weather over the last decade has allowed it to flourish and kill most of the pine trees.

After the devastatingly cold winter in Duluth this year and record-breaking string of sub-zero weather, it feels like spring out here with temperatures reaching the 40s during the day.  I have piles of warm ski clothes I don’t need – not that I’m complaining!  But with the temperature swings come high winds, and they blow without mercy down the empty valley.  Skiing on the flats feels akin to skiing uphill against the resistance of the wind.  The wind does a number on the trails, scraping any new snow off the top and creating drifts in unexpected areas.  Fortunately, they do groom frequently, and given the chance, I follow the most recently groomed trails.

DSCN0111But the openness does have its compensation in the form of amazing scenery.  Everywhere I look I see mountains, many of them snow covered beauties off in the distance.  The views are spectacular,   particularly when the sun shines and radiates off the snowy mountain tops.  That’s definitely a scene we don’t see out in Minnesota.DSCN0113DSCN0115

 

 

 

Personally, my favorite trails are still those in the woods.  By definition, leaving the valley means a long ascent up the mountainside, but even by a Minnesotan’s standards the grade is reasonably gradual.  Normally I would expect to fly up those hills, skating at a good clip, but at 8,705 feet above sea level the altitude puts a definitive check on my aerobic capacity.  Once at the top, I enjoy winding through both pine and deciduous forests and ultimately making my way back down again.

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Perhaps I’m biased, but I have to say that I don’t think Colorado has that much over Minnesota in its XC ski trails.  But to be fair, I’ve only sampled one trail system so far.  And there is a lot to be said for the sunny mild days and towering mountain scenery.  Maybe I should call it a draw.  And ski for another three weeks, just to verify my first impressions of mountain skiing.

Sea Caves from the Ice

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No one will argue that this has been an unusually cold winter.  We have certainly had our share of days where the temperature never deigned to approach zero.  But it does have its compensations.  For the first time in five years the sea caves in the Apostle Islands are accessible by foot, thanks to the firm ice on Lake Superior.  When stunning photos of the ice formations began to circulate, we became entranced and pledged to go.

Of course, it took over a week for the weather to cooperate, but today’s forecast looked promising, so we made plans with friends to make the trip together.  As it turns out, we nailed the timing.  Sunshine, clear blue skies, warming temperatures and little wind made for a perfect day for our hike out to the caves and viewing the ice.

IMG_3480There was no need for snowshoes or ski poles, nor any possibility of getting lost, as the trail was well trampled by many before us. We followed the edge of the lake for about a mile, with the scenery improving with each step.  Layers of rock, topped with trees high above our heads became increasingly impressive, as did the spiky icicles that flowed down the exposed edges.

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Fortunately, we chose to visit fairly early in the day, as even though it was mid-week, a large number of people were making their way out to the caves by the time we were on our return trip.  We were pleased to be there when there were still relatively few others there.

Caves abounded in the rocky coastline, ranging from small openings in the ice to huge caverns.  Inside, the ice formed fascinating patterns, hanging from the ceiling like frosty stalactite.

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Rich crawled into several openings, and was rewarded with some great photos.  But the dripping, groaning and thumping of the ice was too spooky for my tastes, so after a few such sojourns I made do with searching out unique angles – outside.

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It was a great day for lingering.  For gawking and feeling awed by the beauty of it all.  For feeling so fortunate to be able to see it for ourselves.  And for impeccable timing.  No sooner did we reach the car than the skies clouded over and the wind picked up.  The day was no longer so perfect.  But by then we were off in search of lunch.  Lucky us.

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Deep snow, silent woods

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Many times Susan and I have been snow challenged on our annual XC ski trip. Not this year. Snow was in abundance after about a foot of new snow fell on the North Shore the day before our trip. And more snow continued to fall and accumulate while we were there. Instead of navigating sparsely covered trails, we plowed through new snow still awaiting the arrival of the groomer. Or skied the latest powder into the previous set of tracks.  While it was slow going, and we didn’t cover anywhere near our usual number of kilometers, we put out plenty of effort blazing the trail. And it was so worth it.

DSCN0041There’s nothing like the silence of new snow. It slid soundlessly under our skis as we plodded along. It glistened in the sunshine, sparkling like closely packed constellations. And it muffled everything around us. Whenever I stopped, there was a total absence of sound. I could tell when a large bird flew overhead, announced by the whoosh of the air as it flapped its wings.

The trees were cloaked in heavy layers of snow. Skiing through deep pine woods was like traveling through a tunnel, with walls of snowy pine boughs. So beautiful. So peaceful.

DSCN0053The sky overhead was that deep blue that only comes with cold dry air. It made for a striking background in contrast to the snowy pines and tall willowy deciduous tree limbs.

The sunshine had a palpable warmth that was as noticeable in its absence in the cool shade as it was radiating on our faces when we stopped to soak it up. Late afternoon brought fiery sunsets with a brilliant red glow in the sky.

Yes, it was a good year for snow. And a great year for striding through the woods.

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Released!

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Despite the bravado of the last post, depicting my defiance of the cold weather and continuing to enjoy winter activities regardless, I have my limits.  And I reached them these past few days.  With temperatures reaching -25 at night with highs of only -7 IMG_3215degrees and dangerously low wind chill factors, I did the only sensible thing and retreated.  Trading my skis for trips to the swimming pool and limiting my outdoor exposure to hurrying between the front door and the car, I resolved to stay warm.

The one advantage to cold IMG_3216temperatures here in northern Minnesota is that they are nearly always accompanied by clear blue skies.  If I couldn’t be outdoors, at least the sun could cheer me up.  The hard part was that it looked so inviting.  But I knew better.  Peering out the windows, taking it in from the warmth of our cozy house was close enough for the time being.

I almost went out yesterday.  Rich, being the more macho Minnesotan, went for a short ski.  But one look at his frosty garb upon his return convinced me I was wise to hold out for another day.

So today was the day.  I watched the temperatures soar through the morning, from -16 when I first got up to +3.5 by 1:00pm.  Yes!  It was well over my threshold of reasonableness, and soon I was bound for the ski trails. Sweet release!  Never mind that the snow was still cold and slow, I was back in the elements and feeling good.  I didn’t have much company on the trails, which was no big surprise.  My poles squeaked in the frozen snow and my skis made noisy complaints traversing the skate deck, refusing to glide.  But I was out there.  And it was good.  Let the winter continue!DSCN0031DSCN0034

 

 

Why do we do this?

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Toe and hand warmers have become my best friends.  That little warm glow next to my sensitive digits is so comforting as once again I head out into the COLD.

The thermometer is hovering justDSCN0030 below zero – a veritable heat wave in this cold snap.  I pull on my long underwear, add several thermal layers, don my head wrap and head out the door with my skis.  For my first circuit around the trails I take in the sun’s golden glow on the trees and long shadows across the snow.  Despite its lack of warmth, I enjoy the ambiance and even the crisp air.  It makes me glad I made the effort to get out and ski.  During my second lap, the cold begins to infringe on my body.  First the thumbs go, followed by my fingers.  By the time I’m gliding rapidly down the final hills, my knees complain of the chill, and I have no desire to go for a third lap.  I can’t wait to reach the warmth of the house.

The Northern Lights indicators are all pointing to a high likelihood of activity.  My husband’s phone buzzes with multiple alerts informing him of the fact.  He’s intent on going out to see and photograph the display late at night, and I hesitate but decide to join him.  The temperature is already -11 and heading out of town and away from Lake Superior it continues to plummet.  Fortunately, Rich has been busy scoping out viewing points that allow us to stay in the car and watch for the northern glow.  We are happy to occupy our seats with their “bun warmers” and wait.  And wait.  Scuttled again with a lack of aurora, we decide to salvage the trip with some photo shots of stars.  It’s clear and cold, and Rich IMG_3190 trimmedcatches me doing a “warming dance” alongside my camera as it takes its long exposure on the tripod.  My photos weren’t very good, but we do get in some valuable practice, and a few good laughs, mostly at ourselves.  And I get a decent shot of the dashboard…

The temperature has finally risen into the teens, but snow is falling and the wind is fierce.  We watch the snow swirl outside our windows, note how blustery it is and think how cozy we are inside.  But we don’t stay there.  Instead, we pile into our down jackets and jump into a 4-wheel drive truck with friends to go to a UMD hockey game.  Hockey?  Me?  Okay, so I’m not really a hockey (or spectator sports) fan, but hey – it’s a social outing.  And after all, it’s indoors.

We’re Minnesotans – better yet, Duluthians.  And proud of it.  Life doesn’t stop just because it’s cold outside.  That’s why we keep the warm clothing industry in business and continue to pursue our outdoor activities.  Otherwise it would be a long, dull winter.