Tag Archives: North Shore

Along for the Ride

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Once again Rich and I are off on another working vacation. Only this time he’s working and I’m vacationing!  I think I got the best end of this deal.

The gig is with Bike Tour Vacations.  The company is owned by an old neighborhood friend of Rich’s, Jim Plaunt.  Although he defected and moved to Michigan, he hasn’t forgotten the appeal of Northern Minnesota, and still returns to lead bike trips through our beautiful wilderness scenery.7-25-2014 4-34-53 PM

Last year Jim enticed Rich to co-lead a trip with him.  Rich rather enjoyed his position as a “flunky,” helping out the cycling guests yet still being able to ride his bike for a large share of the trip.  It was a great way to earn his way through an enjoyable tour.  And the experience was good enough that he agreed to return and assist with two more trips this summer.  Given an invitation to accompany Rich and bunk with the “paid help,” I easily decided to join the 5-day Minnesota North Shore Tour.

North Shore Tour MapThis will be an entirely new experience for me.  Not the biking, but the whole concept of a supported ride.  The norm is for Rich and me to take off on our own, traveling with everything we need in one set of panniers each.  Sometimes for months.  This time Jim and Rich will trade off driving the support van, transporting my belongings from hotel to hotel.  I will cycle with only day bags on my bike, and no camping gear.  I feel lighter already!

That same van will make stops for us.  No need to worry about running out of water or long distances between food.  They will be there for us with water and snacks on board.  Any breakdowns will also be serviced by the friendly and handy co-leaders.  And I hear we even stop for lunch.  Since Jim handles all the lodging reservations and meals, Rich gets a bit of a break as well.  Normally, that falls on his shoulders to research each night before we move on.

Perhaps one of the biggest adjustments will be traveling in a pack.  How tightly we cycle together is yet to be seen.  But mealtimes and evenings allow opportunities to socialize and enjoy local entertainment offerings. I’m looking forward to the extra company and camaraderie.

Rich jokes that since he’s the flunky on this trip and I’m a paying guest, I have a legitimate right to order him around.   Hmm, it’s tempting…  If I know what’s good for me, I think I’ll pass on that.  But I’m still looking forward to going along for the ride.

North Shore Discoveries

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Despite the amount of time I’ve spent on the North Shore, there there is always something new to discover. This week it was two “new to me” hiking trails. Admittedly I have spent more time cross-country skiing on the area’s trails, so it’s not too surprising that there are still plenty of hiking opportunities to explore.

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Root cellar once used to store food is the only remaining structure on the land.

The first was Sugarloaf Cove. This 34-acre site was formerly occupied by Consolidated Papers for their pulpwood rafting operation. Back in those days, thousands of logs dropped down a chute into the lake and were collected in a bay until there were enough to form a “raft.” Surrounded by log booms, 6-8 loads were towed across Lake Superior to Wisconsin each summer.

In 1988 the land was acquired by the State of Minnesota with the intent of turning it back to its natural state, and preserving it for future generations. A tasteful nature center was constructed, with green technology to minimize its impact. There is a lovely 1-mile self-guided nature trail through the property. It’s a beautiful trail on its own, including its pebble beach and lake views. But the numbered points of interest along the way also detail the history of the log operation and identify remnants that still remain visible.

The site has only a modest dirt road and little in the way of signage at the entrance, so it’s easy to miss. It’s just four miles southwest of Schroeder and is well worth a visit.

IMG_4540The second was finding the “split rocks” that may have given the Split Rock River its name. Although the exact origin of the name is still in question, the rocks are impressive. The Split Rock River Loop trail departs from the roadside parking area southwest of the lighthouse entrance of the park. Heading inland along the river, the trail follows the Split Rock River. About 1/2 mile in, it joins the Superior Hiking Trail and crosses the river which branches into East and West branches. The trail follows the East or main branch, closely following the water which boasts a continual flow of waterfalls and rapids along its course. With the foliage sporting that new spring green color as it emerged, and small wildflowers dotting the trail side with yellow, white and purple, it was an enchanting hike.

IMG_4542The trail maps weren’t clear about the location of the rocks, so we began to doubt our route as we continued to climb upward over terrain that was crisscrossed with tree roots and at times rocky footing. But suddenly there they were – huge, tall rocks with a split down the middle. And well worth the 2-mile hike to reach them. The view of the river from that spot IMG_4543was impressive as well, with high cliffs across the way.

To return, we continued up the river about another 1/2 mile to reach a bridge. It warned us that only one hiker should cross at a time – and we complied. On the other side, the trail proved to be gentler and more smooth underfoot. It was easy walking down, particularly when we veered away from the river. Reaching the Split Rock Shelter, we found ourselves at the top of a large plateau with unlimited views of lake and land.  A short spur trail took us back to the parking lot, for a total of about 5 miles of hiking.

It didn’t hurt that we had beautiful weather for hiking. But even without it, both trails felt like gems. Very different, but great discoveries. And I’m sure the North Shore holds a lot more.

 

North Shore Triple Exposure

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It was a long week.  Especially for those of us who thrive on outdoor activity.  Day after day of hard driving winds, sleet and rain meant squeezing in workouts in the “least bad” part of the day, and bearing the gloomy skies from behind rain-soaked windows for the remainder.

So when today dawned bright and sunny, in was an irresistible invitation to reconnect with Mother Nature.  And by instinct I headed for the North Shore.  My first engagement was my morning run.  Padding down the road along Brighton Beach, I took in the rich blue of the sky and the water reflecting the same deep hues.  The intensity of the colors filled my soul, after days of drabness deprived of this beauty.  Bright white ice still clung to the shoreline, in stark contrast with the blue – a dazzling sight.  The heavy gray rocks added the perfect balance and seemed to anchor the scene.  It was easy to press on, mile after mile admiring the shore and drinking in the sunlight.  Lacking a camera, I had to memorize the images of the shore in my mind instead.

As the day progressed and still we were graced with the sun, I knew I hadn’t yet had enough.  For my second encounter I enlisted a friend and cycled up the shore.  The same spell-binding scene passed by even more quickly as we pedaled.  Although the air was cool by the frigid water, it felt refreshing and crisp with the aid of the sun.  At Stony Point we circled back on the dirt road along the shoreline.  Where days earlier the pounding waves and high splashing water were the attraction, today it was a tranquil setting where a family picnicked on the rocks.  This time I had a camera in my trunk bag, but I was enjoying the ride too much to bother stopping to try and capture it.

After dinner I was enticed out to takeIMG_4005 a walk with my husband.  Hearing a boat toot for the bridge, we were inexorably drawn back to Brighton Beach once more.  My third visit to the shore for the day.  With the shipping lane finally opening up with increased traffic, the boat made rapid progress and was soon opposite our position.  The sun was low but still shone on the shallow ice as well as the passing ore boat.IMG_4012

Finally I was able to get some photos.  On foot, not distracted by the need to keep moving, I found the right motivation to focus and shoot.  I could record the end of the day, if not the beginning and middle.  I guess the third time’s the charm.

Embracing the Wind

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IMG_0851We didn’t need the weather forecast to tell us it was an ugly day.  We could tell just by listening to the wind howl and seeing the drab wet skies.  Just to emphasize the point, we discovered that a huge pine tree had fallen behind our house during the night.  It was so tall, it nearly reached the neighbor’s house from the lot line where it once stood.  So sad – it takes years and years to grow them that tall.

So what does one do in such nasty weather?  Why go out and watch it, of course.  We jumped into the car with our cameras and headed up the North Shore to get a look at Mother Nature in all her fury.  With 30+ mph winds blasting out of the NE, there had to be some enormous waves.  Duluth was socked in by ice, brought in by that very same wind, so our plan was to outdrive it and find open water.

IMG_3971 adjustedStony Point was our first stop, and it didn’t disappoint.  Watching the waves from the car was impressive, with high flying spray that soaked the rocks right up to the road.  We were content to take it all in from the protection of our vehicle, then decided we had to get out.  Just opening the car door I could feel the strength of the wind.  Standing up in it and trying to steady a camera was another matter.  What power.  It’s no wonder my photos didn’t do justice to the wind and the waves.

IMG_3982Our next destination was Split Rock Lighthouse.  We expected to see spectacular waves pounding the base of the lighthouse.  But we didn’t take into account that the best view was from the leeward side of the beacon.  Naturally the waves would be crashing on the other side.  But rounding the corner from our vantage point, we found a bay with a lot of IMG_3983action.  It also had the advantage of being sheltered from the wind.  We could watch the crashing waves and snap photos in the relative comfort of the protected bay.

It was cold and wet, but the car was warm.  And there was that comforting latte from the Mocha Moose on the way home.  Yes, I’m glad we embraced the wind and the opportunity for a morning’s adventure.

Annual Rite of Spring

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Does two years running make an annual event?  I’d like to think so.  For the second year in a row, Rich and I have been lured up the North Shore for our inaugural spring bike ride along the lake.  All it takes is a good weather forecast, plenty of warm sunshine and that glistening blue water.  Oh, and the disappearance of snow.  Or most of it, anyway.

By coincidence we chose a Monday exactly one week earlier than last year’s ride.  But the conditions were strikingly similar.  The temperatures were in the 50s and the wind was off the land, avoiding that cold lake wind chill factor.

IMG_3830We decided to ride from Gooseberry Falls State Park to Beaver Bay and back again.  That section of Lake Superior was ice-free near the shore, so we were able to enjoy views of the open water at its finest.  Conditions on land were not quite so uniform.  Wherever the sun shone, the ground was bare.  But shady areas still had an abundance of snow, and deep in the woods winter still reigned.

The same held true on the Gitchi-Gami State Trail.  Wherever it paralleled highway 61 and had plenty of sun, it was clear.  But where it dipped down toward the lake and snaked through the woods, the bike trail was buried in snow. We hopscotched from trail to highway shoulders as conditions warranted.  Fortunately, there was little traffic to bother us on a spring weekday morning.

IMG_8113With the spring runoff, the rivers and streams were in prime form.  Gooseberry Falls was a rushing torrent, with water gushing over the rocks in a thunderous roar.  Along the shore, water forced its way over the stone cliffs, forming spontaneous waterfalls where normally none exist.  Ordinarily the Beaver River is barely noticeable when driving over the bridge, but that day it was hard to miss the teeming water.

IMG_3832The whole premise of this early spring ride was to enjoy the journey.  Since we had few miles under our wheels yet this season, there was no point in trying to press for speed.  And the novelty of the warm day just begged for lingering.  All the better for taking in the sights along the way.  No trip up the Shore is complete without stopping to admire Split Rock Lighthouse.  And we had to stop for IMG_3834Adirondack Chairs – just like in Gaspé!

The only thing missing was an ice cream break.  I’m still not sure how we let that happen.  We will have to improve on that next year.  On the first balmy spring day.  The 3rd annual rite of spring.

 

 

 

Ice Mushrooms

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I have to say that having open water Photo Feb 09, 4 10 38 PMon Lake Superior makes a huge difference.  Looking out at an expanse of flat white ice is not all that appealing or inspiring. So I am especially grateful for the recent strong winds that left us with deep blue water in its place.

IMG_3513 trimmedAlong the shoreline at Brighton Beach, it also brought us ice mushrooms.  At least that’s what they look like to me.  Rocks close to shore topped with rounded ice caps, their stony bases barely exposed above the waterline.IMG_3512 trimmed

But the best part is the lacy edging.  The lapping of the water which ate away at the icy mounds also left behind delicate traces.  Constant dripping created icicle fringe around each one.  But Mother Nature didn’t stop there.  Each individual ice shard resembles a miniature arrow, adding complexity to the design as it points down to the blue water below.  Wonderful artwork.

It’s inevitable.  I know the lake ice will sweep back in.  And maybe it will bring some art wonders of its own.  That’s the best part – each visit to the shore brings something new to discover.

Six black muffins

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I now know I can trust my instincts.  On our annual XC ski weekend, I like to go out before breakfast to either ski, snowshoe or take photographs.  This year was no exception.  Before leaving the cabin for an early morning walk, I popped a few muffins in the oven along with some pears to bake, leaving Susan in charge of them while she pursued her own morning passion – painting.

IMG_3221The morning was gray and uninspiring, but it was pleasant wandering through the fresh snow that had fallen during the night on the small roadway right next to Lake Superior’s shore.  Mine were the only tracks in the snow, and the rest of the world seemed asleep.  The area was an eclectic collection of tiny cottages, large homes with sweeping views and tumble down sheds.  I wasn’t adventurous enough to trudge through the deep snow to get to the water’s edge, so I had to confine my photography to what I could see from the road.

As I walked, my thoughts kept wandering back to the oven.  Did I tell Susan when the muffins would be done?  Did I set it to the right temperature?  Despite my best efforts to dismiss that responsibility, something nagged at me.  But I walked on – intent to let go and savor the freshness of the morning.

Opening the door to the cabin, my senses were assaulted by the harsh burning smell.  And it wasn’t the blaze in the fireplace.  Susan looked at me sheepishly saying “I failed…”  Suddenly the six black rocks outside on the deck railing took on significance as I recognized them DSCN0055for what they were.  And the charred pears that melded themselves into the baking dishes were equally appalling.  I knew it!  I shouldn’t have left my baking in the hands of an artist absorbed in her work.

But in fact, I was wrong.  And Susan’s self-blame was misplaced.  Instead of activating the lower heat element, the oven malfunctioned and turned on the broiler, charring our breakfast to death.  No amount of care or attention could have stemmed the tide on that disaster waiting to happen.  All we could do was laugh.  And poke fun at ourselves and the situation.  And our six black muffins.  Sitting in a row.

My instincts were right – something was bound to go amiss.  I just didn’t know what.  And Susan’s painting?  It turned out quite nicely.  A lot better than the muffins.

2014 North Shore at Anderson's Resort day 1

 

Deep snow, silent woods

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Many times Susan and I have been snow challenged on our annual XC ski trip. Not this year. Snow was in abundance after about a foot of new snow fell on the North Shore the day before our trip. And more snow continued to fall and accumulate while we were there. Instead of navigating sparsely covered trails, we plowed through new snow still awaiting the arrival of the groomer. Or skied the latest powder into the previous set of tracks.  While it was slow going, and we didn’t cover anywhere near our usual number of kilometers, we put out plenty of effort blazing the trail. And it was so worth it.

DSCN0041There’s nothing like the silence of new snow. It slid soundlessly under our skis as we plodded along. It glistened in the sunshine, sparkling like closely packed constellations. And it muffled everything around us. Whenever I stopped, there was a total absence of sound. I could tell when a large bird flew overhead, announced by the whoosh of the air as it flapped its wings.

The trees were cloaked in heavy layers of snow. Skiing through deep pine woods was like traveling through a tunnel, with walls of snowy pine boughs. So beautiful. So peaceful.

DSCN0053The sky overhead was that deep blue that only comes with cold dry air. It made for a striking background in contrast to the snowy pines and tall willowy deciduous tree limbs.

The sunshine had a palpable warmth that was as noticeable in its absence in the cool shade as it was radiating on our faces when we stopped to soak it up. Late afternoon brought fiery sunsets with a brilliant red glow in the sky.

Yes, it was a good year for snow. And a great year for striding through the woods.

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Changing Perspectives

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Tonight my good friend Susan arrives in Duluth for the start of our 22nd annual XC Ski weekend together.  This is the first time we haven’t driven up from the Cities together, talking our way through the dark to our first stop in Duluth.  I remember those days well, rushing out of work, decompressing on the drive and looking forward to some time to ourselves.  It was a release from kids, husbands, work and routine.

How things have changed, for me anyway.  Retirement has not only brought me back to Duluth, but I’ve left behind the stresses of work for good, not just for a long weekend.  The kids have all grown, and having the little ones in the house is now something special rather than a daily responsibility.

I no longer feel I need the “break.”  But I still look forward to our ski trip.  There is no substitute for time spent with a long-term friend, one who knows me well.  Nothing else compares to getting in some women time.  We can talk feelings, art, culture, crafts, family, life, religion and anything else that occurs to us.  Running out of things to talk about is never an issue.  And it is oh, so rewarding.

Of course we’ll ski.  We’ll put in asIMG_7501 many kilometers as we can squeeze in each day.  It will be invigorating and being out in the snowy woods will feed our souls.  We’ll revel in the views of Lake Superior and appreciate the beauty of the North Shore.  And each night we’ll collapse in front of the fireplace to enjoy some wine and cheese – and chocolates – and talk.

Yes, some things about this get-away weekend have changed.  But my real reasons for treasuring it stand firm.  It’s all just a matter of perspective.

 

 

 

 

Icy Expectations

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I heard about the Ice Bar last year.  It caught my attention, and I put it on my mental “I’d like to do this” list.  But it didn’t happen.

Last week I saw the article in the local paper about it’s annual reincarnation, with a Winter Olympics theme.  With the extreme cold we’ve had, I figured it had to be holding up well, and put it back on my list.  This time we found willing friends and made the trip together up to Grand Superior Lodge to take in the Blu Ice Bar.

IMG_3219 trimmedArmed with heavy jackets, long johns and boots we were prepared to settle in for a chilly but unique drink at the outdoor bar.  Although I realized the structure itself was a tent and not made of ice, from the description I did envision table and chairs made of ice.  Instead, we found a large open area, with ice sculptures decorating the perimeter, and a round icy table in the center for stand-up socializing. There was a good crowd inside, many sporting snowmobile suits or downhill ski garb.

IMG_3220 trimmedThe bar itself was quite impressive, and completely made of ice.  And I couldn’t help but applaud their choice of cross-country skiing for the sport that adorned the front.  In fact, all the ice sculptures were attractive and well done, particularly when back-lit with colored lights.  We availed ourselves of the unique drink offerings, choosing the hot chocolate spiked with Bailey’s and Peppermint Schnapps over the Blutini.  After taking a few turns at the icy miniature curling table and admiring our surroundings, we ran out of reasons to stay.

As long as we were there, we decided to head indoors to see just what the lodge was like.  The bar area was crowded and warm – no need for our heavy layers there.  Before we had time to decide to retreat, the wave of a friendly hand revealed friends in the mob, and soon the six of us were crammed around their precious table.  Combining old friends with new, we spent a pleasant evening trading stories.

So did the Ice Bar live up to my expectations?  Not really.  But the evening did.  And I have to admit that the concept is still pretty cool, and I’m glad I saw the icy artwork.  I just don’t need to go again.  I’ve already crossed it off my list.