Tag Archives: Travel

Finding Real Winter

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My usual routine on our ski trips is to get up early and ski before breakfast.  I love being outdoors early and “earning” the big feast always served at a B&B.  But with the winds howling, snow covering the roads and temperatures dipping below zero, it seemed prudent to modify that plan!  The acres of woods surrounding the B&B presented the optimal alternative – snowshoeing.  Susan and I bundled up in our warmest clothes, strapped on our snowshoes and trundled off through the deep soft snow.  The conditions were perfect.  Untouched fluffy snow blanketed our path and clung to the tree branches all around us.  No IMG_9494matter that we lost the trail after while and meandered in a crooked route around bushes and over logs.  We were protected from the wind and enjoyed soaking up our surroundings.  Only our noses got cold, and by the time we returned to the warmth of the B&B, we were good and ready for that hearty breakfast.

By the time afternoon rolled around, the wind had moderated and temperatures rose to a balmy 4 degrees above zero.  For our final ski of the weekend, we headed back toward Bayfield and stopped at Mt. Ashwabay Ski Area.  Because it was so cold, we chose to ski separately so we could each chose our own pace and not have to linger in the cold waiting for each other.  I eagerly chose my skate skis while Susan stuck to classic skiing for this outing, but I soon regretted my decision.  Once again, the grooming reports were on the optimistic side.  We were told that the trails were all groomed, but we neglected to ask “when?”  It soon became apparent that the answer was “before the last snowfall.”  While the classic tracks were nicely packed by earlier skiers, the skate deck was marginally used and full of fresh cold (read slow) snow.  As Susan glided along the smooth tracks, I forced my skies through the deep snow, chagrined that I was barely keeping ahead of her.

IMG_9506I can’t really hold the conditions against the ski area.  After all, we’d been praying for new snow, and boy did we get it!  And they were doing their best with limited resources.  Putting that aside, the trails were very pretty and the scenery improved even more when the sun peeked out mid-afternoon.  It was the first we’d seen of the sun all weekend, and it was a welcome addition.  As we were once again skiing around a downhill ski area, it was no surprise to encounter hills – steep ones this time.  I labored up those hills, and had to skate down them to keep my momentum going.  At one point, I reached the top of the chairlift and had no choice but to snowplow down a ski hill to reach the next section of trail – an interesting twist to the route.  Nearing the end of the day, my mind must have been as numb as my body was tired when I read the sign that said “Chalet 12k.”  I knew I didn’t have it in me to go that much farther, much less beat the impending dark.  So it was with great relief that upon closer inspection I realized it actually read “Chalet 1.2k” – whew!  Enough skiing for one weekend.

Lake Superior Delivers

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The weather gods were certainly shining on us. We awoke this morning to a classic lake effect snowfall that blanketed Duluth, Wisconsin and the UP of Michigan – just what we asked for! We traipsed through several inches of new snow as we loaded the car, and left in the midst of big flakes plummeting down at a rapid pace. Real winter at last, and great start to our XC trip.

While the fresh snow erased the barren brown ground and covered the icy remnants of old snow crust, it also meant snowy slippery roads for our travels from Duluth to Ironwood. It felt like relearning winter driving again, especially as the snow plows appeared to be waiting for the snow to stop falling before clearing the roads. Lanes were impossible to see, snow billowed all around us each time a car passed by, and I had a sneaky suspicion it was slippery under all that white stuff. But we forged on, safely thankfully.

We made our requisite stop at a charming coffee shop en route, where we planned our day’s skiing over coffee and fresh muffins. The proprietor was an enthusiastic foodie, which delighted Susan no end, and on her lead we detoured to the local coop and bakery for hearty breads and baked goods. They would make a good supplement to our evening meal in front of the fire at the B&B, we reasoned.

We chose the ABR trails in Ironwood for our day’s ski, figuring they were most likely to be freshly groomed and had plenty of kilometers for us to explore. Groomed they were, but not everywhere. Skate skiers seemed to take precedence, with the classic-only trails yet to be addressed. But we decided that was a benefit, not a hindrance. Some classic trails were skier-tracked, which worked well yet still retained a feeling of remoteness. Classic-only also have the advantage of being narrower, closely lined by trees – our favorite type of trail.

Further out, we found trails that were still untouched. We could see the faint outline of the tracks set before the new snowfall, but they were otherwise blanketed in pristine new snow. It was too good to pass up! We broke trail and skied through the silent woods for several hours on those trails. No matter that it was slow going – this wasn’t about speed, it was about experience, and it was perfect. Even with 3-4″ fresh powder, there was still enough glide to make it easy going and enjoyable.

As each new section of trail beckoned to us, we ventured farther and farther out on the trail system. By the time we neared the trailhead, sunset was long behind us and the light was growing dim. The full parking lot was dotted by only a few remaining cars, and we were tired. But it was a good tired.

Thank you, Lake Superior, for another wonderful day of skiing.

Lake Effect Snow

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Come on, Lake Superior, do your stuff! Tonight I head out for my 21st annual cross-country ski trip with my friend Susan. And we’re counting on lake effect snow to resurrect the ski trails after the abysmal winter conditions of late.

Over the years, we have covered all the trails on the North Shore, taking pride in checking them off and highlighting our maps to see our progress. We have made repeat trips up the Gunflint Trail, enjoying the large trail systems there that usually have good snow coverage. We’ve skied the Birkie trails near Hayward, and ventured East, to try Maplelag and its many kilometers of skiing right outside the door.

Map of US lake effect areas around the Great Lakes – from Wikipedia

This year we chose a different destination, thinking that we had a sure bet for snow by going to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. After all, for the last 30 years Ironwood has had an average of 188″ of snow a year, with snowfall on 79 days of the winter.  And most of that is lake effect snow. The westerly winds blowing cold air over Lake Superior gather and retain moisture over the relative warmth of the lake. But once the saturated clouds hit land, they dump that moisture and voila – snow! Lots of it. Hence the area’s reputation as a snow-belt. When Minnesota and the North Shore are short on snow, the UP normally delivers.

This isn’t the first time we’ve been snow challenged on our trip. A few years back we brought along our hiking boots, and used them more than our skis. Another year, the temperatures rose so high on our first day skiing that the trails turned to sheer ice for the remainder of the weekend.  We switched to snowshoeing in the woods.  Once we encountered yellow, slushy ice crossing while crossing a lake, even in mid-winter – we were glad to reach the other shore safely. And everyone remembers last year, the winter that wasn’t.

No matter what the snow conditions, the temperatures or the accommodations, we always manage to have a good time. I’m sure this year will be no exception. But having ample snow and well groomed trails sure goes a long way toward that end. No pressure, Lake Superior.  We have faith in you.

Entering a new era

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For over 23 years we’ve driven a minivan. We’ve only had two in that time span, but they served us well, and were an integral part of our family life.

We succumbed to the trend shortly before our third child was born, and luxuriated in the spacious capacity of our new vehicle.  Shortly thereafter, we bought our cabin Up North, and the minivan was soon christened the “Northstar Navigator,” named for the lake where our cabin was situated.  As nature and outdoor lovers, we chose a cabin four hours north on a pristine lake surrounded mostly by forest land.  So we spent a great deal of quality family time together in the minivan going to and from our little haven.  That was before iPods and vans equipped with VCRs so conversation was encouraged.  Even singing.  As I sat up front, handing out sandwiches, coming up with entertainment ideas and mediating squabbles, I was queen of my brood.

It’s amazing what you can fit into a minivan.  As hard as I try to be abstemious about packing, the longer I’m at it, the more I find to bring.  And there was always room.  The minivan carried our gear to all sorts of destinations – camping equipment out to the Black Hills, canoe paraphernalia to the Boundary Waters, XC skis to the North Shore trails, accordions to competitions in Chicago, bikes just about everywhere.  In more recent years, it moved kids into college dorms, made numerous trips to the dump when we moved out of our home of 26 years, and hauled furniture to our new house in Duluth.

I loved the minivan’s seating capacity.  Even with a family of five, there was still room to bring Grandma and Grandpa along, or extra friends.  Cat and dog?  Sure, plenty of space.  That youngest child graduated from college last year, and we piled kids, grandkids and girlfriend in the minivan for the 10-hour journey to his graduation.  That was true togetherness!

But today we are moving on.  Now down to just the two of us, we decided to replace the minivan with a Subaru Outback and will soon donate our 13 year old minivan to a good cause.  The new vehicle’s all-wheel drive is great for Minnesota winters, and it has a decent capacity in the rear compartment.  There’s no doubt it was a practical choice.  But I’m going to miss the minivan.  Good thing my daughter and her husband bought one recently.  It’s my turn to jump in with the grandkids!

Then and Now

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The picture caught my eye right away.  Dad’s old photo album had a photo that he labeled “New Road to the Porcupine Mountains” dated 1936.  We traveled that same road this summer on our cycling trip.  What was just being built in Dad’s day is a mature road in mine.

Soon my eyes were scanning other photos as I worked my way through the albums, looking for familiar sights.  It didn’t take long.  Dad went to college in Houghton, so I easily found another common location on the Keweenah Peninsula, the Eagle Harbor lighthouse.  He took his picture from the water, I took mine from land.

We both visited Copper Harbor, although Dad must have gone up Brockway Mountain Drive to get to the overlook for a broad sweeping view.  Since we were on bicycles, we declined the additional climb.  But I think it would have been worth it.

Another album brought a trip to the Canadian Rockies.  We too traveled there this summer.  Who can resist Lake Louise and the pretty hike along the lake to look back at the big chateau?  Apparently neither my dad nor I could.

We had more than travels in common.  Dad loved to ski, and I discovered that he skied the trails as well as the slopes as a young man.  I too took to the trails in the UP last winter.

 

Dad and Mom enjoyed canoeing.  I don’t think they ever went to the Boundary Waters, like I did with my son Carl.  I think they preferred more sedate day trips.  And fashion wear.

Some things are timeless.  It feels good to know that Dad and I chose the same places to visit.  We chose the same outdoor activities.  And we took the same pictures.  Lasting memories, then and now.

Cycling – It’s all about the Food

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We certainly ate our way around the Trans-Superior Cycling Tour, but with all the cycling I still lost weight!  And each night, we stayed in a different motel or B&B.  So I thought it would be fun to put together reviews of each of the places we ate or stayed.

The lodgings were all booked well in advance.  My husband, Rich, poured hours into researching motels and making the reservations, and deserves huge kudos for his excellent choices.  Our criteria included reasonable cost, nice but not fancy, and convenient location to both our route and to places to eat.  That last one was critical – who wants to cycle additional miles at the end of the day to find dinner?  We also allowed ourselves a couple of splurges on more special places to stay.

The restaurants and ice cream venues were all chosen en route.  Some just jumped out of us and we made spontaneous stops.  For others we’d often get recommendations from other travelers, motel staff or other restaurants.  No one steered us wrong.

So here they are – enjoy!

Ruxy’s Cottage Cafe, Port Wing WI – A spontaneous mid-morning break.  I don’t know why Rich talked me into splitting a cinnamon roll. Big mistake. They were wonderful. Fresh, soft, just sweet enough and not oversized. I should have insisted on having one all to myself.

Big Water Coffee Roasters, Bayfield WI – The sign outside said “Smooth Move.”. That’s all it took to get me inside to find out I had correctly interpreted the message. We enjoyed Lake Berry Breeze smoothies at the end of our day’s 80 mile ride. Oh, did they taste good! The food delivered to the other customers at their outside tables looked mighty fine too.

Ethel’s at 250, Bayfield WI – Hungry for a good dinner, we took the recommendation of a local who sent us here and it did not disappoint. The ambiance and the food were both fresh and tasteful. We sat outside on the balcony and enjoyed the sliver of lake view as well as the balmy evening. My pesto pasta with fresh whitefish was excellent, and Rich enjoyed a juicy burger.

Seagull Bay Motel, Bayfield WI – Not in the center of town, but at a better price than the lodgings that are. We had a beautiful lake view from our room, and there was a lovely yard and garden out back. A nice garden path took us right into town, just five blocks and no hills. The opposite direction offered 2 miles along the water. Our room was simple but clean and comfortable and included a refrigerator and microwave. (And enough room for our bikes.) It was an excellent value.

Tap Roots Coffee Shop, Ashland WI – We didn’t go here but I wanted to. It was my kind of place – lattes and other espresso drinks, yummy looking scones and other baked goods, and an eclectic interior. But Rich needed a “real breakfast” and I couldn’t argue with that given all our cycling. But I’d stop here in a heartbeat if I were on my own.

Maple Creek Restaurant, Ashland WI – It wasn’t the humble local cafe we were seeking, but it turned out to be better than that. Not usually a lover of buffets, I could see the value in this breakfast buffet. They had a nice selection of fresh fruits and yogurt in addition to the cooked foods. Rich could fill up on the eggs and bacon he craved, and I could add a couple pancakes and a sliver of coffee cake to my healthier choices. It hit the spot for both of us and the quality was good, particularly for a buffet.

Black River Crossing B&B, Bessemer MI – Truth be told, we were return customers. We had stayed there last winter and been thoroughly charmed by both the B&B and our hosts, Sue and Stan. Returning in the summer, it was great fun to see the yard in full bloom. The flowers, multiple decks and patios, waterfalls and ponds were gorgeous and provided a peaceful afternoon’s rest. They had stocked the fridge for any post-cycling food we might need, and included us in their evening barbecue with friends. It was like returning to stay with old friends. And the jacuzzi room on the second floor was luxuriously appointed and comfortable.

Syl’s Cafe, Ontonagon MI – They specialize in pasties, so since we were famished after the day’s cycling, we split one for an appetizer. It was hot, flavorful and moist. We each had grilled sandwiches on homemade sourdough bread, which were nice and crisp on the outside and had generous portions of fillings. Everything was freshly prepared and the cafe was typically appointed for a Mom and Pop place, but sparkling clean with friendly wait staff.

Scott’s Superior Inn, Ontonogan MI – They have both motel units and cabins near the lake. Our motel room was plain but functional, if a bit dated and tired looking.. It had only one outlet, which presented a challenge for today’s array of rechargeable electronic devices. They did have access to the lake, with a section of the beautiful sand beach. The price was very reasonable, it was quiet and our tired bodies had a good nights sleep.

Grandma Myrt’s Cafe, Mass City MI – This was recommended to us as the only real option for a full breakfast on our route from Ontonagon. But it more than fit the bill. There were loads of cars outside, and the plain interior was filled with locals as well as motorcyclist travelers. The cook/waitress was a busy young woman filling dual roles, but she delivered the most delicious food. Rich had a Farmer Omlette filled with sausage and peppers along with all the side trimmings, which he said was excellent. I had divine Cinnamon French Toast made with homemade cinnamon bread – it had a crisp eggy exterior and a firm but soft interior.

Treats Ice Cream, Chassell MI – We had the most enormous smoothies here. They must have been 16 oz. There were numerous flavors to choose from, including the option of mixing them. I had blackberry-raspberry, and Rich went with straight blackberry. They were so thick, it was hard to suck them up through our straws, but we managed. The big waffle cones that others walked away with looked good too.

The Library Restaurant and Brew Pub, Houghton MI – My son reminded me that we had eaten here when on a college visit five years ago, and I agreed that it was worth repeating. We were able to get seats with a view of the water in the setting sun in the pleasant dining room. The food was as good as I remembered. Rich had a good steak, and I enjoyed a salmon topped with grilled salmon.

Super 8 Motel, Houghton MI – This has to be the best Super 8 I’ve ever stayed in. It is located right down on the water, and in fact the bike trail that we took into town led us right there. In addition to nice rooms, it has a large deck outside by the water, as well as a pool, sauna and hot tub. They even had a coin laundry for guests. Their “Super Starter” breakfast was not as complete as others, but it covered the basics pretty well.

Jampot Bakery, Eagle Harbor MI – This bakery is a bit of a local legend. It is the outlet for the labors of the Society of St. John Monastery, which was founded on the nearby shore by a small group of monks in 1983. Their initial penchant for picking wild berries and baking soon turned into a venture able to support their little community. We were served by a pleasant monk who happily described the plethora of decadent flavors of muffins, and left with a heavy bag of muffins. They also sell jams, breads and cookies. We consumed two muffins immediately at a nearby picnic table in the woods, rich and delicious. Be sure to notice their monastery building just down the shore – unique architecture with beautiful gardens.

Harbor Haus Restaurant, Copper Harbor MI – Another guest at our motel recommended this restaurant as having the best food in town. Although we had no frame of reference, we were sure our dinners were proof. They had an extensive menu, which looked expensive, but when we considered all the courses it included, we felt it was justified. Rich’s flank steak and my Lake Superior trout were cooked to perfection, and the sides were fresh and outside the ordinary offerings.

Bella Vista Motel, Copper Harbor MI – This was a well maintained little motel perfectly situated right on the edge of the harbor. Our room was tastefully decorated and included a deck with chairs in a garden setting overlooking the harbor. Not only could we watch the harbor activity, but we could see lake freighters beyond the break front. The price was reasonable, and it was just a short walk from there to the ferry.

Rock Harbor Lodge, Isle Royale MI – This is the only lodging available on Isle Royale, and while it is pricey, it is a worthwhile splurge if you are not the camping type, or just care to indulge yourself. The rooms are in a set of 2-story buildings along the edge of the harbor, with Lake Superior’s water lapping at the harbor shore just outside the windows. Furnishings are a simple modern style and the rooms feel recently updated. No TV, no Internet, no cell phone reception. This is a wilderness park after all.

Greenstone Grill, Isle Royale MI – There are two restaurant choices at Rock Harbor, and they share the same building.  This one is the more informal of the two, although how formal can you get on a wilderness island?  They serve simple fare which is pretty good  considering everything has to be brought over by ferry.  We had tastefully prepared sandwiches and burger, although the portions were not huge. They also make box lunches for the ferry which you can request the night before.  It’s not well advertised, just ask the wait staff.

My Sister’s Place, Grand Marais MN – It wasn’t my choice of restaurant. (For the record, my personal favorite in Grand Marais is the Angry Trout, but Rich thinks their food is too “weird” for his more plain tastes.) It did have the advantage of being just a block from our motel. And it was full, had lively and friendly wait staff, and fairly quick service. It’s definitely a bar/restaurant with a menu to match. My wild rice salad was undistinguished, and the dressing too syrupy for my taste. But Rich had a good burger and fries, so he was happy, and he’s more the type of customer they seek to please.

Mangy Moose Motel, Grand Marais MN – This hotel has been under new ownership for a year, and they have done a wonderful job of renovating a deteriorating older motel. It is conveniently located on the highway near the center of town. The units are a bit back from the road, and all have been completely remodeled. Our room was small, but they made efficient use of the space using modern materials with simple clean lines. We were most impressed by the power strip that easily accommodated all our chargers – a brilliant addition on their part. The price was very reasonable, especially for this artsy and often expensive town.

Coho Cafe, Tofte MN – This is an old favorite of mine. I’ve been stopping here for latte and baked goods for years, and have had the occasional lunch. Everything is fresh and artfully presented, and menu options are unique and flavorful. Rich had a hearty breakfast sandwich and I had the Trail Mix breakfast with yogurt and granola as well as a sinful cinnamon twist. I’m only disappointed that I haven’t seen scones there for some time – my personal favorite. Their breads are well worth purchasing to take home.

Big Dipper, Beaver Bay MN – We already knew that they made great smoothies from a prior visit. And they did not disappoint. The perfect ending to our hottest day of cycling.

Camp 61 Motel, Beaver Bay MN – This is another renovated motel. These owners have resurrected not only an old motel but a restaurant as well. The interior has been completed refurbished, and they have a wonderful lobby furnished with lodge style furniture, old photographs and memorabilia. It was a very pleasant place to sit in the evening. Our room was small but freshly remodeled, clean and comfortable.

Camp 61 Restaurant, Beaver Bay MN – This was a big surprise to me. I expected the usual burger or sandwiches and fries fare. Instead, we found a broad menu with tasteful dinner options. I had a delicious walleye, wrapped in leaves and marinated with an Asian flair, served on a wild rice pilaf. Rich enjoyed one of their specials, a thick pork chop with hearty camp potatoes. Due to a slight mix-up, they insisted on serving us complimentary desserts, which we otherwise would have declined. Both the mixed berry pie and decadent chocolate cake, both with ice cream, were heavenly.

Mocha Moose, Two Harbors MN – We’ve been here many times, and love the eclectic interior, the gregarious and lively owner, and the pastries as well as the latte. We both had hearty breakfast turnovers, mine vegetarian, Rich’s with ham and cheese. Light and fluffy as well as ample fillings fed us well. This is a favorite cycling destination or mid-ride stop, not only for us but other cyclists from Duluth.

Grandma’s Box Car, Duluth MN – Our finale ice cream cones!  It was pricey but convenient to our finishing destination in the heart of Canal Park.  And who was going to argue?  The ice cream was good, although the only choices were huge waffle cones or cake cones sold as “kid’s cones”  but in reality were a perfectly adequate adult sized cone.

Cycling the Home Stretch

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We were up early and on our way while the sun was still making its way up through the trees. It was refreshing to be out at that hour, when the sky was an indeterminate color of blue, few people were stirring and cars had not yet crowded the highway. It was cool but held the promise of a warm day to come.

From Beaver Bay, the sights came early in our route. Within half an hour we were cycling up to Split Rock Lighthouse. The park was deserted and we were thankful that park rules were not so stringent as to require locked gates. We had our own private viewing of the lighthouse and its surroundings, able to take in the beauty of the buildings and shoreline in the golden sun of early morning. I’d recommend it to any tourist! In fact, we accidentally discovered a unique view of the lighthouse, reflected in the vaulted windows of the visitor center.

Our next pause was at Gooseberry Falls. While most of the rivers we passed along the shore had minimal flow, Gooseberry at least had enough water to provide a good display on the upper falls.

For that entire section of the shoreline, we were able to follow the Gitchi-Gami State Trail, a bicycle trail that aspires to connect Two Harbors to Grand Marais along the North Shore. Although it is still discontinuous, the sections like this that are complete are marvelous. In addition to relieving cyclists from highway travel, the trail is routed through the woods and periodically winds down toward the lake for additional views unavailable to those on the highway. It is well worth the additional hill climbs to take advantage of the trail. I learned too late that there were new portions of trail competed above Schroeder that would have benefited us yesterday.

One very small section of the Gitchi-Gami trail that is not to be missed is at Silver Cliffs. The trail follows the old highway around the tunnel, clinging to the edge of the rocks with stunning views of the lake and shoreline.

Despite having to travel 31 miles before eating, we were determined to stop at the Mocha Moose for breakfast. Not only did it represent truly reaching home turf, being on the Scenic Highway portion of 61, but it was also a key element in one of our earliest training rides. Back in March on a chilly day in the 40s, it was our turnaround point for a ride up the shore and back. That day we desperately needed the warming stop and loved the friendly atmosphere. Today we didn’t need warming, but we still got “moosinated” and enjoyed hearty breakfast turnovers.

From there on we were on extremely familiar territory. The landmarks seemed to fly by. Restaurants, lodgings, houses, rivers and viewpoints came in rapid succession. Was it because we had become immune to the distances that once seemed a stretch? Certainly we had come a long way since that early training ride.

At McQuade Harbor we were joined by my friend Myra who came out to ride to the finish with us. It was great having her support and company for the final miles. Upon reaching Duluth, we were able to follow the Lakewalk to Canal Park, our chosen destination point. After traveling at reasonable speeds on highways for 9 days, it was quite a change of pace when we reached the more populated sections of the trail where it is rightfully dominated by tourists, pedestrians, runners and four-wheeled cycle buggies. It made for tricky navigation, slowing and dodging the populous, but had a festive flavor at the same time.

Our end point was the Marine Museum by the Aerial Bridge. There we were met by our son, Erik, and my sister, Susie, who formed a rousing welcoming committee, including a sign. After the obligatory photos, it was ice cream cones for everyone (of course!). To make the celebration complete, we were honored with an oar boat that came through the bridge heading out into the lake – the ultimate Duluth experience. It was the perfect ending to our trip.

We weren’t really done cycling, though. We still had to ride home, seven final miles. As we returned along the Lakewalk, the now cloudy skies began to produce rain. It wasn’t a sustained rainfall, however, and actually felt kind of good, breaking the heat of the day. It was a leisurely ride, lacking the same sense of purpose we’d had on the rest of our tour. After all, we’d already celebrated our finish. We’d passed the 500 mile mark just before entering Duluth. And we had completed the circle around our end of the lake.

It truly was 500 miles of love, just like it says on our shirts. I can’t wait to plan the next trip.

Cycling Familiar Territory

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We awoke to the sound of wet tires swishing on the pavement after additional overnight thunderstorms. Given that we had a shorter distance to travel today, there was little reason to rush the start of our ride. Our only concern was the narrow shoulders along today’s stretch of highway 61. But we counted on having less traffic heading south on a Friday to ease that issue. In fact, the situation was not quite as bad as we expected. Recent roadwork had improved the width and surface of the shoulders in many places. However, between the Cascade State Park Headquarters and Lutsen ski resort they were truly terrible. We had two feet at most, and the pavement was crumbling. We took to weaving between road and shoulder, depending on whether there were cars coming or not. It was nerve wracking, even with weekday traffic. The worst incident was a big SUV passing a car in the opposite direction, which put him on our side of the road. He passed within 18 inches of us – very unnerving! We dubbed that 9 mile section of road the “least pleasant” of our whole trip.

I don’t think I had really thought before about which sections of the North Shore had more parks and sights than others. When traveling by car, one passes through them in a short enough span that it makes little difference. On a bike it is a lot more apparent. Today’s miles included few such attractions. So we made up for it with stops of our own making.

First was breakfast. We’ve taken to putting 20-30 miles behind us then stopping for a good breakfast. Today at my insistence we hit an old favorite of mine, the Coho Cafe in Tofte. In addition to tasty meals (and a latte at last for me), we fed our internet-starved cravings. We have been mostly devoid of internet and cell phone coverage the last three nights, which was not entirely a bad thing. But we were eager to update our blogs, so we each got a posting up during breakfast.

Next we visited friend and author Beryl Singleton Bissell. I read her first book, The Scent of God, a number of years ago, then was reintroduced to her work when she put out A View of the Lake about being a transplant from the Twin Cities in Schroeder MN. I was enthralled with both books, and thrilled when she accepted my invitation to meet with my book club last fall. She provided a wonderful evening of discussion and sharing abut her writing. Being able to see her in her North Shore home surroundings was a real treat. By then the day had turned warm and sunny, and we had a lovely visit on her deck overlooking the lake. A highlight was seeing her little red writing shed, which she used on a writing retreat and ultimately was able to move to her own yard. It was an uplifting and inspiring visit.

The sun grew warmer and the day hotter. In fact, this was our warmest day yet. So when Rich suggested we cycle up to Palisade Head, I was astounded. But game! It was a short distance to the amazing overlook area, but had the steepest inclines we had yet to encounter. I was determined not to walk my bike, but it did require standing up to surmount some of those hills! The view was worth it, though. Not even the slight haze in the distance could detract from the vistas. Two rock climbers were there scaling the vertical drop. While their endeavors seemed unfathomable to us, we were fascinated by it and completely floored when the woman climber completed the trip down and back up again in less than 10 minutes.

We completed our day with an interview with a reporter from the Lake County News-Chronicle. I’d done a “media blitz” the day before we started our trip, contacting the local newspapers in the cities where we were going to be staying. Several of them followed up on it, some without our even knowing it. We learned from some other cyclists near Copper Harbor that they’d read about us in the paper! We felt quite the celebrities.

Just in time Cycling

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The ferry to Grand Portage was a totally different experience from yesterday’s boat from the Michigan side – in more ways than one. First of all, it was a much different boat. This was the U.S. Mail boat, not primarily a passenger vessel. It was a lot smaller and was a 2-person low key operation. Highly efficient and seaworthy, but bare bones. Secondly, in addition to making mail quick stops around the island, it also picked up and dropped off hikers from various points on the island. Hence, it clung to the shore and made numerous stops on the island before heading back to the mainland. In fact, the actual crossing took less than two hours out of our 6 1/2 hour trip. And finally, and most importantly, I felt just fine. Hurray!!! The winds were much less, and the most we had were 1-3 foot swells, with much of the trip being even calmer than that. It was so nice to be able to enjoy the trip this time.
Molly on the ferry - feeling good!It was a long day on the ferry, and highly relaxing given the slow nature of the trip. Venturing into the inlets to pick up hikers was very pretty, and traveling the deep recesses into the island reminded us of the archipelagos of Scandinavia. Beyond that we entertained ourselves by talking to other passengers, trading our cycling stories for their hiking tales. We did quite a bit of reading, but I will admit to doing more snoozing than reading. Unlike yesterday, the boat’s motion kept lulling me to sleep. I didn’t mind a bit.

It was close to 4:00pm by the time our bikes were unloaded from the boat and we were ready to head down the North Shore. After hours of forced inactivity on the boat, it felt good to be doing something physical again. We had renewed energy in our cycling, pushing the pace faster than usual. We were pleased to find that that section of highway 61 had enormous shoulders, which lasted all the way to Grand Marais. Given the late hour, this was not the day to stop for sightseeing. But there were plenty of lake views in that section of the North Shore to welcome us back to Minnesota.

Try as we might, we couldn’t ignore the rain clouds overhead which dropped a few sprinkles on us. Soon they were producing lightening strikes over the lake. When the rumbles of thunder became closer and more insistent, we pressed on even harder. Rain began to fall In earnest as we entered Grand Marais. Before we got too wet, we found our motel, checked in and stashed our bikes in the room. Just minutes later, heavy thunderstorms and rain blanketed the area. Boy, did we time that right! Even better, after showering and settling in, the rain let up and allowed us to go out for dinner, make a trip to DQ and walk around the harbor.

The trip seems to take on a different feel from this point on. Our long distances are behind us, as are the hills. So it feels like we can practically coast home. In addition, we are now on familiar territory. No more surprises in our route – we know what the North Shore will throw at us. That is both reassuring and a disappointment. Seeing new places and exploring different parts of Lake Superior has been a highlight of the trip. It’s different cycling it than driving it in a car though, and I’m sure our remaining two days will provide us with ample experiences. And heaven only knows what must-see sights Rich will find along the way.

I’d Rather be Cycling

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Our day off. We had a respite from cycling to take the ferry from Copper Harbor to Rock Harbor on Isle Royale National Park. Rich was like a little kid, he was so excited. It was his first time on Isle Royale and he’d never crossed the middle of Lake Superior before. My anticipation took a slightly different angle. I was looking forward to returning to Isle Royale after a visit 40 (ouch!) years ago. And I was game to take the ferry, even though I have consistently been prone to seasickness. After all, it was an adventure.

The first sound I heard upon waking this morning was the lines of a nearby sailboat clanking against the mast, and the wind whistling through our open windows. I chose to think positively and put my faith in the Bonine that I took prior to boarding the boat. The sun was shining, we watched in amazement as they hoisted our bikes, panniers and all, with a single hand up to the top storage deck, and mingled with the hearty hikers boarding the boat.

It was a four hour crossing, and I made it less than an hour inside the cabin. As soon as we cleared the harbor, we were in deep swells. I watched wide-eyed as the horizon alternately dipped then rose out of sight on the opposite side. Wow, I’d never been in seas like this before! But my confidence remained high, and surprisingly I was not scared as the boat pitched and tossed at wild angles. Before long, however, I took stock of my body and gamely trained my eyes on the horizon on our side of the boat. It was much more stable in comparison. But the water won.

Soon I was dashing out the door onto the back deck of the boat. There I firmly gripped the railing and leaned over the side as advised by the crew. When that first wave of retching subsided (and it was only the first of many) I determined that I was there to stay. I firmly planted my feet apart, tightened my noose-like hold on the railing, and set my sights on the disappearing Michigan mainland straight being us. I used my legs to absorb the sway of the boat, desperately working to keep my upper body as verticle as possible. The fresh air that blew around me felt good, if only it hadn’t been tainted by diesel fumes.

It was an interminable three more hours. I found weak fascination in watching the clashing waves and gusty spray that created myriad patterns behind the boat. But that’s about all I had to engage my brain. Looking left or right was not an option, nor was talking. Not that my companions were interested in lively conversation. I had plenty of company out there, all in the same state. It’s no wonder, as we were in 6 foot swells. The crew described it as “worse than average” but not out of the norm for this time of year. If standing under the trees shivering in the pouring rain was miserable, this was abject agony. I would much rather have been cycling, even struggling up the steepest hill.

Rich suffered no such affectation, wouldn’t you know. On his visit out to commiserate with me, he was bouncing all around, looking at everything and clearly enjoying himself. All I wanted was to block him from my peripheral vision – I couldn’t handle the additional motion. He spent time out on the front deck, hanging on for dear life, getting hit by the spray, but loving it. I had to rely on his pictures to relive the scenic entrance to Isle Royale after the fact.

It took a nap and a few bites of salty crackers to restore any semblance of normalcy once we reached shore. But I was relieved to rally enough to get outside to explore our small area of the island and take a canoe out with Rich to paddle the pristine waterway in Tobin Harbor. Ironically, I didn’t mind being back out on the water. It was flat and calm there, and shore was only a few strokes away. We paddled in search of the cabin still owned by a friend, the last generation of his family to be allowed to hold private property in the park. In the vast expanse of wilderness here, we saw little harm that the remaining cabins posed.

Isle Royale is a beautiful place. Its deeply forested terrain and rocky shores bordered by deep blue waters were especially nice on a sunny, warm day like today. I would like to have gotten out for a short hike, but Rich was dedicated to keeping it a rest day, and certainly my body needed it. So like the other lodge guests, who are staying in relative luxury compared to the hikers, we took advantage of the amenities while still appreciating the nature all around us.

Tomorrow it’s back to cycling again. But not until I brave another ferry ride over to the Minnesota side. Some travelers who arrived on that boat today clued me in to the first mate, Kirk. They vouched for him as a venerable seasickness coach. Kirk, I’ll be looking for you tomorrow morning.